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Crash_Dummy

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  • Posts

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About Crash_Dummy

  • Birthday Jan 24, 1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oregon, United States
  • Interests
    Games, hiking
  • Biography
    Not much to tell, I'm a lone breed
  • Occupation
    Equipment operator

System

  • CPU
    6700K - 4.7ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Z170 Deluxe
  • RAM
    32 Gb G.Skill Ripjaws 3200
  • GPU
    Nvidia Titan XP 2050mhz
  • Case
    NZXT S340 Elite
  • Storage
    2x 512GB 950 PRO, 3TB W.D. Black
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850X
  • Display(s)
    60" Samsung 4K TV
  • Cooling
    Corsair h100i V2
  • Keyboard
    Logitech k800
  • Mouse
    Logitech G900 Chaos Spectrum
  • Sound
    7.1 Home theater
  • Operating System
    Windows 10
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

609 profile views

Crash_Dummy's Achievements

  1. In case anyone was wondering, I found the problem. The Windows update included an updated HEVC video extension file that was causing the problem. I went to settings, apps, then under apps and features you type a search for HEVC. Then you simply uninstall it. The downside is that it's no longer in HDR, but it's not really a big deal. I was more worried about the sound quality.
  2. Has anyone else run into this... I noticed that Netflix updated my app on my pc and that tv shows were listed as being in 4k ultra hd and hdr. Didn't think much into it since I'm on a 6th gen processor, however when I started watching a show I saw my tv screen change to hdr mode, yes I use a 60 in Samsung as my monitor. I dont know if the show was displayed in 4k or not but it was definitely in hdr. Fast forward a couple days and another Windows update later and now any show or movie that is labeled as 4k won't play at all. I get a Netflix error code which doesn't come up at all when I search for it on their website or on google. All non 4k content plays just fine. Does anyone have an idea of what is going on? I wouldn't care if the 4k and hdr didn't work as long the show would auto downgrade the quality to it's allowed resolution, if I want 4k and hdr I can just switch to the Samsung app on the tv, but if I am just taking a break from gaming and watching a show quick I'd rather do it on my pc. I couldn't find anything on their support page at all, I even found the error that is supposed to pop up when you don't meet the requirements and it is similar but different by only 1 or 2 characters. I tried uninstalling/reinstalling but nothing changed. I know i could use the browser, which does work fine btw, but the sound quality doesn't come through as 5.1 like the app was. I can't even find a setting option in the app that will lower the streaming quality, just the download quality.
  3. I had a node 605 which has a similar layout as yours. It had an i7 6700k oc'do to 4.5ghz. I was able to keep it cool with a Noctua NH-D9L with an NF-A9 extra fan attached blowing to the rear. I had all 3 120mm fan slots filled and blowing in and 2 80mm fans blowing out. If you don't have enough headers you can get y connectors. Then I put a shim from the corner of the case going to the corner of the cooler and that worked pretty well for me until my ambient temps changed with the weather. Then I broke down and got a new case to fit an aio. Here's a pic of that setup...
  4. I've never used your motherboard but I think that most Asus mobo's have similar fan control features. I have fan expert 3 I think, which comes with asus software suite and I haven't had any problems with it. Makes it simple to create your own fan curves or use the built in one's, silence, standard, turbo and another one I can't remember now. I just keep the little icon on my desktop and when I go to play a game that will boost my temps I just hit the turbo button first.
  5. I had a Fractal Design Node 605 case that came with 2 fans connected to a built in controller then to a molex. I suggest doing what i did, just disconnected them and plug them into the motherboard for better control. I didn't want those old ugly things in my pc. Especially since there was no hiding it in that case.
  6. Personally I don't know why people care what the cpu is called, as long as it has the core count I want, the GHz and overclocking capabilities that I want they could brand the thing as an ish!t and I'd still slap the go faster sticker on my pc and post the pics, lol.
  7. Here are my 8K Optimized results: CPU: 6700K @ 4.7ghz GPU: 2016 Titan X (Pascal) @ +200mhz clock, +455mhz memory 8K Optimized Score: 4509
  8. Here are my results for Superposition in both 4K Optimized and 1080p Extreme: CPU: 6700K @ 4.7ghz GPU: 2016 Titan X (Pascal) @ +200mhz clock, +455mhz memory 4K Optimized Score: 9991 1080p Extreme Score: 6308
  9. Heck, would a new Xp even connect with the XP with the changes they made? Most of the used ones I find people want near $1000 for them, that's just ridiculous.
  10. I don't already have a 1080ti, just the XP. I was just seeing if it was a viable option because people are trying to sell their used XP's for more than the price of the new 1080ti. I'd like to get a little extra power because I like having everything maxed at 4k, except for a.a., I don't bother with that.
  11. I'll probably buy the new one, but I might wait 6 months to make sure that they don't come out with a Titan Xv after the Titan XV. I'd keep my Titan XP tho. I have a hard time selling old electronics. Partially cuz I like to make sure I have a backup and largely cuz I'm addicted to them, lol.
