ZenMonkey

Oh man, I would love an LG CX, but I was concerned over the bright room quality plus the $2200 price tag. Is it really worth that much more?

I'm looking to upgrade to a 65" TV. Right now, I have a 55" Toshiba L621U, which I use primarily for watching content via stream with various apps (VRV, Plex, YouTube, Hulu, Disney+, Netflix, Amazon Video... pretty much everything except HBO max at the moment). My living room tends to be moderately lit at night to brightly lit on sunny days. I almost never watch TV in the dark, and I don't have much of a glare issue where my TV sits. I use an NVidia shield once in a blue moon to do some gaming on my TV, but don't do any console gaming. I'm trying to stay under $1500. After about two weeks of research, I'm currently split between the Hisense H9G to save $500 (but I heard they had an update that kind of invalidates a lot of the reviews from earlier this year) or the Sony X950H which seems to have better picture quality all around, so I figured I'd ask you fine folks. Any advice? Is there an option I'm overlooking or anecdotal evidence I should consider?

It's an issue detecting the video card when the system boots up. Sometimes it won't register and display video out. I've tried two different cards in both slots on the board, and both cards work in another system, so I returned the board. I'm getting the replacement tonight.

I'm pretty sure it's not required. I'm using a 3700X on a B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC, and currently I only have the 8-pin connected. When it boots up, it seems to be fine. I've hit 4.35-4.45 GHz on every core (at different times) with PBO enabled, but I'm having some system stability issues I think are related to the board. I'm replacing the motherboard tonight (same model, new board), and if problems persist this is a variable I can't currently address because my current PSU only has the one 8-pin connection for the CPU.

I'm looking for a modular power supply with two CPU connectors because my motherboard has an 8 pin and a 4 pin connector. I saw this one on Amazon and it fits my needs, but it has five 8-pin connections that are all listed as "CPU/PCI-E." I thought it did bad things to connect the GPU into the CPU connector, or vice versa. Has this changed? Is this a wiring thing with this particular PSU that makes it okay? Am I missing something? Thanks!

I just upgraded to a 3700X. I'm not planning to upgrade again for another 5 years.

I want a reliable board that will allow me to get the fullest performance out of my 3700X for the least amount of money I need to spend on it. Also, a bunch of fan headers would be nice. Do you mean literal shades of yellow? That doesn't bother me. I don't use a side window or any of that fancy stuff, so I'll never be able to tell.

I just built a system with a Ryzen 3700X, but I need to return my motherboard, so I'm looking for suggestions on a good, solid, not too expensive board that will help me get the most out of my new processor. Preferably one I can buy today on Amazon so it arrives this weekend. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks for the link. That answered my question. For anyone else who doesn't already know, the answer is: No. The max boost is pretty much the most you can ever expect to see from the chip w/o LN2.

Will Precision Boost Overdrive allow a 3000 series CPU to boost past it's max boost speed if the cooling solution is sufficient, or will it stop at max boost no matter what?

The room is fairly dark, or can be made dark, it should be about 12 feet from projector to wall, and she plans to paint the wall and project directly onto the wall, if that makes a difference. There's a hard cut-off at $800. Thanks

My friend just moved into an apartment and asked me to recommend a projector. My knowledge of projectors is all 10-15 years out of date, so I'm turning to you fine folks. Can you recommend some mid-range projectors to me?

Thanks. I saw this case a few months back and liked the look but had forgotten about it. It looks like it fits my needs and is also a few inches smaller than the Meshify C Mini. Great suggestion!

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll do some research on it. I'm a little disappointed it doesn't come in blue, but green isn't so bad. Would a 240 AIO fit on the top? Would a 120 AIO fit on the front or back with the 240 installed on the top?

Since I don't make use of all the extra PCIe slots, I'm thinking about switching from ATX to a Micro ATX case to save a little desk real estate and go for a different aesthetic. I'd go ITX, but that seems like too much of a sacrifice on overclocking and cooling. I'd like to find a case that: a) has good air flow b) can fit both a 240mm (or 280) AIO and a 120mm (or 140) AIO c) looks good d) is as small as possible while meeting these conditions The top cases I could find are the InWin 301C, the Enthoo Evolv mATX, the Meshify C Mini, and the H400i. I really like the look of the 301C, plus a USB 3.1 gen 2 port on the front is nice, but the air flow and cooling don't seem that great. I also like the look of the H400i, but I don't use RGB so the extra cost isn't appealing. The Enthoo Evolv mATX and Meshify C Mini cases seem like they fit the bill, but they also seem quite large - only slightly smaller than their ATX counterparts. The Corsair Air 240 also caught my attention, but it looks like fitting two radiators would be tricky. If I had to pick one from the choices above today, I'd likely end up with the Meshify C Mini, but I figured I'd ask you fine folks what your experiences are with any of the above cases, and which mATX case would you recommend? Thanks in advance.