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Hi, I have a Corsair K95 RGB Platinum and I'm trying to create a macro triggered my pressing down multiple keys (Such as CONTROL + G1) since I've run out of G-keys to assign macros to. Is this possible to do in the Corsair Utility Engine application, or should I use AutoHotkey instead? Thanks in advance.

I'm downloading a copy of Windows 10 onto a bootable USB stick. Is there a way to reset Windows this way?

Windows 10, last updated a few weeks ago

I tried that as well, but it didn't work. Do you think that completely wiping the drive would work? (I haven't got a backup, but it's better than having a bricked PC) EDIT: tried to wipe the drive, but it failed and reverted the changes...

I was playing Playerunknown's Battlegrounds when I got a blue screen. Now my PC won't boot into windows. I tried booting into safe mode, resetting windows and startup repair, but none of these work. Any ideas?

At first I thought it was coil whine, but I overclocked using the exact same settings (4.2GHz @1.3V) using AI Suite once the PC had booted and there was no sound. That's why I think it is something to do with the BIOS.

For some reason my PC started making a really annoying high-pitched noise. I noticed that loading the optimised defaults in the BIOS fixed this, and trying to overclock either the RAM or the CPU made the noise appear again. With the default settings loaded, I opened ASUS AI Suite 3 and overclocked the CPU from there and the noise didn't appear. For some reason it only occurs when overclocking in the BIOS. I find this really bizarre, as I've been using the same RAM and CPU for over six months and never had this happen. Relevant specs: -CPU: i7 6800K -MB: ASUS X99 Strix GAMING -RAM: 32GB (2x16GB) Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000MHz DDR4 P.S. I did update the BIOS to the latest version a few days ago, so I'm not sure if this had any effect. P.P.S. The sound first appeared when I was in Windows around the time I was trying to install SoftPerfect RamDisk (could be a coincidence, but seems suspicious). Thanks in advance.

I would have done hardline, but this is my first build (I haven't even done an air cooled build before this). The number of times I've had to move things around slightly to make them fit after the tubing was in made me glad I went with soft tubing. For example, since I took that picture, I added three more fans at the front for push-pull on the radiator. When I do another build in the future, I'll probably do hardline, because I agree it would look much better.

Specs: -CPU: i7 6800k -GPU: GTX 1080 Ti SLI -MB: X99 STRIX Gaming -RAM: 32GB DDR4 3000MHz -SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 1TB -HDD: Seagate Barracuda 3TB -PSU: EVGA Supernova 850 P2 -Case: Cooler Master - Mastercase Maker 5 Any suggestions / criticisms are welcome

Just installed the new fans. Temperatures once the loop has reached equilibrium are about 5ºC lower now, so it definitely made a difference.

I've just ordered three more fans for a push-pull configuration. I know that it normally wouldn't make much difference, but in this situation it should guide more of the air through the radiator instead of having it being lost through the gaps

I could put the fans inside the case, but they would be right up against the reservoir and I'm not sure if that will be a problem. I'll try doing a temporary seal with some sort of putty and see if it makes a difference, and look for a more long term solution of it does. Thanks for your suggestions.

Hopefully the pictures should give some reference as to what I mean. I'm not sure if I've simply muted everything badly, but I tried redoing it and got the same result

I recently put together a custom water cooling loop (2 GPUs, CPU, 240mm and 360mm radiators). Because of the way my case is designed (Cooler Master - MasterCase Maker 5), I cannot attach the three 120mm front fans directly to the 360mm radiator. Instead, there is a metal mounting bracket in between the fans and the radiator, creating an air gap of about 5mm between the fans and the radiator. I noticed that there is much more air exhausting the 240mm rad at the top (where the fans are pressed against the radiator) than the 360mm rad at the front, and I suspect this is because of air being pushed around the radiator. Is there a product I can use to create a seal between the fans and the radiator (without resorting to something like duct tape)? Thanks in advance.

That's not true, check out this video by Jay: TL;DW: as long as you have non-conductive thermal paste, it won't be an issue

Thanks, I'll definitely go for the Noctuas then.

I've almost finished planning my custom water loop, but I have a few questions that I couldn't find answers for online (I'm cooling two GTX 1080 Tis and an i7 6800K). First of all, I saw a JayzTwoCents video where his PC (Skunkworks) has very thin-looking fittings between each GPU. So far I'm looking at EK-ACF fittings, but they look much bigger than the ones in Jay's build (and other builds I've seen online). I currently have the GPUs with a 3-slot separation, so are these thin fittings required? Secondly, I'm thinking of mixing distilled water with EK-Ekoolant Pastel White. Is this a good choice, and how long should I wait before changing the fluid once it's in the system? Finally, I'm deciding between Noctua NF-F12 120mm and Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition 120mm fans. The Noctua fans are a bit more expensive, so is it really worth the £7/$9 price difference per fan? Thanks in advance.

Oh, does it come in the little black toolbox? I'only asking because the box is on the other side of the country

Where do you get the bracket from? Because I can't find it on the Cooler Master website.

First of all, are you overclocking? If yes, then bring down the overclock slightly. If you're not, it could be a bug with 3DMark. If you say that performance in games is good, then I definitely wouldn't bother with an RMA. If you find your games crashing at stock clocks (or a moderate overclock), then you should RMA.

I'm planning on incorporating a custom water loop into my build and I have a few questions, as this is my first water cooling project. Relevant specs: - CPU: i7 6800K - GPU: 2x GTX 1080 Ti FE - PSU: 1000W EVGA G3 - Radiator support: 240mm top, and 240 front (could probably fit a thin 360mm or 420mm rad at the from though) For the GPU blocks, I'm thinking of getting Phanteks Glacier GTX 1080 Ti blocks, as they are compatible with the NVIDIA HB SLI bridge. On the product page, it says that it has the following metals: Copper Base, Nickel plated, Acrylic Cover, Aluminum Covers Anodized / Chrome plated, Brass plug, Nickel plated / Anodized. I know that mixing metals in a custom loop is a bad idea, but there are so many metals on the block, I'm not sure which one to use for the rest of the loop. For the CPU, I was thinking of either getting one of the Phanteks CPU blocks or an EKWB. Please let me know if you have any recommendations. For the radiators, I'll definitely get a 240mm radiator on the top (possibly from Alphacool) and I'm debating what size to get on the front. The EKWB configurator recommends getting around 550W of heat dissipation for my setup, so that's a 240mm rad at the top with either a thick 240mm rad at the front, or a more thin 360/420mm rad at the front. Does anyone have any experience with a similar setup, and if so, what radiator configuration would you recommend? I'm going with flexible tubing (again, because this is my first water cooling project), and possibly white pastel fluid with clear tubes. Would this be good idea, or is plain distilled water better for cooling? Thanks in advance.

It's 1440p (as far as I know there aren't any 165Hz 4K monitors ).

It turns out that the PSU was not the issue, but instead it was GSync. Please see above for a more detailed solution.

Thanks, I'll give that a go.

Refresh rate is 165Hz, but the framerate never went above that with GSync enabled