Ishumi

Drive issue solved, kind of. I apologize if this gets a smig rambly as I wish to provide a fuller picture at least on this one part. I post this for anyone else hunting in these forums for the 3TB+ drive not being fully seen issue. If you have data on the drive, I'm sorry but this won't be the fix you're hoping for. To outline again my own issue. I took a external drive that used to have a windows 7 OS system made backup, out of its enclosure because I couldn't find its stupid proprietary USB cable. Putting the drive directly into my PC, it was not seen even after a reboot and a full power cycle. I don't know why. It -was- detected via a Sata/USB adaptor I borrowed from my father. While already being seen as a GPT drive, it had no drive letter assigned and only showed one 746GB unallocated volume through Drive Manager, and another small 128MB volume via Aomei Partition Assistant.. [some random freeware I found in conjunction with their backup tool when I googled top 10 backup tools because I didn't want to deal with Window's built in one again.] Now anything I Googled said stuff about updating Intel Rapid Storage Technology driver/program.. mine wouldn't update despite using versions that listed the C600 controller chip my board has, if that includes you then those are versions 14.8 and older. That said I did realize my version was one different, RTS Enterprise, and two 32bit. I believe, perhaps, the installers of the non Enterprise versions where trying to load the 64bit due to 64bit OS.. I've not tried installing the Enterprise version as it mentioned requiring a F6 driver install method and it so happens I don't have any USB keys laying around like I used to back in College, and the wording of ReadMe.txt on the process made this sound like something only doable during a OS install. I decided I had nothing really left to lose with the drive, I was intending to wipe it anyway to backup my current Win 10pro (1703) system. I created a new volume with the 746GB volume & a NTFS format. After this, remembering somethings I'd seen on the forums about Intel RTS; I reconnected the drive to directly to my PC's mobo (yay hotswap bays), and rebooted. The drive was seen and a 2TB unallocated volume showed up. Using Drive Manager I deleted the fresh volume I had just made allowing the full 3TB to unallocated then formated the whole thing into a NTFS Volume. I hope this helps anyone else with this issue, I'm sorry I don't have a fix that retains retrievable data on the drive. ~Umi

Thanks for the reply. When I spoke of age I was speaking on core system related updates such as the Intel Rapid w/e. Cuz I still can't get that to update and that's the only online solution I've found as to why the drive isn't being seen fully. Which brings back to that issue, the drive is set to GPT as shown in the images I shared. Is there anything else I can for the drive to get it to work? I've not tried formatting the volume that can be seen yet, I was concerned that might make the issue worse somehow. Now as for windows, the primary reason I delay a feature update 5 months is I rather not get caught up in all the problems they almost always have in the first few months. I have only the machine, no means of doing overhall or large replacements, so my goal with it is stability and a fresh off the press version does not tend to that. I'm comfortable upgrading to 1709 if I have too but would rather wait till aug or so for 1803. Thanks for your time ~Umi

Hey forum, hope things are faring well for you. I'm coming for help with a two core issues, one lead to another to another and they all link back to the start so I'm hoping someone can give me a hand. I've put a 3 point summary at the end as well. Lets get specs out of the way first. Windows 10 Pro 64bit, Creators update 1703. all uptodate so says windows. Alienware Aurora R4 Dell branded mobo x79 Platform with some daughter board managing all the front IO an stuff. (A11 Bios, there has not been an update to the Aurora R4's bios in years) i7-3930K @3.2Ghz 6 Cores with intel turbo w/e boost up to 3.49Ghz across all. 4x4GB DDR3 Sticks of Dell Branded. (16GB 1600MHz) nvidia GTX 680 2GB (looks like a reference card) 1 500GB seagate 7200RPM Boot Drive, Sata 2 1TB seagate 7200RPM Data Drives, Sata 1 3TB western digital "caviar green" Sata [Not showing full size] Currently connected via Sata/USB tool. No Raids of any sort. Dell PSU 800W I think. As noted I'm still on "Creators" 1703 of windows, my "Feature update" delay setting has ticked over and PC wants to install "Fall Creators" 1709. Core Question 1. Do I update at all to 1709? | 1703 I believe continues security updates into Spring of 2019. With all the horror stories I'd heard of 1709 update I wanted to do a system backup to have a "Safety net." Got out 3TB Western Digital MyBook 3.0 but was unable to find the stupid version of USB it uses or its power adaptor. I took the HDD out of its enclosure and connected it directly to my PC's 4th bay, Not detected - even after reboot. Tried 3rd bay, removing 1 working data drive (L), still no show. put working data drive back. Used a Sata/USB tool my Father had. | Hardware & Drive Manger's see the drive, but only an unallocated 746GB. AOMEI Partition Assistant, sees another small 128MB segment. Images in spoiler. Lots of googling latter, people saying either of the following. Update Intel Rapid storage technology. Legacy Bios machines can't use 2TB+ drives without UEFI. my Bios is indeed "Legacy" and not UEFI so if this is true then 3TB+ internal drives are up in smoke. In my attempts to update Intel RST, primarily with 14.8 or lower as those ones still list Intel C600 Raid chip support, I've been meet with "Platform not supported" Image in spoiler. Yet I have an old version of this installed, Intel Rapid Storage Technology Enterprise 3.[other numbers] x36bit. I'm wary of uninstalling this as on the whole I don't know what it does for me being present as I -do not- have any Raid setup. However there is no way to get it back from Intel's official site. Core question 2.| Bother any further with this drive business? Would buying a new External be any different? I used to be able to see all 3TB with the WD The drive had had a Windows 7 system made backup on it last I used it, could that play a part? Summary. Old system. Everything is reported as "uptodate" however, age may be preventing newer versions/compatibility. Do I upgrade to 1709 at all? I rather not get caught up in a double version jump right into 1803, my update settings are set to "Business branch" + 100 days. Chasing my tail with this drive bs.. I want it fixed for any future larger than 2TB drives but goodness its ticking me off. Thank you for your time, really do appreciate it. ~Umi. In case we solve anything I'm adding search lines here so others can find it easier as I couldn't find anything when I searched. 3TB Drive not showing 3TB Drive only showing 746GB

