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About EdwardERS

  • Title
  • Birthday 1987-08-20

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Xbox Live

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Fontana, CA, USA


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Asrock z68 Extreme3 Gen3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 @1600 mHz
  • GPU
    SAPPHIRE NITRO Radeon R9 380 4GB
  • Case
    Antec 300
  • Storage
    Crucial M4 128 GB SSD, Hitachi Deskstar 1 TB, WD Green 3TB
  • PSU
    Antec BP550 500w
  • Display(s)
    Acer H236HL bid 23-Inch
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Hyper 212+
  • Keyboard
    Logitech Gaming Keyboard G105
  • Mouse
    Anker® CG100 8200 DPI High Precision Programmable Laser Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Realtek ALC892
  1. http://www.eightforums.com/sound-audio/37996-realtek-hd-audio-only-shows-one-audio-output-time.html Can someone confirm that my problem was this feature that I'm used to -- and took for granted -- is not available with ALC887. In that link there's this screenshot from someone claiming to be using 889: The 1 missing feature that I really wanted was "Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously"; this is totally absent from the 887 board while my 892 computer has this. I still say the zombie drivers coming back was making troubleshooting unnecessarily more troublesome. http://www.realtek.com.tw/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PFid=28&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=173 I think the feature is called "multiple streaming".
  2. If there is a way to remove the Asus flavor Realtek HD Audio manager and replace it with the normal one I think the issue would be solved. After numerous uninstalls and reinstalls of the driver package from the Realtek website the Asus version keeps coming back like a undead virus. IDK if there's something in the BIOS to do or not.
  3. I just built a small form factor PC for an uncle. My problem is that I'm not sure if this motherboard I picked is missing a feature that I'm used to or if it's available and I can't find it. My motherboard is the Asus H110I Plus with 8 channel Realtek ALC887. For starters I've noticed that the Realtek HD Audio Manager looks different; now it has an Asus logo on it with a dark gray and blue layout GUI. I'm used to it looking like this: The Asus color schemed one on my PC appears to be missing the "Device Advanced Settings" options. From those advanced settings I can set it so the front headphone jack and rear speaker devices can be listed as separate playback devices. Then if I want to switch between the speakers and headphone it's just a few clicks away under playback devices without any plugging or unplugging. The way it is now the rear speakers and front headphone jack are the same Realtek High Definition Audio default device, they share it. If I pull out the front headphones the real panel speakers will work, otherwise the speakers don't get the sound. I initially installed the audio drivers from the Asus website like the other stuff. I decided to uninstall those Asus audio drivers and to get the ones from the Realtek website in an effort to get the regular HD Audio Manager with the settings I want. In the jumble of uninstalled and reinstalled the regular Realtek package audio drivers I noticed briefly that my rear panel speakers and front panel headphones were listed separately in playback devices, I even switched between them and did sound tests. This was a good sign, but after all the restarts were over the 2 different devices disappeared and everything was the same as it ever was. This stupid Asus GUI Audio Manager keeps coming back and I still see no way to find those advanced device settings. The Asus Audio Manager has a limited option section without the setting I'm looking for near the "About" menu option. I've uninstalled the audio drivers in a effort to get rid of the Asus Manager by using Control Panel, Device Manager and from the Realtek site .exe package. The Asus GUI keeps coming back over and over again. My case is the Coolermaster Elite 110. This seems like a Motherboard/Windows issues.
  4. More details here : https://www.reddit.com/r/musicbee/comments/3xq1my/after_importing_playlists_from_wmp_the_source/ In short, after I import the playlists it looks like MusicBee can't find the locations for the music. I can manually search for each individual song after clicking on it, but it's a long and tedious process especially because the search window opens on the C drive no where near where my music folder is on another lettered hdd. I would think this player would scan for the matching music files to the playlist, maybe it does, but I'm confused about what directory setting I need to alter. I swear I've added all my desired music files into the library through the "Scan Folders For New Files" option, but it's not helping with the playlist tracks getting un-greyed out. I actually uninstalled MusicBee, then reinstalled it. Somewhere in the start up process I clicked on some options and I got it to work for the iTunes playlists. The WMP ones are still broken. I'm using the 2.5.5804, so I'm wondering if because Windows Media player hasn't been updated in so long for Win 7 that the .wpl format isn't supported by this program anymore or if this release is broken. Seems to work okay with making playlists, but importing outside ones are sketchy.
