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OhioanBluetoothSpeaker

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  1. I've been thinking up a build that would do 1080p gaming at max settings easily, and allow for upgrading down the line. Here's what I came up with: CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC - Freezer 33 eSports ONE (Black/White) CPU Cooler ($31.98) Motherboard: MSI - Z370 PC PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($104.89) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($129.99) Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.65) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB AMP Edition Video Card ($408.99) Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($67.99) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99) Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($191.99) Total: $1341.45 I'm going for a white and black aesthetic, but since you guys know your stuff, how could I cut some corners and reduce the total cost? Could I make it to $1,250? Even $1,200?
  2. So I've spent some time examining the RX 500 series cards that were suggested and I realized they were just overclocked versions of the 400 series. So I went with a 1060 GB GDDR 5. Here's the build... CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper T2 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($14.49 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($94.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($73.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.44 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB Video Card ($239.98 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake - Versa H21 ATX Mid Tower Case ($33.95 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link - TL-WN725N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($9.45 @ OutletPC) Monitor: AOC - G2260VWQ6 21.5" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor ($119.99 @ Best Buy) Keyboard: Redragon - S101 Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($24.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1009.64
  3. I think AMD is trying to take the cake when it comes to the CPU market.
  4. I'm not trying to say anyone's opinions aren't helpful I just wanna go to sleep...
  5. And I've been out of the loop when it comes to PC parts for a while so it doesn't help that people are trying to advertise in a forum post...
  6. Like the title implies, I am new to this so I'm going to assume that what DocSwag said is close to the truth so the NVME is gone...
  7. Well this has been a short experience, and I will review these selections you guys have shown. Thanks
  8. So go balls deep on the CPU and GPU and go low for everything else?
  9. Here are the specs from PC part picker. Feel free to criticize my decisions. CPU: Intel - Pentium G4600 3.6GHz Dual-Core Processor ($86.88 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper T2 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($9.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX H270F GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($129.49 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($49.88 @ Newegg) Storage: Corsair - Force MP500 120GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.44 @ OutletPC) Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 750 Ti 4GB Video Card ($109.99 @ Newegg) Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC) Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link - TL-WN725N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter ($9.45 @ OutletPC) Monitor: Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($109.00 @ Best Buy) Keyboard: Redragon - S101 Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($24.99 @ Amazon) Total: $862.87
  10. I have a F2a85-M Pro motherboard, and it doesn't boot when a cpu and ram is installed (Original parts, not new ones), and since I don't have spares I can't narrow it down to what part is dead. A small green light is still glowing when ever I plug the PSU in though, leading me to believe it is not fried. QUESTION: Does the green light still being on mean that the mobo isn't fried?
  11. I still have one unanswered question... Does the green light on the motherboard signify if it is fried or not? That's all I wanted to know.
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