Morgoth97

Greetings, I recently acquired a 5900x out of sheer luck and paired it with a refurbished X570 MSI prestige creator. My ram sticks are: memory: 4x 8 GB Samsung B-die Model number: CMR32GX4M4C3466C16 version 4.31 XMP profile: Frequency:3466 MHz Primary timings: 16-18-18-36 Voltage: 1.35v My x299 OC profile was: Frequency: 4000 MHz Primary timings: 16-16-16-34 Voltage: 1.45 v My x570 OC profile is: frequency: 3666 MHz Primary timings: 16-16-16-34 voltage: 1.5v I was unable to boot my system with a memory frequency higher than 3666 MHz even with loose timing such as 18-22-22-38 and turning gear down mode on; also my SoC has a voltage of 1.1v applied. My inquiry is how come my memory modules won’t clock any higher on Ryzen? I’ve already confirmed that the infinity fabric can OC to 1900 MHz. I’m trying to figure out if it’s the ram modules or my motherboard (perhaps likely because it’s refurbished) or just bad IMC on my CPU because I’m considering buying another set of better binned ram and repurposing by old set of ram for a friend’s build (I’ve already given him my x299 parts but he’s yet to acquire ram).

Hi, I'm writing this thread to inquire if anyone has a solution to permanently turn off "Enhance pointer precision" setting that can be found in the advanced mouse settings on Windows 10. I find that every time I shutdown and open my computer, the setting turns back on! I'm not sure if this is normal behavior, perhaps it's a problematic program or something.

Did you try running everything on default setting in the BIOS (no over clicking)?

But it’ll be obvious that there was a spill (on the SN sticker)

Could you have possibly be more vague? Please provide more information: What exactly is your problem? What motherboard are you running? Was it working before? Are you running the RAM at its XMP profile? What is the model number of your ram? It’ll look something like this “CMR32GX4M4C3466C16” edit: I see you updated your post, ignore this.

Hi, I received my Gigabyte 450$ motherboard faulty on arrival; it kept switching between BIOS chips which reset my overclock settings between boots. It just died on me recently, refusing to boot and as I was removing the motherboard from my PC, I accidentally poured some of the colored coolant on the motherboard and it stained the S/N sticker. Does that effectively void the warranty?

Yea, the PSU is dead. Thanks!

Hi, a week after moving in to a rural town my PC had problems turning on. It’s be stuck in a loop of : turning on, clicking and turning off. Repeat. Until I turn it off from the PSU. there is no debug code or anything; it just keep trying to turn on. after repeatedly turning it on and off, it eventually works and boots into windows. Thinking the problem was resolved, I foolishly turned off my PC and the problem still persists. I eventually got it to boot again and now I’m afraid to turn it off. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions, thanks in advance. edit: never-mind, it’s definitely the power supply , it’s not turning on anymore.

Frankly the premium in my country doesn’t justify the much faster/cheaper customer service. Prices are always high and fixed as they refuse to change based on market behavior.

Hi, I just wanted to share my experience with Gigabyte support. My intention isn’t to claim that Gigabyte won’t offer any sort of support or that you shouldn’t purchase a Gigabyte product; I just want to convey MY experience. So I bought the Gigabyte Gaming 9 X299 motherboard on Newegg for $500. Surely they’ll have stricter quality control with their flagship products? Not in my case, my motherboard refused to save BIOS settings and kept clearing CMOS between system start ups. This was made more infuriating when my monitor doesn’t display the BIOS screen half of the time so I had to restart a couple of times. Needless to say I gave up overclocking. After contacting Gigabyte support in 2017, I provided with suggestions and as you might expect none of those suggestions worked. I was then told that I had to send my motherboard to Newegg which I was reluctant to do so as I lived on the other side of the planet; I wouldn’t enjoy a month long downtime and disassembling my water cooling loop didn’t need sound fun. Now it’s 2019 and I’m planning on traveling this summer which was a perfect opportunity to send my motherboard for support, after all Gigabyte does promise a 3 year labor warranty. I contacted Newegg who claim I need to contact Gigabyte of whom claim Newegg is the correct party to contact. I’ve been back and forth 3 times so far and neither party is willing to take in my motherboard for repair. Newegg says they’ll “get Gigabyte to honor their warranty on my behalf.” Now I’m waiting for Newegg to get back to me.

Probably not because I can't guarantee you'll achieve the same look as Thermaltake's show case's tubing arangement. Especially since you're going with different radiator configuration. They opted for smaller radiators (mostly because the builder was only limited to Thermaltake's water cooling line up. One massive advantage of smaller radiators is that you can raise them to create space at the bottom of the chassis so the radiator's bottom ports are exposed for easier draining. One thing I did learn with my loop is that is was a pain in the *** to drain without a draining valve. I'm not saying you shouldn't go double 560mm radiators, heck despite being way overkill the case was designed to accommodate that specification. You'll just have to plan a different configuration than Thermaltake's showcase. However you can easily maintain the same general design- you'll just need to run certain tubes elsewhere than the one in the picture. Here's the back of the show system to give you an idea on what I'm talking about:

Monoblock: 2 radiators: 4 GPU block : 2 pumps: 4 + 1-2 for every G1/4” angled fitting* you’re planning on using. +2 for good measure. If you’re planning to mount your radiator with the inlet and outlet at the bottom, you will need 4 90 degrees fittings with g1/4” thread. *And anything else you’re planning on adding such as a drainage system. I do HIGHLY recommend adding a drainage valve somewhere in your loops.

I find it hard to see how gold fittings fit with this theme but hey; it’s up to you. Oh, yes. I know you mean you want to primarily use hard tubing but if you look at that tube between the radiator and pump, that’s clearly soft tubing. You can use both hard tubing and soft tubing in your custom loop.

Correct. I hope OP didn’t already buy that card.

Your computer WILL PROBABLY run slower if you update to Windows 10 due to Meltdown and Spectre’s secuirity patches in Windows 10. Like others said: upgrading your SSD is the only meaningful upgrade to your PC which will impact performance and QoL (quality of life- Windows and programs start up faster).