  5. I only have FC3 Blood Dragon on Uplay. Since I just upgraded from a 6870 to a R9 380 last month I thought I'd revisit this game I never got around to playing 2 years ago. I got my copies of Bioshock Infinite and Blood Dragon through an AMD Never Settle bonus from a friends 7850 purchase for a build I did for him. I turned everything up except for AA which I left off, looked pretty good. It's like I can't use AA in any DX11 games without the frames dropping to 30 FPS. I wonder if it's some kinda CPU bottleneck and need to OC from 3.3 Ghz to 4.0+. I had much more modest settings a few years ago with FC3 BD, so this was still a 2x+ upgrade from a 6870. I'd be getting this bundle for Blacklist because it's the only Splinter Cell game I don't have on PC. I damn near payed $30 for some Steam Sale bundle with all the Splinter Cell games 3 years ago. I haven't even tried playing any of those games to this day, yet if the bundle was on Steam I probably would've already taken the $10 one no questions asked. I may have experienced that Uplay patch bug with FC3 BD. I had to wait for some kinda update twice the same day. I understand a 250MB patch after not playing for years, but the second one was less than a MB and hung for no apparent reason the next time I launched it.
  6. Does anyone think MGSV TPP will get expansions like GTA IV, Fallout 3 or Borderlands later?
  7. Which of the games in the bundle would not be compatible with Windows 10? Securom isn't just disc based DRM?
  8. I was thinking of how you can activate Batman Arkham Knight right now if you had a GTX coupon code, but if you wanted to purchase it right now through steam it would be a pre-order or you can't buy it at all.
  9. First of all all those games in the bundle have Uplay DRM, I mean to say they're activated on Uplay and will be launched and played through the Uplay client only. https://www.humblebundle.com/ Why is it that I can't find the original Rainbow Six, Ghost Recon or Rainbow Six 3 listed in the Uplay Store after doing searches? If these games are available through Uplay, why doesn't their store search bring them up? Wouldn't that mean the only way to get these games through Uplay is through this bundle in the first place? I found the Original Ghost Recon and Rainbow Six 3 listed on Steam, but not the original Rainbow Six. I'm confused to why you can't even find these classic games through the Uplay store, yet they're in the bundle. You look up Rainbow Six 3 or Ghost Recon, then the newer games and addons crowd the search results, you look through to see if it's buried, then you can't find it.
  10. If that's how you unplug, what's the order when hooking it up? Would it be switch on PSU, then plug the cable into the outlet? Any opinions on spark sounds from the PSU after switching it ON after the cable is already in the wall? That sound from the PSU is concerning because the surge is closer to the device than it would be from the outlet.
  11. So you have a desktop tower with a 500W power supply. There's an on/off switch on the back of the PSU. The PSU has a detachable AC power cable that plugs into surge protectors or wall power outlets. Let's say you need to move your PC. You click Start > Shutdown, then wait for your PC to turn off and go quiet. Afterwards, what do you do next? Do you simply unplug the power cable from the wall like anything else, what about the On/Off switch on the back of the PSU? When I move my PC, after powering down, I unplug from the outlet, detach the power cable from the PSU so it doesn't dangle, then flip the switch on the back of the PSU to OFF. After moving I flip the PSU switch to ON, attach the power cable, then plug it into the outlet (I do this most of the time). Does it make a difference the order in which plug or unplug the cables? Does the switch on the PSU ever need to be turned off as long as you're not working inside the chassis? The other day I plugged in the power cable to the PSU, then to the surge protector outlet, then I flipped the switch on the PSU because I turn it off while moving. There was this spark noise that came from the PSU, similar to what you hear when plugging in a 2-3 prong AC plug to an outlet sometimes, but it came from the PSU point. Logically it seems like you'd want the spark to not happen at all or happen as far way from the device as possible. If I switched off my surge protector every time I wanted to reconnect a device -- which isn't that often -- I'd have to reset a clock on the desk. What's convenient and safe? What's unnecessary or not safe? When does it matter?
