UntitledName

Just for reference, I ended up replacing the motherboard which fixed the issue, so I'm positive it must've been something with the BIOS. If my motherboard had flashback support maybe that would have fixed it, but it's a relief it wasn't some other obscure issue.

Thanks for the offer! I live in Japan though so that's probably not possible lol

Thanks for the suggestion! However neither a new cmos battery nor the bios update has done anything, so I think this means I need to try replacing the motherboard.

All tutorials I've found on flashing the bios get you to do it from within the bios, which I can't do if I can't get to the bios. Will this work if I just remove all other drives?

I just tried without the battery, no luck. It was exactly the same

Ordered! I've cleaned out the RAM slots which didn't help, but I'll wait until I've tried a new battery to check the CPU because I literally just reapplied thermal paste yesterday and I don't want to do that all over again while there are other options.

SPECS: - ASUS Prime Z370-AII - Intel i7 8700K - Corsair Vengeance 16GB 3000MHz DDR4 x2 - EVGA RTX 2080 I built my PC back in 2019 and it worked fine for a year until 2020 when I moved countries. I couldn't bring it with me because I didn't have the space for it, but 3 years later I've finally gotten it shipped over. The only problem is that Windows immediately bluescreens upon startup (ACPI BIOS ERROR) and I can't access the BIOS. I've tried removing the drives, moving the RAM around, removing the GPU, and resetting the RTC RAM, but nothing has helped. When removing the boot drive, the computer just goes to a black screen. When booting, the DRAM light comes on for a moment before going off, and then the VGA light comes on for a bit as well. All the fans/lights come on as normal. Any ideas what this could be? I've checked for physical damage, and I see no damage on anything. All similar problems I've found online have been from people who have been able to access their BIOS. The only other thing I can think to do before replacing the motherboard is changing the CMOS battery which I have to wait a few days for. (Also, my PSU is compatible with mains voltage/frequency in this country)

Yep, I have them both maxed out, but it still doesn't make a difference

I've set it up and I have the volume for the device at max, but it's still too quiet. The only other thing I can do is turn up the boost, but that just distorts the audio

Thanks, I'll try both! I don't, but that's a good idea, thanks!

I can't believe I never thought of that. My desktop doesn't have a bluetooth receiver, but would an external receiver like this work?

I have a setup where I have an aux cable plugged into the mic in on my (integrated) sound card, with windows configured to listen to the input. This allows me to play audio from other devices - such as my laptop or phone - through my desktop. Although this works fine, I'm facing a few problems: The setup seems kinda janky. I mean, I'm obviously not the first person to want to play audio from other devices through my desktop, but it seems like there must be a better way of doing this. The audio is quiet. This was to be expected, but the volume drops by about 60% compared with playing directly from the device. There is a lot of background noise. Again, I'm not particularly surprised by this. I feel like a DAC/AMP system would solve most of these problems, but I'm not overly familiar with them, and I don't know whether such a system would be able to support effectively two audio inputs (from my desktop and the other device). Would a DAC/AMP solve my problems, or would I need to try something else? I'm a college student, so the cheaper the solution the better, thanks!