Updated tittle to better reflect topic.

I was having some pops/hisses/cracks in -all- my audio regardless of source for a while, I ran through SSL's guide and also looked at few other posts and updating my Logitech Gamimg software that controls/manages my G13 keypad and G600 Mouse oddly fixed the issue. If you have that program I'd try updating it and see if it does anything. If not, back to what SSL said.. as I've utterly no knowlage beyond that updating the LGS fixed my own problem, somehow.. maybe it injected atom sized unicorns into my pc's electrons. ~Umi

First off, would like to say thanks for the help thus far With a clearer head like to go over things again, why I always post things so late at night I've no idea.. I've found some ear pads and a headband wrap that think might be good for w/e I get, never 100% liked fabric ear pads, hard to clean, and leather tends to crack if they get to warm, my room can be semi sauna like due to the air flow of the house (it hell.. even with a window fan trying to get rid of it all) Now in terms of cost, the 612sUS are bit cheaper thanks to my amazon US gift card but won't give me a quote on shipping and I'd rather them not come via UPS have had way to many things damaged by them in transit. the HD280s are a bit more on the "reasonable" end of my budget from the Canadian source HD280Pro but have no US Amazon counter part, mater of fact Sen has practically nothing that ships to Canada from US Amazon lol. I am still a bit concerned about build quality on the 280s reviews have noted cracking and stress/fracture lines developing in the plastic. A friend of mine has pointed out that as I'm likely not going to be pulling the trigger on anything till June after my Birthday, and thus will likely have 100 to 200 rough estimate more of a budget that in her opinion I "should" just go with the Sennheiser GameOnes, the open back with integrated mic. Or Astro A40/MixAmp TR. Which of course lead to an argument over price inflation for "game" products and such but the reviews on it are pretty good.. and it would reduce some of the hassle but I'd rather quality product an deal with velcro warping some cables together into a braid than inflation. Would still like to hear other's thoughts on the product. One snag is the DAC/AMP the Schiit Fulla has no canadian sorce I can find at current, the USA amazon will not ship it to Canada leaving direct purchase from Schiit. The end cost is 111.62 USD.. which leads to the exchange at 150 or so CAD.. not including any dings at the border which heavily reduces it's appeal For that price I could more easily get a FiiO E10K and while which one is "Better" is subjective. Which one would I need isn't as so subjective, I do need one due to trying to use anything non digital on the PS4 and I'm aware the AKG612s require an AMP to be powered properly, I don't think the HD280s need an amp but wouldn't hurt.. Finally Mic. I am still interested in the ModMic I'm still confused as to which one would probably be the better choice and if the inline mute is worth the potential fault/brake point.. I would like the convenience but dislike things braking and I do take care of my equipment but daily wear tear is not somthing that can be overall utterly removed. Simply taking a headset on/off adds stress to it's joints for example. So what other options are there? @Octavialicious said their exprence with it was poor and that something else would be better but didn't give ideas as to what besides a desk mic. I've seen some low cost "Starter kits" on Amazon that include more streamer/broadcast looking set up stuff, mic arm, condenser mic, etc.. but I honestly don't do any streaming or twitch at current, I'd love to but my shity net barely has 1mbps upload and that will not cut it for that.. let alone I'm not sure what I'd stream lol. Doubt people would want to watch me spend 12+ hours running around like a lost pup in Black Desert trying to manage adhd on the exorbitant amount of content that world has. Thanks again for your time. ~Umi

