Pecacheu

This is actually not the case! I was struggling on how to get something besides Live TV/Analog working as the other input when I'd seen in the manual it shows a screenshot of literally doing just that. Just assumed it was only on higher end OLED models and they didn't bother to take a different picture in the manual. But finally I found in a Reddit comment with like 1 upvote (and not in the damn manuals, mind you!) that you have to disable HDMI-CEC (basically CEC allows you to control some set top boxes and disk players via the buttons on your TV remote through the HDMI cable, rather than through IR blaster on the remote), either overall or just on the inputs you want to use. And boom, you can now use Multiview on multiple UHD HDMI inputs simultaneously! I'm using a 2016 and 2019 model WebOS TV and this worked on both of them. But neither of these TVs have PiP, only Multiview. I really would prefer PiP, the side-by-side 16:9 pictures just leave so much unused screen space. I've heard PiP is on some models but not others... And it does seem that they took away both PiP and Multiview on the 2021 model a friend of mine has so yeah, that sucks. You're telling me we have MORE processing power in newer TVs, and what we're doing with it all is... less features? Oh right, I forgot, that processing power is all going into the new non-removable ads on the poorly designed home screen of the new models. Guess we can add PiP to the rapidly growing list of stuff LG WebOS used to have but doesn't now. Let's see: - Bye bye PiP and Multiview. - Not having any ads in the first place -> At least there's a way to turn off ads -> No longer any option to remove ads whatsoever. - Ability to customize the wallpapers/no-signal pictures instead of ugly stock photos? Not anymore suckers, thanks for the $1k. - Cute penguin who I just wanna hug and rub his head omaigosh he so cute and he's even on the setup screen jumpin around all happy so precious and he does lil cute poses next to each setting in the settings screen aaa -> No penguin mascot, no cute lil icons, only unfeeling corporate blandness and ads. - No more customizable animated cursor for your Wiimote (I'm calling it a Wiimote, deal with it). Now you can only change the cursor size. - Live zoom (worked like Windows magnifier) gone. - Taking screenshots of current input/app is apparently gone? - Photo/video app can no longer play off network shares, and has generally way less options, like most things on the new TVs do. - Miniplayer that lets you play music (off a network share or USB device or internal storage) while any input or app is running is MIA. - Minimal, unobtrusive, colorful, and FULLY customizable WebOS home launcher that's only a bar above current input -> distracting, bloated, extremely laggy fullscreen home page full of dozens of pages of "sponsored" and "featured" BS you can't turn off, instead of just a neat list of your apps and inputs. - No more downloading apps or installing updates without signing in to an LG account. - A Chrome-based browser that is only like 2 years out of date instead of 6+ years out of date. (at least it works with most websites, but seriously... Maybe UPDATE it literally ever, LG? How hard is it to compile a new damn build of Chromium?) With new WebOS, you can have all this and more, buy now!

I did no research to determine if it is Mac compatible beforehand. When I look it up I get this massive PDF that mentions "LSI 9217-4i4e" and Mac compatibility is mentioned elsewhere... But I'm not sure if that's any conclusive evidence. To be fair, I had previously inserted a random USB 3.0 PCIe card I have laying around and that works flawlessly so I assumed that any card would. I also just tested an NVMe PCIe card that I have from another system and that also works, granted the Mac refuses to boot from it of course. So I bought a card with an LSI chipset that was on a "works with Linux" list I found somewhere and happened to be for a good price. I had no clue Apple would restrict it from working... I didn't even know they COULD do that outside of the OS level, I figured "well it runs Ubuntu now, it's a Linux PC for all intents and purposes." But no, of course not... Not with an Apple product. Upon looking for info on if the Mac Pro is only compatible with certain RAID cards the answer appears to be yes(?). If it is the case that the Mac is somehow preventing me using the RAID card on purpose, I guess that's $60 down the drain. I'd have to find some sort of overlap with a card that is both compatible with Linux and graciously allowed to be used on this machine by the Apple overlords, and that's apparently not easy to find. My only hope is to try and get the Newer MAXPower RAID (seemingly clone of Highpoint RocketRAID) card I have that IS compatible with it working in Linux somehow. Easier said than done, I tried every suggestion I could find to make it work, Linux just won't see it at all, but Mac OS and Windows can (heck, the drivers are even automatically installed).