  12. Thanks guys, I kinda figured as much. I appreciate the clarification.
  13. I have a 2016 Titan X and I was wondering that since the GTX 1080 ti seems to be almost the same, just with faster ram, could they be SLI'd together? I've been trying to find a used Titan X but everyone still wants way to much for one and it would be more cost effective to just get a 1080 ti. Let me know what you guys think and thank you in advance for your advice
  14. I'll start with a little back story first, if you're interested, if not then just skip ahead. I was a big pc gamer back in the day, pre PS3 era. I was so tired of switching between Nvidia and Radeon cards and trying to figure out which driver for each worked best with each game. Enter the PS3 and Xbox360. I gave up on pc. Now, I waited to buy the new PS4 and XBONE and a year after I decide to get them they start announcing new ones already. I decided that if I was gonna start spending so much again then I would rather do it on a pc and have fun with it. On a whim I bought an Alienware laptop at Best Buy and then got the Graphics Amp with a GTX 1080. All was good, but I got an itch, I tried to ignore it, but it just kept intensifying. I would watch videos on YouTube and see all these cool rigs and the parts that were used, I wanted one so bad, but I didn't have room to put one. Then one day I saw a case that was the size of a console and could house a full graphics card. After researching that I was about to pull the trigger with some skepticism. I was nervous about the cramped space for my first build. I also couldn't find a mini itx board with all of the options that I wanted, Bluetooth, WiFi, m.2, thunderbolt capabilities and so on. Enter the Node 605 by Fractal Design. I had a space next to my receiver that could fit an HTPC, which I never heard of until recently. It could fit everything I wanted and looked smooth too. I just wish I could see inside of it on a daily basis because I am truly proud of what I've accomplished my first time out. All I had ever done is add ram, change video cards and power supplies, and that was over 10 yrs ago. Surprisingly I had very few issues. The first one being the thermal paste. I was just so nervous about applying to much or little from what i read either one was bad. It didn't give me problems but I must've watched 6 different videos before applying it. The next was installing the video card, the card wouldn't line up with the slot on the motherboard. It was only off a millimeter or 2 so I braced the front of the case with one hand and gently pulled on the rear then was able to slide it in place. The next issue was that I couldn't fit the hard drive cage in because it was hitting the power wires on top of the video card. I had to bend them right out of the connector. Then for cable management I crammed them all either between the front plate and hard drive cage or through the hard drive cage, which was no simple feat. After I had everything together it was time to hit the power button....then nothing. Turns out that I must've pulled out part of the 28pin connector from the power supply side, but for a time I was seriously panicked. No problems with the bios setup except that it didn't recognize my wireless mouse but it did the keyboard. Then I went to install windows. I got to where you have to click the terms agreement and since I didn't have a mouse I was screwed. So I had to run to Walmart down the street and bought an $8 mouse and all was well. I am using one 950 pro as a boot drive as well as any apps that I download. The second 950 pro I am using for games, mostly those prone to longer load times. The WD Black is for other games and pics/vids. I attached some pics I took along the way, let me know what you all think. The ram is in the wrong spot on the pics. I found out while looking in CPU-Z that it said I was in single channel mode and I have fixed that. It made a pretty good change in my benchmarking scores and with frame rates in games. Here's what I have inside:Intel 6700k O.C. 4.53ghz, 32 gb G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200 set at 3193, Asus Z170 Deluxe, 2 512 gb Samsung 950 Pro's, 1 3tb Western Digital Black, Noctua NH-D9L w/ an extra NF-A9 (needed after overclocking), NVIDIA GTX 1080 F.E. O.C. 2088mhz , ram O.C. to 10500, 3 120 mm Arctic F12 pwm 74 cfm intake fans, 2 80 mm Arctic F8 pwm 31 cfm exhaust fans. Powered by a Corsair RM 850x gold full modular psu. All stuffed inside a Fractal Design Node 605 and controlled by a Logitech K800 wireless keyboard and an MX Master Bluetooth mouse. I originally only had the 3 120 mm fans (2 in/1 out) in there but after overclocking the temps on the cpu were nearing 85 during stress testing with Prime95, so I added the 2nd cpu fan and turned around the 120 mm exhaust to make it an intake and added the 2 80 mm exhaust fans. What you can't see in any of the pics is that in the back right corner where the exhaust fans share a corner with an intake fan I put a shim from the corner of the case to the corner of the cpu cooler to guide the intake air directly at the cooler and to keep the cpu exhaust air headed outside of the case. I didn't want the intake fan blowing the exhaust air towards my gpu. Haven't pulled the 2nd 950 pro out of my laptop yet but there is the expansion card for it. There's the 2nd 950 Pro! All settings fully maxed including hairworks
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