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Logicjunkie520

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About Logicjunkie520

  • Birthday Sep 18, 2002

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    logicjunkie5:20
  • Xbox Live
    logicjunkie520

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United States
  • Biography
    Just a guy who enjoys a bit of everything tech but i love my mechanics and my audio
    have done multiple car audio builds
  • Occupation
    Fleet maintenance tech

System

  • CPU
    RYZEN 9 5950x
  • Motherboard
    NZXT N7 B550
  • RAM
    Corsair vengence rgb pro 64Gb (16*4)
  • GPU
    AsRock 6900XT formula oc
  • Case
    NZXT H710I
  • Storage
    SeaGate Baracuda 2 Tb
    W.D Black 1Tb NVMe ssd
    Crucial P5 Plus 2Tb NVMe ssd
  • PSU
    Seasonic Focus PX-850
  • Display(s)
    LG 27GN800-B *2
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken Z73 360mm
  • Keyboard
    LG G815
  • Mouse
    LG G600
  • Sound
    Sony CS5 Bookslelfs
    Fosi audio TB10A
  • Operating System
    Win 10

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  1. thats what im trying to figure out is getting windows to see the game drive as a removable so i can pull it when im switching when i got to take the other system out the portable isnt on when i install so that ones not really a issue
  2. storage size aswell as on the portable system saving controller lanes as its used for some vr games, the ssd are going on a hotswap sled so the ports are not gona be used the same
  3. So i have seen that technically sata drives are hotswapable after enabling in bios but how does widows handle it as i have to computers one home and one portable machine and im working on putting a 2.5 ssd sled in them both to be able to move my game drive back an forth as i go out with it. but i dont want to have to shut the home machine down everytime i want to swap. I understand in linux you have to run a flush to clear any pending rights and that i was thinking at most i would have to make a batch script to clear pending rights then power the drive off to eject and then another to initilize the drive when putting it back in. Am i thinking correct on this if so what cmds would i need to run if not what am i missing or am i just over complicating it
  4. i would love to but the laptop i have been borrowing for the last week hasnt been cutting it as a few games have been stuttering and its R7 5800x and rtx 3060 but thats all the mobile chips which dont run the same as desktop chips
  5. Budget (including currency): 1500 USD Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: VR and General office work and vehicle diag Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/2Brz6D So this is the current build sheet that is work i progress but what im aiming for is a system that is portable like a laptop but is the power and repair/upgrade ability of desktops I'm a Fleet maintenance mechanic during the day so need to use good speced systems to do programing and diag of computers as well as my office work so i tend to have multiple sheets and pages open at once, but at night i tend to travel to like coffee houses or friends places to game and play vr so i want just one system when im out. at home i have a high power pc so im not needing a fully baller system here My current plan is based off a Fractal Ridge case (not to big but not also so small im gona super limited in cooling and hardware space) im gona be custom mounting a small monitor to the side of the case and have a small 12v usbC board mounted in the case to power aswell small display cable routed as seamless as posible for this "built in" monitor For traveling i plan on getting something like a pelican case to carry it around and protecting it and i will be custom making a support bracket to keep the gpu from snapping My main hold up right now is power I Want to be able to run the system at times in a portable self contained system so I will have custom made battery pack externally this is were my dilemma is what path to choose from as i have to routes i can go Standard power supply and have a power inverter built in to my battery supply. This has the down side of efficiency and space because i have to convert my DC powerpack to 120AC in a pure sinewave in to the psu and have that go back to DC my other option is i can get DC power supply the i can put DC directly in and have that just adjust the voltages for the PC so when i run off battery i can just have the pack directly in and when i want to be on Home power just use a Power brick just like laptops. This is the route i want to take but I dont know were or what supply's work as i would build it in the Case and have a connector on the outside just like the Original connector Voltage input isnt a big issue as the Battery will be custom built with LioN cells so i can just build it to whatever voltage needed I need to make sure the voltage is something that is offered in power bricks the Only plugs off this "PSU" for the current Build is 1x 24pin ATX, 1x 8pin EPS, 1x 6+2 Pcie connector (i would like 2 for future proofing but 1 is fine), And depending on input voltage Just a 12 supply for the internal monitor supply as that uses usbC for power Because every psu i'v found so far are non modular i would have to pull it apart to trim the harnnes of unused circuits and also shorten the cables so they fit well in the case however, im thinking at worst i can get separate boards for each and 3D print a carrier box to fit in the SFX psu slot of the case Going this route i would be able to build my battery supply inside the carrying case or at worst be able to have a small battery in case for smaller work and be able to attach a expansion battery What do you guys think Im so close to making this project a reality but this supply issue is my downfall
