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chiller15

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  • Posts

    528
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Birmingham, UK
  • Occupation
    IT Technician

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-9700K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z390M-GAMING Pro
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4
  • GPU
    ASUS STRIX GTX1080 O11G Gaming
  • Case
    Corsair Carbide Air 240
  • Storage
    1x 256GB Samsung 970 Evo M.2 NVMe 1x 120GB Samsung EVO 840. 1x 3TB Dell 7,200RPM, 1x 2TB Western Digital 7,200RPM. 1x 1TB Western Digital 7,200RPM
  • PSU
    Corsair HX 750W Modular
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2417DG
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H60 (2018)
  • Keyboard
    Microsoft Wireless Desktop 2000
  • Mouse
    Logitech G703 Wireless
  • Sound
    Creative T20
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 x64
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. I have just played through System Shock (2023) and while playing it, noticed that my Nvidia RTX 3080 FE fans were at pretty much 100% throughout the whole game, with some RPM variations. Playing through at 1440p all max settings, my GPU was at pretty much 99% utilisation throughout. While I understand that that sort of utilisation is going to produce all the heat and necessitate the GPU fans to kick in - it just didn't seem to match what I was visually seeing. I don't know enough about the remake of System Shock, is it a modern game made to look older as a design choice, or did they take an older game remaster it with new assets. The 3080 FE fans are known to be quite loud and annoying, but I was concered that if this is a lower performance game - am I suffering other issues that would explain the fan usage. I decided to run a TimeSpy Extreme benchmark run and got a score of 7133 overall, which is some 5% lower than the average score of this CPU/GPU combination at 7528 and some 18% lower than the best score (I know I don't have the other components or cooling to get near that). Graphics score: 8698 CPU score: 3532 PC specs: Asus TUF Z390M-PRO Gaming WIFI Intel Core i7-9700K @ 4.5GHz Corsair H115i Pro RGB 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4-2666MHz (2x 8GB) Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080 FE 256GB Samsung 970 Pro NVMe Corsair RM750X Gold 750W Results: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 video card benchmark result - Intel Core i7-9700K Processor,ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. TUF Z390M-PRO GAMING (WI-FI) (3dmark.com) CPU max frequency - 4653 MHz CPU average frequency - 4395 MHz CPU max temperature - Not reported CPU average temperature - 51C GPU max clock frequency - 1935 MHz GPU average frequency - 1766 MHz GPU max memory frequency - 1333 MHz GPU average memory frequency - 1333 MHz GPU max temperature - 69C (nice) GPU average temperature - 45C Even though my GPU is running at stock speeds, I don't understand why I'm 5% lower than the average score, if my thermals and frequencies all appear to be good enough. Maybe I'm overthinking this, but I thought I'd rather post here and check, even if it is to give me some piece of mind.
  2. I ended up getting the Razer Basilisk V3 Pro instead after being gifted an Amazon voucher that I could put towards it. It's about the same size and for me, a slightly better ergonomic fit with the thumb groove. It doesn't have the removeable weight that the Logitech does, but it has a bigger battery, a USB C charging portand what seems to be a better build quality. I am pleased with my purchase thus far.
  3. I decided not to purchase and see if anything is announced at Computex this week. I'm not in an urgent rush for a replacement, not at least for the next few months anyway. I think I was leading with my wallet rather than my head when I made the post.
  4. I want to replace my 24" Dell S2417DG with something newer, though I've recently been playing games connected to my LG C1 OLED and been spoilt by the brilliant image of OLED, with it's deep blacks and HDR. However, couch gaming doesn't offer my the same level of immersion that desk gaming does, even if I use my keyboard/mouse. Therefore I'd like to get the best of both worlds, having a somewhat HDR gaming experience on my desk. While I won't be playing at 4K anymore (I have a 3080, though likely won't be upgrading until the 50 series comes out), the Cooler Master Tempest GP27Q seems to tick all the right boxes, fast enough refresh rate, actual HDR with 576 full array local dimming, good colour accuracy and response times. It's also within my ~£500 price bracket I've allocated myself. However, a couple of things are bugging me and it's delayed me purchasing it so far: I know that the monitor has had bugs and firmware has fixed most of these. I've watched Hardware/Monitors Unboxed's videos, though I think another new firmware has been released since they released their updated video. Has anyone got any updates? What is the main competitor in terms of image quality/HDR and price? While 576 zones provides a true HDR experience, obiously more zones = better. However, I can't seem to find more information about upcoming higher refresh rate, high FALD zone count, 1440p monitors. A monitor is what tends to last the longest on my system, though I've never used any Cooler Master products and I don't know what their quality is like. Can anyone expand on their experience if they own this monitor, or other Cooler Master products? Does anyone know what Cooler Master's warranty experience is like? If I'm likely to have this monitor for at least the next five years, am I shooting myself in the foot by it only being 1440p? I probably have more questions, I just can't think of them at the moment.
  5. I've got the RAM in slots A and C, which are the traditional dual channel configurations. Using one stick or no sticks at all doesn't change the behaviour. Both the CPU and RAM modules (CMK32GX5M2B5600C36) are listed as compatible products. Update: Using RAM slots A and B made it post after about 30-40 seconds. Update 2: Checking the manual states the recommended RAM slots used as B/D for dual channel and B for single. Using slots B/D allowed for a sucessful boot. Clearly this was a case of RTFM and my old knowledge of using slots A/C! Edit: Thanks for the assist @191x7
  6. Thans, I found that in the manual minutes after posting, but was waiting until the process completed before posting! Sadly, flashing with the latest (non-beta) BIOS didn't work, I still have the same LEDs and no display.
  7. They are definately the 7900X, not the 3D. The board does have a flash BIOS button above the rear IO, though I'm not sure how since I have no display output.
