Dlog

Put your hands on the disk when you connect it, does it spin up and down constantly? If so look at this https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Fix-the-33V-Pin-Issue-in-White-Label-Disks-/ I had heard some of the Reds act like white labels.

SuperNT / Pi / and emulation are cool but ... the MiSTer FPGA project needs some love. Dig Luke out from FP for this pixel perfect retro gaming evolution. Open source, open hardware, ~$130 for an FPGA retro console.

I did something similar not to long ago, ended up not liking it and going with a network attached tuner as it's super simple to use with Plex. For your issue look here https://www.reddit.com/r/unRAID/comments/8w8dzx/hauppauge_wintv_quadhd_4xtv_tuner_unraid/ I had to do similar and played around with different drivers until it worked in plex.

Kotatsu type computer desk heated by i9-7980xe on some kind of radiator. Potential for best winter pc desk imo. https://www.ebay.com/p/Square-Kotatsu-Table-Heater-Top-Reversible-White-60x60cm-From-Japan/2130111045? iid=153085467840

If your only doing gigabit go with whatever it's all irrelevant unless your running cable directly over power cables and lights etc. I'm still running el-cheapo Cat5e in my walls for my home gigabit, no issues here. I only see a 10gigabit upgrade for a single connection from my NAS to my computer, the rest of the house is fine on gigabit for the next 10 years or so. Speed is mostly irrelevant, enjoy 1ms through fiber, Cat5e or Cat6 over a distance of whatever you pull in your house to whatever in your house. Throughput is limited anyway to your network adapter. Side note: Save yourself some time on the project and pick up a $30 magnet puller. Getting wires to go down walls is a pain, this works a ton better than fiberglass rods. Best thing in the world for your insulated walls. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Magnetic-Wire-Pulling-System-SRS56037/206826202

Instead of full on VM why not docker?

All I did was change out the bad kit pump from the A240g for this new D5 one and take out the 240 rad. Turns out I was wrong, temps were in the same range of ~58-60c before (dug out an old picture https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_p1t2IspE0QNVZrR0d2bFRrQTQ/view) Not bad I guess when nuking the GPU and CPU at the same time. Edit the temp is both GPU/CPU on same loop maxed out CPU alone is ~50-53C

Coollaboratory Liquid Pro, just bought everything Rockit Cool had in the store to delid / relid. Generic arctic silver for IHS to CPU block.

My loop is hitting the CPU second tho, not sure if that factors in. I swear it was around 54c before all this with the A240g kit's pump. I did have a second radiator tho a 240 and a 360. I cut the 240 out to free up some space figuring the 360 would be fine with the 1080 and 7700k. I only really play WoW, transcode with handbreak, and play whatever's on sale on steam.

No that was with the powersuppply jummpered, pump at 100%. The sound went away over night (trapped air i guess?) With everything leak tested I connected everything up, temps seem ok but the CPU is a bit warmer than normal 63C under CPU burner (7700k delided at stock boosting to 4.5). Probably going to tear down and check the CPU block might be some blockage.

May have spoken too soon, dosn't seem like the pump is pushing correctly. Sound is 90% solved but water dosn't look like it's moving right.

Got it after taking it apart one more time and just doing a loop back it's working. Thanks all

https://imgur.com/a/aHR2g don't see any large issues. The ring holding the pump on was a bit loose. noticed some serious fluid movment after putting it back together. Still makes that same sound. Seemed to drown out a bit as I tilted the case this time. But returned again quickly.

Since this is pump #2 for me and Raid night is tomorrow I'll go ahead and tear it down to see what I get. Back in a few.

it's at 100% the power supply is jumppered right now and the pump is hooked up with no PWM control. I'm at the leak testing point and just trying to get thing sorted. I've spun this thing on all ends that don't let the pump run dry it still makes that sound and water dosn't seem to move. I was under the impression that the D5 was about 3x the flow rate of my old ddc pump.

