Asiram

Is a 1155 socket chip's IHS the same size as 1151 IHS?

I've been looking around the web for physical dimensions of Intel's IHS, specifically how big is the contact area between IHS and whatever heatsink you put on the CPU? (socket 1151 CPUs)

The numbers for minimum PSU wattage on the first post are WAY overestimated. Base i3 + under 100W GPU = 350W? Complete and utter misinformation. 250W would suffice, and that's with a good 50+W of headroom. Didn't bother reading after that point. Probably even more of the same garbage.

So I guess I'd have to go with 2 RAM sticks only. Are there any E-ATX or ATX motherboards with more spacing between each DIMM?

I am planning on buying four of these RAM copper heatsinks, purely for cosmetic reasons. <Alibaba link> My only concern is, will I be able to fit four DDR4 sticks (with these heatsinks attached) to a motherboard? The cooler is advertised as being 12mm wide. Is that small enough for placing 4 of these next to each other in the DIMM slots? Right now I'm still rocking with older DDR3 hardware, so I don't want to make false assumptions based on what I currently use. Also I am fully aware RAM doesn't need cooling at all, so if you make a comment "but you don't need a copper heatsink on RAM" it means you didn't read this post to the end.

Can you elaborate?

I also was crashing my 4790k if I tried overclocking from inside windows; just do it in BIOS and it should work.

You mean the 7600k? It might lose to 1600 in heavy workloads that favor more cores, but in gaming you will get better framerate with higher-clocked 4c 7600k.

I think he's already using pretty high-end cooling in his stress tests, and even with that over a third of tested chips enter the throttling temperatures. It all comes down to whether you're willing to pay a little bit more for a guarantee that your chip will run cooler than other chips. I think that's a nice investment, it means you can enjoy more quiet because the fans don't need to run as fast to keep the temperatures under control.

Nope, about one third of 7700k doesn't do 5.0Ghz stable without overheating/throttling. The one you can buy for 30$ extra means it will do a 1 hour stress test at 5.0Ghz without thermal throttling. So basically you pay a little extra for a chip that'll run cooler than about 33% of the chips.

I'd need to remove it first to paint it.

Is it possible to remove the heatsink on GSkill TridentZ RGB sticks without affecting the RGB module? I am interested in getting some of that RAM because of RGB, but I really hate the black aluminum heatsink and would like to remove it and paint it some other color.

7600k is more than enough for pushing 144 frames in 1080p. I had no problem doing that with overclocked 4790k, and 7600k is even faster than 4790k and can clock higher. Of course, some games like Dirt4 have problems pushing over 100 frames even with 1080ti. It's getting pretty ridiculous how some games are badly optimised at 1080p, not to mention higher resolutions which will produce unplayable fps. So, buying 1080 or 1080ti won't make your build futureproof, but in most cases it will be enough to push 144 frames.

Thanks, the keys on Tesoro look a bit higher than on my Logitech, but I guess that's still better than the Mount Everest keys on other keyboards lol.

Mechanical keyboards are what cool kids use these days, but as I've been using a low-profile keyboard for the past 10 years, switching to a keyboard that has high keys is IMPOSSIBLE for me. I borrowed a mechanical keyboard from a friend and tried using it for 2 weeks; I was so frustrated when using it, I kept hitting the top of other keys as a result of being unable to adapt to the longer vertical distance each key has to travel to reach its default position. Are there any good keyboard with low keys? I've seen a few of them in electronics stores, but they were all low on weight and moved around the desk too much, even with light typing. And just holding them in my hands, I could feel how cheaply they were made. What I'm looking for is something like my Logitech UltraX Premium... It's a heavy keyboard (over 1 kilogram) and I love how it doesn't move a milimeter even when furiously typing in heated internet arguments. Only reason I want to replace it is, it's beginning to show its age after 10 years of everyday usage (and buying a new one is impossible nowadays, since it's been out of production for years now). Keys are running just as new after all that time, but the matte finish on the keys has long worn off and revealed the shiny black plastic beneath. It's also pretty troublesome when disassembling for periodic cleaning sessions, as the plastics can be damaged if not doing it with enough care. Already had to buy an additional keyboard just to scavenge for the plastic pieces I've broken. It'd also be nice if the keyboard had RGB and programmable buttons.