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About Pecacheu

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Steam

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Programming, Electronics, Custom Design Stuff!
  • Occupation
    Working at a Maker-Space


  • CPU
    Intel i7 7700K, Liquid Cooled
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming
  • RAM
    32GB 3200MHz TridentZ RGB (OC RAM is pointless, but hey)
  • GPU
    Founder's GTX 1080 Ti, Liquid Cooled
  • Case
    Y'already know :-)
  • Storage
    512GB Samsung 960 Pro SSD, 1TB Seagate FireCuda SSHD
  • PSU
    750W Semi-Modular EVGA, for now...
  • Display(s)
    2x DELL 27" 1080p, 1x AOC 29" UltraWide
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop Liquid Cooled
  • Keyboard
    Faux-Mechanical Garbage, Filled with Hot-Air and LIES!
  • Mouse
    Hey! It's a Mouse. It has buttons! And a wheel! O.o
  • Sound
    5.1 Surround, but it's not very good though it's a cheap one.
  • Operating System
    Windows 10, Ubuntu, Mac OS, you name it!
  1. Best static pressure 120mm fan?

    My fans came in last week, and oh boy are they powerful. More powerful than my ceiling fan, portable air conditioner, air filter on HI, all of my portable fans and heaters combined, and probably more powerful than the whole home AC too. They literally blow the mouse off the table from a foot away, so yeah strap everything down before use. They're not quite as loud as I thought, probably since they're 120mm fans. One at full speed is slightly quieter than a server with 4 or 5 fans (well 10, since they're doubled up) turning on, which sounds like a jet engine taking off, but I have seen louder fans that produce much less airflow, so I was expecting even louder. So, I officially dub it Blowymatron 2.0. The downside however, is that you can't PWM these fans with the motherboard because they react inversely to the PWM curve you set. At 0% they're 100%, and at 100% they're 0%, but this doesn't matter anyway since I'm just using a fan controller rather than the mobo. I'm working on designing a custom smart fan controller (for my prototype case), but that's another story...
  2. RGB Dot Anti-Vandal Switch?

    Should be easy enough to make one yourself. I've taken apart automotive rockers and buttons before. They almost always have 3mm LEDs in them. You can find an RGB 3mm LED and put that in instead.
  3. One problem is there's no way to know until you open up the monitor if the LCD panel is of the fused panel variety, in which case you can't use it because the layers (ex. plastic protector, TFT layer, diffuser, backlight, diffuser, backing) are permanently fused together, or even worse, created through some fancy chemical process as a coating on the LCD layer itself. Cheapo TFT LCD monitors are more likely to neatly come apart neatly, so yours may work. Also from what I've seen panels with poor contrast ratios tend to be more transparent, which is what I would assume is the most important trait if you what to turn it into a window. An easier solution if you don't care about transparency would be to cover the window in one-way mirror film, then paint black around the monitor (as Pangea2017 said). But if the monitor already fits it shouldn't be a problem. Anyway make sure to create some sort of container/insulation layer for the monitor electronics to keep them from touching anything in the case. That stuff WILL shock you, and your mobo.
  4. No, I found a BIOS that works with 16x to dual 8x risers (they are used in servers to double the PCI slot count). Haven’t tested that yet but I have tried my single 1080 Ti with 8x vs 16x slot on another mobo to see if there is any performance loss, and I didn’t find any, so I think this might just be crazy enough to work.
  5. Best static pressure 120mm fan?

