TukangUsapEmenq

Current specs as below. Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 3.2 GHz 4C/4T CPU ASRock B75M Motherboard MSI GeForce GTX 1650 Gaming X 4G Hynix 2x8 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3 SATA SSD 1 TB Seagate 2.5" HDD be quiet! System Power 9 500 W PSU Cooler Master T20 CPU Cooler Yes, obviously that Xeon bottlenecks the whole system while I'm gaming, even only got 76-80% max usage while I game. My plan (later on) is to get a newer generation of CPU that at least can handle the GPU without bottleneck, and as I will get the CPU secondhand anyway (well, why bother to get a new one when CPU would be one of the most robust thing in PC anyway), even some (more recent) old school like Skylake if it can handle it like charm. I don't know which gen that I should look onto tbh, and perhaps I'll prefer it would be the cheapest one that can do the job fine (well, perhaps maximum at $100 for CPU only), could be Intel or AMD (must be a Ryzen though), 4 cores (with/without HT/SMT are depends if that actually affect my gaming significantly). My use case wouldn't be far than casual gaming and perhaps some video editing, and 3D modelling. EDIT. The upgrade could be either changing the motherboard or, if really possible, not. I'm simply just looking for the cheapest alternative as long as the GPU won't be bottlenecking. Welp, poison me of which gen/specific CPU that I can take. Thanks in advance.

Check all of the things on your motherboard perhaps? Including the RAM and CPU, power cable ports, like everything, try to remove and reinstall them all. Seems lots of your components move too much because those components supposed to be not moving at all. Linus made a video about it either. And even so I did such length for keeping my components safe and arrive in one piece like so. https://linustechtips.com/profile/505843-tukangusapemenq/content/?type=statusupdates_status&change_section=1

Additional answers, both of what above is true. And this is actually the 'budget' way of video editing without using discrete graphics tbh. Be wary to not use any old-school Xeon-based (like Ivy Bridge on mine) CPUs though if you plan to use for editing and render much using QSV. QSV simply won't work, even it's available on Intel's ARK web, I don't know why but I tried months to solve it, and nyeh let it be. In laptops, instead of using the discrete GPU that will actually kill the battery faster, iGPU is used instead while you're using it 'normally': browsing, or else. Discrete GPU would simply be used when it's asked to, for example while you're gaming. Integrated graphics nowadays are actually got heck of some performance improvements nowadays (but don't expect it would perform as the dedicated ones), proved by loads of handheld PCs like Steam Deck or else are using Radeon Vega. Yes, it won't game much on higher resolution like 1080p or even more, but as for budget reasons it's actually some reasonable way to use the PC and do some little gaming without discrete graphics. I personally did this to my PC while GPUs are crazy expensive (Intel HD P4000 on my Xeon E3-1225 v2), and I run it only on 1366x768 anyway and it could still get 60 fps in Dota 2 (drops to 20 when in huge wars though), and yes, it won't be pretty but at least I could make myself refreshed enough than nothing.

The best solution that I could give you is simply not to touch it anymore (yes, seriously, don't even try anything anymore unless you want to risk the data inside it) and let the data recovery professionals handle it. Yes, these data recovery could be expensive, but that's the risk of not investing more as a precaution unfortunately. As for what data recovery services, here's an old LTT video covering his data recovery by https://www.werecoverdata.com. I don't know how much it is and don't expect it would be cheap. Others may have better recommendations though, as myself never experienced with those services.

I owned an original PS3 controller that I always use to game, and my PC is using a wireless adapter that I took from my old laptop (Atheros QCA9377), bought the M.2 to PCIe + antennas (https://www.tokopedia.com/autoid/m-2-ngff-to-pci-e-converter-wifi-adapter-m2-ngff-pcie-tipe-2). Unfortunately, it runs like sh--: Obviously, can't catch any 5 GHz signal as both of those are 2.4 GHz antennas I guess. Won't consider this a problem as I use a router with WISP mode + connected to it with ethernet anyway. I have to use my controller so close to the PC, it works fine until you shift few centimeters onto different position, or move farther away than less a meter. That difference could made Arthur Morgan crashed onto a tree again and kill his $1000 horse. Yes, it exactly happened like so while I played RDR2 and the controller 'hangs' or simply disconnect. This is really frustrating while I need to enjoy the game. Well, my best and simplest solution would be getting another Bluetooth dongle that's supported by this: https://vigem.org/projects/BthPS3/. I'm onto TP-Link's UB400 (UB500 simply doesn't exists here), or Orico's BTA-508. I could try with some way cheaper Bluetooth dongle but... I simply don't wanna waste money on cheap products that made things worse. (yes, a cousin of mine felt that from those cheap dongle and ended up using wired controller lol) Yet. Because this wireless adapter that I own currently actually one heck of a performer and I don't really want to waste it, I'm thinking of getting an external antenna/simply extend the cable for it, with cable long enough to be placed on my table. But I don't know what kind of antenna, or what type of extension cable that I should get. Welp... Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

