Laurensvdg

If anyone is still interested: I had a full day of usage and about 5 minutes ago the PC crashed again. I'm gonna send my motherboard back to the vendor in about a week (holiday coming up). Lets hope that fixes it.

That sounds okay to me (the motherboard is 11 months old, so no problem here), but right now its working fine. Usually failed motherboards are broken all the time and not only a few times a day, or am I wrong? Is there any way i can troubleshoot this without replacing the motherboard?

I changed nothing. The GPU has only been in the system for 3 weeks and i upgraded the cooler from a small noctua one to a big aio, but the aio and GPU have been running well in a different system for over a year. The problems started out of nowhere. Btw: without any youtube fullscreen videos the system has been up for almost 40 minutes without any crashes

Hey people, I just ran into some VERY strange problems with my system. Earlier today my screen went totally black while watching a youtube vid in chrome. The reset button and pressing the power button on my pc didn't do anything and all the fans were still spinning. After turning off the power supply I was finally able to reboot but ran into the same problem a few minutes later. I started monitoring ASUS AI suite 3 because i thought some part of my pc might be overheating (at this point i had removed every overclock in the bios and even turned my ram back to auto from it's usual 3200 mhz frequency...) I was able to record these strange numbers on my phone. Naturally i resstarted the pc and everything went back to normal... I had another crash after watching a bitwit video in fullscreen, but somehow after a restart ( with turning off the power supply since the power button did not work) it's working again I'm writing from this wierd pc right now and really hopw someone can tell me what the problem might be... Parts: Strix b450i ryzen 5 2600x some gskill ripjaws 3200 kit (16 gigs) samsung 970 evo strix 1070 ti corsair SF600 I updated to the latest bios some time between the first and third crash ; all the settings are set to asus default i'm cooling the CPU with a 240 mm aio and... basically i want to know if my MOBO or my PSU is toast or if everything is kinda alright sorry for the bad english and spelling. I'm in a hurry because this PC might crash again ?

Thx for the advice I was thinking about a 20 bucks windows 10 pro key. Linux is still a bit scary

Thanks a lot I really like the look of the portal chassis, but i will definitly give the fractal cases some consideration! Since the pc is going to be in the living room i just wanted to go with something "special" with no windows and no cube-pc look, but the drawbacks of that round shape seem to be pretty bad...

The main idea was to just leave it on all the time... It wont stream to many devices; Only my pc and probably my brothers stuff, so... maybe 3 devices at the same time atmost. I don't expect more than 10 gigs of read per day. It would mostly be straight to a pc; in some very weird events it might be to an ipad or TV (but not regularly). I thought the 2600x would be plenty to handle the transcoding and never thought of GPU transcoding before to be honest...

Hi people! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor $209.89 @ OutletPC CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-D9L 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler $51.84 @ Newegg Motherboard Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard $131.99 @ Newegg Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $144.99 @ Newegg Storage Crucial - MX500 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $84.89 @ OutletPC Storage Seagate - IronWolf 8TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $239.89 @ OutletPC Storage Seagate - IronWolf 8TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $239.89 @ OutletPC Video Card EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card $165.89 @ OutletPC Case BitFenix - Portal (White) Mini ITX Tower Case $136.98 @ SuperBiiz Power Supply Corsair - SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply $85.43 @ OutletPC Case Fan NoiseBlocker - NB-ELoop B12-P 77.9 CFM 120mm Fan Case Fan NoiseBlocker - NB-ELoop B12-P 77.9 CFM 120mm Fan Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1521.68 Mail-in rebates -$30.00 Total $1491.68 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-16 08:07 EDT-0400 This is what I thought might be a very capable HTPC on which i could store all my Blurays and stuff and could also do some light gaming on. I am planning to buy most of the parts next month when black friday sales HOPEFULLY lower that price to a more adequate level Most of the Parts are still subject to change since i don't know if i will be able to get any good deals on them (for example the cpu - the ryzen 5 2600 seems more reasonable right now, but last year they sold both the 1600 and the 1600x for 143€ on mindfactory...) What I'm really unsure about is the gpu (are all 1050 tis created equal and i just chose the cheapest?) and the harddrives. I tried to find an answer, but most people who talk about NAS harddrives probably do more than watch 2-3 movies a week. I don't know if I really need my harddrives to be helium-filled and i highly doubt that they are going to be under any stress if i just want to store 150 blurays and occasionally watch one of them, so a reality check would be highly appreciated. Btw. : I have a Strix 1070 ti in my main pc and want to swap it over to the HTPC once there is a better upgrade option than the rtx 2080. Will the 450 watt PSU be enough? I used the BeQuiet PSU calculator which said something like 380 Watts onder load with a light overclock, but the outervision calculator told me to get a 1000 Watt PSU I hope you guys can help me a little with the part selection. Thank you in advance

