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About Liberty610

  • Title
  • Birthday February 25

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Computers, video editing, audio production, gaming.


  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 1900x
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte x570 Xtreme
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws 4 series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000
  • GPU
    RTX 2080ti
  • Case
    Corsair 760T White - Full Tower
  • Storage
    Samsung 950 PRO m.2 SSD, WD Blue 2TB M.2, and (4x) WD Black HDDs
  • PSU
    Seasonic 850w
  • Display(s)
    LG Ultra Wide 34UC87M-B 34.0" 3440x1440 60Hz
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kracken x62
  • Keyboard
    CorsairK70 LUX RGB
  • Sound
    Focusrite 18i20 audio interface w/ JBL LSR 308 Monitors
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. I have not been able to find much direct info on this, so I am hoping someone has some feedback for me on the matter. I am running the Gigabyte x570 Xtreme motherboard (seen here) with an AMD Ryzen 3950x cpu. I am currently awaiting the arrival of my Gigabyte Aorus M.2 NVMe drive (2tb model seen here). The full copper head spreader is a popular topic with these drives, mostly because of thermals and motherboards having issues fitting them on. My motherboard has removable head spreaders already on it, and the copper one that comes with the SSD obviously will not fit with the board's heat spreader over it. The 2TB model of the drive has chips on both the front and the back of the drive. Apparently this is why having the full copper spreader around the entire drive is a plus. Does anyone have an experience with these drives yet to where you removed the included copper spreader in exchange for a mother boards built in ones? I want to keep the drive cool of course, but if I can remove the drive from the copper and just use the spreaders that are on my board, I'd rather do that. I was wondering if anyone has any thermal testing they have done with a board's spread vs the included copper one. I have great cooling in my case as well. I have the Corsair Graphite 760t full tower case with Corsairs RGB fans through out the case. This is my setup via PC parts picker: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/BqHhP6 Thanks for any feedback on this!
  2. Just to follow up, I shut down the PC last night after I was done working with it, and it stayed off all night. No more random boot ups. So enabling ErP mode has prevented the issue from returning. Thank you all for the feedback and help!
  3. The Gigabyte rep didn't say if a Bios update would or wouldn't fix it. They have released a new bios as of yesterday. I am always on the fence about installing them because everything else appears to be working fine. However, with it being a new Ryzen setup, I know the platform still has some maturing to do as Den-Fi mentioned. So I am always on the fence about whether or not I should be updating. I haven't fully tested if enabling the Erp has fixed this issue. Right now, I can only assume it has because the last several times I have done a full shutdown, it's booted itself back up within 20 minuets. After I enabled Erp, I shut down for over an hour and it stayed off, but I have video work to do today so I had to boot back up. So far so good, though. I guess I can feel more confident that it's fixed if I walk into the room tomorrow morning and it's still off after my shut down later tonight.
  4. Gigabyte tech support suggested to enable Erp mode in the Bios because one of my devices assisted to be triggering the power on state. After enabling it, my computer remains off since my last shut down over an hour ago. Usually it kicks back on within the first 15 minuets. So far, this has solved my problem.
  5. Wow.... well then... 2 different boards from 2 different manufactures with the same issue. This is interesting. I wonder what they come up with for it. I am actually on hold with Gigabyte right now. I'll report back with what they have to say. I have had some weird issues with builds I have done in the past, but this is a new one to me!
  6. Ok, so I have ruled out another possibility of what's been causing this on my system. It was suggested to me that maybe it was the power/reset switch cables for my case. So far, I have made sure they are all snug and not loose, and I have disconnected them completely. Both times, I did a full shut down, and within 10 mins of both shut downs, it booted itself back up. I noticed today that there is a new Bios version as of yesterday. So I am going to call Gigabyte and talk to them and see what they say before attempting to install that new Bios.
  7. Well, it makes me feel a little better to know I am not alone in this one. Like I said, I'll just use my PSU killswitch after shutdown for now. I have just submitted a online ticket with Gigabyte as well in hopes that they can shed some light on it, or at least be aware of the issue. I want a 3950x for this board, but I can't get my hands on one right now. I get alerts of when they are in stock, and when I go to look, they are gone already. I have not looked into the 3rd gen Threadrippers. I know they are beefy, but I just don't have the need for them. My production projects are small to mid sized and I do some gaming on the side, so the 3900x and potentially the 3950x will be a sweet spot cpu for me. Thanks for the replies so far! Let me know when you do your bios update and if it seems to help!
  8. Got ya. Thanks for the tip. I was one of the Threadripper launch day guys, so I know what growing pains is on these new platforms. But I held off on getting a x570 for a while in hopes most the bugs where out. Although this is a minor annoyance, it's still an annoyance. I guess I'll use my PSU killswitch after shutting down for now.
  9. Are you on a Ryzen system as well? Edit: Sorry, that was a dumb reply. I just looked at your board specs. I'm glad I am not the only one having this issue. Have you tried anything else to resolve it on your end?
