Norbert V

true. but generally these low powered pcs don't go bad. also they turn on, had the ram and ssd (2gb ssd for 40$ lol - https://www.rutronik24.com/product/transcend/ts2gssd25h-s/7257261.html ) in them so i would assume they're ok. just don't know what to do / how to reset them to at least get some video output even on the igel os to start the process of installing a light Linux on them... oh well, some more e-waste i guess

no tiny pc fans around?

thnx. yeah i know.. i started with the copy thing years and years back and stuck with it but with the new drives i'll use a software solution for sure. thnx for the tip i doubt it's any hidden partition since both drives were new out of the box. never used them for anything else

I got 2 Igel D220 think clients for free at a local electronics recycler. 2gb SSD, 2GB ram and a basic Intel Atom E3815 1.46GHz processor. not much of a machines but i was thinking for running some basic apps in the garage on them. the only issue is i can't get them to post. nothing is showing up on the screen even though i've tried several things i've found on the internets . i can press whatever keys, lan, mouse, monitor keyboard attached. nothing. i'm turning to you guys as you might have some experience and/or can better search the web to find a solution for these things to post?! so far, i've looked at these links and tried them with no result. https://www.parkytowers.me.uk/thin/Igel/ud/ud2/D220/ https://www.parkytowers.me.uk/thin/Igel/ud/ud2/D220/firmware.shtml http://xtl.kapsi.fi/blog.2016-05-25.Debian_on_Igel_thin_client.html https://kb.igel.com/igelos-11.06.210/en/display-settings-in-igel-os-54082675.html https://kb.igel.com/igelos-11.06.210/en/boot-menu-54082085.html https://kb.igel.com/igelos-11.06.210/en/display-settings-in-igel-os-54082675.html - i do have to mention that the machines calls for a 12V 3A power supply / charger. i don't have the original one so i'm using a 12V 1.8A one. i'm pretty sure however that this is not the issue as the power supply (brick) is not getting hot even after several hours of being plugged in and trying to boot etc so i don't think i'm not supplying enough power for it to boot up. also the machine just turns on and is stable as far as i can tell from the front LED indicating power on status. i even tried to boot it with a 12V 1A charger and it also looks like it's booting and is stable

thnx. i don't think cluser size differences would add up to 14 gb... no idea what robocopy is but it sounds scrary. all in all, i'm in need of an upgrade, probably will buy 2 external drives, this time 4TB each and just use the same dumb copy paste onto each drive method just because i'm lazy to learn and cheap to invest in a more simple / robust solution. i wish however i would discover what's the cause here so i can avoid it on my next two drives

still having the same problem. luckily with covid and stuff we've been out travelling less so the drives are full but i didn't need to buy new ones yet. any ideas maybe on what's happening?

this appears in the settings. so i guess i just need to log into the same microsoft account then. i'll do a fresh install on the new drive and see what happens. won't erase the old drive until the new one is up and running. what about the 4 partitions that came with the drive? should i try to move them over?

laptop came with the os on it. i have a Microsoft account but rarely use it. not sure if my license is stored there?! how can i check that? thanks. i'll make a note of it just in case. thnx. will use the official stuff then

no way... so can i just download a copy of win 10 from Microsoft? or any torrent site and i won't need to put in a serial or anything?

my laptop (DELL Inspiron 15 7000 gaming i7-7700HQ, 16gb ram (1 slot still empty), gtx 1050ti ) came with a 128gb boot M.2 SSD . i need to upgrade it however i don't want to loose my windows license. i could do a mirror image to the new drive but i would also like a fresh install of windows 10 as this install is nearly 5 years old and it's seen a lot . it's still holding on, can't complain but i'm sure a fresh install would work better as they do. so any ideas on how to keep the license from the old drive? i don't have access to another PC to mirror the drives or anything like that unfortunately. also do i need to keep all the OEM crap partitions? do they serve any function? (pic attached. this is how the machine came from the factory)

any other ideas fellas?

mainly photos and videos, about 90%. rest is random files but not something that could grow over time. also i access these disks quire rarely. once every 4-6 months. also checked recycle bin for both. they're empty. now that I'm getting close to full on both (as they are 1:1 copies) this difference is getting more and more annoying especially that there's quite a big difference... :/

any other ideas guys ?

disk cleanup shows 0 bites to clean up on both drives. just ran defrag on both. still showing the same values as before.

hi guys, i looked around but couldn't find any topics describing this exact thing. if there is something please point me to it. thanks. so what i'm having trouble understanding why the following is happening. I have 2 identical external HDD drives. both from the same manufacturer. Same capacity, same model etc. One is for storage, the second one is just a backup of the first one. so i just basically copied over everything using windows explorer copy / paste . nothing fancy. every time I add something to the original drive, i add the same thing to the backup drive as well. put it in the same location within a folder etc. etc. now the weird part is that windows is showing me different remaining capacities on these 2 drives even though they have the same files etc. as described. any ideas? thanks