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Techial

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  1. Depending on your motherboard you need to go into the BIOS and turn off low-power mode or whatever it's called. EDIT: Oops, didn't see the sleep. I thought you meant when shutdown *facepalm*
  2. Buy the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro or 990 Pro. I know the band looks fragile because of how small it is, but keep in mind that it's fully f***ing metal. This adjustment band will BEND before breaking. If you do however end up breaking something it'll most likely be the part connecting the metal band to the head cushion. (See: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/broken-beyerdynamic-dt-770-pro-what-to-do.567085/) (Keep in mind Beyerdynamic's headphone EQ is slightly bassy and trebly, some people find it too sharp sounding)
  3. During a Prime95 stress test with my Ryzen 1700x I noticed that the Ryzen Master software jumped to from 41.35 Celsius to -67.35 Celsius and then back up. I haven't been able to recreate this later on, but I've noticed it several times before. What is causing this weird temperature quirk? (I really have a hard time believing that my H110i is managing to freeze my CPU to -67 Celsius ...)
  4. What's fun is that I ran a test with Fraps benchmarking on (Rainbow Six Siege) and Fraps returned the same FPS both BEFORE and AFTER removing CPU 0 affinity on the process. However on my screen it felt much smoother, the aim was also less choppy.
  5. For some weird reason, it doesn't show when running the game benchmarks. However you can definitely feel it when playing, AKA when you get to actually interact with the game. So far it has fixed choppy gameplay in War Thunder and Rainbow Six Siege
  6. This has worked in most games I've played so far. I've paired up the Ryzen 1700x with the Gigabyte 1080 Aorus+ (Not Xtreme) DISABLE CPU 0 IN PROCESS' AFFINITY This has stuttering in these games so far (Maybe exclusive to single-threaded games??): Rainbow Six Siege War Thunder
  7. That is true. Maybe I should clarify that I'm not running my fans at max all the time, just that I would like it to be able to be neutral when running CPU radiator at max. Also yeah, I get that CFM isn't exactly linear; but when you calculate CFM you usually go by a linear formula (To get a sort of "rounded value"). The desired fan speed was determined by the good old trial and error method (Never rely 100% on numbers, test yourself; almost 100% guaranteed to be different in your system even though you might have the same exact specs), by using incense sticks near case openings (PCI slots for instance) to check airflow. If positive: decrease front or increase back depending on what's making the most noise. If negative: increase front or decrease back depending on what makes the most noise. EDIT: 1700x running at 42 Celsius at MAX load after 10 minutes. (Aida64) (Will overclock soon)
  8. Try opening up the side panel of the case. Might be that your new GPU dumps more HEAT up to your CPU cooler. (And doesn't get removed fast enough) EDIT: Would also be a good idea to reapply thermal paste if that doesn't work. Also, the guy above me is suggesting to lower the voltage; do it. There is absolutely no reason to run it at 1.31 volts unless you actually want to overclock. That CPU uses around 1.25v for your clockspeed.
  9. Airflow solved Updated values to give the case a neutral airflow. For those interested in the approximate values for NEUTRAL airflow Without radiator: 194 CFM intake and 194 CFM exhaust With radiator: 158.6338 CFM intake and 158.6338 CFM exhaust
  10. Would this right here be a good config? I'm still unsure as to what option to pick. (I found some ML140 fans laying around, so I have 4 of them)
  11. I've found the black magic I need. Tell me if you think it's a bad idea. (EDIT 2)
  12. Wouldn't that result in a massive positive pressure? (Making hot air accumulate in the middle of the chassis because enough hot air can't escape)
  13. Does the radiator positioning make any sense? Or should I put it at the top like I see everyone else doing. EDIT: I could set up the radiator in the front like in the pictures and then utilize a push-pull setup? That way I think I've got enough air moving through the front that I can put all other fans pointing out. Hold on let me do the math. Math checks out, doing a push-pull configuration at the front would result in getting an ALMOST neutral pressure (Leaning a bit on the positive side) EDIT 2: Seems like I might have found another solution. Check post EDIT.
  14. Currently ordered some parts, among them the Corsair Graphite 760t. It's going to be housing a Ryzen 1700x and a 1080 (Gigabyte Aorus) They still haven't shipped the order, so I could in theory change the case. I want very good airflow for the system as I WILL overclock the system, although not heavily. (Aiming for around 3.8GHz maybe, depending on what makes the most sense thermally) Anyways, I'm using the H110i liquid cooler for the CPU and need some help with setting up the airflow. The PSU will be running in a closed environment (Fan down) I AM NOT 100% SURE THAT THESE ARE THE RIGHT CFM VALUES. Here are some pictures I quickly "assembled" using my limited Paint knowledge: Method 1: Method 2: Any other suggestions? Might even change case. (Running 2x2.5" SSDs and 1x3.5" HDD so a mid tower would actually suffice) I haven't bothered buying an M.2 yet, but I will buy one later this year if I see the need for it. However keep in mind that the GPU is a whopping 293mm long so it won't fit in a lot of the midi-towers where you have to put the 280mm radiator at the front. (Utilizing a push-pull to cool the whole system) EDIT: I've done some research and found out that the 140mm NZXT Aer does 91.19 CFM at 1500 RPM (wtf???) These badboys also push out a ****ton of air. Adding that up makes the intake 182.38 CFM and the exhaust 179.4 CFM. Method 3: EDIT 2: I think these bad boys are the black magic needed to cool in my case (Heh, get the pun? No? Ah ...) A total intake of 194 CFM at MAX load And a total exhaust of 179.4 CFM at MAX load (I'm thinking the website might be giving me the wrong CFM for the NZXT, so I've set up a 4th design) Method 4: I don't plan on running the fans at max all the time, but I really would like the airflow setup to be able to work even at max load.
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