Brownfletching

I just recently upgraded my rig from an RTX 3070 and a regular r7 5800x to an RX 6950xt and an r7 5800x3d. I ran DDU twice before installing the new card (with no internet,) and certain games run fine. I can play Hogwarts Legacy for hours with no issues whatsoever. I can also run benchmarks like Superposition for hours on end with no problems. However, if I try to play Far Cry 6, as soon as I open a pause menu in the game, the entire PC hard freezes. The screen turns green, the speakers/headphones emit a buzzing noise, and then the PC power cycles. I've also had it happen when I was alt-tabbed from modded Minecraft and then went to click back into the game. There is no blue screen, and the event viewer shows nothing related to a system crash. I initially assumed it was the new GPU drawing too much power from my 850W power supply during transient spikes, so I bought a 1000W PSU and went through the trouble of installing it, only to have exactly the same results in Far Cry again. Do I have a faulty piece of new hardware (GPU or CPU)? Could this be a RAM instability issue with the new hardware? What's going on? Edit: UPDATE - I forced it to happen again, and this time it made an event report! A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error Processor APIC ID: 5 There is also a critical error from right at the time of the crash, but it doesn't seem to say anything particularly helpful aside from the source being "Kernel Power."

Summary A new Chinese GPU, the MTT S80 manufactured by Moore Threads, has been benchmarked by video card collector Löschzwerg. It averages between a 3060 and 3060ti in TFLOPs, although the drivers are rough and tessellation is currently broken. Oh yeah, and it can run Crysis. Quotes My thoughts Player 4 has joined the game? Who knows if we'll ever get these in the West, but it seems to have impressive performance assuming the drivers can be fixed. That might be a big assumption though, so I guess we'll have to see. Sources https://www.tomshardware.com/news/chinese-homebred-pcie-50-gaming-gpu-benchmarks-shared https://wccftech.com/it-can-run-crysis-chinese-mtt-s80-the-only-pcie-gen-5-gpu-runs-dx9-dx10-games-well/

FSR will work fine at 1080p just like DLSS will, but you may not be willing to put up with the decrease in visual quality. They both work by running the game at a lower resolution and then upscaling the result. As with any upscaling tech, the amount of detail available in the original, non-upscaled image is critical to the final result. If you're at 1080p native, they're going to run the game at something like 480p for "performance" mode and 720p for "quality" mode, so you'll see a pretty significant drop in quality when using it. The technology still does it's job, the results just aren't as impressive as they'd be at 4k. The 3060ti is better at ray tracing, and when pared with DLSS it can even run it pretty well. You'll see 60fps abd it won't look that bad. That being said, you probably won't want to turn either of those on at 1080p for any competitive game... Looking at raw rasterization performance, they are essentially tied. Some games do better with one, some games do better with the other, but it's usually a difference of less than 10 fps. The other differences are more niche. The 6700xt has more vram, which won't really matter with most games but for some it makes a difference. It will also have full support for all Freesync monitors, while Nvidia technically only supports the "Gsync certified" ones (although many others will also work anyway). The 3060ti meanwhile has a better video encoder for if you want to stream or record gameplay, or edit videos with GPU encoding. The AMD encoder is really pretty decent these days too, just not quite as polished. The Nvidia also has the ability to do RTX Voice, if that's something that interests you at all. At the end of the day, I personally would go with whichever is cheapest, because they're pretty much an even draw across the board, unless one of the proprietary technologies appeals to you.

I marked this as the "solution" because I feel it's the best answer if future people find this thread. Mine has been carried through 1 whole system rebuild and 3 different CPUs over the course of 5 years, so it's probably time for a change.

Your last sentence is my current sentiment as well. 5 years of movement for at least several hours a day seems like a lot, despite the fact that it's not showing any signs of stopping. Risking the rest of my hardware seems like a bad idea, when I can just get a new cooler that probably cools better anyway.