Pump doesn't seem to be pushing anything and makes a funky sound. Brand new preassembled D5 pump/res. Is it bad or am I missing something?

Out of about each pool of 100 we have 1-2 drives fail per year. 2% annual failure rate. We also have a fairly good warranty replacement program to replace drives that fail within 24hrs during weekdays and have a few spares on hand. NetApp dosn't play around with replacing parts. Expensive but pretty darn reliable.

It's a huge question so I'll just take a small bite of it. https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-failure-rates-q1-2017/ is the answer for HDD failure rates and what to expect per make / model. Even with highly rated enterprise drives you should expect some failure within the first month or so. Manufacturing defects are a thing and the more drives you have the higher the likelihood of you finding one. We have a few hundred enterprise grade Segates in a few raids and we see about one to 2 go out per year.

Unplug everything important when lightning comes round. My house has had 1 lighting hit and 2 near hits in the last 10 years. A UPS is great for balancing out power spikes and brown outs but a direct hit to your house will nuke any UPS. I had a 1000VA UPS that cost me ~$1000 back in the day protecting my NAS in a closet and a smaller UPS for my gaming PC. Lightning stuck my house (watched arks jump from my lighting fixture to GFC plugs in the bathroom). The surge killed both UPSs the motherboards of each system behind it and about half of my houses electrical (Stove, AC, Washer/dryer, Computers, modems, switches, Roku, ps3, etc...) All of my devices were behind a decent $20+ well rated surge protector. Additionally the hit conducted through my modem to the connection point street side where it blew the connector end to bits, Cable guy said it's built to do that to protect everything behind it. My near hits only fried a mouse, modem, microwave, SNES and a fan. The strike was somewhere between my neighbor's bathroom and my gaming room. Electricity jumped from a desk high socket to my arm through my mouse and shut my computer off (luckily it turned on but my mouse was toast). Funny side story I had just had a nuclear scan done earlier that day and could be technically considered as someone radioactive that got stuck by lightning (no powers ). TLDR: When lighting hits directly nothing will stop it, from taking a dump on your equipment. A good sine wave ups is worth the cost to protect you from nasty power instability in older homes but If you love it and are prone to lightning strikes unplug. (side story, i actually had a full aluminum laptop near a socket with the big hit that got fried, wasn't even plugged in) Make sure you have lighting coverage in your insurance if you are truly worried I had a1k deductible and a 16k payout for replacement. Edit: my recommendation https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cyberpower-1325va-sine-wave-battery-back-up-system-black/4961801.p?skuId=4961801

I bought my Dad an OnHub to solve a problem similar to yours. It worked quite well and he was able to set it up with just his phone and limited old man brain. Don't expect to be able to configure in any complex way, these are kinda locked down to grandpa mode setup (look up pictures of the UI and settings). I usualy recomend Ubiquity access points and a wired only router. The AP's can chain together with any old cat5e or better. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B017MD6CHM/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505947573&sr=1-18&keywords=ubiquiti they are pretty cheap but probably not a good fit for your situation as you likely need a new router all together. I wouldn't trust a router to hold out after a major component failed. TLDR pick up the OnHub while it's on sale it's a good value at that price.

I think your mixing up some numbers here. Megabit per second and Megabyte per second are two different things. 8 bits to a byte so 10 megabit per second transfers at 1.25 megabytes per second. Good sync reads in MBps and ISPs like to advertise Mbps, its a difference of dividing by 8. MBps: Megabyte per second vs Mbps Megabit per second So if you have a 16 Megabit connection from Comcast it's capable of (16/8 = ) 2 Megabytes per second transfer rate max. Latency, distant end communication and load on local ISP resources play into this. Also check your router to see if you have some kind of Quality of service feature turned on, most routers will slow uploads by a percentage to keep congestion down for other users. IE the default QOS setting on my Ubiquity router holds me back about 10% when doing a speed test.

consider talking to a NetApp rep. Side note I would be interested to see what NetApp data deduplication does with security footage. it's block by block so might end up saving you a ton of space. With static weekly server backups we see about 8:1 dedupe rate.