A little update for this thread. Removed those solid PCI slots, replaced those with the one with enough holes for at least improve the heat exhaust. I actually moved the filter away from the fans as to let the PC got more airflow. It doesn't do much to temps as the fans indeed sucks to give the airflow either though, but it's 1 degree improvement for the CPU I think. Two 80 mm fans in front of the case, just below the 120 mm fans. The airflow's good enough now for the GPU intake. And one 80 mm fan exhausting on the last image I circled. Funny thing, I previously put it just below the GPU (below the circle) and it just simply exhausting the cold air again lol, so I moved it to the top of the GPU (as hot air moves to the topside of it's room right?) and it's decently exhausting the heat now. I can't even hear any of the fans spinning at all (except for the GPU fan when it's reaching too high of the temp, as like 80 and above, but in those 2 days I game RDR2 in decently long session, it actually never happened for even once). I even tested Furmark only for few minutes, with GPU fan at 100%, maximum temps perhaps on 75-76-ish, but it never reach that number while I game (max on 70 I guess and the GPU fans barely spinning anyway). Welp, problem solved then. Thanks for you guys to at least giving me those points and how'd it can be solved.

Welp, I'm using this mobo that I bought secondhand https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B75m/ (and I thought it's better than the 'random' Chinese brand, brand new H61 mobos). I don't think the CPU fan that I use (tower style one) would've directly cool the VRMs as the air didn't blow directly onto the VRMs as like Intel's OEM cooler. Is it fine? As my 120 mm intake fans actually don't have good enough airflow onto the VRMs.

In a nutshell, the game I played nowadays (Red Dead Redemption 2, Ready or Not, etc.) simply made my CPU always running on 100% (the system got CPU bottlenecked) while in game and it's turboing on 3.4 to 3.5-ish (max. turbo on 3.6), specs as below in the signature. The temp runs between 60-65 all the time while gaming and actually never went more than 65. I usually play after 8A-5P work, and longest time so far I played is like 3-6 hours per-day, even worse on weekends that I could pass 8 hours. Welp.. Long-term wise, is it fine for the CPU? And yes, I planned to upgrade the ancient platform that I have currently, but unfortunately won't happen that fast. The game runs fine on my standard actually and I enjoy playing it.

As above, and the fact you're using a 2400 MHz stick either. Your i3-10100 and your motherboard supports 2666 MHz, could say getting 2x8 GB 2666 MHz stick would be the best option. Either, did you check the temps of your CPU/GPU either? There's a huge chance you have such abysmal performance simply because your hardware went throttling.

It's fine and it'll works, as the fan itself doesn't support PWM apparently.

It really depends of your hardware. Both MB and CPU are necessary to plug onto the motherboard. Please provide us the complete specs as to make all of us easier to answer your question.

@thrasher_565@ThousandBlade Welp, for the amusement for all of us, attached below. FYI, it's a really old random case from 2005 that I had laying around (yet they build nicely than cheap new cases nowadays), hence why the config is like so. What I plan so far: - 8 cm / 9.2 cm fan on the side panel as an exhaust. Could've using the 8 cm slot, or I simply mod the case a bit so I can zip tie on the side. Thanks @thrasher_565to actually pointing about that 'trapped heat'. - Two 8 cm fans in front as intake (and as you can see, not even much clearance for any bigger fan than 8 cm), as I don't even feel any airflow at all on the bottom side of the case. - Removing all those solid PCI-e slots, changing them with the one with holes (3D printed, or some kind of meshed filter material) to at least improve the exhaust airflow. - Moving both my HDD and SSD position a little bit on the upper side, as to reduce airflow restriction for the GPU's two 8 cm fans. What do you guys think? Any input is appreciated here. Welp, let's see on my case later on. I'd do the same if the filter doesn't worth by that much. welp here it is.pdf

Good point actually, didn't think about this either if I thought about it more. Perhaps I would do some photo session for better reference later on then.

