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Liberty610

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About Liberty610

  • Birthday February 25

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Interests
    Computers, video editing, audio production, gaming.

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 1900x
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte x570 Xtreme
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000
  • GPU
    RTX 2080ti
  • Case
    Corsair 760T White - Full Tower
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 PRO m.2 SSD, WD Blue 2TB M.2, and (4x) WD Black HDDs
  • PSU
    Seasonic 850w
  • Display(s)
    LG Ultra Wide 34UC87M-B 34.0" 3440x1440 60Hz
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kracken x62
  • Keyboard
    CorsairK70 LUX RGB
  • Sound
    Focusrite 18i20 audio interface w/ JBL LSR 308 Monitors
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Yea, I am not sure what's causing it. This just started happening the other day. I will continue to keep an eye on it and see if it continues. I'll report back if I figure out what's causing it.
  2. I have used Malewarebytes, and nothing came back. I also ran Windows Defender and nothing came back there either.
  3. No there is nothing odd in the apps section. I know everything that is running there. I'll run a malware check and see if anything comes back.
  4. I did, but the only icon it has is the one in picture and there are several of these in task manager.
  5. Hi all, Recently I started getting a Windows icon in my task bar that I can not close. I was wonder if anyone knows how I could go about finding what is causing it. It's happened a couple times now, and I am not sure exactly when it starts, and I can't close it. When I left click it, nothing maximizes from it, and when I right click on it, all it says is "close all windows" (see attached picture). And when I I click on that, it doesn't do anything - it just stays there. Any ideas?
  6. Already updated to the latest version months ago. This sound isn't coming from the motherboard speaker. It's coming from the main audio speakers shortly after Windows loads me to the desktop. If I have the volume turned down, the beeps are also turned down.
  7. Hey all, I know what beep codes are for on a motherboard BEFORE Windows boots, but what would cause 2 quick beeps AFTER windows boots up? The last couple days, I have notice that when I boot up my Asus laptop (Model Asus ROG Strix GL704GW-PS74) once it loads into Windows and I am on my desktop, I hear two quick beeps. Any ideas on what causes this and what I can do to fix it? The only modifications I have done to this laptop is I switched out the M.2 drive from the stock 512gb to a 2tb WD Black drive, added a 2tb SATA WD Blue drive, and took out the single 16gb ram stick and added dual channel 32gb (16x2) of ram. But all these mods where done over a year ago. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  8. I practice some solid back up methods. I have a good amount of offline encrypted drives I use for backups. But I do need to be able to access passwords on the go a lot, and I just don't like the idea of using cloud based ordeals for security. Especially one that lands my entire online login profiles in one location. I don't care what type of encryption or security measures these places tout. I am not one to trust many in bog tech.
  9. I'm just not 100% sold on this idea just yet. Storing all your passwords on an external server that is controlled by unknown just seems absurd to me. However, I could get behind the idea if a physical hardware key is required for logins to go along with it. I know there is no 100% secured way to do thing in an online world, but I just can't fathom the idea of all my online accounts getting hacked on someone else's server who didn't have proper security or encryption involved in the process. I hardly trust people I know, let alone major corporations who are known for selling data for bottom lines.
  10. Hi all. I've recently been diving into the world of online security. A friend of mine who is somewhat tech savvy had a major breach occur along the way, which lead to a rabbit hole of his online accounts getting hacked. So I have been looking into more security options to not only help him out, but also expend on my own knowledge and practices. I am a NordVPN user, and they have their password manager offerings. And I have done a little bit of research and I am just not sure if I should expand on my Nord account and take on their PW manager or not. I currently do not use one, mostly because to me, the idea of putting all your passwords in one place and then shooting up to someone else's server just seems absurd. I know there is usually encryption involved, and Nord touts itself as one of the standard encryption methods being used, but again... I am not really cozy to the idea of putting my entire online identity in one place; encrypted or not. And a lot of videos I have watched online all seem to come from the same people, so that tells me they are being paid by Nord to sell the product. I have also just stumbled on passkeys devices such as yubikeys and what not, but they don't seem to be widly supported on everything yet. I have decent online practices. I never leave accounts logged in on any browser (even on my home desktops), I always clear out cache, history, and cookies, and I use NordVPM regularly. I have Bitlocker encryption on some hard drives as well, so I consider myself pretty solid digitally. But again, looking for ways top help out not only myself, but friends and relatives who are not very online savvy, Thoughts, suggestions? Thanks.