Haha yeah I wish I had known about stuff like this back many, many years ago when I had a problem where my MacBook Pro just stopped turning on, and in order to get my files off it I wound up purchasing an entire used Mac Mini on Craigslist just to recover the files, only to later realize there were workarounds I could've used with my Windows PCs. But hey, I got my files off in the end, so all's well that ends well.

Hiya! I am trying to use an HP LSI 9217-4i4e SAS card with my Mac Pro but it isn't working. It's a 6Gb 2 port Mini SAS PCIe RAID card, with one port facing internally and the other externally. (The Mac Pro requires a SAS connection to hook up the SATA HDD bays inside... because Apple.) However when I connect the card to my Mac in any slot, it won't even POST. It just sits there on a white screen (before showing the Apple logo but after making the 'dong' sound) indefinitely. I really wish it was possible to see the BIOS messages in case there's some kind of error, but I don't think it's possible to do that on a Mac (let alone access the BIOS to change any settings). There is also a green LED on the card that blinks on and off about once per second. It's not labeled so I don't know what it's for. But the odd thing is the card works 100% just fine when connected to any other PC. (The LED pattern is the same.) It works in Windows, haven't tried setting it up in Linux yet but the PC will at least POST. I wondered if it was because the card is PCIe gen 3 and the Mac Pro (2008 model, maxed out config) is gen 2. But the internet says PCIe is forward AND reverse compatible. I can't think of anything else that's causing the problem. It shouldn't matter whether the card is compatible with Mac OS or not, I was told it's compatible with Linux and that is what I'm running. My Mac Pro has Ubuntu 22.04 installed on it (not Bootcamp, just Linux, wiped Mac OS). I do also have the original SAS card that came with the Mac preinstalled, but unfortunately, it seems to be some proprietary nonsense that's completely incompatible with Linux. Tried to get some help for this on Stack Overflow but so far unsuccessful.

After trying a number of different searches I've actually had some success searching for Oculus Quest Link Cables it seems. Here's one: https://amazon.com/dp/B085NNS16Y This cable supports USB 3.2 10Gpbs and up to 60W power delivery. Theoretically it should work perfectly. The only strange thing is that there's no mention of any of these being active cables... Perhaps USB-C works differently and this length is possible without an active cable? Or maybe any hub it's connected to would provide signal boosting. Not sure. But the reviews seem to indicate it works, and not just for the Oculus Quest either, but for various other devices like connecting a phone to a MacBook, and it syncs data at full speed. That does sound like a good sign. Btw if you didn't know, the Oculus Quest supports linking up to a PC as well as running in standalone mode... However from what I've heard the data that it sends over the cable is basically heavily compressed and travelling via only a single USB 3.0 link, not USB 3.1 w/ DisplayPort mode. Basically it's not utilizing the full potential of the USB-C connection, primarily for reverse compatibility reasons. (Basically, everyone get's a worse experience because not everyone's GPU/Desktop PC has a USB-C connector, some only have Type-A connectors.)

