Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by aduman

  1. I guess I can take the liquid cooled Vega as a reference point since that and the Nitro perform almost the same. Seems like it's faster than the 2070 so I'm thinking I'll keep my order and also get to enjoy freesync in the future.
  2. Alright, I'll take a look at that. I'll be getting a freesync monitor so kinda leaning towards Vega atm. Thanks for the help!
  3. They indeed are. Although I'd undervolt the Vega if I'd go that route. Any ideas on how much faster the 2070 Armor would be compared to an undervolted OCed 64 Nitro?
  4. Hi everyone! I ordered a Vega 64 Nitro for 499€ a couple days ago which also comes with AMDs raise the game bundle (Worth around 60€.). The 2070s came out today and it occurred to me that I can also get the MSI Armor 2070 for 519€ in Germany. I'm planning to get a freesync monitor in the future, not feeling like paying the gsync tax. Should I cancel the Vega order and get a 2070? Appreciate the help, thanks!
  5. I tried them in a Hi-Fi audio store. Don't really know what type of amp was used or if they were being amped at all. I believe there are several versions of 990s. If you don't have an amp get the 80 ohms version. You won't be unleashing their full potential without an amp if you go higher than that. IMO an amp still makes a difference even on the 598s which are very efficient cans. Like I said you can't go wrong with either of these.
  6. @anothertom The stuff arrived today. The noise is gone it's absolutely crystal clear now! Thanks a lot for your help.
  7. I've tried both. 990s are definitely more 'fun' and bassier so lows are more pronounced on these. 598 has the better soundstage, one of the best even among mid-fi cans, more neutral and also the instrument separation is better on these. Vocals also feel livelier-more in your face with 598s. 990s were a bit clampy to me but they probably get better in time. You can't go wrong with either of them. Sorry for the usage of audiophile terms but that's the best way I can describe how they sound.
  8. Alright then. I'll get the Palmer and those cables. Thank you very much for all your help.
  9. Oh I thought those were mic cables and wouldn't work with the speakers, for some reason they are on different categories in the thomann site. I'd buy from Amazon but just wanted to get it all from thomann, they also ship pretty quick and offer great customer service. So it's decided then, I'll get the Palmer. Would those cables work with the lsr305s though? I was looking at these under speaker cables category but they're triple the price for some reason: https://m.thomann.de/gb/cordial_ctl_3_fm.htm?o=17&search=1498755792 There is also a warning there to not use these with active speakers. Which cable would be the right one? Thanks for your response. I realize I've been asking lots of questions so thanks again for being so helpful.
  10. @anothertom, after doing some research I have now two options and I need your opinion to decide which way to go to rid my system of noise: . A passive DI box (Palmer PAN04) with the required cables (damn XLR cables really add to the cost lol) - this costs around 100€. I was going to go with DBX DJDI but unfortunately that wasn't available on Thomann. . An iFi iDefender with iPower: http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-idefender3-0/ http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/ Costs the same in total. I would really appreciate your input, thank you in advance.
  11. Again, many thanks for your help. Some people would have ridiculed me for asking a question of that nature but your response was indeed very kind. I'll definitely give that a thorough read, still trying to wrap my head around all the terms. I'll get a DI box and report back here with the results. Have a good one! Edit: After reading that 600 ohms now sound like a measly number lol thanks for sharing it.
  12. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. I also stumbled upon those DI box thingies when I was reading through other threads. Would they degrade or color the SQ in any way? They also have pretty high resistance numbers (600 ohms on most) on the ins and outs. Is that a bad thing? lol As for the usb cables, I don't think I can route them any differently. The front usb header cable is just above the psu but there is no other way it can be routed. Good suggestion though, thanks.
  13. Wait a minute.. When I connect the speakers to the phone and run a game like you wanted me to try before, there is actually the same noise but it is way quieter than before. I just expected the same level of noise and didn't focus properly before. What does this mean?
