oscar7601

Thanks, I'd rather have used a Windows software but HP Smart did the trick. Having to create an account to be able to scan with that software is totally ridiculous though...

Hi everyone, Surely there is a way to get Windows 10's included softwares to scan and then merge several pages into one PDF. But I haven't found out how to do that yet. My printer is an HP B010a. HP's software is absolute bull**** and can't even see the printer (it's looking for it on the network while this printer is USB only ) I would much rather use an included software of Windows 10 but until now I have only found this telecopy software which doesn't let me scan to PDF (I cannot choose PDF in the format drop-down list). And the official Windows scanning software I downloaded from the Microsoft store does not offer the option to merge several pages at all. How am I supposed to do this please? (NB : in the screenshot below, the bottom greyed-out text is the option I would like to tick, to merge several pages into one single PDF, but as you can see, I cannot set the file format to PDF)

Hi, Thank you for your reply. I can't see any unused audio device in the device manager. I do use my front panel headphone jack from time to time, and my screen's DAC is what my speakers are plugged into. Here is a screenshot of the DM's window : I have also checked in the task manager but the only softwares I have disabled at startup are Spotify, Steam and Cortana.

Then your VGA cable is the bottleneck. VGA does not support Full HD (1920x1080). Not sure about its maximum resolution but it's definitely below your target. You ought to change for a DisplayPort cable or HDMI. PS : I suppose the "recommended resolution" is just what the HDMI to VGA adapter is pretending its resolution is (what it tells the computer to output by default). It does not "tell" your PC to output 1080p by default because it would be useless. Just like telling the computer to output 4K only to have the signal downscaled (this might not be the appropriate word for the process) to a very low resolution would be pretty useless.

Why would you care about the recommendation anyway when you clearly know what resolution you are targeting? Is your monitor plugged into your computer via a VGA cable instead of DisplayPort or HDMI?

Well... It could affect the range and speed if the metal inside the monitor interferes with the electromagnetic field created by your WiFi router. But that's just theory. I'd say unless you are really on the edge of losing connection to the router already in some parts of your home, this should not make a very big difference.

I'd be tempted to tell you to try to underclock lower the power going to the GPU, just to see if the same components are able to pass the same "stress test" (doing the same rendering with the same settings in Adobe Premiere) with only the GPU clock (and thus power hunger) lowered. This can be very easily done and undone. You just need a software like MSI Afterburner (FYI it doesn't matter if your GPU is not of the MSI brand ). Set the power limit waaay down and try to run your demanding render again. If the same computer successfully passes the test then it would probably narrow the issue down to either being the PSU or maaaaybe (but realistically unlikely) a GPU requiring more voltage to keep stable under heavy load, in the case of quite heavy sillicon degradation (after being used for mining with non-conservative settings for example, but this is really unlikely IMHO) FYI : Setting the power limit down will effectively diminish the power set available for the GPU, which will in turn lower its running speed accordingly. So the render may take a bit longer to run.

It very well could come from a bad PSU but I think we should rule out all of the other possibilities before ever talking someone into throwing (potentially good) hardware in the bin. Plus, a stock 2600 and an RX580 really are not demanding components to power.

Is your computer reasonably clean inside? No huge piles of dust? What you describe looks like instability to me. This usually should not occur in a stock configuration except if there are serious thermal issues.

I suppose you have not overclocked anything in the system?

Hello everyone, This really could be the definition of "the smallest annoyance" as it simply takes a click and a scroll to solve every time but I'm going to ask you to try and help me solve it anyway! I have noticed that my computer has the sound volume set to zero every time it boots. So I have to manually set it back to the required volume but then it is set back to zero at the next reboot. Is there a setting I should check or uncheck to disable this behavior? Thank you in advance.

Well tbh the only PSUs I've ever had issues with were 2 Seasonic and this series on Phanteks Revolt X. Never been bothered by problems when using LEPA, EVGA or Corsair... Of course, this is by no means representative of these brands' product quality in general but still I can't get around how unreliable these Phanteks PSUs have been until now. The first one stopped responding to power switches. The second one had the same problem but only with one of the power switches. This one is the third and the EPS 12V of the second system is giving 0.15V instead of 12V...

Well it's by no means Caseking's fault if Phanteks can't make a reliable unit... The unit I'm sending back today was sent to me in September 2020 ! It's not even 6 months old and it is already faulty... Plus it really isn't heavily sollicited : the NAS is only a Ryzen 2600, a GT710 2GB and 5 drives (!!!)

Well because I bought it once and it's covered with a 12 year warranty. Also, AFAIK it's the only PSU on the market that can power two systems (without using Phanteks' EOL PSU splitter) That's what I thought... I just called Caseking whom I bought it from and they're sending me a shipping label to return it once again. I can't express how perfect the quality of service of Caseking has been managing these multiple RMAs though. Really an incredibly reliable seller.

Hello everyone, I'm already on my third Phanteks Revolt X PSU, the two first ones have been taken under warranty because they would not respond to power switch buttons anymore. It's the 1200W version. I'm having trouble with it (again) but this time it's different. My first system (the gaming system) works perfectly fine. But the second one (my NAS) "starts" (fans start spinning) when I press the power switch but the system has no display and it won't turn off when pressing the power switch for a few seconds. I just tested the system with a spare PSU and it works just fine with the other PSU. So I went back to the Phanteks Revolt X with my multimeter and noticed that it only sends 0.15V to the EPS 12V cable of the second system. Do you have an idea of an easy fix that would not void my warranty? Thank you in advance.