  11. I didn't think to try Crystaldiskinfo, but I'm not sure anything would pop up. The drive doesn't register at all. Nothing shows up for it in the WD diagnostic app or disk manager. When I drop any if the other 3 drives from the NAS into the external drive bay on my PC, all three of them show up in WD's apps and in disk manager. And I can clearly hear the drive heads working across the disks. The drive that gave me an error will spin up, but then nothing but silence. The drive head makes no noises. No ticking, no grinding. Total silence. So I'm assuming the head's moto is shot I have a new drive on order now. So I should be back up and running soon. Thank you for the replies. Appreciate it.
  12. Hello all! I have a WD PR4100 4 bay NAS unit. I have it set up in RAID5 with 4 of the WD Red 8TB drives in it. The drives in it are getting up there in age, so I am not surprised of my current possible dead drive. The other day, I had a red light come on drive bay 1 indicating that there was a failed drive in it. This has happened before, but it was always due to a bad firmware update and needing to reset some settings. This time is different, and I think the drive is done for, but I have never had a drive fail on me that didn't have auditable ticking in it. So, I took the drive out of the NAS unit and dropped it into my external drive bay that's connected to my PC via USB to run diagnostics on it, but Windows never sees it . When I power on the external drive bay unit, Windows makes the audio noise to indicate that there is a device connected. I hear the platters in the drive spin up, but I don't here the head moving across the platters at all, and windows doesn't 'see' that there is a drive connected. I then took one of the other drives out of the NAS unit that are still in working order and dropped it into the external drive reader, and I hear the platters and the head moving across. Windows sees it without issues. Is this a good indication that the drive is dead? A failed head motor perhaps? The warranty ran out in 2021, and the drives where bought new almost 5 years ago to the day. So I'll have to grab a new one for sure.
  13. I actually updated the bios to the karat version just prior to reading your reply. Seems to have fixed the issue up to this point. All the drivers I have installed related to the chipset are all from gigabytes website for the board. It appears the Bios update resolved the issue.
  14. Hey guys. I'm having an odd issue with a family members PC. I've narrowed it down to being caused by USB Wifi dongle causing the issue. I'm running windows 10 with all the latest updates. Recently, anytime the PC would attempt to communicate with the USB wifi adapter so I could go online, the wifi icon in the task bar went from showing the 4 to 5 bars of signal to the disconnected globe icon. It would then go back to showing 4 to 5 bars of signal, then the entire system would freeze, then BSOD with DPC WATCHDOG VIOLATION. I then was able to do everything with the PC as long as I was connected with a LAN cable. The second I put a USB wifi dongle into a USB port, it will then freeze up, and BSOD again. I bought a brand new wifi dongle from Netgear and tried that, and it still freezes and crashes when trying to access the internet with it. Every single time it crashes with a BSOD it says DPC WATCHDOG VIOLATION in the error. As soon as I disconnect the wifi dongle and run the computer, it works flawlessly. Offline or online with a LAN cable. The second I connect any USB wifi antenna to it, it BSOD crashes with DPC WATCHDOG VIOLATION error. I am running 16gb of ram on Windows 10 with Intel Core i7-6800K and GIGABYTE GA-X99-Ultra Gaming motherboard. Any ideas how I can remedy this? Thanks.
  15. Hello all. I have an odd issue with my laptop battery. My laptop model is Asus ROG Strix GL704GW-PS74. I have gone in and updated the ram to dual channel 32gb and I added a 2nd 2tb ssd to it. I am on windows 11 and I have all the latest drivers and BIOS from the Asus website. I have a couple odd issues with the battery. I can chalk this up to the laptop being a couple years old and maybe the battery needs replaced, but there is a couple things that make me think there is something else going on here. I have to have the laptop plugged in on bootup. No matter what. If I am on my laptop, and it is connected to the charger, and I shut down and unplug it, it will die/drain the battery to 0% if I try to boot it up without being plugged in. Even if I the battery was charged to a solid amount. However, if I am plugged in on boot up, and the battery icon shows a solid percentage, I can unplug the power supply and use the battery as normal. For example; the laptop has been on and plugged in for the last half hour or so. I unplugged the power supply when the battery read 60%, and it has been working fine on just the battery. Normal drain time. I am getting about 40 minuets of power after unplugging the power supply at 60% battery. If I try and boot the laptop without AC connected, it will boot up to the windows log on screen, and as soon as I enter my password, it will shut down and I'll need to connect the AC power to boot it back up. When it boots, the battery says 0%. Also, if I do a full shutdown after the AC has been plugged in and the battery is charged up to any solid amount, if the laptop is left turned off for a day or two, the battery will be drained to almost 0% when I boot back up. And again, I HAVE to be on the AC power supply to boot, or it dies instantly at the windows log in screen. Is this a faulty battery, or is something else going on? Do Asus batteries have firmware updates I should try?
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