  14. That's what I've been thinking too. I connected the speakers to the phone, launched a game and no noise or any kind of interference came out of the speakers. I can't fulfill your second request though as I don't have the cables for that, sorry. Is there a way to 'clean' the signal without getting something like a scarlett 2i2? Budget is a bit tight atm.
  15. Nope, I tried to isolate that cable by locating it on top of the desk. The psu cable is under the desk, at ground level.
  16. So I've bought a Fulla 2 to be able to connect both my lsr 305s and hd598s. I'm using it on a desktop pc, connected it through a front panel usb port (USB 3.0/2.0) both cause the same issues.). Speakers are connected with a 2x1/4'' to 1x1/8'' cable to the Fulla's variable pre-amp out. The headphones are fine without any noise at all, however I'm getting a lot of noise through the speakers. There is a constant hum. Moving the mouse also creates a hard to hear high pitched noise. Whenever I launch a game I also get a combination of different types of noises which seems to be parallel to the GPU load. The speakers are basically unusable at the moment. Anyway, here is what I've tried so far to eliminate the noise: I try to run all my stuff through a single power strip so I tried to separate the speakers to another power strip which is connected to another outlet but that did nothing. Tried running the PC directly through the wall outlet and the speakers from a power strip - no dice. Went through all the usb ports, no difference. Opened up the PC, removed the motherboard to check the standoffs for grounding issues, corrected a loose one, again... no difference. I then connected the speakers directly to my phone with the same cable to troubleshoot and there was indeed no hum. Crystal clear sound which is what I'm after. I know I could've gone with optical but fulla was way too tempting for my setup and budget. I'd really appreciate your help. Thanks very much in advance. Btw. I live in Germany so I don't know if a cheater-plug is doable with the plug types here. Edit: This is the cable i'm using to connect the speakers: https://www.thomann.de/gb/cordial_cfy_30_wpp_long.htm Also, would a powered usb hub fix this?
  17. I forgot to add that there were also some bad experiences with the customer support which was the main thing that turned me off. But I won't be dealing with Schiit directly, instead it'll go through the EU reseller in the Netherlands. The point still stands though, there were some who claimed the customer service to be exceptional and then there was a guy who got banned from buying from Schiit lol
  18. @Dackzy, @SSL, @VVoltor I contacted the guys at schiit-europe.com and they told me that Fulla 2 is magically back in stock! Well @SSL called it lol It was an error on the site I guess. Ordered one, thanks for all your help. FYI the Fulla was ironically my first choice, I've just read some scary stories but there were still many satisfied customers. Same with every other product on the planet I guess. I'll just add a Magni later down the road if I ever need one and use the Fulla as a DAC only unit.
  19. Is that just a DAC or does it have an amp built in too? I don't want to double amp. Thanks for the recommendation.
  20. OK then, thanks for the info. Can you recommend another decent DAC that I can get at a similar price point?
  21. Wouldn't be an improvement over what? The Fulla? By ugly stuff I meant these: The volume knob placement, the angle it's sitting at the base (some people received crooked knobs etc.), the screws looking poorly installed, scratching noise while adjusting the volume, channel imbalance at up to around 30% volume and crashing if you unplug the headphones while playing a song are the issues I could remember from what I've read. Of course these all could've been fixed with the newer batches so I'm not really sure.
  22. It's just the dac version. Also made by headnhifi.com not jdslabs mayflower etc. Found it for 60€ which has room for negotiation still, can probably get it for 40-50€.
  23. I also read a lot of ugly stuff about Fulla 2 which kinda steered me away from it. It was actually the first option I considered. Would an objective dac go together well with the Magni?
  24. Tbh. I was just going to go with Fulla 2 but it's not in stock at schiit-europe.com so I thought I'd go this way. I'm going for M2 Uber for the preouts and the usability with cans like 650s.
  25. I have a 598 atm which is pretty efficient but I'll definitely get harder to drive headphones in the future so I just thought I'd get the Magni 2 U and not worry about upgrading later. How about an O2 odac to go with the Magni? I can find them used for around 40-50€ here in germany.