First thing first, not all cable modems talk the same way over cable. DOCSIS 3 – 3.1 was a huge leap involving 4096 QAM and narrower channels. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOCSIS If your area only supports 4096 QAM and offers GiG up and down speeds you should thank your lucky stars and buy exactly what your ISP states is compatible. It may be that they never fully implemented the additional equipment to fully support 3 at full speed and simply jumped to 3.1 in your area. If you look at Netgears site you see that the two modems being recommended support DOCSIS 3.1 32x8 kanaanbundeling and that your modem only supports DOCSIS 3 32x8 Channel Bonded. DOCSIS 3.0 caps out at 1.2 gigabit over 32 channels so 37.5ish megabit per channel, if your ISP only offers 7-8 channels on the old DOCISIS 3 standard to your house that’s 262.5 -300 megabit. Accounting for less than optimal usage in your area, I can see this as what you are getting. Either your ISP is offering fewer channels for 3.0 and all the channels for 3.1 or they misconfigured some stuff. Look at the UI for your modem and see how many channels are connected. Secondly, I need you to understand what Title 2 actually is. With the FCC vote coming up it’s more important than ever. Simply having incompatible hardware or technical misunderstandings doesn’t = FCC violation. Seriously do some research on this write a letter to your representative etc, it’s important. Thirdly, what is your network layout? Your original statement was that you had a 10gig router, the router you reference is just shy of pulling a full gig downstream (https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16825124013) with gigabit ports on the inside. The 1.9 advertised here is some fancy marketing mumbo jumbo for aggregated wifi speeds that no one gets or cares about. (fancy math in the product description AC1900 - 600 Mbps 2.4GHz with 256 QAM support +1300 Mbps @ 5GHz 11ac) If your 10 gig NIC on your computer isn’t connecting to a 10 Gig switch or something that can use it or a lower standard (5,2 etc), then for all intents and purposes it’s a gigabit NIC. TLDR: buy an approved modem (compatability is likely an issue), look up Network Neutrality and Title 2 because it’s days from going by by and we need a law passed to protect it.

You should proably look at running a hypervisor on that box and running those operating systems as virtual machines. Server 2016 Hyper-v server is free https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/evalcenter/evaluate-hyper-v-server-2016 Vsphere Hypervisor server is free https://www.vmware.com/products/vsphere-hypervisor.html Run those and connect with Rsat or what have you and go to town. If you are a student register with your school email and get the datacenter version of 2016 free to have all kinds of fun.

That's a big budget for a small request. Why lean into making your own instead of a cloud provider like Havoc? Shooting from the hip here as a non ARMA 3 dude, 128 slot server is $60 a month or 13.8 years of a server on your budget. Instead of having to maintain a box, software, ISP faults, redundancy etc... you could just pay a monthly price. If you really want the extra slots to cover everyone playing at once they might special rate you. If your full on about this and going balls to the wall, just pick up a dell R430 with some SSDs instead of making your own. Easily rack mountable and has hardware support for when something inevitably breaks. A dual socket E5-2690V4 @ 14 core / 28 thread (each) with boost up to 3.5Ghz with a second power supply and 32 Gigs will run you 7k. Add some Intel SSDs and caddys for plugging them in and you look at another couple hundred (most intel SSDs are supported QVL by dell raid FYI). I'd recommend thread ripper if it were a current option but I don't see it outside of enthusiast workstations (albeit i only looked for a few minutes). (Assuming American) If your going balls to the wall just make an LLC and "charge (airquotes charge) members of your server for hardware support" treat this as income and write the Dell R430 off as a business expense imo. Edit: I have no idea what kind of compute arma needs. Considering what virtual hosts provision for clients the above cpu is stupid overkill waist. Refer to Arma forums for realistic requirement. The r430 can start out at a grand for a six Core and go up to 2x 20cores.