    I just ordered three of these: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWL2FIY They were the highest airflow I could find on Amazon, and they're 4-pin PWM-able (so the noise won't be a problem), plus somewhat affordable! I can let you know if they're any good when they arrive.
  6. Don't know if anyone will be in the area since LTT themselves are Canada-based, but we're doing a booth at the NOVA Maker Faire on the 18th! I'll be showing off a mostly-working 3D printed prototype playing VR games, as well as a project I've been working on... A machine-learning super-computer that predicts mathematical formulas (totally unrelated lol). Anyway, I've made a few design changes to the Arctic. - Firstly, the sub-zero cooling will probably be a removable module, whereas originally it would be permanently installed and a totally separate model from the non-sub-zero version. Also, I've made some extra room in the design for slightly larger GPUs, however most third-party (non NVIDIA or AMD brand) cards probably still won't fit, but basically every OEM card with an aftermarket waterblock should. - Additionally, I've discovered I'll have to use thicker than normal front/side fans in the final version, as standard-size 10x60mm fans are too low-airflow, even with 8 of them in there. They are extremely quiet, though. - The top fan will be a regular 90mm fan. I'd like RGB for the top fan, however RGB 90mm are very difficult to find (though there are a few), so I'm planning on using clear single color fans, removing the LEDs, and either replacing them with individual RGB LEDs, or simply wrapping an RGB light strip around them. - With the slightly more efficient interior design, I've discovered that there's actually room for dual graphics cards! There's very little room however, so I'd need to design custom shrouds for the waterblocks and custom fittings, but I was gonna need some custom radiator blocks for the case anyway, so that's nothing new. The question is what to do with that extra space in the normal, single GPU models... Optical drive version anyone? Also, I don't think I mentioned in the description, but at the rear, the case has a quick-disconnect port. That's for connecting optional external cooling. The design of the port is really cool. There's a bunch of tiny levers, springs, and mechanical components inside. When the mating connector is attached, it redirects the loop through the connection, but otherwise the connector routes water straight through, bypassing it when nothings connected. The trick was designing to not leak any water while in between these two states.
  7. Okay, I've been making the case way more complex then it was going to be before, because I've decided to launch a KickStarter! So I got together a small team, we prototyped some water-cooling loops, I did some thermal tests (I have a bit of a home laboratory setup with some scientific measurement stuff), prototyped some PCBs, and we made some 3D renders! Seriously, they're really cool. The cases will come in both black and white, and they're even going to be available as pre-built VR-ready systems starting at under $900! More info here:
  8. The main reason for it is because AC-DC circuitry tends to work at maximum efficiency at about 50% load (actually, I think there was an LTT episode about that), so if your system draws ~450W and the cooling draws ~100W, you're into the high-efficiency region. Also, at max power the A/C could draw as much as 700W peak on the 12V line alone, so 1200W is defiantly necessary. The PSU can also auto-detect if only one of the power bricks is connected and current-limit the cooling. (Or, at least it will. The current prototype PSU doesn't have that capability. You can't simply use a diode because it would have to dissipate the full 600W at load. We're thinking a current-sensing shunt resistor coupled with a comparator.)
  9. Introducing the B-Tech Arctic computer case! At only 5.2 liters of internal volume, it's one of the smallest ITX cases with full-length GPU support on the market! (That's right, smaller than the RVZ03 or even the Sentry case!) The Arctic case achieves a stunningly accurate "console aesthetic" look thanks to it's glossy plastic exterior construction, ample vent holes, and clean, screw-free external design, including on the back and bottom! But just because your computer looks like a console doesn't mean it should perform like one! That's why Arctic supports full-length GPUs and comes standard with built-in liquid cooling! It even includes a built-in 1500W DC power supply (2x compact 750W AC bricks), with future battery-pack expansion planned! But it doesn't end there. The Artic isn't called "Arctic" for nothing. It's got built-in sub-zero cooling capable of handling over 550W of total system heat dissipation! That means your system could be cooled down to 0° C FREEZING even at LOAD! And if you don't want the extra power consumption and noise, you can simply swap the Arctic A/C Block in the loop out for the regular Radiator Block, thanks to our custom designed quick-swap fittings that allow detaching parts of the cooling loop without draining! Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! But of course, you need photos! Here are some 3D renders. These are NOT proof of concept renders. They are taken using the real model, not a striped-down version missing internal structure or interconnects. The Arctic Case in Glacier White. The top intake is a custom designed ~100mm RGB 4-pin fan. The final design will also have a backlit logo on top. The case can be opened quickly and easily thanks to the innovative magnetic-latch system, which sends power and data for the LED illumination through magnetized contacts, making the case side-panels totally wire-free. Arctic Case in Cobalt Black: From the side, you can see the 360° addressable RGB LED ring. A non-slip rubber pad with an intricate pattern lines the bottom of the case to give it a two-tone look. From the front you can see 3 of the 8 individually controllable 4-pin exhaust fans. A/C units connected to the watercooling loop with a custom copper heatsink block are positioned behind these to achieve CPU/GPU temps BELOW ambient! And did I mention there's a flipping TURBO BUTTON!? You'll also notice there's no power button. That's because it's capacitive! To turn the system on, simply tap the left-front area of the case. Of course, you're probably also wondering how on earth we're controlling 10 independent 4-pin fans (including the pump) and over 70 zones of RGB lighting... Well, existing 4-pin fan splitters are not able to control fan speed independently or even report individual fan speed, leaving you with no way to ensure your fans/pumps are still working properly, not to mention they're way to big to fit in a case this small, so we decided to come up with our own solution. Introducing the Arctic Control Board! Able to control 12 independent 4, or even 3-pin fans with per-fan auto-config and per-fan RPM control. Plus, it has RGB lighting control, capacitive touch circuitry, A/C cooling control, case-open detect, and even front-panel IO! Front IO: 1x USB 2.0, 2x USB 3.0 2x Reassignable HD Audio Jacks RGB Illuminated Capacitive Power Button w/ Adjustable Sensitivity User-Configurable Turbo Button (Mechanical MX Blue-like Switch, because why not) What's Included with the Case: The case. Obviously. Custom 1500W PSU (98.5% DC-side efficiency, not cheap!) w/ Dual (also custom) 750W AC Power Bricks. Pre-assembled copper CPU & GPU water loop. Universal CPU waterblock. Dual thermoelectric A/C radiator units. 8x 60mm side fans, 1x slim ~100mm RGB intake fan. 64 pixel 360° addressable LED ring. Dual-channel smart RGB controller & 12-channel 3/4-pin PWM driver with per-fan RPM feedback. And, if you don't want to build a system yourself, pre-built configurations featuring delided 7th-gen Intel i7 CPUs, ASRock Z270 Motherboards, NVMe SSD Storage, and watercooled NVIDIA 1060, 1070 Ti, or 1080 Ti GPUs will also be available, starting at only $920! We already designed and tested PCBs, prototyped proof-of-concepts, and part-fit tested with cardboard, foamboard, etc. But we're not there yet! Here's what still needs to happen: Plastic case prototype, More part-fit testing. Refining pressure-fit and screw hole sizes based on material properties. Kickstarter video! Building an epic system in the thing! Once we've done all that, we can launch the campaign to gather funds for entering production! Current estimated launch date: Mid-February, 2018. Sign up for the mailing list here! For progress updates and to be notified when our Kickstarter Campaign goes live! B-Tech Arctic. Compact Liquid-Cooling for the Masses!
  10. 16GB or 32 GB RAM?