They do. But they also usually don't support USB PD I think. So you would have to power the headset via other means. Also searing for USB-C cables can be difficult because there are so many different kinds, and you need one with 100% full support for all features or the dock will basically refuse to work at the other end. I've tried this, for example using a USB 2.0 Type-C cable with my own hub, it straight up refuses to work at all, but using a USB 3.2 Gen 2 cable or Thunderbolt 3 cable (same thing basically), it worked fine. Thunderbolt 3 is easier to search for so I'm mainly trying that. I found a 2 meter (6.6ft) TB3 cable for $25. Though doing a mock-up with a 6.6ft charging cable I own, I've found that it's too short... Even a small room scale setup would make you tug your PC off the desk at that length, lol. So one would need to find a longer cable than that. Though hey, if your basement happens to also be a Costco warehouse, apparently this cable exists: https://bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1522225-REG

Yeah, most likely. Not sure what sorcery Accell is using to get their cable to 8ft long with that specialized VR dongle, but it may have some sort of built-in active cable in the adapter. Oh, I neglected to mention... failing the solution of supplying 12V power from the desktop/laptop's own USB-C port, one could also use a USB-C powerbank, strapping it to your waist or putting it in your pocket for example. Since USB-C powerbanks with PD support can output not just the standard 5V, but 12V as well (and some up to 20V), you could use that in combination with the PD Trigger I mentioned above, and power the headset that way rather than through the cable itself. Plus, that solution might allow you to use an optical cable of some kind, which I imagine would be even lighter. (Wait, haha that was an unintentional pun)

So this is a bit of an idea I had recently... Potentially even an idea for exploration in an LTT video! I've been thinking about how it would be possible to outfit the HTC Vive (the headset I have) with USB-C instead of the included cable. Prologue: I had an opportunity a while ago to try out one of those wireless VR gaming backpack things in a store once that turns the Vive (I think it was the Vive version if I recall) into a wireless headset, and honestly... I could feel the lag vs a cable, it's just not the same. I just don't think the tech is there yet, even as impressive as all the fancy 5G or WiGig tech is... it's still not good enough. So since I'm going to be sticking to cables for now, I was trying to think of ways to take that bulky tri-cable setup and turn it into a single USB-C cable, coming straight from the headset, that goes straight intro the PC. VirtualLink is basically the failed attempt at a standard that is the reason NVIDIA puts USB-C connectors on their GPUs. It's a cool name but technically not the same thing as USB-C, it's an alt-mode. I believe the only difference to DisplayPort alt-mode is that it provides 2 DP lanes and a USB 3.2 lane instead of 1 DP lane and a USB 3.1 lane. (Though I might be wrong on the numbers there as there's conflicting info and even Wikipedia seems a little confused tbh) Point is, there's liely barely any practical performance difference between them (5Gbps vs 10 for the USB, basically irrelevant, speed does not equal latency and only the latter matters much to VR sensors), so there's no real reason to stress out about not using purpose-built USB-C based adapters. And VirtualLink-compatible hardware is practically non-existent because it's basically a failed standard. So with that out of the way, the problem we need to solve is carrying the USB 3, HDMI, and power for the headset all through a single cable. The first two are easy enough... It's the third that gets tricky. You might recall this adapter by Accell that made the headlines a little while ago, meant for adapting an Oculus Rift to using USB-C. But it only carries USB and HDMI, no power... Fine for the Rift since it can be powered by USB, but with the Vive, that barrel plug is required! The HTC Vive is powered via it's Link Box by 12VDC at 2A... Though it will work basically fine off 1A from my own testing with a bench supply. Interestingly, it also seems to work fine at 9V 2A. Additionally, a surprising fact is that the Link Box is completely optional and unnecessary! The only requirement for using the Vive without the Link Box is that your PC has Bluetooth built-in, and that you can find a female barrel jack to sacrifice that happens to be the right size! (Btw, I've actually noticed slightly better performance without the Link Box in some cases, looks like the radios in it take up some of that precious bandwidth, lol) Anyhow, that 12V power requirement is probably good news as that's a standard voltage for USB PD! So if the GPU's output port, or the USB-C port of a gaming laptop as another example, can supply 12V via USB PD then theoretically, this should be able to work. However, I have no clue if that's the case. For example the new laptop I've got (well, purchased, but it hasn't come in yet as it's a special order) lists the max wattage of the Thunderbolt 3 ports and claims to support USB PD (though doesn't say if that's for input only or both ways), but doesn't mention supported voltages anywhere. It can supply up to 15W, which would be 5V 3A or 12V 1.25A. Of course, the next problem is what to do at the other end of the cable, the headset end. That's where a USB-C hub comes in! These are easy enough to find on the cheap, and any should do as long as it's got an HDMI port and USB 3.0. Here's one for $25 for example: https://amazon.com/dp/B07QXMNF1X I have one for example with 3 USB 3.0 ports and one 4K/60Hz HDMI. I like it because it doesn't have any of that useless bloat like a bunch of 2.0 ports and a multi-card reader. Just the essentials so it's nice and compact. That said I haven't tested to ensure that it works with my headset, but I can confirm that (besides working with a phone which is what I bought it for) it works with a desktop through the USB-C port on the GPU. You can connect a display, USB 3.0 devices, and USB 2.0 devices, all at once, without a hitch. Of course that still doesn't solve our power delivery issue... For that I think the solution might be one of these! That's a USB-C PD trigger, it simply tricks the USB-C device it's connected to into supplying the correct output voltage you want... assuming that device is capable of outputting said voltage. If we set it to 12V, then connecting it to the headset should allow a 12V supply over a single cable! The only thing to watch out for would be that the hub you're using provides a USB Type-C passthrough port compatible with USB PD (up to 100W of passthrough power). That should allow the higher voltage to pass through the cable while the lower-voltage 5V is simultaneously supplied to power the hub's own USB ports! Yup that's right, two voltages at once. It really works. Isn't USB-C freakin' amazing? And that brings us to the final problem... Err, well... where the heck to find such a long USB-C cable! That I don't know, but I'm sure you could find one if you looked hard enough. Alright so I know this is a long post but I'd love thoughts on this, not so much a question but I'm hoping to incite a discussion about um... odd VR and USB-C things.