mono in with stereo out thats.. interesting. as the others have said. RCA jacks.. think the Modi has RCA output option but ya. as mentioned, again you'd only be able to connect one jack to one input.. So unless that thing can mix mono inputs 1 and 2 for example, into a stereo output.. you'd only get "simulated stereo" where the w/e channel right or left, you put into input 1 would get doubled up for output.

Hmm atm the K612's are most of my budget not even including shipping. and it was echoed in one of the vids I watched on them that the band can be a bit hard, any suggestions on a wrap or somthing that might snap/clip around it to soffen it up? As it stands its 3am so my thinking is starting to say go to bed but my current train of thought follows K612s opencans of interest HD280 Closed cans of interest, bit worried bout plastic build quality and potential cracking. Amp/Dac Schiit Fulla Mic: Modmic still option but open to others as per Octavialicious's input on them. Other items: Optional replacment ear pads/band pads? easy to clean yet comfy. Do either of these need burn in? what would be best to use for that having never done it? Will check this again when I get up sometime round Noon ish PDT. ~Umi

I do have my PS4 set up to run off my center monitor of a 3 monitor set up so a desk mic could probably be used, though again the question of how, compatablity, what mic and other hardware might be needed comes up. Headphones: I've tried my Dad's M50Xs and they were pretty nice but wasn't to fond of the pads on those for some reason. The K612s did catch my eye but again do worry about the "Self adjust" head band. 990's can be harsh on the treble? hmm. rather like to keep my ears functional for as long as I can lol. the 700x also get good reviews an comments but those.. wings.. I've read those can be amazing or absolutely horrid depending on your head size. DAC/AMP I don't mind reaching over and swapping out what USB cable is plugged into the unit, quite simple to leave a cable from pc and ps4 near it, both are right next to another. my desk is a bit of a L with the short side on the right so ┐ like that... if it shows up lol. either way both hardware items in question are within arms reach of my right hand and as mentioned to Octavialicious, my ps4 takes over my center main monitor when its in use via a HDMI selector box. My PC has both Optical and Coax digital out, the PS4 has Optical and does support most USB things long as there isn't any special driver it needs. I've heard lots of the Schiit stuff works on it for example, as does a headphone/mic to usb dongle I'd seen someone else post about, and my GSkillSV700's are USB only. The FiiO E09K is out of stalk on Canadian Amazon. Which just a reminder is where I'm from and my Dollar's current exchange to US is very very very crappy. ~Umi

Thats the bottom line ya. Edit: lol I should do this when bit more awake. The ModMic for voice input of course, it would be nice if that could go into what ever unit the headset is going into at least when it comes to the pc end, my front mic jack is broken (and sounded like grabage). I think the Modmic words off the ps4 controller though I'm not positive and while the USB dongle thing I have left from the broken PS Silver headset would take mic, it also over-rides the PS4 audio options and prevents selecting a diffrent output. ~Umi