  10. Hello all,I am having an odd issue with my new motherboard/system. I just swapped out my Threadripper 1950x and Gigabyet x399 Aorus Gaming 7 motherboard for a Ryzen 3900x and Gigabyte x570 Xtreme. So far, I have no issues with the performance. I have not done any overclocking, and everything has been stable.Here is my full parts list vis PC Part Picker:https://pcpartpicker.com/b/BqHhP6I have installed the latest Bios version; F10 from Gigabyte's website. I also have downloaded the latest chipset drivers and individual drivers for all the components that are Windows 10 1909 supported, as I am running Windows 10 Pro version 1909.One 3 known occasions now, my system has powered itself back from a full shutdown state. I powered it down before heading out for a bit. and when I came home it was powered on. When I logged into my main user account, task manager said system up time was 4 hours and some change, which meant it kicked on shortly after I had powered it down.Last night I had done a full shut down, and while working on another build for a friend, my system powered itself back on. This time I actually saw it do it. At this point, I started researching what could been causing it. Here are some steps I have taken to try to prevent it from doing it.In BIOS, I double checked to make sure fast boot was off, which it has been since I installed the BIOS. I turned off 'Wake Up On LAN" after the first time it turned itself back on, but the issue continues. Since it turned back on last night, I have gone into Windows Power Settings and changed the following under the Sleep tree:-Sleep After: Never-Hibernate: Never-Allow Wake Times: NeverI also went into device manager and turned off 'Allow this device to wake PC" under the mouse and keyboard settings. After I made this changes, I clicked on the start icon, and click 'Shut down". It shut all the way down, and I tapped on my keyboard and mouse a little bit to make sure they where not going to trigger a boot up. It stayed powered down, and I left the room. Later on when I came back to the PC, and it was booted up again and task manager said it was up almost 4 hours, which means the system stayed shut down for about an hour and a half, if that, before it booted back up.Does anyone have anything else I could try? I would just keep the kill switch off for now, but I really don't want to do that. I know the Ryzen 3900x and x570 is still relatively new and there is not a lot about this board online yet. I have not attempted to contact Gigabyte yet.. That's my next step on Monday when they have support lines open.
  11. Hi all, I am having a small issue with one of my M.2 drives not showing up in my system after I did a BIOS update. To start off with, my motherboard is a Gigabyte Aorus X399 Gaming 7: https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/X399-AORUS-Gaming-7-rev-10#kf I have a Threadripper 1950s, and 2 M.2 drives. One is a Samsung 950 Pro (NVMe - Boot drive) and the other is a WD Blue 2TB (SATA - general storage). My board has 3 M.2 drive slots, and all of them support both NVMe and SATA m.2 drives. My entire system can be found here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/BqHhP6 I bought this board and the Threadripper 1950x on launch day a couple of years back, and have not had any issues. It's been a great system for me. I am looking to upgrade to a Gen 2 Threadripper CPU, so in order to do that, a BIOS update is required on my board. Yesterday, I updated the BIOS from version F3j to that least F12e. The BIOS update went fine, and after the update completed, I cleared the Cmos as an extra precaution. It's just something I always do because of funny behaviour I have seen in other systems. Afterwards, my WD 2TB drive was not being seen by the system. The Samsung drive was there and booted into Windows just fine. The WD drive was not listed in BIOS or in Windows. I called Gigabyte, and they said the optimal defaults should see both drives without issues, and they wanted to make sure the board was still in full in working order. So I move the drives around to make sure the slots on the board were still working. I took the Samsung SSD out of the first (top slot), and put it in the second slot where the WD drive was, and moved the WD drive to the first slot where the Samsung drive was. When I booted up, the Samsung drive was still there, but again, the WD drive was not. This told me that the slots on the board are fine. So I then moved the Samsung drive back to the original first slot and then moved the WD drive to the 3rd slot that's at the bottom of the board near all the SATA ports. When I booted it up, it found BOTH m.2 drives and everything is working as normal. For some reason, the WD drive is not being detected in the original 2nd slot I had it in. Is there something in the new BIOS version that could make STATA drives not work in the first 2 slots? I plan on getting another NVME drive so all 3 M.2 drives are filled, but I don't want to do that if the board isn't going to see them all. So I am som what confused on why this is happening and what drive I should consider if any more at all. In the BIOS settings, there is no section to tell the M.2 drives what type of drive to look for. I see some BIOS for other boards have it where you can select Auto, NVMe, or SATA for each M.2 port, but that option is not found on anywhere on my board at all in this BIOS version. I have included pictures of the Bios screens. Does anyone have any ideas?
  12. I would say my max budget would be $2000.00 (USD). I could be flexible with that if the right option presents itself, but for the most part that is where I would be. As far as weight and battery life goes, I don't think I have a huge preference with those much. To be honest, I am kind of surprised at what they are putting in laptops these days. I always avoided laptops in general because I have always been a power user on the desktop (my current build is a full tower Threadripper 1950x with 9 hard drives and the RTX 2080ti). I didn't feel any laptop could reach half the potential that I needed to go mobile with anything, so I avoided looking into them. When I had the MSI Stealth earlier this year, I was able to work on video edits with it so when I returned to my desktop, I could finish off renders and what not from saves I did on it. I expect to have shorter battery life on a laptop that can run heavy tasks like video editing or high-end gaming because of the power that's needed, which again is why I have been looking around because I know heat is always an issue.
  13. I am if there are issues with the model that is coming. I believe I have 30 days to return it to Newegg if I have issues. I watched a youtube review from MobileTechReview about it, and the lady who does the reviews has said that the GL504's thermals are not different from the GL704's thermals. What other options would you suggest?
  14. Thanks for the reply. What is it that doesn't make it a good model exactly? And what is the source of the Asus quality control comment? I was hoping for more detailed/hands-on feedback. This isn't much more info then some of the user reviews I have seen.