LapFox

Such a shame. What's the point of adding a great feature when you can only use it when sacrificing another monitor feature. Looks like I'll be able to use a single cable solution if I forgo the 10-bit colour, according to this calculator, assuming I do not use DSC. With DSC enabled I would expect to use a single cable, but I'm yet to see the true visible impact (if any) when it is enabled. I'll find out when I buy the monitor. Two cables is required for 4K 120Hz with 10-bit colour. 8-bit you're correct. Potentially there's some additional overhead for HDR data, I can't find a direct source which says if that data is included with the regular colour space data or if it is an additional stream. Also I absolutely do not intend to use this monitor for full-screen gaming. My intention is to play games at 3440x1440 windowed mode with two thinner screens to the sides. I only play World of Warcraft and maybe the occasional venture into Skyrim. I do still require a new GPU to drive this display at full speed. My current R9 290X has a single Displayport 1.2 output, and a single HDMI 1.4 output. So I'll use the monitor in 60Hz mode until I feel like upgrading.

Hey Guys, I'm very close to buying this absolute beast of a monitor. However, I've crunched some numbers and realised that a single DisplayPort 1.4 connection won't be enough to run the full 5120x1440 @ 120Hz with 10-bit colour enabled. That explains why it has two DisplayPort inputs, I guess. Can Freesync be enabled when the monitor is using two inputs? I was thinking the monitor would be split up into two 2560x1440 120Hz 10-bit panels. Cheers.

Battery saver does a few things in the background, or rather stops things in the background. Things like your Mail app checking automatically, or automatic downloading of new tweets in Windows 10 apps. It may adjust the profile of your Intel CPU slightly, putting it in a 'less aggressive' turbo mode, but that's all it really does. Your laptop contains a 970M - it can't really be turned off since that's probably what's being used to drive the display even when on the desktop. The running power of that will be higher just to keep the chip turned on, compared to the Intel integrated graphics. Not to mention, the designers probably had to make the battery smaller to make room for all that hardware without making the laptop too huge. TL;DR Battery saver can make a difference, but not as big as you might expect.

There's a difference between the disk being used 100% and the disk active time being 100%. Disk active time can refer to the queue of stuff it needs to do. If this queue fills up, then it means that your drive is not fufilling requets to the operating system, which is a common sign of the drive failing. If it's a HDD (you didn't specify if it was a HDD or an SSD) then you can run a surface test on the drive in a different machine to check for failing or dead sectors. If a disk is beginning to build up dead sectors then it's a good idea to replace ASAP.

Welcome to the UK, and also it's really rare RAM. Proper nice though Yeah I think I will go for that, since they're 8GB DIMMS I'm not limiting myself as I am with these 4GB DIMMS. Thanks again!

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I think i'm going to buy some Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP, take off their heat spreaders, and sell my Samsung RAM. (Thanks for the suggestion, HeathCliff) It's a shame really, this is epic memory (And I got it at a great price, £45). Thanks very much guys!

My bad, edited OP. Those are nice suggestions, but they don't fit.

Hey Guys, So I currently have 8GB (2 x 4GB) of Samsung Green RAM overclocked to 2133 MHz. 8GB isn't enough for me anymore, so I wanted 2 more 4GB DIMMS of it, however it seems to be really rare now, so I can't find any more 8GB kits of it (Here in the UK at least). What i'm asking for is suggestions of RAM that also has black PCBs to go with this kit. It'll be running in dual-channel, so they shouldn't interfere with each other as long as they're the same speed and CAS latency, right? Thanks in advance for any help guys. EDIT: Something I forgot to mention, they have to be low-profile due to my CPU cooler.

Clean out that GPU cooler, it's caked in dust. Buy some compressed air and blow it onto the heatsink, that'll dislodge all the dust, and I guarantee temperatures will go down. Also, remove that top HDD cage, and move your current drives into the lower one. If there isn't already two fans in the front of your case, then buy two fans that are the correct size. This way, you have airflow directly onto your graphics card, and also airflow over your drive(s), reducing their temperature and elongating their life-spans. As for buying another 560 Ti? Don't. Just buy a single GPU that does everything you want it to, and then you'll be good to go. Two cards equates to double power consumption, however doesn't always equate to double performance. My recommendation? An overclocked 7870 or a non-overclocked 7950, whichever sits in your prefered price bracket. There is a big difference in performance though, so I always recommend the 7950.

RMA's are annoying, I had to RMA my MSI Z77 Mpower board a few months ago, because of a faulty PCI lane. As long as you've got something to use in the mean time, then the time'll fly by. As a side note, that's a very unbalanced build (Only 4GB RAM, 550TI, yet a 3930K), mind explaining its use to you? If you're going to use it for video editing then you'd need more RAM, and if you're gaming then you'd need a more powerful graphics card AND more RAM.

Wait, you're trying to say that the lights on the motherboard stay on when the system is off? If other people say that they have boards that have this problem, then this is unacceptable for Asus on their high-end RoG series. There should be a BIOS update for it soon, hopefully. Nag Asus about it, and maybe it'll happen.

Chances are, your 660TI is folding also, if F@H is set to full, then it will also start using the GPU. This may cause coil whine on some cards. To stop it doing this, set it to Medium, and it will not use GPU. As far as i'm aware, you cannot reduce / stop coil whine. Your mosfets may be getting hot due to warm air flowing over it, your H80i is exhausting out of your case, right? If that's the case, it might be best to have top fans as intakes, and fronts as intakes also. Then all the air is being pulled to your H80i an over the mosfets. This should also reduce CPU temperature a tiny bit too, but it'll force more cool air over your motherboard.

A Quadro card would accelerate Solidworks Simulation alot, so I would recommend that over an 8 core CPU. You may get more use out of a Quadro card, as you can use it to accelerate other applications too (eg Adobe Suite, 3DS Max).

Goodness me, sorry it's taken me 5 days to reply to you. You don't have to pull any trickery to do it, the driver supports it. All you need to do is install the latest drivers for both cards, and make sure SLI is disabled. The two cards will then be used when needed in their respective situations.

Try another fresh install, it might be that the driver didn't install properly.