LainVonDark

I'd suspect a dying motherboard over a dying PSU in this case, but the suggestions above are still valid.

Hi My PC is logging into a black screen after the latest updates. I type in my password on the windows login, it takes an unusually long time, and then the screen just stays black forever. I can open the task manager, but not much else. Trying to force explorer to start won’t work thoughts? EDIT: So, turns out it is not fixed at all. Still booting into a black screen unless I start it in safe mode EDIT 2: The machine will consistently start if I disable the startup items in msconfig

I got the cable from a store deemed reputable here in Portugal, and I've had no issues with this cable until now, and I've been using it for almost a year. It is, however, a DP to miniDP cable, as mentioned on the topic you posted, which worries me somewhat. Unfortunately, I have no other DP devices I can use to test if I fried something or not. And what I meant was that the display won't show up on the nVidia control panel, unless it's plugged into this last, and currently, only working, DP.

Hi, I am having a really strange issue whose cause I am absolutely clueless about. I currently have a Cintiq display connected over DisplayPort to my GTX1070. A couple of days ago, I randomly got a "No Signal" on it, and even after unplugging it and plugging it back in, it still wouldn't come back online. I swapped to the second DP port, and it turned back on again, but the port it was originally connected to still won't detect it. Now, the second port is behaving the same way, and I am down to my last port, and neither of the other two show any sign of working. The tablet won't even get picked up on the nVidia control panel when plugged into one of the first two ports. Thoughts? Thanks

Only if it physically restricts your bends

Guess I am calling MS then. Thanks, everyone

My licenses are retail, not OEM. The issue here is something within windows itself, not with the keys I tried that, and it still failed upon activation. I have the creators update as well.

Yes, I am on that machine at this very moment

Hi, So, my motherboard failed and I had to swap it out. Upon returning to windows, I get the dreaded "Activate windows" on the bottom right corner of my screen. Things I have tried so far: Using the troubleshooter's "I recently changed hardware on this device option" Removing my previous machine from my Microsoft account Removing and inserting my key via the command line Trying another, unused retail W10 Pro key, and it still won't activate. As of right now, this is what I see. , Thoughts?

Yes, I am currently in manual voltage mode. I can't shut LLC off completely in this board, I am limited to a minimum of 25% for some reason.

So the experiment didn't work. Regardless of anything, the CPU still overvolts. The only current "fix" is to simply set the target voltage to a lower value to compensate for that offset

I just updated it, and tried with the secondary, un-updated bios again just as a sanity check. I will try clearing cmos and OCing again, I'll get back with some info soon. Thanks so far

Nope, still overvolting, even if VID supp is disabled

LLC doesn't seem to be influencing this, oddly. Whether it's 25 or 75%, the same effect persists.

Hi I just changed motherboard, to an MSI X99A Carbon, and I am redoing the OC I had on my old board on my 6800K. For starters, I have set my Override voltage to 1,29v with a multiplier of 41x. At idle, the VID is 1,29v and the vcore is at its usual lower state, but as soon as I run prime, the voltage shoots past 1,29v and both VID and Vcore go up to 1,35v. What is determining this behavior, and how can I cap it to the override value in all circumstances? Thanks

Hello So, my board randomly stopped POSTing for no apparent reason. It has had some quirks in the past, including similar post issues, but now it appears to be far more serious. Usually, the red CPU LED comes on and it just stays there forever. I’ve seen it turn off after a while sometimes, others the LED won’t come on but it won’t post anyway. And sometimes, very rarely, it will post normally. I highly suspect a mobo issue. I’ve tried pretty much everything short of a different cpu, which I don’t have on hand. Multiple CMOS clears, all combinations of ram sticks, no drives, different power supply and breadboarding have all been done. The bios was updated to the latest version a while back and it’s running a 6800K. Any thoughts? Thanks

Bios update seems to have fixed it. Still can't believe I overlooked that! Thank you

Hello, My PC has been having this strange behaviour for a while now. My system very often boots with half the RAM, and sometimes less, but booting with 16GB is the most common occurence, and only upon rebooting one or two times will the full 32GB display on the task manager. I have tried cranking the RAM voltage up to 1,25 and 1,3v, but to no avail. On some cases, not even the BIOS will display all modules, but this too, is absolutely arbitrary. I have swapped the modules around multiple times and it really doesn't appear to discriminate which ones don't power on correctly. This is kind of an awkward problem to diagnose, so if you have any ideas as to why this might be happening, let me know My specs: i7 6800K Asus X99-E 4x8GB G.Skill Ripjaws V 2400MHz Thanks

That's what I figured too. Well, now I know it's not an isolated case, many thanks!

Plugged mouse back in, everything is still working. Mouse plugged into the USB 2 ports in the back, keyboard and tablet to the USB3 back ones, and headset to the front. Thoughts?

Hello, I am currently experiencing some strange USB problems, and I am in the middle of diagnosing the issue, but if you have some insight on what might be happening I would appreciate your input. For no obvious, but for multiple suspected reasons, my USB devices all shut down randomly within 15 minutes of using the computer and the only way to get them back online is to reboot the machine. At first I thought this was my mouse's fault, as before these full shutdowns happened, it stopped working by itself a few times, and if I unplugged it and plugged it back in, it would come back to life. So, I replaced it with another mouse, waited for a while, and everything ended up collapsing just the same. Then I noticed something weird. It mostly seemed to happen when I entered teamspeak and started using my USB headset. So I unplugged that, and nothing went wrong for about an hour. So, I plugged the USB headset back in, however this time, I didn't plug it to the back of the computer, I used the front panel, and nothing has gone wrong in the past hour as well. So I am left somewhat confused. I still haven't plugged my mouse back in, however. Is it possible that no device is actually shorting, and it's an overload caused by the USB headset in conjunction with all the other hardware? Or is it more likely to be a controller issue? I have quite a few devices plugged into my motherboard, but with the headset plugged into the front panel, everything is still holding up. It might be worth mentioning that I went on vacation and took my peripherals with me, so even though I had everything connected to the back of the motherboard before, I did move the plugs around. My motherboard is an Asus X-99E. While the shorts were happening, what I had plugged in was: Razer Blackwidow Chroma v2 Razer Mamba TE Razer Kraken 7.1 v2 Wacom Cintiq Pro Honestly, I have no clue what's going on. Thanks

Hello I would like to know what is the best option for cooling a mildly overclocked 6800K, for about 50-70$. Thank you

Hello, I would like to know what is the best option too cool a 6800K, that will be overclocked as far as I can take it, in a range of 50 to 100$. Thank you

Yeah sort of forgot that. 6800K.

Hello, I am currently planning a build that will be used for gaming, 3D rendering/sculpting/painting, and heavy 2D work in programs like Photoshop. I am equipping it with 32Gb of ram initially, and will add another 32 if necessary. My current question is, would I notice a performance difference between these two kits? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231964 https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232475&cm_re=Trident_Z_RGB_3000-_-20-232-475-_-Product If I go for the cheaper modules, I will try to overclock them as far as I can, though I imagine CAS will take a hit fairly early on. I will also watercool them, since I will be running a custom loop, so I imagine there will be no heat problems due to overclocking, but before you veto that idea, do note that I will be watercooling the RAM for purely looks, and any cooling benefits will just be an added bonus. Thank you