jacques1mouton1

Unfortunately that 30% increase can give me a bump from barely 50 fps in cyberpunk to 80 fps. I know this is a bad example for performance as the game is so poorly optimized. But I have been putting off playing some other games as well with more eye candy since my 1080 can't give me the performance that I am looking for anyway. It will be nice to play Cyberpunk with any shadows at all and no amd sfx shimmer.

Well for better or worse I decided to get the 3070. There are a few games where my 1080 is struggling to meet fps at 1440p. I am mainly afraid that I won't be able to get a new gpu soon at all due to either pricing or availability in my country. I have been looking to upgrade for 2 years and this price drop was exactly what I needed. As for the cpu, I will deal with the bottleneck for now and upgrade when the next generation comes out later this year. Cpus has for some reason much better availability in my country so I am not worried about waiting for that. Thank you very much for the input.

Budget (including currency): GPU only: ZAR: 13 000 (roughly 777 USD). Full PC: ZAR: 30 000 (roughly 1800 USD) Country: South Africa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Games exclusively (including VR) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Existing parts (never mined on): i7 6700k (AIO watercooled) 16 Gb 3200 MHz RAM Zotac GTX1080 800W Antec PSU Resolution target: 1440p, 60 - 144 fps depending on the game. All my peripherals are still good. We all know how difficult it has been to buy pc parts the last 2 years. I was planning on waiting for the new releases from AMD (cpu) and NVidia (gpu) before upgrading later this year and basically replacing the whole computer, but now I found what I believe to be a really good deal on a RTX 370 LHR for ZAR 10 300 (roughly 615 USD). When I originally bought my 1080 new it cost ZAR 12 500 in 2017. Retailers in South Africa seem to be heavily discounting RTX 3000 series GPUs in anticipation for the new 4000 release. What is your opinion, get a good deal now or wait for new releases with the possibility of not being able to get one or paying significantly more? I will probably also be able to sell my 1080 for a larger amount now compared to a few months from now. With gaming I don't think my CPU will be too much of a bottleneck until I upgrade it later in the year.

Great idea, it worked, thanks.

I would like to try to avoid that, windows HATES linux and I have a feeling that it would completely wipe both the boot and data partition. (Seeing that the partitions do not show up in disk management)

I recently replaced my dvd drive with a drive. My current configuration has windows installed on a 500gb ssd and linux mint 18.3 on a 1tb hard drive. I have already successfully dual booted the two operating systems. What I am trying to do now is partition the 1tb linux drive (with preferably an ntfs file system) and share that partition between both operating systems for general data storage. I already partitioned the drive in linux with gparted with an ntfs file system, but the new ntfs partition does not show up in windows. I have attached a screenshot from disk management in windows. If anyone can help me with a solution I would really appreciate it. I am used to windows and just started to get into linux.

Thanks for the help, will make it like this. (It has been a long while since I worked with transistors and remember very little)

Yup polarity doesn't matter. It can go either way.

Thanks for the advice, do you mean like this? (I will only be using 3 LED modules)

I picked up a 12V 60mA 3xLED module (picture included). I want to use this with an Arduino nano that will generate a PWM signal with a duty cycle determined by the value of a potentiometer. I simulated the circuit that I plan on using with the results close enough to the required specifications (Tested with a signal generator and a lab power supply set to 12V and the LED module works as expected). What I would like to know, before I blow up my power supply, is if it would be safe to power this circuit from a Molex connector with the 12V going to the circuit and 5V to the Arduino for power. Are there any other precautions that I should take? This is to illuminate my rear IO panel in the dark but I also want to be able to adjust the brightness. Linus posted a video quite a while back, but there is no way using his configuration to dim the LEDs.

I bought the H2100 headset. The range is not as far as I expected, but I think it is just because it is an old brick house. The sound is fantastic and it is incredibly comfortable. The only real downside is the slight hissing sound, but this is present in all wireless headset. Overall I am very happy with it and would give it a solid 4.5/5

Unfortunately there isn't a wireless edition, at least not in my country

Thanks for the help, will definitely take into account

Yes, I am looking at either that one or the void wireless, they cost roughly the same

I am looking to buy a wireless headset. First off I live in South Africa and pricing is just a mess here. I have a budget of around R 1500 (R1500 is roughly 100 USD) but can go up to R 1900. The top tech store here is wootware (http://www.wootware.co.za/computer-hardware/speakers-headsets-mics?dir=asc&order=price) and rebeltech (https://www.rebeltech.co.za/83-headsets?id_category=83&n=100). It seems that I am limited to two options, the corsair void wireless and the corsair h2100. I am interested in a pair of wireless headphones due to the fact that when I work I often spend long hours in front of the computer, occasionally moving away from it to look at class notes. I do this often enough that my current headphone's cable is starting to annoy me. I have seen several reviews for each pair online, but can't seem to find anything that compares the two. I have heard from some users that the h2100 has a bad sound quality while others said that it is fantastic. For the void wireless, some users say that it is uncomfortable when wearing the headset for a couple of hours (something that I will definitely do). Could someone maybe please recommend which of these performs best in terms of comfort, sound quality and battery life? (I don't mind disabling or particularly care about RGB)

Thats computers for you. Sometimes it is just luck of the draw.

I would check all of the power connections to the board, it is possible that when you were working in the case a power connection to the motherboard (such as for the cpu) came undone. Otherwise reseat the cpu and cooler.

I don't think you gave enough information.