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aduman

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Everything posted by aduman

  1. @anothertom, after doing some research I have now two options and I need your opinion to decide which way to go to rid my system of noise: . A passive DI box (Palmer PAN04) with the required cables (damn XLR cables really add to the cost lol) - this costs around 100€. I was going to go with DBX DJDI but unfortunately that wasn't available on Thomann. . An iFi iDefender with iPower: http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-idefender3-0/ http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/ Costs the same in total. I would really appreciate your input, thank you in advance.
  2. Again, many thanks for your help. Some people would have ridiculed me for asking a question of that nature but your response was indeed very kind. I'll definitely give that a thorough read, still trying to wrap my head around all the terms. I'll get a DI box and report back here with the results. Have a good one! Edit: After reading that 600 ohms now sound like a measly number lol thanks for sharing it.
  3. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. I also stumbled upon those DI box thingies when I was reading through other threads. Would they degrade or color the SQ in any way? They also have pretty high resistance numbers (600 ohms on most) on the ins and outs. Is that a bad thing? lol As for the usb cables, I don't think I can route them any differently. The front usb header cable is just above the psu but there is no other way it can be routed. Good suggestion though, thanks.
  4. Wait a minute.. When I connect the speakers to the phone and run a game like you wanted me to try before, there is actually the same noise but it is way quieter than before. I just expected the same level of noise and didn't focus properly before. What does this mean?
  5. That's what I've been thinking too. I connected the speakers to the phone, launched a game and no noise or any kind of interference came out of the speakers. I can't fulfill your second request though as I don't have the cables for that, sorry. Is there a way to 'clean' the signal without getting something like a scarlett 2i2? Budget is a bit tight atm.
  6. Nope, I tried to isolate that cable by locating it on top of the desk. The psu cable is under the desk, at ground level.
  7. So I've bought a Fulla 2 to be able to connect both my lsr 305s and hd598s. I'm using it on a desktop pc, connected it through a front panel usb port (USB 3.0/2.0) both cause the same issues.). Speakers are connected with a 2x1/4'' to 1x1/8'' cable to the Fulla's variable pre-amp out. The headphones are fine without any noise at all, however I'm getting a lot of noise through the speakers. There is a constant hum. Moving the mouse also creates a hard to hear high pitched noise. Whenever I launch a game I also get a combination of different types of noises which seems to be parallel to the GPU load. The speakers are basically unusable at the moment. Anyway, here is what I've tried so far to eliminate the noise: I try to run all my stuff through a single power strip so I tried to separate the speakers to another power strip which is connected to another outlet but that did nothing. Tried running the PC directly through the wall outlet and the speakers from a power strip - no dice. Went through all the usb ports, no difference. Opened up the PC, removed the motherboard to check the standoffs for grounding issues, corrected a loose one, again... no difference. I then connected the speakers directly to my phone with the same cable to troubleshoot and there was indeed no hum. Crystal clear sound which is what I'm after. I know I could've gone with optical but fulla was way too tempting for my setup and budget. I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks very much in advance. Btw. I live in Germany so I don't know if a cheater-plug is doable with the plug types here. Edit: This is the cable i'm using to connect the speakers: https://www.thomann.de/gb/cordial_cfy_30_wpp_long.htm Also, would a powered usb hub fix this?
  8. I forgot to add that there were also some bad experiences with the customer support which was the main thing that turned me off. But I won't be dealing with Schiit directly, instead it'll go through the EU reseller in the Netherlands. The point still stands though, there were some who claimed the customer service to be exceptional and then there was a guy who got banned from buying from Schiit lol
  9. @Dackzy, @SSL, @VVoltor I contacted the guys at schiit-europe.com and they told me that Fulla 2 is magically back in stock! Well @SSL called it lol It was an error on the site I guess. Ordered one, thanks for all your help. FYI the Fulla was ironically my first choice, I've just read some scary stories but there were still many satisfied customers. Same with every other product on the planet I guess. I'll just add a Magni later down the road if I ever need one and use the Fulla as a DAC only unit.
