LaboonTheWhale

2 hours ago, SolarNova said:

Really depends the specific chip, the card, and how much you have to budget.

 

Some chips/generation , just dont clock well no matter what. Current gen have massivly limited voltage controls for example.

 

Additionaly some cards, though priced differently and having different coolers, will be the same even though not a reference design. For example MSi do an armor and a gaming version of the 1080ti, which are infact the same aftermarket design pcb layout card, but with different coolers.. so u would buy the cheaper model if u were going to replace the cooler for a waterblock.

 

And ofc your budget determins how far u go. Absolute top of the line cards are usualy running binned chips and have every advantage going for them to achive higher clocks, and they will achieve higher clocks, but they demand a very high premium.

 

The one I acquired is the evga 2080 ti black edition (non xc) and it's the cheapest of all of evga's lineup. Im guessing with the lesser binned chip. Advertised boost of 1545mhz. Bhphoto has the xc gaming and xc2 gaming ultra available but at a 150$ premium over evga's pricing. They advertise faster speeds so I'm guessing a better binned chip. Debating going with that, keeping the black edition, or wait for a big boy card like the ftw3 to come back in stock.

7 hours ago, TrigrH said:

This is normally an easy question to answer: stick with the cheaper card the performance gain will be minimal at best.

 

But we are talking about a 2080ti here and custom watercooling. IMO if we are prepared to spend this much cash on a card I think you should be getting a faster core for that overclocking peace of mind as cost isn't exactly the prime focus of the build here.

 

As for which card? well you wanna take a look at what EK has for there blocks, a pre applied waterblock card (hydro copper) is also an option, outside that I would go for a founders edition as i believe they are binned and reference pcb. (correct me if im wrong)

I got the Black edition for $999 (1545 boost clocks) from EVGA but the other retailers have a bit of a premium on them. the XC Gaming (1635 boost) is $350 more. so Its hard to convince myself that 100Mhz is worth $350. If you see where im coming from.

Hey guys

So I wasnt sure to put this in watercooling or gpu.

but I'm looking to get back into a custom loop but I'm debating on the GPU model. I bought the EVGA 2080 Ti Black edition (non XC) and it is the non-a binned model. It doesn't have as good of an OC headroom. I haven't opened it yet, (if i do then if I want to go with a different model I have to pay a 15% restocking to return). I see theres the XC ultra series and the FTW3 model for $300 more. I know those are better binned chips and are to OC higher than the black edition.

Generally with watercooling I tried to push my gpu harder (when I had the r9 290) but have gone back to air since then. If I was going to OC it. Better to pay that premium or just try to OC with my black edition.

Better to wait for a sale on those guys, or just use this black edition I have.

Thanks!

1 hour ago, TahoeDust said:

The black edition is a lower binned "400" nVidia chip and the other EVGA cards are the higher binned "400a" nVidia chip.  The "400a" should overclock better.  There should will be a difference with both factory setting performance and overclocked performance.  I can't say if it will be noticeable to you.

I understand there will be a difference say... the FTW3 and the black edition, but seeing how boost clocks are 90Mhz more under gpu boost, will it really push that far further?

like a 5 fps difference?

SFFPC's being <20L, instead of messing with modding I would just go with the Cerberus X.

Hey guys

So I got the EVGA 2080 Ti Black edition coming in since it was the only one I was able to snag while it was still in stock and I started browsing further into EVGA's other 2080 Ti's. The next step up is the 2 slot XC gaming version which is $200 more and has a 90Mhz boost clock difference (1545Mhz vs 1635Mhz) over the Black edition. and is clear/transparent vs the black edition.

I'm not looking to spend FTW3 prices and want to keep it 2 slot. Other than that Boost clock difference I don't see what justifies that $200 difference. I understand the plain black edition is a lesser binned chip so maybe wont OC very high. But Turing being a hot chip I doubt it'll get very high anyways.

hey guys

So costco has a deal on the LG 43UD790-B monitor for $400 but theres also a bunch of TV's like the TCL brand linus made a vide on for $279.99  43" 4k TV w/ HDR. 

Is there a reason to get a monitor over a TV or vice versa? This will be a streaming consumption/eye candy PC game screen. 

anything competitive requiring low input lag will be handled with a 1080p 240hz monitor. 

Just now, jimkirk363 said:

@LaboonTheWhale How are u overclocking it?  are u leaving the bios do it or doing it manually?

No OC has been done. Everything is stock except for me trying to load the profile for 3200Mhz for the Ram. Same way I did it with my 1700

Just now, jimkirk363 said:

@LaboonTheWhaleHave u updated the bios to the latest version on the motherboard?

Yes. Boots fine at stock speeds and able to run everything normally.