    I believe the usual advice is fast 16GB kit for gaming (with the exception of 4K), and as much as you can buy, even if it's slow, for photo/video/audio editing. (Wow, people respond fast on this forum!)
  11. Oh, I also thought of the idea of manufacturing some kind of quick-disconnect access to the cooling loop on the side of the case, so that way the peltier stuff could be in it's own separate box, and when it's disconnected it only has a small internal radiator with no peltier. It would of course need an internal solenoid that can be activated when not connected, so that the loop is still completed. I'm not sure if this is a good idea, but I'll try modeling it. I guess it's sort of inspired by the LTT video where they use copper tubes to connect the cooling loop of all of the PCs in the office to a massive outdoor radiator. Oh, plus since the non-K CPU I'll have to get will come with a stock heatsink, do you think sticking that on top of the waterblock would help cooling at all? Or are waterblocks cool to the touch on top anyway?
  12. I modeled some Corsair AIOs, and I should be able to fit an H60 pretty well, but only 1. The dual fan model is just too big. I just don't see how something with a smaller radiator and a weaker pump is supposed to outperform this ebay stuff, regardless of how "name-brand" it is. I don't think leakage will be an issue, I've got plenty exotic clamps and fasteners. And of course I'll put it together and test it before installing into the PC. I also found some fairly inexpensive pumps with better flow rates than the one I picked, although I remember seeing an LTT video that said flow rate isn't very important. I could also mount the peltier and a heatsink directly to the CPU, but I've heard that is very bad for the CPU and can damage it.
  13. Should I buy an AIO and modify it with a GPU waterblock then? Would it work better if I wrap the PVC in insulation tape? Also, the reason for using such a small radiator is the massively limited space inside. At 92mm, it will also fit vertically if there's not enough room to mount it horizontally. I figured since I'm getting 2 of them it should be good enough. Anyway, I'm going to get to work on the case a bit more thoroughly in SketchUp, because currently I've only tested part fit in 2D using Illustrator.
  14. Damn, no Mini-ITX DDR4 motherboards support overclocking, at least out of what I can find on amazon. I could try a pc parts site though. As for the multiple metals thing, should I switch out to a copper radiator, or aluminum waterblocks?
  15. EDIT: Long story short, this post isn't really relevant anymore. The orignal project I was panning here has evolved into this: IDK, here was my original planned build because why not... Base Parts List: $300 - Intel i7-7700K -- http://amazon.com/dp/B01MXSI216 $60 - ASRock H110M-ITX/AC -- http://amazon.com/dp/B01AVPBOFI $125 - G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 16GB (Because why not?) $50 - Logitech G410 Atlas RGB Keyboard (Tenkeyless, to match the "compact" theme of the build!) $40 - RGB 120mm Fans, 3 Pack (These sure are cheap. Too cheap?) -- http://amazon.com/dp/B0748C844 $650 - GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition Used