  10. Is that just a DAC or does it have an amp built in too? I don't want to double amp. Thanks for the recommendation.
  11. OK then, thanks for the info. Can you recommend another decent DAC that I can get at a similar price point?
  12. Wouldn't be an improvement over what? The Fulla? By ugly stuff I meant these: The volume knob placement, the angle it's sitting at the base (some people received crooked knobs etc.), the screws looking poorly installed, scratching noise while adjusting the volume, channel imbalance at up to around 30% volume and crashing if you unplug the headphones while playing a song are the issues I could remember from what I've read. Of course these all could've been fixed with the newer batches so I'm not really sure.
  13. It's just the dac version. Also made by headnhifi.com not jdslabs mayflower etc. Found it for 60€ which has room for negotiation still, can probably get it for 40-50€.
  14. I also read a lot of ugly stuff about Fulla 2 which kinda steered me away from it. It was actually the first option I considered. Would an objective dac go together well with the Magni?
  15. Tbh. I was just going to go with Fulla 2 but it's not in stock at schiit-europe.com so I thought I'd go this way. I'm going for M2 Uber for the preouts and the usability with cans like 650s.
  16. I have a 598 atm which is pretty efficient but I'll definitely get harder to drive headphones in the future so I just thought I'd get the Magni 2 U and not worry about upgrading later. How about an O2 odac to go with the Magni? I can find them used for around 40-50€ here in germany.
  17. Hi, I'm planning to get a Magni 2 Uber to connect my powered speakers and headphones but the budget doesn't allow me to simply get a Modi and stack them. I was considering getting this little guy: https://hifimediy.com/DACs/Sabre-9018-DAC I'm in germany so Modi costs almost twice as much as this. Would this and Magni 2 Uber go together well or should I consider something else? I'd just upgrade to a Modi later down the road if it would even be considered an upgrade. Thanks in advance.
  18. Pretty excited for this. As a consumer, I'd love me some competition.
  19. 3D Vision only works with Nvidia's glasses, which are active ones.
  20. Agreed... That video broke my heart a little. Don't want to start a shitstorm but there is no way a 780 Ti is on par with a 1050 Ti raw processing power wise. It was performing between 970&980 back when they launched. Can't help but think that there's something fishy going on with the Kepler stuff. Nvidia just stopped caring about Kepler cards imo. which is kind of a big f you to the customers. I mean it was sitting at the throne 2 years ago, shouldn't be performing this bad... Edit: The 780 Ti on that video was running at around 920 Mhz though, which is pretty low and Kepler cards really benefited from oc'ing so gotta keep that in mind as well.
  21. Thank you all for the responses. Really appreciate them! I made my decision, going with the 1070&monitor combo! @nerdslayer1 that video was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks very much again guys. Nice to see that LTT forums is still awesome.
  22. Hello everyone! Haven't posted here in a long time, it's good to be back though. So, I have a bit of a dilemma here. Here's my current build: i7 2600k oc'ed to 4.2Ghz with a Dark Rock Pro 3 cooler. 780 Ti Classified 16 gigs of DDR3 ram. I'm also running an Asus 27'' 120Hz 1080p monitor (VG278H) which is really fast but has terrible PPI. Want to try something different by upgrading to something like an LG 34UC88 ultrawide. So here's the dilemma: I can either get an ultrawide 3440x1440 monitor and a 1070 and just swallow the bottlenecking caused by the 2600k, or I can keep the monitor, upgrade the whole rig and get an i7 7700k, a z270 motherboard and a set of DDR4 ram topped off with the 1070. Both choices would cost just about the same in Germany which is where I live. What should I do? Would really appreciate your input. Thanks! Edit: I forgot the fact that I already have my setup listed in my sig lol
  23. I was thinking of rooting the phone but I'll probably just go with vanilla stuff. TouchWiz seems okay at the moment, it's nıt as horrible as it used to be. I'm not a dslr user or something and don't really know my around the photography thingies so the cameras are both acceptable. Thanks for letting me know though. I really wish I could wait but I'll be back in college next week so I'm pretty much out of luck. How will they power all dem pixels though, 4K on a phone seems a bit crazy for me. Unless for VR stuff, then it'd make sense.Paying for premium prices is the bane of my existence.
  24. Haha I don't use cases on my phones.
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