Geotropism

Where i'm from I could sell it for hopefully around €400 based on other sellers' pricing of their second hand 1080s. I could buy a MSI 2070 Gaming Z for around 410.

I should have given more detail. I have a 1440p 165hz G-Sync monitor so it has to be a nvidia graphics card. Would the 1660ti still be able to push 165hz at 1440p on lower settings, or would the 2060 be the best bet?

Yes I will be selling the 1080. I don't care about Raytracing as I know it's in its baby stages now and I will have it constantly turnt off in all games. I just want to know which would have the better performance between the 1660ti and the 2060.

Hello everyone, I've been running an Asus GTX 1080 Turbo for the past two years and I've decided to trade a bit of performance for better temperatures and less noise. Which would be a better choice- the MSI RTX 2060 Gaming Z or the MSI GTX 1660Ti?

I have the DT 990s amped by a FiiO E10K and I'm honestly not that impressed. I don't know what to look for in a pair of headphones, but I just know that the DT990s are underwhelming for me. Would it be worth it to upgrade to something else, say the Massdrop X Sennheiser HD6XX or even the Sennheiser HD600?

So you're saying my I5 8600K @ 4.8GHz isn't fast enough to prevent dips to 40fps? Would overclocking it to 5GHz solve the problem?

Hello everyone, I run all my games on my Acer XB271HU at 165hz and G-Sync on. Whenever I get a small fps drop, say from 164 down to 130, it feels like it's 40 fps for a split second. Does anyone know how to fix this? My GPU is GTX 1080.

Try take out the lithium batteries and put them back in again. On that motherboard the battery is right above the first PCIE slot.

I have an adaptive voltage of 1.255 and core clock of 4.8GHz. I have both SpeedStep and SpeedShift turned on, power plan set to balanced in both BIOS and Windows and I have C-States enabled. Still my CPU has max voltage at near idle. http://prntscr.com/lh357l HWMonitor.txt

Anyone?

The voltage is set to adaptive

Hello everyone,To give you all a bit of backstory, my RGB lights on my ASUS ROG Z370-F mobo randomly turnt off two days ago after having worked fine for nearly a year. I tried many different fixes which ended up with me messing around with my motherboard and eventually reconnecting the LED connector to the motherboard (which still didnt fix the issue). I damaged my motherboard a bit while doing all this, a pin and the grey shielding from the USB 3.1 header were both removed. After all this I just decided to move on and forget about it, but while I was attempting to fix the lights I reset my bios. Now I set all the settings back to the way they were but for some reason my CPU still runs at 1.32v when utilization is in or around 5%. It was never like this before. Usually all cores would have been at 800-1300mhz at idle. My settings are:- All Cores 50- Adaptive Voltage @ 1.3v + 0.015v Offset- Speedstep Enabled- Speedshift Enabled- C- States Enabled- LLC level 5- IA DC/AC @ 0.01- Auto CPU power management- Max Power Saving balance plan in windowshttp://prntscr.com/lbzr4eAs you can see from the picture only one or two cores go to 800mhz then suddenly back to 5GhzAny help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

So I got everything up and running again but the motherboard light still wont turn on, so that was a waste of 3+ hours. The front panels USB still works but only if I swap around the USB cables I put in there.

I managed to get it to fit in again. I just hope that single pin diesnt affect anything.

The photo isnt too clear, but the 2nd pin from the left on the bottom is completely turn off. Theres another usb port next to the sata cables and im gonna try connect it there.

So my LED strip on my ASUS ROG Z370-F randomly turnt off, and I tried every fix until I came to the conclusion that the led connector must have come loose. I opened up my case, unscrewed everything until only the HD Audio and the front panel USB were left connected to the mobo. The HD Audio was stuck in tight enough but eventually I managed to pry it free. The USB however was an entirely different story. It took me 10 minutes of fierce pulling and wiggling left to right before it would detach. I was aware of the blue clips/latches but that didnt help at all. After it came off, the motherboard USB socket guard came off as well and one gold pin broke off entirely. Is this a basis for a warranty claim or is it entirely my fault? Also is USB socket still usable?

Thanks. If you can check out my other post about the led strip on my mobo not working that would be great

Well that kinda sucks.

I've looked up a video of coil whine and most of them are really high pitched, whereas mine is more, for a lack of better word, coarse. I'll try get a better recording of it later and hopefully you guys can confirm whether its coil whine or not.

Is it normal for it to only start coil whining yesterday though? I've had the GPU for a year now and it was never like this

Yesterday as I was playing Overwatch I noticed in the corner of my eye that the LED strip on my Z370-F just randomly turned off. I tried going into the BIOS and turning "ON" to "OFF" then "ON" again in the RGB Strip settings, that didnt work. I then updated the bios and it still didnt work nor did unplugging and replugging in the 24-ATX connector. I never use Aura Sync since I prefer the default rainbow pattern over anything Aura offers but I installed Aura Sync today and it didnt even recognize my motherboard. Any ideas how to fix this?

I've noticed an electrical buzzing noise coming from either my PSU or my GPU when under load. This only started yesterday and my PSU is a Corsair CX750M (Green) and my GPU is a GTX 1080. Any ideas why theres a buzzing noise, or if it's coming from the graphics card or the PSU? I've attached a recording of the noise but I'm not sure how well you'll be able to hear it. Electrical buzz.m4a

https://www.cclonline.com/category/400/PC-Components/ (UK) https://www.scan.co.uk/ (UK)

I've heard Maplins was decent, not sure if they're still in business though. Besides that, your best bet would be Amazon, scan.co.uk, or cclonline.

Try setting your own adaptive voltage