  8. I'll start off this thread with the fact that I am an experienced IT techie...but that doesn't mean I haven't done something stupid or overlooked something! In my workplace, we have bought 2x systems for our professional workload: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X Motherboard: MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI RAM: 23GB (2x 16GB) Corsair Vengeance 5600MHz CL36 Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 PSU: Montech 80+ Gold 650W Storage: 1TB Samsung 980 Pro with heatsink Both systems are experiencing the exact same issue - not posting, with the CPU LED red and the RAM LED amber on the motherboard (which means the board hasn't detected the CPU and RAM according to the manual). Troubleshooting steps I've performed: Removed all but the CPU, cooler, RAM and PSU Removed the RAM - no beeps to complain that RAM isn't installed Reseated the RAM Reseated the CPU Checked for damage in the LGA socket and also on the CPU itself Ensured that the CPU has enough thermal paste Used just the 8-pin power Used the 8+4 pin power I'm currently at a loss as to what the issue could be. I don't know if the CPU is receiving power or not and currently don't have another PSU to try.
  9. Working in education, I'd love to buy and deploy these to students...however the easily removable modules (while excellent) would be a nightmare to keep on top of when students mess around and remove/steal them. It'd be great if there was an option to have the modules fitted internally and secured by a screwed on back plate. While not infallible, it'd keep the modularity aspect, so schools can choose their spec level and have a stock of spares or other modules for other educational requirements/scenarios.
  10. Thanks for your reply. I'll have a look at the Razer line up. It's just annoying that I can't try them out before buying them.
  11. I'm on my second G703 mouse now, after the first was replaced due to double clicking issues. The replacement has also developed the same issue, though I am now outside of the warranty period. From my understanding, the double-clicking issue is a predominant issue across most of Logitech's G range. It's gotten so bad now, that it's making me not want to use the computer because it's frustrating, so I'm now considering a replacement mouse.. The reasons I chose the G703 in the first place was for the size/shape, weight, responsiveness, relatively few buttons and the notched scroll wheel. I like the notched/tactile bumps of a scroll wheel and very much don't like the infinate scrolls of some other mice. I summary, I'm after: Wireless mouse with responsive connectivity for non-competitive gaming Similar size and weight to the G703 5 buttons (left, right, scroll, back and forward) - I am not into a mutli-function mouse with many re-programmable buttons, for both asthetic reasons and also mis-clicking on buttons I don't/won't use Notched scroll wheel From what I've gathered, Logitech's new G502 range don't have the doubel clicking issue and are also USB-C, but I don't like the multi-button design. Ideally, I'd like to try before I buy, but there's a lack of big-box stores that have even a handful of gaming mice these days (at least near me anyway). There's such a wealth of information about mice that it's almost overwhelming when trying to research and decide on a new mouse, especially when it's something you feel.
  12. Thanks again, I'll look into those. What about having the headphones connected to the jack in the TV or controller? Would that be a significantly worse audio experience?
  13. Thanks for the replies, I was thinking along the same lines, but my technical knowledge on the subject is quite limited and I've now got a lot more understanding. I've added an additional question into the original post, to question the front panel audio connector. So plugging the headphones into the speakers shouldn't particularly reduce the audio quality compared to directly into the motherboard? The speakers are on the crap end, but I rarely use them. Usually it's headphones or the TV's speakers. I simply can't afford at the moment to go all out on a nice audio setup...so I'm just trying to make best use with what I've already got at hand.
  14. Browser, version and OS: Chrome 101.0.4951.54 - Windows 10 21H2 Steps to reproduce/what were you doing before it happened? Navigating my account settings and enabling backup codes for my account. What happened? Generated the backup codes, which showed in the box (and I can copy and paste). I pressed the print icon to print/save it as a PDF and the print preview shows no codes, just a blank page with the Home icon, LTT logo and menu button along the top of the page and the URL and page number at the bottom of the page. Saving the PDF and printing the document does not include the backup codes. What did you expect to happen? The PDF to contain the backup codes for saving elsewhere. Link to a page where it happened, if applicable: https://linustechtips.com/settings/account-security/?act=enable&type=backup_codes&new=1&csrfKey= I have omitted the key from the URL. Screenshots of the issue, if applicable: Any other relevant details: N/A If it's a cloudflare error, what was the ray ID from the bottom of the error page? N/A
  15. I'm looking at my audio setup and I'm not sure I fully understand it fully to make a decision on things. I have an ASUS TUF Z390M-PRO Gaming WIFI and a pair of cheap Creative T10 2.0 speakers. When using headphones (Sennheiser HD 599 SE), I am plugging them into the headphone jack on the speakers. Am I right in thinking that the motherboard's rear IO is the built-in DAC and the speakers are an additional amplifier in that scenario? I don't get any nasty audio quality (at least to my ears) such as hisses and stuff from them, so I'm not sure if an external DAC is necessary? Or if I got one, I presume the perceived difference would be minimal to my non-audiophile ears? My other questions are regarding plugging the headphones into other peripherals: If I connect my PC to the TV (LG C1) over HDMI, which transmits the video and audio over HDMI...if I plug the headphones into the headphone jack on the TV...is that using the same DAC as the on-board audio, or does my TV deal with both the conversion and amplification then? I have the same question regarding plugging into my Xbox One controller via it's headphone jack, when I have that connected wirelessly via the Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows What about connecting via the front panel audio jack? Does that route through the same on-board DAC, or is that a separate, crappier thing? I hope that all makes sense?
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