Surprised at the cinebench score of the 2700x compared to my 8700k.

hey guys

So I have this Crosshair VI I used with my r7 1700 from a year ago. I switche dto an intel based system and sat in a corner for awhile. Few months later I found a great deal on a 2700x and bought it to set back up a ryzen system for potential editing station.

Well trying to use my Trident Z CL14 3200Mhz ram that I used with the 1700, I noticed that I couldnt OC it to 3200Mhz. Is it possible that its the CPU is deffective and doesn't let it boot to 3200Mhz?

It worked on my Ryzen 5 2400G Asrock ITX build and booted to 3200 MHz.

1 minute ago, Ryan_Vickers said:

The truth is, the 4790k probably is bottlenecking it.  Here's a Titan X (similar to 980 Ti iirc) showing improvements just from a 4790k to a 6700k, never mind how much an 8700k would help.

You'd get better fps by upgrading the CPU.

 

However, doing so would be totally stupid and I don't recommend it.  If you did upgrade to an 8700k, it would cost many hundreds of dollars for the new CPU, RAM, and motherboard.  The same money spend on a GPU upgrade would absolutely destroy any difference you'd get changing the CPU.  Something like a 1080 Ti on the 4790k is going to totally stomp an 8700k with a 980 Ti.

Thanks for the heads up! I just thought this would be a fun day project on a slow weekend. This should help.

Just now, Light-Yagami said:

Games will look smoother on a 60hz panel if he's playing games at 180fps, due to faster and more consistent input lag. That said, it's pointless to get an 8700k for 160fps instead of 130-140 if you can only display 60hz/s. I assumed he's running a 144hz panel at least, because in that case he'd want every fps he can get. But for 60hz gaming.. nah. he's alright.

I do apologize. That was a detail I forgot to put in.

Just now, Light-Yagami said:

He should be worried Especially at 1080p where CPU is far more stressed compared to higher resolution where GPU becomes a very obvious bottleneck. And if he's aiming for high fps, there is a definite deficit in performance on older quad core chip like 4790k. 

he plays Siege, LoL, and CSGO on a 60hz panel which is why I wanted to test and show him its not a big deal at what he's playing on.

Hey guys

Before you guys say anybad mouthing towards me about this title, I have a friend who's convinced his 4790k is bottlenecking and should be upgrading to the 8700k for pure gaming only.

I just want to show him compared to my 8600k its not an issue but I feel showing him numbers would make more sense than just verbally telling him.

I have majority of AAA titles to benchmark and some past ones (Witcher 3, R6 siege, GTA V, Battlefield, etc). RTS games like Civ, cities skylines, or Total war series to test multiple AI on the screen at once.

But I dont know which one really takes it to the extreme to test to show he shouldnt be worried at 1080p gaming.

The CPUs i have to bench to add variety is the 2400G, 2700x, 8600k, and 8700k. 2400G being the further end of the budget spectrum to see if there really is an issue with bottlenecking. I want to test it at 1920x1080 (up to 240hz), 2560x1440, and 3440x1440 (up to 120hz).

19 hours ago, Donut417 said:

The first one listed is bull shit. 802.11AD is not worth the money. Very few devices use 60 Ghz and it has about a one room range. Triple band AC routers have 2x 5Ghz radios. I dont think that they are worth it myself. Unless you have older devices that work on the band and you have new deices you can separate them. I have the Synology RT260AC and it works well. Range is good and speeds seem to be good as well. The big thing though comes down to distance between devices and the router and walls. I wlll say this, I have heard Netgear has good networking gear. 

 

Not sure if any of these routers could do a 1/2 acre. Our property is about .2 of an acre and my 5Gh reaches the patio outside and reaches across the street. If you need great coverage outside then you will need out door AP's, if you just looking for okish coverage close to the home then I dont think you will have an issue. 

 

As far as the Comcast box is concerned its a modem as well as a router, so make sure you budget for that. Modem wise I would suggest the SB6183, CM 600 or say fuck it and get a Docsis 3.1 modem that will support up to Comcast's Gigabit tier. 

One reason we have kept this comcast box for so long is because it has phone jacks in it and apparently comcast has told my father that "you need to plug your phone into the modem to use the landline." which sounds odd to me but im no networking guy. Need a landline for family overseas who are too old to adapt to skype and whatnot. I'm having a difficult time finding a decent modem with that on it.

Hey guys

So I was browsing costco and noticed they had 2 different netgear nighthawk routers. 

Nighthawk X10 AD7000: $380 

Nighthawk XR500 w/ S8000 network switch: $300 

Nighthawk X6S AC3000: $160 

TP-Link AC3200 Wifi triband router w/ TC-7620 switch: $190 

In the world of Streaming from the PC to a TV, Nvidia shield, Steam in home stream. Etc, I was debating on getting a better router coming from the Comcast Rented router as I'm tired of paying their fees. 

