Zalosath

Hm yeah I suppose it is. I don't see a good solution here for Google. You may just have to start using another app. LibreOffice is free. Or Word if you want the premium features. Google's solutions are inherently cloud based, if you want to backup the actual data I think your only option is to export them as word docs.

Hi, recently I formatted an old SSD with windows 11 bootloader on it. Before doing so, I made a new bootloader on my new SSD so that it would still boot as normal. This worked perfectly, old drive is now formatted and used for other things, new drive boots just fine. However, now when I click the Shutdown button, it's as if I just pressed the lock button, screen goes black for a second and then shows my login screen again. Holding shift while pressing it solves the issue. Not a dealbreaker obviously, I can just hold shift. Just wondering if anyone knows what causes this and how to fix it.

Yes you can do that too, if you want to include the manual step. Just download Google Drive onto your Windows PC and set it up to mirror files. You can either set it to mirror to your NAS for automatic backups, or just mirror to one of the drives on your PC if you want to copy and paste manually.

Something like this.

Google stores these files a .gdoc/.gsheet/etc... files. Just store that. No need to export. Mount your Google Drive onto your NAS as a mirror and you'll have it stored on the NAS and on Google Drive, synced.

You'll almost definitely lose quality by transcoding, if that's fine by you then go ahead. I personally use Tdarr for standardising my files, but it's just handbrake under the hood so it can do transcoding no problem. However, if it's an option for you, I'd say expand your storage.

CloudFlare workers? https://discord.com/developers/docs/tutorials/hosting-on-cloudflare-workers

If you're on a laptop/PC you can just host it on there, keep it on for 24 hours.

I have the Pixel 8 Pro and get lots of issues with the Google One VPN connection, if I don't set it to Always-on it just does not connect at all, and even then it will sometimes disconnect. Besides that, I do also have some connectivity issues occasionally where I'll have to turn WiFi off and on to get it to work again, though this is rare.

For remote access use Wireshark WireGuard, never have your NAS directly open to the internet.

I've never had a gmail get deleted, but if it did I'd be very mad about losing my Google One subscription and all of my photos!

Minecraft and many other game servers are quite reliant on a single core, so you'll want something that is very quick per core. Honestly you'd be better off with Intel, not only for a server, but also for transcoding on Jellyfin.

Only one needs to be populated. It's probably the left one but definitely double check that (could even just be either). The other is only used if you plan to overclock, drawing more power than the single connector can handle.

A home server just moves the monthly fee to electricity cost. Set up Wireguard on the home server and connect to that while you're away. Can't comment on what your parents could use to send photos/videos to it, I don't have an iPhone. There's probably an app.

I unplugged all but one SSD and I tried to run the usb installer, it got further than before so I turned my PC off, added the boot drive back in, and voila, PC is working. Must be one of my secondary SSDs, I wonder why they don't just fail gracefully? They're literally just extra storage.

This didn't seem to work either, still stuck on that same screen. I will say that in the black screen I get from trying to boot, if I use Win + Arrow keys I can find a window called Winpeshl.exe, it's blank though. I can also move the mouse. It's less than a year old I better have warranty on it. I'll give that a go.

For the installation, I get to the part where you select your language (the first page), click next, and then it stops doing anything at Setup is starting, I get no where near actually reinstalling. I have a few SSDs in there, I just can't get far enough into the installation to pick one. Yeah this was my initial thought, but the fact I can't even get the USB win11 installer working, could it still be that? Or perhaps it's crashing because the drive is dead? I'll try remove it and see what happens.

Hi, I have an issue with my PC at the moment, it was on the desktop, I left for a moment, came back and it had crashed, couldn't move the mouse or use the keyboard, desktop background had stopped moving too. So I restarted it, it goes through BIOS steps and then I'm greeted with 1 of 2 things: - a neverending loading circle with the ASUS logo above it - a page saying "preparing automatic repair" which will stay for a few seconds then cut to a seemingly neverending black screen. BIOS shows that my boot drive is still detected and self test passes. I've tried: Removing all external devices Resetting BIOS Clearing CMOS Reseating boot drive Reinstalling using a windows USB, this is an incredibly slow process that stops on Setup is starting. It hasn't actually crashed though I can still use the mouse. Any ideas? It just suddenly broke and I have no idea why, full specs are in my signature.

Probably re-download it. Alternatively (might just give you the same problem), open cmd in your steamcmd folder and just run steamcmd. It updates automatically.

This thread says that they had an outdated version of steamcmd, tried upgrading it?

I think you may have been right. I'll preface this by saying that the fan placement I had was probably suboptimal to begin with so this isn't a be all end all test. With that being said here are the results. My first test involved 9 fans, 3 at the top set to exhaust, 3 on a rad on the side set to intake, and 3 on the bottom set to intake. With this configuration my GPU was spinning half to death making a proper racket. My GPU & CPU reached temperatures up to ~70-80 degrees on Tiny Tina's Wonderlands benchmark. I removed the bottom 3 intakes, so now I just have 3 intakes on the rad, and 3 exhausts across the top and the results are very different. The same benchmark on the same settings, my GPU reached 60 tops, and my CPU 70 tops. So at least for me, removing those bottom 3 fans has helped quite significantly.

Hadn't even considered this. I'll give that a go and see what I get results wise.

I got a watt meter and it says that at a pretty decent load (GPU transcoding 4K 120Mbps, full stress test on CPU), I was reaching about 140 Watts. If I account for that and just go with a 450VA, do you think that'll work fine? That should give me some overhead in case of a future upgrade or whatever.

Case fits 9, I have 9. No other reason really.

I have the commander core XT right now, and I believe that the other 3 fans are controlled by my AIO. Can't remember exactly without tearing my PC apart.