Also I might be derailing my own thread here a bit lol. But I think my question's been answered. Not sure how much the mods here like to crack the whip and lock threads, I'm kinda new here despite having an account for a while

Well that's a particular controversy against that particular site, and one that I was not aware of, not necessarily something wrong with the general concept. Besides I'm not sure how much water the "bias towards Intel theory" holds given the literal front page of their website is boasting how excellent a value the new Ryzen 3300X is (which I sure won't disagree with, pretty awesome release IMO) Plus you're not going to be able to find reviews on a lot of more obscure parts or variants of parts that you can easily find on that site. Still if anyone has a good alternative I'd be open to trying it. I've submitted a number of benchmarks to that site and it's got a really neat feature to see how each of your system's parts line up compared to others after running the benchmark. I haven't really seen a good competitor to the site frankly, that said I haven't really looked around.

You say that, but I feel like it's the opposite... I mean I'm sure they're fairly reliable, but review sites are only a sample size of 1, plus sometimes they're testing pre-production or review units. Sometimes in the field, parts end up having different performance than they do on paper. That site is an aggregate of millions of user's benchmarks so it's a much larger sample size. Sure, you could argue that low-quality data (aka 'idiots') are inevitable when users are involved in anything, but still the data is a weighted average... And I feel like the average person's rig is going to inevitably not show the peak theoretical performance of most of it's parts, so if anything that site is more realistic to what you're likely to see hooking up 'part X' to your system assuming your rig isn't like, the $60 million Frontera supercomputer at UT. That's how I see it at least.

Yeah I think I'll probably be going with the 970 Evo Plus 500GB. I've looked around at a few more sources and videos and the performance difference is negligible, though the Pro does seem to often (not always) win just slightly. And as xdeathshot20 said, on paper the Evo Plus is actually listed as faster write speed. And looking around for good deals it can be had for around the same price as the Evo ($95-$100 new), whereas I can't find a brand new 970 Pro 512GB for below $150 and most are around Amazon's price of $170. (So yeah unless you care about that extra 12GB I suppose there's basically no reason not to go Evo Plus, lol)

I was mainly looking at an article comparing them and also this site: https://ssd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Samsung-970-Pro-NVMe-PCIe-M2-512GB-vs-Samsung-970-Evo-NVMe-PCIe-M2-500GB/m498971vsm493995 Which puts it 24% faster (to be fair that's less than what the articles said) I love that site it's great for looking at benchmarks for just about every different PC component

So basically there's really no reason for the average user to get a 970 in the first place? I would probably at least get the basic 970 Evo though if not the Pro, the price of that one isn't much off from any NVMe SSD from a reliable brand if you look around a little.