Hey Andrew, thank you for your reply ! The Lian Li Manual said, that there is 50mm pace behind the opening in the right chamber. Someone on youtube even said, that you could mount a 30mm rad and normal 25 mm fans on it and "it would just fit" - so i am not really worried about the rad fitting in. Also, the opening is 120mm wide , so it should be wide enough to fit the rad in comfortably... Thank you for your input on the Fans tho! I was just worried because the Rad is twice as thick as the corsair Aio rads :-/ But Paul used them in his latest build on 60mm rads, so it's probably going to be fine... EDIT: I just checked the Lian Li - Page and the technical drawings of 1070 ti waterblocks (from EK) It seems like a width of about 140 mm is still okay without a vertical mount or moddig... The waterblock for the 1070 ti is only 127,7 mm wide, so there would be no problem mounting it horizontally. Lian Li compatibility List 1070 ti waterblock technical Drawing 1080 ti waterblock technical drawing (for reference since the lian li page is missing the 1070 ti block)

Hey people, since Europe is slowly turning into Mordor and the temps in my flat are up to 38°C during the day, I decided to build my first ever open Loop. I am pretty much set on getting the Lian Li o11 Dynamic (I REALLY like it's looks) and want to go the soft-tubing route since I am a bit nervous There are still a few questions that the usual YouTube videos (JayzTwoCents, Linus and others) couldn't really answer, so I figuered i'd ask you guys Currently I'm running an Intel 7700k oc'd to 5.0 Ghz, cooled with a Corsair H100i V2 with 2 noctua NF-F12 inside a Phanteks P4oo TG. I bought an Asus Strix 1070ti earlier this year and even with all dials put on maximum in the OC software i cannot get it to heat up more than 35°C above ambient, so i'm not planning on adding a GPU block until i upgrade my GPU. After looking at some offers, i decided to get an Alphacool Eissturm kit with a 45 mm thick 360 rad (It's 25% cheaper than the EKWB offer and has a bigger Res and Rad) and i'm planning to put the Radiator in the right chamber of my Case. This is where the Questions start: 1) Is it possible to have the ports on a vertical Radiator at the bottom without trapping a lot of air in it's tubes? 2) Will Corsair LL120s be able to provide enough airflow over such a thick rad? (They are on sale right now and cost 50% less than the noctua NF-A 12 i originally wanted to buy) 3) If I were to add a temperature probe into the loop, would my Mainboard (Strix z270F ) be able to use the 12 Ohm input to regulate fanspeed in it's software? 4) If i were to use the Top-Inlet on the Pump-Res combo (there is only a single inlet on the res), how could i fill the loop without spilling tons of liquid?! 5) I'm planning to add a Y-Splitter for the pump outlet, put a Valve with plug on one side and the rest of the loop on the other side so i have a proper drain-port. - Did i miss anything ? And lastly, but probably a little Off-topic : Do you guys think 3 Nf-F12 at the bottom of the case would provide enough airflow to Potentially get positive air pressure if i decide to add a GPU block and another 360 Rad top? (So 6 * LL120 pushing air out through Radiators, opposed to 3 NF-F 12 pushing air into the case - not at the same speed, but rather at the same Noise-level?) I hope you guys can give me some insight into those subjects Greetings from Germany! The kit i'm planning to buy

