GrandExchange

Hi there! Recently I got got some budget to upgrade my work station, I'm mainly an illustrator/lighting artist that often deal with color sensitive stuff. I've been shopping around, but my knowledge about monitor is quite limited, I have around 2K budget and currently using a cheap 25 inch 1920x1080p 165hz LED monitor as my main work monitor and 2 really cheap 19inch 1080p LED monitor as my side monitor for discords and references/utility monitor. Initially, I was eyeing this two particular monitor LG 40WP95C-W 40 and LG 49WQ95C-W However the first choice take most of my budget with just one monitor, and refresh rate is not very desirable, while the second choice has amazing refresh rate and a bit cheaper, it simply too long and too "squished" without enough curves, I afraid it might make it hard to see content on both edge of the screen, especially when I find my works often lacking in the Vertical space so 5120 x 2160 seems extremely attractive.) I decided to look around a bit more to try to find if having x3 of cheaper mid-range monitor for 3440 x 1440 and use vesa stands to arrange them instead of putting it all on one monitor. Some of the options are Nixeus EDG 34” Ultrawide x3 and GIGABYTE G34WQC A 34 x3 (leaning toward this one the most beside the LG 40WP95C) Ultimately, I look for a decent IPS/VA panel monitor that can allow me to do accurate color work for my day work and still has good refresh rate for gaming, with 2K budget, those are my choice so far but admittedly I'm ignorance when it come to monitor, if there any other great suggestion I'd really appreciate it! Thank you everyone in advance for your help, cheers!

thank you very much, I'd note that down.

Ouch! I never heard of MasterLiquid before but it's like only few AIO they offers, I don't mind spending a bit more if they let me swap it out for something else, my daughter's old PC use a NZXT Kraken, perhaps I should try to look for something similar.

Ah, thank you. My daughter is an 3D artist, she does a lot of Maya, Blender and whatnot and I guess some of those application could put it in such situation? I will be replacing the PSU either way so thank you for recommending higher wattage, do you have a specific recommendation that work with the rest of the system? many thanks.

Hi all, I've recently purchased a system for my daughter to be shipped by end of February from Cyberpower, While I would've been more comfortable building the PC my self, the shortage of 3000's series card make it extremely hard to do so. The PC was part of a very..short sale that I managed to land, so I believe this is a good deal for the money considering the spec. the only thing I'm really skeptical about is their build quality or customer service, I looked them up on forum and they are littered with complaints. my last pre-built was made by iBuyPower and it has been a solid PC for 9 years now, I don't know much about Cyberpower though. as Initially I intended to get my PC done by NZXT BLD, but their pricing is far higher, though I believe they have a bit better reputation in quality. After watching Linus Prebuilt series, at least it seems IBP is more competence in handling your PC/CS. I wonder if the reviews as bad as they are for Cyberpower, I could wait for the system to ship and if push come shove if it get bad, I can try NZXT BLD instead. Has anyone here ever had an experience with Cyberpower? The PC CASE: Eclipse P418R DRGB ATX Mid-Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case + 3x 120mm ARGB Fans VIDEO: GeForce RTX™ 3070 8GB GDDR6 CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-10900KF 10/20 3.70GHz [Turbo 5.2GHz] 20MB Cache LGA1200 [w/o Integrated Graphic] (Comet Lake-S) FAN: MasterLiquid Lite 120mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate HDD: 1TB Intel® 665P SERIES PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD - Seq R/W: Up to 2000/1925 MB/s, Rnd R/W up to 160/250k(Single Drive) HDD2: 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 256MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive) MEMORY: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel Memory (Crucial Ballistix Sport) MOTHERBOARD: ASUS PRIME Z490-V ATX, ARGB, 1GbE LAN, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 4 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe + WiFi 6 Intel 201AX POWERSUPPLY: 600 Watts - Standard 600Watts 80 Plus Gold high-efficient Power Supply Total : $1570 aside the notorious standard PSU that I will need swap out for the safety of the PC, I think this isn't bad.

Hi, it's not getting shipped until few weeks later so I won't be able to tell, I asked support about possibly switching it out before they process it but they won't due to it being a promotional item. So I'd have to switch it out if its some generic one, if I get lucky and get a decent branded one then I probably won't need replacing, it's a bit of a gamble, so I'd like to know ahead in the event I have to swap them out. The build was rated as 420W so I though 600W would been okay. I can spent up to additional $100 for another PSU. Thank you!

Hi all, I recently got a bonus and decided to treat my daughter who been using a 11 year old PC to something better, I got it from Cyberpower from a presale at $1450 or so total, it was cheaper than what I could build my self, and given the GPU shortage of the 3070 it was a no brainer. but I noticed that the power supply being listed as "standard" and remembering my own system being fried by an "standard" power supply from a old prebuild vendor before. I would love it if any of you guys can help me find a proper replacement PSU for my daughter's pc. I'm not confidence in finding these new parts as I'm not very familiar with the newer stuff, some being single rails, multi rails and what not and old me can't really tell what would connect to the parts I have. Thank you so much in advance; Here's are the PC : CASE: Eclipse P418R DRGB ATX Mid-Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case + 3x 120mm ARGB Fans CPU: Intel® Core™ Processor i9-10900KF 10/20 3.70GHz [Turbo 5.2GHz] 20MB Cache LGA1200 [w/o Integrated Graphic] (Comet Lake-S) FAN: MasterLiquid Lite 120mm ARGB CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump & Copper Cold Plate HDD: 1TB Intel® 665P SERIES PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD - Seq R/W: Up to 2000/1925 MB/s, Rnd R/W up to 160/250k (Single Drive) HDD2: 2TB (2TBx1) SATA-III 6.0Gb/s 256MB Cache 7200RPM HDD (Single Drive) MEMORY: 32GB (8GBx4) DDR4/3000MHz Dual Channel Memory (Crucial Ballistix Sport) MOTHERBOARD: ASUS PRIME Z490-V ATX, ARGB, 1GbE LAN, 2 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 4 SATA3, 2x M.2 SATA/PCIe + WiFi 6 Intel 201AX NETWORK: Onboard Gigabit LAN Network OS: Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition) POWERSUPPLY: 600 Watts - Standard 600Watts 80 Plus Gold high-efficient Power Supply VIDEO: GeForce RTX™ 3070 8GB GDDR6

Good Idea. I'd do that now! thanks for the suggestion. Edit: It came back clean 100%. and there is no comments.