Video editing/rendering, so I figure that the SSD performance would effect stuff like scrubbing performance and delays of pulling up project files and all that. I'm in a sorta awkward position where I need a thin-and-light tablet with a stylus to be able to do digital art and photo editing work, but also the very same machine has to be powerful enough for smooth 4K video editing and rendering. Honestly, it's pretty cool that such a PC is actually possible now. My last tablet PC I've been using for design work is from ages ago in the early Windows 8 tablet era... Was pricey as hell, yet performance was such utter garbage that I had to swap files between desktop and laptop constantly to be able to get any work for a project done at a reasonable pace. Also didn't know that about the Evo and Pro. Is there also a reliability difference between the two? (Though I'm sure the Evo is perfectly reliable to begin with)

So fairly simple question... I'm getting an SSD for my laptop. It's a fairly powerful laptop, but I bought it with the lowest drive option available, intending to upgrade it myself (due to the insane premium OEMs charge on storage). Would've done the same for the RAM but alas, the OLED display is only available at the highest RAM config (the bastards, lol) I've already checked online that it takes full-length NVMe M.2 drives and all that. However my question is if the extra price of the Samsung 970 Pro SSD is really worth it, almost double the price of the 970 Evo and 970 Evo Plus. I know it does show some impressive numbers, particularly in sustained performance... Which would probably be good since I'll be doing some rendering work and whatnot in addition to gaming. But at the end of the day it would just be in a laptop (CPU is 10th gen i7-10750H btw). So would the laptop probably bottleneck the performance enough that it doesn't even make a difference if I go with any random generic brand 512GB M.2 SSD anyway? Would I basically be burning my money getting the 970 Pro? Or does it perform basically the same as in a desktop?

My fans came in last week, and oh boy are they powerful. More powerful than my ceiling fan, portable air conditioner, air filter on HI, all of my portable fans and heaters combined, and probably more powerful than the whole home AC too. They literally blow the mouse off the table from a foot away, so yeah strap everything down before use. They're not quite as loud as I thought, probably since they're 120mm fans. One at full speed is slightly quieter than a server with 4 or 5 fans (well 10, since they're doubled up) turning on, which sounds like a jet engine taking off, but I have seen louder fans that produce much less airflow, so I was expecting even louder. So, I officially dub it Blowymatron 2.0. The downside however, is that you can't PWM these fans with the motherboard because they react inversely to the PWM curve you set. At 0% they're 100%, and at 100% they're 0%, but this doesn't matter anyway since I'm just using a fan controller rather than the mobo. I'm working on designing a custom smart fan controller (for my prototype case), but that's another story...

Should be easy enough to make one yourself. I've taken apart automotive rockers and buttons before. They almost always have 3mm LEDs in them. You can find an RGB 3mm LED and put that in instead.

One problem is there's no way to know until you open up the monitor if the LCD panel is of the fused panel variety, in which case you can't use it because the layers (ex. plastic protector, TFT layer, diffuser, backlight, diffuser, backing) are permanently fused together, or even worse, created through some fancy chemical process as a coating on the LCD layer itself. Cheapo TFT LCD monitors are more likely to neatly come apart neatly, so yours may work. Also from what I've seen panels with poor contrast ratios tend to be more transparent, which is what I would assume is the most important trait if you what to turn it into a window. An easier solution if you don't care about transparency would be to cover the window in one-way mirror film, then paint black around the monitor (as Pangea2017 said). But if the monitor already fits it shouldn't be a problem. Anyway make sure to create some sort of container/insulation layer for the monitor electronics to keep them from touching anything in the case. That stuff WILL shock you, and your mobo.