It's just I'm afraid that my GPU would've starved for fresh air, that's all. From the hardware side on the CPU/GPU actually there's no problem if I see it (hence I don't wanna do those mods), but for inside the case, I thought it needs more airflow. I would mod it if it's necessary enough, but I agree with you about this one. And yesterday I just tried game + stream for like long enough hours (beforehand I don't have the time), with my CPU constantly on 100% and GPU maxed on 70-80%-ish I guess. Welp, CPU never went to 70 yet the GPU went up until 80 degrees max and I have to open the side panel and... Oof, instant heat wave. Perhaps I'm definitely getting the fans then.

Nope. Way too risky for me who didn't game much lately anyway... Although I could remove the dust filters, but I'm more into the convenience of not cleaning my PC by that occasionally as my room's dusty af. No space on my place, and way too risky when spilling things. Plus, I got a cat that sometimes just simply jump without thinking. I already did yesterday, 40-50 idling and to 34, and 70-80 in few cases max, to 57-60ish I guess max. Didn't change the memory thermal pads as they're still good enough (and won't be necessary either). Noctua's NT-H1 that I have laying around btw, could use my Kyronaut Extreme but I thought it's totally unnecessary. It actually fits and I can simply tie some fans on it, could easily disassemble it either, but I don't really want to do it as I guess it won't make much of difference anyway lol

Didn't explicitly performing that bad, but I thought I feel it doesn't feel enough yet as I barely feel any air on it. Yet surprisingly both temps are good because both CPU and GPU are kind-of bottlenecked (lol), and perhaps I kind-of having an overkill CPU cooler (I never saw my CPU went above 67 at all, even if it's on a stress test) lol It's actually a 77W (consider it's on 69W when using only the CPU) chip + my 1650 (no Ti, no Super, only with 6 PCIe power) are actually never being used more than 70% as my CPU bottlenecks it hard. I won't even OC it as there's no point of OC-ing if the CPU can't handle it anyway, I actually plan to under-clock it as to at least reduce my power usage. It'd be dead the second it touches 17V though lol It's more like on the preventive side for the GPU though, I hate to leave my GPU being suffocated while I do long game hours on the PC. Those spots are specifically for 8 cm fans, and it's the original mount for the fans. I actually DIY-ed the two 12 cm fan slots above it using an straighten PVC pipe as it's a really ancient office case, previously it's some CD drive slots on there and previously only have those two 8 cm fans lol I would love to and it's actually my first plan but.... Considering the current fans are actually still quiet enough (and it's not even audible) for me and the fact PWM fans are indeed more expensive, I kind-of scrapped the plan.

I recently got a new (secondhand) GPU and this is my current cooling setup on my setup, plus few places for where I can put fans on. Fyi, this is an old ATX case that my pops bought on 2005, so my the PSU indeed sucks some warm air, unfortunately. Specs as on my signature. Yesterday I did game a little on it, and it performs as expected (and I already expected the CPU bottleneck that runs 100% near all the time and the fact the GPU will never touch 100% usage either). Both CPU and GPU are still on really good temps (I changed the GPU thermal paste yesterday) that I actually never seen it on 60 or above. Welp, problem is, I played just for 30 mins to an hour (so I don't know yet how's the equilibrium at), and my existing 12 cm fan aren't exactly a good airflow performer (some quiet and slow random fans with blue LED, like so https://www.tokopedia.com/kutualay/fan-zalman-12cm-transparan-led-blue-120mm-kipas-casing-komputer-cpu-pc-3-pin-mobo-tanpa-baut ), and I'm using magnetic dust filter just to reduce the gap between that-I-have-to-clean the PC, and by the positioning of the 12 cm fans I could say the GPU would've some hard time to get fresh air either. The 8 cm fan behind as the exhaust is Deepcool XFAN 80, which surprisingly got a good airflow and being quiet af on my standard. I planned to get 2x 8 cm fans for the below, both with intake filters either, same fans as my exhaust. Perhaps the top fan either but I really don't see the usefulness of the top fan rather than to disturb the airflow tbh. And yet, should I change my 12 cm fans for better ones? I prefer the one with LED for the 12 cm front fans as I use the LEDs for my acrylic lightning, yet not being that fancy and expensive. Also FYI, I actually have 4-pin splitter that's connected to my motherboard for my 12 cm fans. PWM doesn't work on my current fan though. Thanks in advance.

