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Rakso

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System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 1600x
  • Motherboard
    Asus Strix B350-F
  • RAM
    GSkill Trident Z 3000
  • GPU
    Asus Dual GTX 1060 3gb
  • Cooling
    Cryorig H7
  1. I've been having the same problem of stuttering. Even when Im just on the desktop. If I move my mouse in circles. every second or so. It lags for like .5 seconds. Haven't tried anything yet. Just looking around to see if other people are having the same problem. Also, If I'm watching netflix or something, Everything is going fine. Then if I start moving my mouse in circles, It seems like even netflix lags just like the mouse does
  2. Probably gonna be trying this no key windows. But In case for whatever reason I decide to get an OEM key from a website such as Kinguin. I see that you guys are saying you will still get updates and such. Later on when Windows 11 or whatever comes out. Would I be able to upgrade for free as with a retail version? Also I've heard that the OEM keys from sites like that are a little more exposed in terms of security? Or missing some stuff? I cant remember and am not savvy when it comes to the innerworkings of Windows.
  3. @WoodenMarker Its the Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming Well the fan that is currently stock in the back, Im just moving it to the top towards the front. to make room for the 2 white fans. So 3 and 3 And that makes sense, higher rpm intake than exhaust. But doesnt it matter how much air its actually getting? What if the higher RPM intakes are still intaking less air then what the lower RPM exhausts are exhausting, then I would have to lower the exhaust RPM further right? In which case is it even worth it, which brought me to the point of: A: Don't get PWM fan B: Get a PWM but cheaper and that doesn't have as high an airflow since im gonna be running them at lower RPM's anyways C: It actually is worth it, and I should get those PWM
  4. So as far as I can understand, its just fans you can control? So is the difference between pwm and non-pwm that non(when connected to a motherboard) will increase or decrease RPM according to temperature on its own and PWM you can set a fan curve? I have the MeanIt 5PM BLK case. Comes with a fan controller, but according to the case manual. You can only set it to PWM mode when ALL fans connected to it are PWM. I have the Strix B350 board so I should just plug any PWM fan I get into the chassis header? My case has 4 140mm fans. 3 front intakes and 1 exhaust at the back and am using Cryorig H7 to cool my R5 1600x. Just for aesthetic, I want 2 white fans(thinking of the cryorig QF140). 1 in the back, and one on top towards the back, so 6 fans total. If you see the case, it doesn't really have good airflow. Just a thin opening around the front panel. I plan on keeping the stock fans on. So is there another configuration I should be running besides 3 front intake and 3 exhausts? And since the 2 fans that are gonna be PWM fans are gonna be set to exhaust, are they really gonna be that beneficial over non pwm? Also, If I want a slightly positive pressure, Is that a hard thing to do in cases with bad airflow? Since those cryorig fans are capable of more airflow than the stock ones, I'd have to set it to a lower RPM, at that point it doesnt seem worth to spend $15 on fans I wont be making much use out of. Lots of questions, thanks for taking the time to read. Answer what you would like and give any advice you see fit. Happy Holidays!
  5. Alright, Ill try one of those out and I'm sure itll work, if not Ill come back. Thanks guys
  6. Its NTFS now, but still 32gb and still cant delete. (If I get it to work under a different file system. Should I change it back to FAT32?)
  7. @Theguywhobea I see here the 2 partitions like you say. It wont let me delete the 32gb one though. I have the option to format it though. If I have to format to delete to format again, what options Do I do in the format?
  8. @paddy-stone aww I feel dumb lol. So it did say use a blank one, so the lost files are on me. But didn't warn the dangers of changing your usb capacity. You could argue that it says blank 8gb so if you just do what it says you wont have a problem. But come oooon ha
  9. its an emtec click 128gb usb 3.0. I did go to reformat. I dont know what the changes do though so I came on here to see if they could even help me. On capacity, the only option is 32gb. and When I clicked on restore device defaults, it just stayed the same.
  10. So It is my fault that I was unaware of the cost of creating a bootable windows on my USB. But maybe you can help me fix it Firstly, I lost my files which If I could get back would be cool, but its not too big a deal. But more importantly, My 128gb usb is now a 32gb usb. Really sad that I wasnt prompted by a warning of this danger before creating this tool, but I guess when you're building computers its up to you to know. But if anyone knows a way and can help me, that would be much appreciated.
  11. Sorry, what I shoulda said. I would game 1080p with a 1060 until the 4k went down. So if its only a year. I could manage. 980ti also sounds good if its around the same price as the 1060's were before the mining. So get 1060 or lower right now and game 1080p. Or get a 1070(if they restock) or Vega. and ride that out. Only thing though is like you said. 1070's if you're lucky will get 60fps at 4k. So I feel like when the 4k craze gets cheaper, i would have to upgrade whether I have a 1060 or a 1070. Which is why I mention the 1060.
  12. So with more popularity of 4k I'm hoping the next gen of cards are going to be able to handle it even better. So should I get a 1060 then wait for the next or maybe even next next card? Then get a 4k 144hz monitor when they go down in price. Or just buy a 1070(when prices go down) and just buy the newer card at the time that those 4k 144hz monitors become affordable. I guess kinda depends on the timeline of how soon you guys see those next/next next cards coming out and also the monitors being cheaper
  13. As in, if I took what glen said about the 60hz monitor. and change it to a 144hz. Would all those things he listed still hold true. but with the number "144" replacing all the "60"
  14. Well I'm still deciding between a light gaming build or a higher end one. For the lighter one, Im sure the monitor wont matter a great deal. But for the higher end one, was just looking at a predator or xf240H. Even if I have an nvidia card, the 240H seems like a pretty good monitor for good price. Its 144hz, so I was hoping that higher refresh rate would make it ok that I wouldnt have gsync. But looking at what Glen said, if the parameters shift to 144 with the monitor, then I'd be under and that wouldnt be good? Sorry, I know im all over the place, lol
  15. Side question. While gsync is nice to have. As long as I dont go below the refresh rate of my monitor, I should be good without it? Although I hear that if you turn on the sync so that you wont get tearing, you'll be laggy? Basically, if I get a $200 monitor over a ~$400 one, will I have a bad time?
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