No, I found a BIOS that works with 16x to dual 8x risers (they are used in servers to double the PCI slot count). Haven’t tested that yet but I have tried my single 1080 Ti with 8x vs 16x slot on another mobo to see if there is any performance loss, and I didn’t find any, so I think this might just be crazy enough to work.

I just ordered three of these: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWL2FIY They were the highest airflow I could find on Amazon, and they're 4-pin PWM-able (so the noise won't be a problem), plus somewhat affordable! I can let you know if they're any good when they arrive.

Don't know if anyone will be in the area since LTT themselves are Canada-based, but we're doing a booth at the NOVA Maker Faire on the 18th! I'll be showing off a mostly-working 3D printed prototype playing VR games, as well as a project I've been working on... A machine-learning super-computer that predicts mathematical formulas (totally unrelated lol). Anyway, I've made a few design changes to the Arctic. - Firstly, the sub-zero cooling will probably be a removable module, whereas originally it would be permanently installed and a totally separate model from the non-sub-zero version. Also, I've made some extra room in the design for slightly larger GPUs, however most third-party (non NVIDIA or AMD brand) cards probably still won't fit, but basically every OEM card with an aftermarket waterblock should. - Additionally, I've discovered I'll have to use thicker than normal front/side fans in the final version, as standard-size 10x60mm fans are too low-airflow, even with 8 of them in there. They are extremely quiet, though. - The top fan will be a regular 90mm fan. I'd like RGB for the top fan, however RGB 90mm are very difficult to find (though there are a few), so I'm planning on using clear single color fans, removing the LEDs, and either replacing them with individual RGB LEDs, or simply wrapping an RGB light strip around them. - With the slightly more efficient interior design, I've discovered that there's actually room for dual graphics cards! There's very little room however, so I'd need to design custom shrouds for the waterblocks and custom fittings, but I was gonna need some custom radiator blocks for the case anyway, so that's nothing new. The question is what to do with that extra space in the normal, single GPU models... Optical drive version anyone? Also, I don't think I mentioned in the description, but at the rear, the case has a quick-disconnect port. That's for connecting optional external cooling. The design of the port is really cool. There's a bunch of tiny levers, springs, and mechanical components inside. When the mating connector is attached, it redirects the loop through the connection, but otherwise the connector routes water straight through, bypassing it when nothings connected. The trick was designing to not leak any water while in between these two states.

Okay, I've been making the case way more complex then it was going to be before, because I've decided to launch a KickStarter! So I got together a small team, we prototyped some water-cooling loops, I did some thermal tests (I have a bit of a home laboratory setup with some scientific measurement stuff), prototyped some PCBs, and we made some 3D renders! Seriously, they're really cool. The cases will come in both black and white, and they're even going to be available as pre-built VR-ready systems starting at under $900! More info here:

The main reason for it is because AC-DC circuitry tends to work at maximum efficiency at about 50% load (actually, I think there was an LTT episode about that), so if your system draws ~450W and the cooling draws ~100W, you're into the high-efficiency region. Also, at max power the A/C could draw as much as 700W peak on the 12V line alone, so 1200W is defiantly necessary. The PSU can also auto-detect if only one of the power bricks is connected and current-limit the cooling. (Or, at least it will. The current prototype PSU doesn't have that capability. You can't simply use a diode because it would have to dissipate the full 600W at load. We're thinking a current-sensing shunt resistor coupled with a comparator.)