  12. I moved my PC to do some cleaning. I took the GPU out for some dusting, dusted the CPU cooler. I cleaned the dust filters and more or less made some difference. When I went to boot my PC it would POST, then flash entering Windows, then immediately lose signal to monitor. It happens over HDMI and DVI. When speakers are plugged in you can hear that the PC is making it to desktop. The fans on the GPU are humming with both 6-Pin power connectors attached, reset the GPU in the PCI-Express slot, nothing changed. If I hit delete to enter the UEFI BIOS during the POST screen, the BIOS screen flashes, then goes black from no signal. After physically removing the GPU from the PCI-E slot and running the monitor through the motherboard I/O off Intel HD graphics I didn't lose signal, everything was working. I even updated the Intel HD 3000 drivers while I was there. I don't have another GPU to test out. I've been looking forward to an upgrade for around a year, I've had the 6870 for nearly 3 1/2 years since March 2012; originally was released Q4 2010. My GPU had been making some annoying coil whine vibration noise the last few months commonly whether I was gaming or just at idle from having the PC on for 4-5 hours. The temps weren't what they used to be with idle temps now being around 45-50°C and while gaming it got close to 90°C on load. The GPU may have been on it's last legs. Maybe when I took it out to dust it I broken it. IDK. While using the Intel graphics to work on the PC, I went ahead and uninstalled all AMD drivers I could through the control panel. When I try to install the latest AMD drivers with catalyst 15.7.1 it won't let me. I believe I can't install any AMD video drivers because the GPU has been removed from the PCI-Express slot. The predicament is that while my AMD GPU is connected to the PC there's no signal and if I work in Windows under Intel HD I can't add any new AMD drivers. Is my GPU broken, is this a driver issue that's losing the signal? I have an idea to enter the BIOS and set the motherboard I/O to have priority over PCI-Express, shutdown, reinstall the AMD GPU, then reinstall all the AMD drivers from there because the hardware would be recognized by the CCC driver package. Got any ideas? The GPU fans spin, the PC makes it past POST, then flashes a picture momentarily before losing signal.
  13. It's some kinda Phillips-head that I don't have then. It's weird how I was able to remove it before but now I can't. My kit has Phillips drive sizes 1-3. According to wiki there's 0000,000,00 and 0 as well. Size 2 is too large, Size 1 works on the corner PCB screws, then the spring screws can be twisted with Size 1 but not removed. If you or anyone else has some experience with PCB screws I'd like to hear more. I'd assume Phillips Size 0 would do the trick at this point. Would they put more variation beyond Phillips?
  14. The screws in question are screwed into springs in a square formation around the GPU chip, while there are some normal screws on the corners of the PCB. I guess you could call these spring screws retention screws? IDK how to even look these things up. I have a small bit attachment for the smaller than normal Phillips head interface the screws have. The corner screws come out easily, but the ones in the springs won't budge. The screw will turn from the leverage, but the screw won't come up with the tool because the spring is holding it in place. I've tried screwing sideways to have more gravity on my side with no success. I was interested in doing some maintenance for dust and such because I've concluded it's been making excessive noise the past few months and the temps aren't that good either. Maybe I could reapply some paste after 2 years. I actually have done this before on this same GPU 2 years ago, but I didn't have this issue with the spring screws. I wonder if these can get irreparably jammed.