Alec M

I just tried BIOS flashback without the CPU installed, and then put it back in after. Still doesn't work.

Yep, I tried that. I don't think it's a CMOS issue It just won't power on at all. Nothing works besides removing the CPU. I think this board has a CPU less BIOS flashback, but IDK if that would help.

I have had both this CPU and motherboard for about 3 years with no major issues so far. In the last month I'd had 1-2 BSODs where the message said something about CPU power delivery errors. Today after I replaced the RAM I had in it with some new Trident Z RGB ram I bought. It booted for a few seconds, seemed like it was going to post (screen went from no input to black) and then restarted with no post. After that it booted again, the RGB lighting on the ram turned on, and then a second later the whole PC shut off. I tried powering it on a third time, and this time it would power on for about half a second, lights would flash and whatnot (00 displayed on the 8 segment) and then it would instantly shut off. I tried the old ram, a different PSU and even no RAM. The only thing that worked to get the board to turn on without seemingly dead shorting the power supply was removing the CPU. After doing that the board powered up normally (albeit without a CPU). What I'm wondering is, is this more likely the motherboard, or the CPU? It seems like it could be either, since there might be a short in the CPU power delivery circuitry, or the CPU could be dead shorted. Either one is expensive to test replacing (~$250 for a new motherboard and ~$290 for a new cpu), but which one is more likely? Also does anyone think the RAM might've killed it? I tried plugging the RAM in too with no CPU and its RGB turned on. Thanks, Alec

Yeah, those are getting closer and closer to retro every day Still plenty usable though

Not retro at all IMO

I recommend Solidworks, Autodesk Inventor, or Fusion 360. Inventor and Fusion are free if you're a student.

This is a great collection of standard motherboard form factors with all kinds of useful info. https://grabcad.com/library/generic-atx-matx-mitx-thinitx-motherboards-1 Often the way I get the PCI-e slots on the back of the case right is by finding a model for the size of GPU that I want, and mating it to the inside of the slot on the motherboard with all the proper constraints.

It's super easy to find 350-450w PSUs for free though...

I pretty much just used some 1/2" and 1/8" plywood I had laying around. As for screws, I recommend Kreg screws with pre-drilled holes around 1/8" or less. There are practically no brackets in it, since the front and back are held in with slots cut into the plywood with a table saw. The only brackets are the two tiny blocks of wood to hold the GPU. A great way to hold the motherboard on is by threading standoffs into holes drilled into the wood where you need them to be. Sadly I didn't take any pics while originally building it. I'll see if I can find pictures from when I installed watercooling. IMO building cases out of wood is pretty easy, but you do have to watch out for screws stripping out. If that happens, put a little bit of hot glue in the hole that stripped out, and screw it back together before the hot glue fully hardens

Should be possible. CAD software really helps when it comes to something like this, and Google Sketchup isn't a bad option, it just takes a bit to get used too. I did something similar for a desktop I made for my brother a few years ago. It wasn't in a server form factor, but it was necessary, since it had a really weirdly shaped supermicro board inside. Using PCI-e extenders saved my plan, since the GPU would've run into components on the board. Also, another mistake I made when I designed it was a lack of airflow through the case. I had a 140mm vent at the front, which I used for a radiator later on, and a 80mm vent at the back. Some chips other than the CPU towards the back started getting really hot, since the motherboard was originally designed for a 1U server with air flowing over the whole board constantly. I ended up solving this by mounting several fans inside to blow on the back part of the motherboard where the other hot parts were, and added an extra 120mm fan on the bottom. Thankfully the hexagonal mesh on the front that wasn't for the 140mm fan kept it from being a complete disaster.

Yeah, touchscreens are totally overrated for photography, especially if they aren't implemented well. Redundant SD card slots are really nice too. I overlooked that when I was looking through the specs on the D750.

Sorry for not seeing your message, I was away for a while. I probably should've let you know. Glad you got it working though!

Yep, just wipe the USB drive, and then you're good to go.

Go to the support webpage for your motherboard, whatever company it's from should have drivers for the network adapter. You can just load them onto a USB drive on some other computer and then run them on this one.

Awesome! I'm glad you got it working!

Lol, I ran into the same problem when I first got a watercooler. I did some super jank stuff though, my fans were on the outside of the case. Never even thought to use zip ties XD

I'd go with the D750, since you'll get better looking images from not only the higher sensor resolution (24.3 vs 20.9MP), but the larger sensor will also have less noisy images, and will generally look cleaner. The ridiculous extended ISO on the D7500 is kind of pointless, since you won't get images that look very decent, especially with noise reduction. IMO anything higher than 12800 on modern consumer cameras starts to look weird even if you aren't pixel peeping.

Yeah, I'd try restarting it. 64 bit is what you want, so that's fine.

Nope Did you select 32 bit or 64 bit when you made the installer? Also, you might want to check you BIOS's UEFI boot settings and set them to UEFI only.

Out of curiosity, have you looked at the used market for computer parts? Decent used GPUs can be found for very little these days (around $30 on eBay), and if you have a scrapyard or recycling center near you, they might be willing to let you take/buy stuff from them, since they don't make too much off circuit boards unless there's a fair bit of gold on them. You'd be surprised at what people throw away/recycle. I've found some ridiculous stuff at a scrapyard near my grandparent's place. I got a working Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 and a 600W Semi-Modular PSU plus a few other things there for only $8 once. There's no reason that you shouldn't be able to play awesome new games when they come out, it just takes a bit of poking around to find the right places to get components at a good price. I have a friend who bought a new GT 650 a few years ago off amazon for around $120, and he didn't realize how terrible that price was until I showed him used GT 650s on eBay for about a fifth of the price. Just a thought. I don't want to dis what you said, but a lot of people don't realize how easy it is to get computer parts far cheaper by looking for used ones. -Alec

No problem

Original post: They said "get to windows", not "get windows", and they already have a product key, as their post states.

Do you have any way to install windows 10 on it such as a USB drive with the Windows 10 installer on it, or a DVD? If not, you'll want to run the media creation tool on another computer running windows, and set it to install to a USB flash drive. Link: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Nope, That's the point of the preapplied stuff :)

Sounds good!