Well, this video summarize all of the questions.

I definitely did a fresh coat of NT-H1 obviously after that card being tortured for a year (I guess lol). And just realized it's actually the same concept as this anyway lol

All noted and perhaps will be tried when I actually need to. I just went YOLO (because I urgently need to use the PC) and the temps are actually good still while I tried some gaming. Though, just wondering in long-term, will it affect that much?

Welp, just got my secondhand graphics card here from a friend. Tested it, works fine, temp tends to spike a lot (as expected as I knew the guy would never actually maintain his gear as neat as myself). It kind of touched 70-80 degrees in Dota 2 while I kind of 'stressed' it. Surprisingly the GPU wasn't that dirty (considering how dusty my place is) from the outside (aside from those few dusts laying around). And I opened it, oh boy would you look at the spoiler below. Yes, I already tried cleaning it using cotton buds + tissue + 70% alcohol (that I have laying around). Keep few drops of alcohol on it but it simply doesn't work much and I'm afraid of scratching it. Is there any way to remove it or.... Could I jus simply let it, and repaste using the NT-H1 or even the Kyronaut Extreme it and call it a day? Thanks in advance.

I planned on Coffee Lake/Zen 2/more recent builds tbh, even perhaps an Alder Lake i3, as I know Skylake would be 'enough' for now, but in the next few years it'd be obsolete again anyway. But it depends if I actually need the upgrade or not, as I don't game and use the PC as much anyway. 10 GB is the record of my usage with sh--load amount of Chrome tabs, Matlab, Word, Excel, Premiere, Photoshop, and another else, all opened. Usually it won't even touch 8 GB in total either (in fact it's on 5.2 GB right now). I don't know with the case if I run RDR2/GTA 5/more recent games though (it's a problem for future me), and I'll definitely feel it (it'd shutter like dafuq it would be unplayable, right?) when I don't have enough RAM either. Perhaps the clarity that I'm looking for. Tagged as the answer.

In a nutshell, I just got a heck of a deal of a GTX 1650 (MSI Gaming X 4G) from a friend and the thing's still on the way with courier. Obviously, I would (finally) game a bit more after months of using my PC with iGPU. Yes, I do well aware it will bottleneck because of the CPU, but that's what I could have now and I do plan an upgrade later on, and I'll play at 1366x768 anyway. Welp, current specs as below. Intel Xeon E3-1225 v2 3.2 GHz 4C/4T CPU ASRock B75M Motherboard Hynix 8 GB + Team Group 4 GB DDR3 1600 MHz RAM 480 GB Pioneer APS-SL3 SATA SSD // 1 TB Seagate 2.5" HDD be quiet! System Power 9 500W PSU Cooler Master T20 CPU Cooler The problem now lies on the memory (as I highlighted above). I do have 12 GB right now as before when I worked on my capstone design project, I'm in a tight budget and I need more RAM (I could reach 10 GB usage easily lol because lots of browser tabs and apps), plus one of my Team 4GB module turns out to be defective, so I sold it and replaced it with the Hynix 8 GB one. Yes, I'm well aware either that this would affect performance in lots of things as I installed different size of RAM, in fact when I game using the iGPU on Dota 2 it kind of shutters. But in gaming, especially after I got a decent card, how much it would affect the game? I asked this because, I know my PC hardware is kind-of ancient, Ivy Bridge or such, and I planned to get some more recent hardware later on the next few months or a year later. If I could save some money by not getting another RAM for this PC (if it wouldn't affect that much), I could save it for the next upgrade and getting 16 GB DDR4 instead. Thanks in advance.

I'm using Vivaldi as my main browser and I frequently use their panel feature as spoiler below to open WhatsApp (since I just simply press the binded F1 to open WhatsApp, what a lifesaver actually in multitasking). Problem is, nowadays I don't know why it feels so sluggish that it really irritates me to use it. But when I open it on a normal tab, it just runs flawlessly. Tried erasing cache and things, it works for a while but the next time I use it again, it just went back. Do you guys got any workaround of this as I actually use this productively when working from home? Thanks in advance.

Well, we'll put aside most of the components except for the storages and power supply. They seems still decently good for another life though. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dqNCbK