  6. so im currently looking for a keyboard for my mother who is not a gamer or anything, however shes a very common habit of typing very strong emails for her job we have gone thru many keyboards, non have passed so i turn to you so heres what shes has told me as she has no clue on common terms she wants the feel of a IBM selectric or the same feel as the ultra low profile cherry mx keys for the alienware she does like the nice clicky sounds but this keyboard is for her office and we would not like to hear her typing her emails to much in her words"she channels her anger thru the keyboard" the keyboard is gona be wired as wireless equipment like to misbehave in the building so if you guys could help as i dont really know at this point
  7. Yea down the road im thinking about upgrading speakers its just what i can afford rn and when i do i will have the decents for other things
  8. So my issue with using a avr is my size constraints as i dont really have a good place to set it I love the sscs5 I got my original for my desk and did wall shelves to place them about 2 feet above ear height and spaced them about 2 feet from center and aimed at the position on my desk and they worked amazing and im wanting to complete the set up soon as rn im able to since im doing rearranging I didn’t mention it but i do have a active sub to take in my lows i snagged one on prime day my biggest thing rn is if the stock onboard audio card/chip is good or if im better off getting a dedicated card i just dont know which would be worth it as they all look the same to me honestly
  9. so "down mixing" would not work for me as i will be playing games that utilize surround right now im using the default realtek controller to upmix to the outputs as my board has 5.1 out i just can hear little inconsistency's in the mixing so i wasn't sure if a sound card would be better to mix as i was told the soundblaster x is amazing at it but i come from a time were i was told sound cards arnt really needed any more
  10. Yes im building a system for just laying down im planing on using 4 sony sscs5 speakers for my 4 corners as I already have 2 and using some fosi 2ch amps however heres my problem i did a test today using my motherboard onboard audio listening to music and idk what it is I feel like im losing quality in more places then 1 i know my rear ch is just temps I hooked up until i have the cash to drop on another pair of speakers and amp but i feel like another quality loss is the up mixing since spotify doesn’t offer surround I was reading and i see that it could be i dont have a dedicated sound card for the processing what would my best choice be thats not gona rip my wallet open
  11. So that same concept except the opposite way around one and two out
  12. So what i would like is to do is switch 1 4 channel input to 2 4 channel outs to switch between surround sound on the while sitting at the desk to surround while laying in bed since i use a completely different set them
  13. So im trying to keep my set up small and for my living room i have a nice old sony receiver that is 5.1 surround but the biggest thing i want is that it has is a channel select were i could switch between to sets a and b and i want something like that to switch between sitting at my desk and watching tv and honestly if theres a good little switch with some controls i could just use separate amps for my speakers seeing that i dont really have a center channel this is what controls my current speakers which are SSCS5
  14. So i'm looking to get a good network switch for my room to hookup all my stuff as i only have 1 cable run and i have to run a cable from the the room next to it for a second line. i'm getting confused by these ones that are managed and unmanaged what would be the difference and be best for me here is my specs and use's I currently have 1Gb fiber to my home and 1 Ethernet cable run to the room(Cat 5E i know is not the proper spec for full speed but its been working but i can redo the run With 6A if needed) My gaming pc so i don't want to inhibit its speed old apple airport for a wifi net in this part of the house doesn't need much really only connects my phone and friends phones and a laptop or 2 Xbox one s so that wont utilize the full connection and then my 3d printer that im hooking a raspi to for remote monitoring and control but i would like the printer and the pi both connect for redundancy also might hook a 2nd pi up for adblocking in the future i might be getting a small pc to act as a nas/vpn to for my network but thats down the road Im interested in this if its a good option but i don't know much about networking so i will take all the help i can get https://a.co/d/3K2uRLt
  15. there is no over clocking option on this chip set and iv tried everything even going to the length of removing all storage possible and trying to force diskpart but its not letting me delete active and i have a cloned drive on a usb stick but it wont boot from that
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