The updated version looks... wierd 1st: Getting a single stick of memory is a good decision if you want to upgrade within the next few months. BUT Since Ryzen is highly dependant on good memory speeds, i don't get why you'd go for a 8g 2400 stick. I dont know if that stuff is OC-able, but just to be sure, i would buy the 3000 Mhz stick. And since you dont want to upgrade: GET TWO STICKS (8 gig is enough for most games right now, but if you want to be future-proof for the next few years, i would go for 16 gigs) 2nd: When you were planning on buying the 1600x, spending 50 bucks on a better mobo seemed good (thats like... 15% of the CPU price... not that much), but with a ryzen 1400?! Get a budget b350 mobo. ALSO: You've still got the 230$ for the 1600 in your calculation. 3rd: You are saying, that you want a mobo that can OC better than the b350 tomahawk. There are probably 3 or 4 models that OC better, all of which cost 100 bucks more. Spending more for a mobo that can OC better is not going to be worth it for you ; Ryzen only OCs to 4Ghz anyways... Silicon-lottery will have more impact... 4th: The 480 8g is, in my understanding, much better for higher resolutions than the 1060. I mean, it's your decision, but i would not go for the graphics card that might be better in some games right now, but is probably gonna be worse in 1 years time... (you are also buying a ryzen CPU, hoping, that games and stuff will use the higher core-count in the future and that it will still be fast enough in a few years... they might also be working better with an AMD GPU, who knows?! ) 5th: The EKWB supremacy evo is not that much better than the supremacy MX (most people say its about 1°C). I have never built a custom loop, but your seems REALLY expensive for what it's supposed to cool (also an extra slim 360 rad wont be enough for Graphics card and CPU on high overclocks). The EKWB l series kit has a "normal" 360 rad included which might be enough. JayTwoCents always says : "120 per component, 240 if you want to OC", which seems pretty legit, since you use a 240 slim rad for AIO water coolers... The liquid series kit with a Graphics card monoblock should cost about 500 dollars, which still is a lot, considering that the components in your PC cost about 1000$. (and is has 3 vardar fans included!) Ps. The 300$ ryzen chips do give you better value than the 1000$ chips by intel, but so do some of intels chips! The ryzen 5 1600x is probably going to be worse than the 7600k in gaming, but better in content creation, but it will never ever overclock as well as the intel chip! Same goes for cheaper alternatives... Bottomline: A 250$ ryzen wont GENERALLY perform like a 700$ intel chip, in some cases it might, in others it will be worse than a 200$ intel chip.

okay boi, no let me tell you where you are wrong: is like saying :" My blue car is too slow, i'm gonna buy a red one!" M.2 is a form factor, not some faster form SSDs. You have to buy a NVME drive, which generally costs 100-200$ more, to get higher speeds (linus has 3 or 4 videos on it.. the "NVME as fast as possible" one is the best one IMO) Look at the sequential write/read speeds and Iops, those tell you how fast the SSD is going to be, not the form factor. Go for a 500 gb Samsung EVO 850 (which is faster than the M.2 thingy you picked), or get an NVME drive (like the samsung evo 960 or pro 960 or something similar) Ps. If you want really really high Overclocks, the b350 tomahawk, might not be the best choice. not saying that it's bad (i'm actually going to buy it myself), but dont expect overclocks beyond 4.0 GHz with any Ryzen processor. Afaik some people got 4.1 on the asus crosshair VI, but thats clearly not worth it, considering the MB costs 100$ more than the msi one...but a slightly better board with 2 M.2 slots, SLI compatibility, better sound stuff and possibly RGB (i mean... 700$ for cooling but cheaping out on RGB?! :-P), like the MSI x370 gaming pro carbon or the ASUS prime pro something thing might be worth considering. Pps. I DO understand why you want to Watercool the whole thing, but i'd consider watercooling the processor first and waiting for a "probably better priced Rx Vega" before spending another 200-300$ on cooling a 200$ card. The EK performance kit with 360 rad would be a great place to start Other than that: Looks like a cool project! Have fun building it and make sure nothing leaks over your hardware

totally correct you could probably go for a corsair rm750x or rm650x PSU which costs just about 12€ more and is quiet and stuff... ALSO: the gaming pro carbon motherboard generally costs about 190€ in germany (and probably the netherlands as well)... amazon prices are a bit high right now. considering that: the 21:9 monitor just came a lot closer btw: it's totally legal to buy OEM versions of windows in europe. You can get them for 1/10 if the normal price.

The "blueprint" shows, that anything thats more than 3,6 cm away from your socket can be as high as you want. Getting ram thats less than 20 mm tall will never happen, so the space below the fan will never be enough. The cooler-fins start at 40mm hight, so the LED ram (49mm high) will never ever be able to fit under the fan, unless you decide to mount it at least 3 cm higher, resulting in a 19-20 cm high cooler combo. I would go for LPX ram and invest the saved money into a dark rock pro 3 --> It should cover up most of the visual parts

Thanks a lot for the reply! The system you suggested does have a mechanical drive tho, so i would still swap that out for a larger ssd (i dont even need that much storage anyways) and the noctua cooler is definitly better, but it's ugly Is it worth spending another 50€ on a better motherboard und getting a cheaper PSU and slower ram? I thought AMD was going to provide support for faster ram in a not-so-distant future and the X370 chipset is mainly used for SLI and Crossfire and does not really improve performance, compared to a b350 mainboard?