It started out a week ago when I was using Bluestack and my Avast poped this up on my face, about 4 times in a row. So I quickly did a full Pc scan, including Malware scan with malware Bytes, they return finding nothing. then like an hour later, I spotted this poped up on my notification by Bluestack. I googled it and it seem to suggest it's some form of ...Crypto currency miner? I went to Bluestack and give them the screenshot and info and this is their response. ______________ "See this thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/BlueStacks/comments/8z8ah9/avg_threat_name_elfmirairqtrj/ TL;DR: Your system is infected with an IoT malware - likely via something you downloaded on your computer. This is not from BlueStacks. Also, this has nothing to do with Cryptocurrency or Crypto mining. Unlike others in this space that try to monetize their software selling your data or running cryptominers, our business model is straightforward and laid out clearly in our TOS. com.ufo.miner is one of the many flavors of malware that package a javascript wrapper for miners like Coinhive. We actively remove these APKs but it's a game of cat and mouse as the authors change the APK name constantly. How you got this is unknown. It did not come from BlueStacks. The current theory we are exploring is external malware (like the worm your system is infected with) searches out software like BlueStacks and installs malware in the virtual environment in hopes that your system would not detect it. This is still under investigation as you can see in the thread I posted below. That said, I need to stress this again, this malware did not come from or with BlueStacks." _______________ I decided to try to do a scan again, boot scan, registry clean, malware scan, gave Win defender scan a shot as well, they all found nothing. and then this pop up. At this point I'm not sure what to do, are the scan is insufficient to find/remove this Mirai Trojan? Or is this Bluestack's issues? I can just find another android emulator but I don't want to ignore the possibly of the underlying issue if it turns out I'm infected with Mirai and not Bluestack's doing. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I hit a dead end here and aside extreme measure like reformatting, I'm not sure what else could be done. Thank you for your time.

Hi! I've been struggling with my SSD space usage as various thing kept fighting over the last 10GB on it, making my daily usage of program like Photoshop a nightmare as it constantly running low on disk space thanks to photoshop temp and pagefiles. I'm using Spacesniffer to try to figure out what I can delete and I found this huge folder from Programdata/Intel/SUR/WILLIAMETTE/Inteldata that takes up like 10GB of space on an small SSD of 100GB which is a lot. I could't find any definitive answer anywhere if this is a safe folder to delete or not. I also noticed WnSXS and Installer folder (20Gb and 10GB) but I think those are pretty critical files so I won't be going anywhere near them, unless I'm wrong. So I just want to know if the inteldata folder is safe for delete or not. I'm sorry if this is wrong forum to post this in! Thank you very much in advance.

will do. I don't generally have a good experience with chinese hardware, one of them actually caught on fire, good thing it din't kill me. Thanks for the reminder, cheers. edit: though admittedly, its extremely hard to find a specific replacement piece on amazon without seeing "made in china" ..

thank you for the quick reply! much appreciated for the confirmation.

HI! I'm sorry if this has been asked before, I tried to search but I could't find anything related. I'm giving my nephew my old monitor so he can have a multi monitor set up for his school works (and games.) http://www.samsung.com/uk/monitors/led-s19b150n/ However I could not find the PSU/power adapter for the unit anywhere, so I'm looking to buy a replacement, however amazon only have this one available https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJAM52E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AXZD0AJNQX5UZ&psc=1 without expedited prime shipping, the cost + shipping cost totalling $14.88 and might take a while to come. Her Bday is coming up in a few days, so I'm just wondering is it possible for a similar/off brand PSU to work with the monitor as long as it the same voltage? something like https://www.amazon.com/Doctor-INC-SyncMaster-S22A300B-S20A350B/dp/B013FKSHB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518780163&sr=8-4&keywords=samsung+14v+dc+monitor+power+supply&dpID=51OlHqdu02L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch where it could arrive before her birthday and doesn't come with an extra shipping cost. Thank you for your answers in advance! it will help me greatly. Cheers!

Oh this look great, but ouch the price. I'll debate for a day and see if I'll settle for it. thank you!

I'm not sure if this actually a thing but I learned it the hard way, I was gaming normally and started to notice a faint smell of burning plastic, I instantly check all my wiring and sockets, and checking the PC temperature which is all fine until the wire of the headset touch my leg and burns it, apparently somehow the wire gotten hot enough to the point the plastic cover started to melt off. It was some generic brand "gaming" headset Sentey something and it was like $29. So now I need to treat the burn and a replacement, never again with the cheap headset though, you get what you pay for. Can anyone recommend me a reliable USB headset under about 70? I know this still pretty budget but I hope it enough to not as bad as melting-headset-of-death, if I need to put $10-20 extra I could. I actually have other headset, but my audio jack is dead on both front and back for some reason so I have to use USB instead. Thank you very much.