Hi Forum, As the tittle suggests I'm coming to you all today to get my audio options sorted out. I've read quite a number of the threads posted around already and have found them very informative however I felt best to simply ask directly for help. I hope you can forgive my noobness if I get terms and such wrong.. Budget: around 250-ish CAD max (plus I have a $50 gift card to Amazon USA that can be used as well). Please keep in mind.. Canadian to USD is laughable at current. Systems of use: PC & PS4 Current Desktop speakers: Corsair 2.1 SP2500 (LOVE these) used as daily when no one else home, plugged into 3.5 from MB back port. Current EarBuds: Apple Ear Pods, Xmas gift, using off of the headphone jack on the SP2500 as daily driver, ears do however get unhappy with them during extended use.. ie weekend when family is home a lot. Current Headset: G Skill SV710 was a birthday gift last June. Currently only used on PS4 for short gaming runs in Destiny with friend. See spoiler for more info Hardware experience: I'm used to typical closed back, normal dynamic driver headsets, likely with a the standard V in their tuning, I would like to try open back for the positional sound in gaming and movies (and hearing when called for by house mates from my far off corner room.) it'd be nice to find something a bit on the analytical side where they still have a slight "fun-ness". I do like a "decent" base and enjoy feeling it but I can't say I've ever experienced "Tonal" base. Edit: Software Experience: I do have "Razer Surround Pro" but mostly use it just for the voice clarity bump and an EQ at current. Music: I listen to a wide range of music but at the end of the day I always end up gravitating back to the host of sub generas under "Electronic" but also enjoy softer or more "epic" scores with strings and full orchestra arrangements, and the best of course being a mix of the two with some lovely female vocals. non vocal example of a track I enjoy: Overwork - Canon the playlist is also mine to get a further sample of some of my random taste. And yes, youtube is my primary source of music these days set to 720P at minimum, the audio I have on my PC ranges from MP3 320Hz to some FLACs and ALACs but If there is a 320 MP3 option I go with that usually, save on HDD space. Gaming: A lots of action fps, adventure stuff, PS4: Destiny. PC: Black Desert Online, Tera, Warframe, Wild Star, Guild Wars 2, Tomb Raider, Fortress Craft Evolved, The Long Dark. Movies: mostly action stuff, hard to really quantify when lot'a movies these days are one, over Netflix for me, and two have the most wacky range/inconsistencies in their own audio as a source, Star Trek reboot anyone? Interstellar? The Martian? ... turning volume up/down constantly is such a pita. Current research, from videos and other reviews I have complied the following ideas. Most of these were taken from Tek Syndicate videos, bit dated but many of these sets where echoed in suggested posts here. Mic: Antlion ModMic, would like the inline mute but concerned its a potential point of failure. Not sure if I'd need Omni or Uni directional. Do not have mechanical keyboard but it can be a bit clicky, do have fans in room that can be bit loud ish. if there is away I'd very much like to beable to hear myself when talking, this stems from my exprence with closed backs and them raising my voice in volume to much for latenight gaming. I used to have a Pair of Trittons and had voice feedback or mic monitoring and it did a very nice job, no lag. I don't know what is out there that would allow this. an AMP/DAC with Mic Input? the hard part being would it pass voice over usb to the PS4 or PC? Logicly that makes sense it would if it had it but finding such I've had little luck with. Headphones. all of these are open and of intrest though I'm conserned about the "Wings"/"Self fit" band. Superlux HD668B Audio Technica ATH AD700X Beyerdynamic DT990 AKG K612 Pro. Closed options Monoprice 108323 Audio Technica ATH M40X Sennheiser HD280 Removable/replaceable pads/band/cable would be a plus. And suggestions on replacements, I'm used to fake leather or w/e its called on the most main stream headsets, never found them to warm honestly but something cushy yet supper easy to clean would be awesome. DAC/AMP Combos I've found but don't have Mic input. Shitt Fulla Fiio E10X That's all I got really. Again it would be nice to have headest/modmic cable go to one box that then goes via usb to PC and PS4 that I either swap manually or get a switch for which is apparently something that is made now lol. I do have a USB dongle left over from a broken PS Silver headset, dongle works nice in terms of headphone/mic combo input and provides voice feed back but volume wise is very iffy can jump suddenly or spike in the highs to the point it hurts. Wouldn't mind the headphones being able to work off my Samsung Note 4 but I rarely listen to music off of it unless in bed an need'n some'n calming... like a rain/thunder storm from Rainy Mood. Thanks for your time all. ~Umi

Thanks for your help guys Will let ya know how it goes.. if things work out lol. ~Umi-chan

Thanks Titan that would cover the audio for sure. Still need display cable options.. I maybe a DMI KVM? use a HDMI to DVI cable into one of the KVM inputs, the other takes my video card? NCIX didn't seem to have any KVMs for under 20..

Hi Aniallation, thanks for the reply. Could you please elaborate? The PS4 doesn't have any native RCA audio jacks so I'm not sure how that works. Does it come with something that allows this?

Hi Forum, So I'm looking at getting a PS4 by more or less hocking all my 360 stuff, first gen xbox stuff and probably ps2 hardware an select tittles. The crux is, my tv and my monitors don't have HDMI and if the above works.. there is very little chance I'd have enough towards something with HDMI I'm looking for what might be the best conversion option, for the lowest cost. my 3 Samsung SyncMaster 215tw have DVI Dual link, Component (RGB), and VGA. They are 1680 by 1050 native and run at 60Hz I'm aware that there are direct HDMI to DVI-D cables but most don't offer RCA sound jacks. I do plan to use the Optical out put for sound.. assuming my friend ever sends me the headset he said he was gonna lol. As such the RCA sound is more for redundancy/backup. It would be nice to keep the signal digital, but all my monitors are using the DVID jack, I've tried searching for a switch or splitter but not sure if the PS4's standby/sleep mode continues to put out a signal. If that option isn't viable then would Component or VGA be the next best thing? And how might I go about converting to such. Thanks for your time. ~Umi