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striker1553

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About striker1553

  • Birthday Dec 31, 1988

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sterling Heights, MI
  • Interests
    Computers, Guns, Trucks, and Country music. What's not to like about that combination?
  • Biography
    I work for a living. I build PC's as a hobby, mostly for myself, and try to learn what I can when I can!
    I love trucks, country music, snowmobiling, and cold beer too!
  • Occupation
    Technical Author - Tweddle Group
  • Member title
    Junior Member

System

  • CPU
    I7 2600k @ 4.6ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte z77x-up5-th
  • RAM
    16gb Corsair Vengeance
  • GPU
    Gigabyte G1 980ti
  • Case
    Corsair 760T
  • Storage
    1TB WD Black, 250gb Samsung SSD, 120gb Samsung Boot Dr.
  • PSU
    OCZ ZT 750Watt
  • Display(s)
    21.5" Samsung BX2250, 24" ASUS VG248QE
  • Cooling
    Custom Watercooling
  • Keyboard
    Ducky Zero Shine
  • Mouse
    Logitech G302
  • Sound
    Creative Soundblaster Titanium HD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64bit
  • PCPartPicker URL
  1. Well I'm at least glad I don't have to pry on the battery to clear the CMOS on this board! Buttons are wayyy nicer. I'll have to try it and see what happens.
  2. Ok, my specs are in my sig. But, I am having an issue with my Gigabyte MoBo and either its BIOS or Windows 10. I have been running a solid 4.6ghz OC with my 2600k for over a year (up from 4.5 since I bought it). So, out of sheer boredom, excitement, the want of a bit more hike in performance for GTA 5, BF4, etc, I decided to dust off the old OC skills and get crackin' on some higher clocks. So, I may just be having some problems with my settings, or perhaps I'm missing something, but in my GA-Z77X-UP5TH I remember leaving everything on Auto except for my BCLK, CPU clock, and Vcore. I bumped my settings to 100BCLK 4.8 Frequency 1.38v I boot up windows 10, fire up Prime95, Realtemp, and CPU-Z (for S's and G's) and great temps (65C), 100% load, and... wait... 4.6ghz? Reboot, recheck, 4.6. Default settings, re-config, retest. 4.6 Try any number of performance changes from auto to Turbo, Ex Perf, etc. 4 POINT MF'ING 6!!!!11!!!!111!!! Am I missing something? The only thing I haven't tried was resetting to defaults and rebooting (RAID, Intel Rapid-Start, Pagefile, etc all on different drives makes me nervous here).
  3. I was just looking at the newest intel processors, I thought perhaps that would be nice, but I suppose my old Sandy-Bridge can keep going for a while.
  4. Well, if you view the specs of my system, I'm running my old 2600K at 4.6ghz at 1.345 volts. She won't do 4.8 without huge voltage and temp increases to ge there on water. She's still running as if she were brand new, and I've never had an issue. I guess the age-old question is: Since I upgraded to a 980ti, am gonna go through the trouble of water-cooling that beast, before I tear into the water-tubes, and case, shall I swap out the mobo/cpu for something newer?
  5. My pc parts are listed in my signature. I'm looking to upgrade to perhaps a 780ti in sli or just one card. Not sure where or how much I could sell my two 670's for. But, would you upgrade the cards now? My cpu doesn't take advantage of PCIe 3.0, but it hits a solid 4.5ghz OC and holds it stable for everyday computing and gaming at low temps (around 70F). Also, would I need to upgrade my PSU for 780ti's? I would pan on low-power fans replacements as well as a second radiator for for the two cards. I'm thinking universal gpu coolers and video ram heatsinks with the side fan blowing at 1/2 power. Thoughts?
  6. See my theory on the waterblocks is save some cash. But who knows when Maxwell will actually be out so just do it and deal with it later u suppose...
  7. Okay, I'm curious to get your guys opinion on whether or not I should finish my watercooling to cool my GPU's with the alphacool Nexxxox 670 waterblocks or just sell them and upgrade to the 800 series when they release. I've wanted to watercool these cards for quite some time, but since they are no longer in the running for high-end gaming, I'm debating if I should just hold off on finishing it. Read my sig for my specs. Maybe I'd best be served by upgrading my 60hz monitor to the Asus 144hz that can tap Nvidias G-sync...
  8. Well, I do ahve to agree that CS is a good game, I also did really enjoy Tomb Raider,etc.
  9. Well, I don't have a lot of time to game anymore, but I may end up keeping it if it's not worth it to sell. Plus, I suck at FPS's (BF4, I'm level 11 and can't keep up with everyone that has no life), and that's what I like to play. So, if I don't have any fun playing those games, then why keep it?
  10. What's the best way to figure in pricing for a gaming pc? I'm talking selling everything: Monitor, Mouse, Keyboard, Headphones, etc as well at the PC itself My specs are in my sig, however, I have no way to gauge what the worth of my PC is, or would even be considered on the used market. Of course, I'd most likely sell it without the hard drive. Anyone know of an online calculator or soemthing that I could gauge a good price to sell mine for?
  11. I guess I'm that guy lol. But, I'm slowly upgrading my components to match my pc. Next purchase is a new 120hz monitor and the waterblocks for my 670's.
  12. Call them and ask for the person who emailed you and explain the situation. If he refuses to help keep asking for superiors until you get what you want. Be that guy and it will go one of two ways. Well or you're SOL. Savvy?
  13. Reseat your memory, check all your connections, reseat your video card and any other cards. Most likely your case flexed when moving it and you have a loose connection somewhere.
  14. Well I'm using an xspc rasa water block with an rs240 radiator and 4 fans in push pull. I also used a bead if arctic silver five the size of an uncooked grain of rice.
  15. Well I was close to stable with 1.52v at 5.0ghz but I would bsod with 0x124 after 10 minutes of prime95 small fft's. So my chip blows oc balls. Lol
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