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Ardox

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    Ardox1152

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  1. I currently don't have a graphics card so waiting isn't much of an option really
  2. I am currently in the situation where I am getting a RTX 2080 and putting a waterblock on it, but with all the reviews and the weird things nvidia has been pulling I am finding myself rather confused on which card to actually get. I kinda narrowed my options down to either a EVGA 2080 XC or a founders edition card directly from nvidia. My confusion mainly comes from the fact that nvidia keeps the better chips to themselves, so I assume it would be best to get a card from nvidia directly, right? But with EVGA's Precision X1 overclocking utility it seems like the EVGA cards are allowed for 130% power when overclocking while nvidias card only get 124% and they go as low as 109 for some of the partner cards. I basically want the best performance given the fact that I am putting the card under water and therefore temps should be quite low. Help!
  3. The gigabyte 2080 card has 8+6 pcie power connectors while most other 2080's have 2x 8 pins. Is this something to be "concerned" about?
  4. I'm currently in the situation where my 1080ti died and I got my purchase refunded. I can get a Gigabyte windforce OC 2080 for the same price as a Asus Strix 1080 ti. I know there's a lot of talk going on about which of the series to chose (2080 vs 1080ti) but usually the 2080 costs more in those discussions. I am putting a waterblock on the card so please help me chose
  5. The thing about the voltage in idle that bugs me, is the idle temps are notably higher when overclocked. If voltage and amps together = power, can you please explain why idle temps go up even when usage is at basically 0%? Idle temps are around mid 30's and max temps hit around 70 under full prime95 load with small spikes in mid 70's but 95% of the time they stick around 65-70. I haven't delidded yet.
  6. I've been the type of guy who for several years have been overclocking by following a very general overclocking guide for the specific CPU I am overclocking and once stable it has been a set and forget kind of thing. Recently I went from a ryzen 1700 to a i7 8700k and followed der8auer's overclocking guide, but this time I actually tried to delve slightly more into how the different settings actually work, mainly LLC settings vs core voltage. What bugs me is my idle core voltage (measured through cpu z) is at 1.296v and droops down to about 1.280 under load due to LLC. Isn't there a way to have the system reduce the core voltage on idle and increase under load? Windows power plan is at balanced, so my clocks are ramping up and down but sadly not the core voltage Specs for my rig are: 8700k, 1080ti, 16gb 3200mhz ram, maximus x formula, axi 860w, 500gb intel 600p and I am cooling it all with a custom loop. My overclocking settings are: XMP MCE off avx -3 5ghz across all cores CPU svid support off LLC5 Long and short duration package power limit to max CPU core/cache current limit max min/max cpu cache ratio 42 BCLK aware adaptive voltage off CPU core voltage override 1.31v Sorry if this is a stupid question or has been answered before, but my google skills sadly aren't helping me much
  7. The leak happened immediately. It was within 30 seconds of filling the loop that I noticed it. I don't know if that amount of time is enough to pick up minerals from the loop.
  8. I ran mayhems blitz part 2 through my system and I diddn't tighten the fitting on the top VRM of the Maximus X Formula properly which made it tickle a few drops down onto the cpu block and a few more further down on the shield covering the front of the motherboard. I am not sure if any drops made their way down behind the shield and onto the motherboard, so my question is, is this stuff conductive? Only the pump was powered from a 2nd PSU. I don't see anything indicating the motherboard got exposed. I mixed the solution with destilled water. Should I just blowdry it for a little while in case anything did hit the motherboard?
  9. I am making some changes to my build while doing some cleaning of my components and I decided to build in a Fractal Design R6. I don't want to go with real thick radiators so I did some research and found that the Black Ice Nemesis GTS radiators were doing really well for thin radiators, so I went ahead and ordered two 360's. The plan is to have 1 mounted in the top and 1 in the front but as they are way more restrictive than regular radiators I started having some doubts as if my d5 pump will be fine? The loop will be: EK-XRES 140 Revo d5 pump/res combo -> 1080ti -> Supremacy EVO cpu block -> Nemesis GTS 360 top mount -> Nemesis GTS 360 front mount -> back to pump. Will I need a second pump or am I fine?
  10. In case it actually is dried out o ring grease it wouldn't really matter, right?
  11. Yes, I used soapy water with a soft brush and a slightly abrasive automotive polish thingy for chrome and copper and it doesn't come off. I was afraid to keep going in case more would flake off. I am pretty sure it is copper you see on my block.
  12. So I am doing my annual cleaning and I seem to have scraped a bit of the nickel plating where the o Ring would go exposing a tiny bit of copper underneath. I seem to remember that warrants the warranty but will it harm my loop? I assume it won't affect anything, but I'd rather ask here and be sure. I tried to take a picture of it. Right top side you see a dot of copper.
  13. If a power supply doesn't have the wattage to let's say support a graphics card's 100% performance, will the pc crash or will the graphics card simply throttle and reduce performance? My theory is the pc will crash regardless of what brand the gfx, psu or whatever other component is just like a cpu will crash if you set the multiplier too high and vcore too low. Am I losing my mind here? Can anyone confirm this?
  14. I got the r7 1700 @ 3.9 alrdy Can't go to 4 tho
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