Introducing the B-Tech Arctic computer case! At only 5.2 liters of internal volume, it's one of the smallest ITX cases with full-length GPU support on the market! (That's right, smaller than the RVZ03 or even the Sentry case!) The Arctic case achieves a stunningly accurate "console aesthetic" look thanks to it's glossy plastic exterior construction, ample vent holes, and clean, screw-free external design, including on the back and bottom! But just because your computer looks like a console doesn't mean it should perform like one! That's why Arctic supports full-length GPUs and comes standard with built-in liquid cooling! It even includes a built-in 1500W DC power supply (2x compact 750W AC bricks), with future battery-pack expansion planned! But it doesn't end there. The Artic isn't called "Arctic" for nothing. It's got built-in sub-zero cooling capable of handling over 550W of total system heat dissipation! That means your system could be cooled down to 0° C FREEZING even at LOAD! And if you don't want the extra power consumption and noise, you can simply swap the Arctic A/C Block in the loop out for the regular Radiator Block, thanks to our custom designed quick-swap fittings that allow detaching parts of the cooling loop without draining! Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! But of course, you need photos! Here are some 3D renders. These are NOT proof of concept renders. They are taken using the real model, not a striped-down version missing internal structure or interconnects. The Arctic Case in Glacier White. The top intake is a custom designed ~100mm RGB 4-pin fan. The final design will also have a backlit logo on top. The case can be opened quickly and easily thanks to the innovative magnetic-latch system, which sends power and data for the LED illumination through magnetized contacts, making the case side-panels totally wire-free. Arctic Case in Cobalt Black: From the side, you can see the 360° addressable RGB LED ring. A non-slip rubber pad with an intricate pattern lines the bottom of the case to give it a two-tone look. From the front you can see 3 of the 8 individually controllable 4-pin exhaust fans. A/C units connected to the watercooling loop with a custom copper heatsink block are positioned behind these to achieve CPU/GPU temps BELOW ambient! And did I mention there's a flipping TURBO BUTTON!? You'll also notice there's no power button. That's because it's capacitive! To turn the system on, simply tap the left-front area of the case. Of course, you're probably also wondering how on earth we're controlling 10 independent 4-pin fans (including the pump) and over 70 zones of RGB lighting... Well, existing 4-pin fan splitters are not able to control fan speed independently or even report individual fan speed, leaving you with no way to ensure your fans/pumps are still working properly, not to mention they're way to big to fit in a case this small, so we decided to come up with our own solution. Introducing the Arctic Control Board! Able to control 12 independent 4, or even 3-pin fans with per-fan auto-config and per-fan RPM control. Plus, it has RGB lighting control, capacitive touch circuitry, A/C cooling control, case-open detect, and even front-panel IO! Front IO: 1x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0 2x Reassignable HD Audio Jacks RGB Illuminated Capacitive Power Button w/ Adjustable Sensitivity User-Configurable Turbo Button (Mechanical MX Blue-like Switch, because why not) What's Included with the Case: The case. Obviously. Custom 1500W PSU (98.5% DC-side efficiency, not cheap!) w/ Dual (also custom) 750W AC Power Bricks. Pre-assembled copper CPU & GPU water loop. Universal CPU waterblock. Dual thermoelectric A/C radiator units. 8x 60mm side fans, 1x slim ~100mm RGB intake fan. 64 pixel 360° addressable LED ring. Dual-channel smart RGB controller & 12-channel 3/4-pin PWM driver with per-fan RPM feedback. And, if you don't want to build a system yourself, pre-built configurations featuring delided 7th-gen Intel i7 CPUs, ASRock Z270 Motherboards, NVMe SSD Storage, and watercooled NVIDIA 1060, 1070 Ti, or 1080 Ti GPUs will also be available, starting at only $920! We already designed and tested PCBs, prototyped proof-of-concepts, and part-fit tested with cardboard, foamboard, etc. But we're not there yet! Here's what still needs to happen: Plastic case prototype, More part-fit testing. Refining pressure-fit and screw hole sizes based on material properties. Kickstarter video! Building an epic system in the thing! Once we've done all that, we can launch the campaign to gather funds for entering production! Current estimated launch date: Mid-February, 2018. Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! B-Tech Arctic. Compact Liquid-Cooling for the Masses!