This is more of a discussion question than a pressing matter, but I'm just wondering if there's any consensus on the general lifespan of an AIO. I've got an EVGA clc240 that's been chugging right along since mid-2017, and I've been wondering if I need to think about replacing it at some point before it causes any problems. That line of thinking lead me to wonder just how long these things can be expected to last... Is 5 years a reasonable time to get a new one?

This "2080 Super" just showed up for sale on Facebook marketplace. Everything about it looks fake/extremely generic, so I initially assumed it was just another bios modded scam gpu, but then I noticed the NVLink connectors... Is this a brand I've just never seen before? Or are the scammers getting better at what they're doing? It's not even that good of a price, so I likely won't get hands on with it, but I did ask for a picture of the backplate, so I'll post that if the seller responds... What is this thing? Edit: added photo of a backplate, seller says it "came in a computer he bought" received_1171457303301935.webp

It was not, in fact, the router login. It apparently was/is login for a signal booster that is upstream of the router in the network. When I reset the router, it went back to its default IP, which was already being claimed by the signal booster, so it was conflicting with the router and trying to get me to log in. I got it all to work again after unplugging the signal booster and then setting the router to a different IP.

My internet is handled by a big ranch that I live on in rural Texas. The (very rich) ranch owner paid a lot of money to have fiber optic wired out to the ranch, but my home internet is beamed from the fiber source over an infuriatingly slow (4mb/s) over the air tower. As if that wasn't bad enough, today the Cisco rv042 VPN router went haywire, and I had to factory reset it. I don't have access to the router, but it is not the actual router login that I don't have the password to (see picture). It is some sort of browser-based authentication login, which I don't know what to do with. I've tried every password combination known to mankind to no avail, so my only options now are A) wait up to 2 weeks for the IT guy to come out and fix it, with no internet, or B) find a way around this authentication. The router is reset to default now, so I should be able to log into that no problem, it's just this pre-check. Any ideas?

You are correct, I typed too fast without proofreading lol. Basically, Skylake and newer can't safely supply enough voltage to DDR3 with it's much higher voltage requirements.

Get ddr4, and get a different motherboard that that one. As far as speed goes, pretty much get the fastest you can afford, the faster the better with ram. Just make sure it's compatible with whatever motherboard you choose.

Ok, #1: Skylake and Kabbylake do not support regular DDR3 memory. They support DDR3L memory, which is low profile ram for laptops and compact PCs. Just because that motherboard exists, doesn't mean anyone should use it. Best case scenario, the slower ram will slow down your system and cause lag spikes in games. Worst case scenario, it could actually damage The cpu. #2: The i7-7700k is an overclocking chip, but that motherboard does not support overclocking, so you would be stuck at stock speeds. You should either get a 7700 non-k, or get a Z270 motherboard.

It pretty much has to be the fan(s) on your cooler. There wouldn't be any other moving parts in that area, and something has to move to make sound. There also wouldn't be any coils there, so if you're sure it's not your gpu, it can't be coil whine. If your gpu is also getting hotter, it's probably time to open it up and clean out all the dust.

Don't know why I didn't list it, but it's the MSI z170-a sli (non-plus version)

Alright, here's the deal. I have a gaming/editing system with a gtx 1070, an i7-6700k at 4.5Ghz, and currently 32Gb of Muskin blackline ddr4. The problem is, all that ram is stuck at the stock speed of 2133Mhz. No matter what I do, it won't go any higher without causing instability. It is supposedly rated for 2400Mhz, but even the XMP won't stay stable. I have tried raising the voltage, lower overclocks, even messing with the timings, and nothing will stabilize it with anything over stock speeds. At stock speeds it is rock solid, but I really wish I could take advantage of faster ram, especially with the video editing that I do. I suspect it is either a motherboard compatibility issue, or my motherboard has remnant damage that I was unaware of (I had a 6600k fail massively in this board once). My 2 part question is, #1 is there anything I can do to make the ram I already have overclock? And #2 would it be worthwhile to sell the ram and get a different brand, or do you think my Mobo is shot? Thanks! Edit: The motherboard is an MSI Z170-a sli non-plus.