These prices sound tempting compared to Amazon/newegg/Best Buy. 

Are they worth it? I will probably be hardwiring my PC in but will be connected with laptops/tablets/cell phones around the house. The property is about 1/2 Acre. 

hmmm.... using gorilla tape and tring to get it stick and pull out, after a few tries it disappeared from the header but its not stuck on the tape. errr yay?

2 minutes ago, Spud11 said:

If you had a super strong magnet maybe..?

 

One time I accidentally broke a binch of the usb 3 pins off and now only 1 front usb slot works.

I agree the usb 3 things are bulky and annoying.

theyre non magnetic i think... the one that is out doesnt stick 

4 minutes ago, TrigrH said:

https://www.amazon.com/Front-Panel-Header-Extension-Motherboard/dp/B077RWWJ5G

 

look for something like this. (hopefully a cheaper one)

you don't happen to have any tips on how to remove the pins from the header do you? 

I'm sure everyone has had this thought as they were building their PC. 

I was building in another build with my Asus Z370i motherboard and I had unplug the USB 3.0 header for the case from the Motherboard, not only is it bulky and annoying to work around, its hard to do some clean cable management in ITX builds. I pull out the cable and when I go back to plugging it back in, I notice it looks weird on the motherboard. It's missing pins! I look at the case plug and look at that, theres 2 pins stuck in there. 

I'm guessing the stress of the cable being pushed back and forth while doing cable management while plugged in loosened it. Its MY  fault yes. I know. Its just annoying to work with and I wish it was able to be fixed or USB 3.1 gen 2 becomes more widespread. I'm guessing theres no real way to fix it is there. 

rip Case USB 3 for this build. I guess i can get a usb 2.0 to usb 3.0 adapter for the motherboard. 

P.S. Before anyone may say I'm a noob or something. I've done many builds before, This is the 4th case for my z370i to be in, so I'm guessing the stress just gave in. 

2 minutes ago, spark_ said:

If I’m going to order one, should I order from Game Stop or Dell, in your opinion?

either i guess. I got mine because i was getting rid of my xbone and ps4 so i got a trade bonus trading towards the vive.

https://www.gamestop.com/pc/accessories/htc-vive-virtual-reality-system/130001

gamestop as well

On 7/2/2018 at 10:33 AM, TVwazhere said:

I generally stick to this rule and I have a FICO credit score of around 750. 

I'm sitting at 744 paying everything off. I just want to make sure I understand this in case I buy a home and those kinds of large purchases may occur.

34 minutes ago, Razor Blade said:

APR or Annual Percentage Rate is calculated on a balance that is carried over to the next month. If you have a 20% APR it isn't 20% per month, it is 20% over a year. This means your monthly calculated interest rate will be 20% divided by 12 months. Minimum payment can vary from issuer to issuer but will generally take into account principle and interest rate.

 

In your example if you carried over a $500 balance you would be charged 8.33 after the first month. Your new balance would be 508.33 for the next month. You wouldn't have interest for your introductory 0% APR but make sure you read the agreement carefully and understand it (don't be afraid to call them and ask questions) to make sure you don't get caught up in a got-cha.

Derp. Its ANNUAL percentage rate. not monthly. I definitely made a mistake understanding that. Thanks for clarifying.

35 minutes ago, airdeano said:

yes, if that is the terms/conditions of the contract.

 

your $1000 debt now has the conditions of many interpretations.

each month you will be required to make a monthly payment to pay off the debt. what happens if you miss one payment? two payments?

 

you've been making the minimum payment ($33.33 for 15 months/cycles) and have a remaining balance of $500 (no missed payments, congratulations!).

the APR is set to your 20%. your next statement will reflect your remaining debt, plus the 20% or $600 balance to be spread amongst the next calendar year.

so instead of the $33.33, your new minimum monthly payment will be $50. your balance will increase $ 8.33 per month to reflect the new interest. pay it off early, save that $ 8.33 times months ahead of the year.

Oh I've been paying it off in full monthly. But now that im going to be moving out on my own and everything and some bigger purchases may need to happen (furnishing an apartment/home) There may be times I would have to pay it off over time.

Hey LTT community.

I have a stupid question that young adults should know but I'm confusing myself. I just want to ask this and make sure for the sake of my sanity.

I understand that APR is the interest rate on the card for a balanced that is not paid for a billing cycle.

So applying for a credit card, it says 0% intro APR for first 15 billing cycles. does that mean hypothetically I buy a $1,000 kitchen appliance. I only pay $500 off. That $500 then is transferred over to the next period and is a $500 balance I have to pay off + whatever balance I have for that billing cycle. Correct?

Then lets say it goes up to 20% APR. It'll be $500 + 20% of that $500 + Balance of that billing cycle?