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thenzfarmer

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  • Posts

    45
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Interests
    Kitesurfing & computing
  • Occupation
    Analyst Energy & Resources

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core I7-7700K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Strix Z270i
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident Z RGB F4-3200C16D-16GTZR 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4
  • GPU
    PNY Founders Edition GTX 1080Ti
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define Nano S - MATX
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 1TB SSD
  • PSU
    Bitfenix Fury 750G
  • Display(s)
    Acer - XB270HU 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor
  • Cooling
    Custom acrylic loop with EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM Pump Plexi, EK RES X3 110 Reservoir, EK CoolStream CE 280 and SE 240 Slim Dual Radiators
  • Keyboard
    Topre Realforce RGB
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder Chroma
  • Sound
    Bose Companion 20 & Steelseries Siberia 650
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Oh well I guess I need to transfer my M2 to the rear slot then! That will make a world of difference to how my temps are managed. Much appreciated!
  2. Oh man, love the white/black contrast in that case - looks amazing! Glad the layout worked out for you! I see your rear fan is in push config - what temps are you getting on your M.2 SSD during heavy load? (Gaming or other).
  3. Oooooh I like the idea, so long as there is enough airflow considering you are feeding 2x140mm fans, possibly at high rpms (approx. 1,000rpm when gaming). Please let me know how you go, I'm curious to know if all that airflow through the sides of the front panel will make some noise. Also, make sure you keen an eye on SSD temps
  4. Totally, forgot you have much more room up top thanks to the fans being outside - how will you manage dust?
  5. Hmmm given this a bit of a look - the left most fan of the top rad sits above the rear fan, hence no screw or L bracket needed. If a L bracket was needed, it would be to attach the rightmost fan of the SE240 to the front rad in your scenario.
  6. Ah! yes, paper is a great idea! And I like the L bracket idea too! Might give that a go myself ? Good luck!
  7. Hey Sean, Thanks for the great feedback and also the suggestion for the moduvent - that was going to be my next objective and I really like your idea and will need to test moduvent height first to make sure having it fixed there is a good outcome seeing that I usually remove it during long gaming sessions! I'm so happy with the Phanteks 140mm fans - they have given me such great pull on that front rad but yeah, a lot of research was involved. As for the top rad in conjunction with the front CE280, yes there was some scratching involved but what I did is : Take the empty case Insert the CE280 and push it into place Screw in the two bottom screws of the top 140mm fan but not the two top ones Insert the SE240, ensuring you push it hard against the rear/left/top corner (top left of window) and then sliding it in against the 140mm fan you screwed in At that point, the rad will hold there by itself (it won't tilt down on the window side, the case's shape prevents that) - then, during the rest of the build, just screw in supporting screws through a mesh-holes at the top of the case to hold it in place - I have three there Once it's all put together, you'll find the pressure exerted by the back of the case and the front/top 140mm fan are enough to hold it in place without the supporting screws. I keep the screws in there because I'm paranoid that I'll move my build and throw it in the trunk of a car, the rattling will make it drop. Further to that and aligned with your suggestion for the moduvent, you could possibly kill two birds with one stone by screwing screws with the wider bump stops into the rad, which will be non-invasive for the case and do the trick. When it comes to installing the RAM, there is enough room to wiggle the sticks between the tubing and insert them but then it's your choice how easy you want this process to be - I have the knack now so I don't bother removing it, but I used to remove the right-most fan on the SE240 to give more room to my fingers and ensure the sticks were correctly inserted Hope this helps, I'll post a photo of the top of the case without the moduvent to show you what it looks like. Let me know if you have any other questions - Mike
  8. Final update - all the performance issues are resolved (clean install of Windows without ASUS Suite 3). The PC runs very very well. The CPU gets hot during load (max of 85C) while the GPU reaches as high as 55C. Idle temps are 40-50C for the CPU and 30C for the GPU. Here are pics of the finished product
  9. Haha right? How can a single piece of software mess things up so perfectly... Glad my fans are controlled through Thermaltake and Corsair apps - only the pump needs ASUS control and I leave that to the BIOS. But goodness me... what a joke! Months wasted because of one little piece of software Grrrrrrrrrrrrr
  10. Final update - turning the fan around fixed the issue. The RAM sticks blocked airflow from the front fans and the rad for the M.2 basically sat in a hot pocket of air from both the M.2 itself and the GPU underneath it. Magnetic fan filter in the mail and all the issues will be resolved! Thank you for all your help and suggestions xo
  11. Hey, been a while since I last posted - I finally got around to testing the system with a different PSU and the issue was exactly the same. Upon shutting down all ASUS related apps however, the problem seems to be gone (fan control, lighting and EZupdate). XMP profile activated with slight CPU OC, prefer maximum performance activated in NVIDIA control panel etc. Thank you to all for your help, I'll report back when I'm satisfied all the issues have been ironed out after sufficient testing. Might finally be able to game haha For other people with this issue: https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-performance-winpc/asus-ai-suite-3-causing-issues-until-uninstall/35f45842-deef-486d-bb29-b8284f0efeab?auth=1
  12. Hey, just a little update! I've been running the system with no cooler/cover on the SSD and its temps remain below 75 degrees, which is well within its tolerance limits. All I did was turn the rear fan around so it blows cool air into the system, directly onto the SSD, instead of out. I need to get a magnetic dust filter to attach to the rear of the system but that's done it for now :0 Thanks for all the advice, still tempted to get an EK cooler at some point soon - just not yet. Mike
  13. Hmmmm no I couldn't, doesn't seem to be a correlation... For some reason I just played another round of BF1 and the rails seem stable... Will swap out the PSU ASAP and if that doesn't fix it, it's either the MOBO or the GPU. Man this is annoying - 10+ years building my own systems and this is my first real struggle...
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