Drexl

So I can't find a way to change this on a per-display basis, but using a 3rd party clear-type tool I changed the font rendering to BGR. It does improve the text on the TV, but only a little. Of course it's now worse on my main display, to the point that I'm actually getting a headache while trying to type this (probably for the same reason chromatic aberration gives me a headache in games). In any case the issue seems to be more than just the sub-pixel layout. The text when >30hz is more jagged. Almost like it's not getting AA applied to it, but worse. I've seen non-AA text and it's not that.

This made me literally laugh out loud. I actually want to try it, but this TV it too expensive for that. I'll mess w/ the font settings. I know I've heard this before, but had forgotten about it. Thank you for the advice.

I'm mirroring my primary display to this TV for couch gaming. At any resolution I have terrible text rendering on the QN90a when run at higher than 30hz. What I've tried: 1080p, 1440p, 4k, 3440x1440 (resolution of my main monitor. TV natively supports it w/ letterboxing) Extending the display rather than mirroring. Enabling/disabling/experimenting w/ ALL the various picture settings of the TV. Enabling/Disabling game mode. At 1080p it was hard to tell the difference between 30hz and 60hz, but also it's 1080p on a 65in display so it looked like garbage regardless. It's a long run so I'm using HDMI over Ethernet, but the transmitter and receiver support HDMI 2.0, 4k@60hz, and 18Gbps. I don't know for certain what spec the HDMI cables, but they have "ethernet" printed on them so I think that means at least 1.4, and I'm fairly certain they are 2.0. In any case 1440p (one of the resolutions I tested) should be fine at 60hz (also tried 50hz), but text still looks like crap until I switch to 30hz. I also know chroma subsampling isn't the issue because Windows reports both displays running in RGB mode. Any ideas? Thanks! ^_^

I replaced the AIO w/ an air cooler. I can tell the air cooler is putting a LOT more pressure on the CPU. Temps are finally reasonable (40c idle, 60c in games). It's a shame I bought two of the Galahad and both are having issues. I won't make that mistake again.

The one at the bottom right of the image you posted. Where the H & J are depicts how I have it mounted. Try as I might I can't screw those in any more than they already are. >_<

Thanks for the reply. It's a real shame if I can't just improve on the mounting solution. I'd also assume I'm well past RMA territory (purchased Dec 2020), but I can look into it. I wish I'd noticed sooner. Since building those two systems I moved and bought a home. I can't currently justify replacing it with anything comparable (or matching the white aesthetic either probably). It's not in the budget. I have 3 different TC brands sitting around from when I originally bought the parts. I think I re-pasted it with the Noctua brand. I can try getting a cheap air cooler and new paste I guess and hope for the best. My wife says I have a legendary ability for getting refunds beyond the warranty period, so I'll give RMA a shot.

Board: ASUS Prime x570-Pro CPU: Ryzen 5 5600x Cooler: Lian Li GA240A Galahad 240 Silver AIO I'm idling around 70c in BIOS, and typically getting around 90c in games. I've built two exact copies of this system and both have high temperature issues. All the fans and the pump appear to be functioning as best I can tell. It's probably been this way since I built the systems actually, but I didn't pay it too much attention and it's not caused issues until very recently (still minor for now). I re-pasted the CPU on one of the machines and that improved it enough to prevent issues in games, but obviously 90c is too high. My best guess is that crappy two-point mounting system is the issue. It's probably not getting even/enough pressure. However, I'd love to entertain other opinions, and would chiefly be interested in learning: is it possible purchase a better mounting solution for this hardware?

I have a portable monitor that I'm quite happy with other than that it turns off entirely shortly after the PC is locked has been idle for awhile. I have it connected to power from the wall constantly so I would rather it didn't do that as I have to fix all my windows each time I turn it back on. Is there anyway to prevent this behavior? If it matters I have it connected via mini DP for the video signal, and USB C for the touch functionality. Power again is coming from yet another cable () going to the wall. So far I've tried preventing USB devices from powering down when the computer goes to sleep in power settings.

I don't like the CPU either, but what would you have him do without also buying a GPU and still being upgradeable in the future? He's gonna want to go AMD in the future with the way things are going for them. You're probably right though. That's really the only thing about the build that bugged me.

I have a friend who has been dabbling in music production lately and he's gotten rather passionate about it. I specced out a PC for him because he's been using a laptop that is practically e-waste at this point. He's also provided a list of the audio hardware/software he's using right now. This is what he has: Presonus AudioBox Arturia Minilab MkII Komplete Kontrol A49 Ableton Live 11 Standard This is the machine I've specced for him based on his budget: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/F6jgW3 As an amateur getting into music what else should be be looking at? He won't be able to spend a lot. Thanks! ^_^

@narrdarr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HVHCSWJ/ Will this work even though it's a 5v 3 pin header on the motherboard?

I'm gonna guess now that it's not gonna work. JackNet doesn't even see the device. It only sees 3 DIMMs It also sees a mouse I don't have connected, but w/e.

I was not aware that was a thing. I'm downloading it now and will give it a shot. If not I'm gonna contact ASUS about it later. I don't suspect it'll help anything as some of the posts I've found about this issue are quite old. Anything I should pay attention for if I get a hub for other devices? Not sure if I want to change the fans or not yet, but I might.

Crucial Ballistix RGB 3600 MHz CL16 (White)

Haha, holding down the button did the trick! Doesn't fix the memory issue, but that's awesome. Thanks! ^_^ Now I need some kind of hub to get the pump working I assume.

The strip lights up just fine, and I can control it using the case button, but Armory Crate doesn't seem to be controlling it. "Addressable LED Strip" is checked. Armory crate also can't control the 3rd DIMM slot. This is the same on both my machines and from what I've read is a common problem, perhaps only with the Ballistix memory I use, not sure. RGB works fine on all DIMMS using Ballistilx software, but Armory Crate can't control DIMM 3 and it remains completely off. *shrug* I'm inclined to believe it's just Armory Crate or firmware issues currently.

Sorry. I use Armory Crate. I incorrectly use the terms synonymously sometimes because they're both Asus I guess.

I have: Asus Prime X570-Pro Lian-Li Galahad 240 AIO Be Quiet 500dx As far as I can tell there is just the one addressable header. Currently the RGB strip that is included with the case is populating it, but Aura Sync (edit: Armory Crate) isn't able to control it. Idk if that means I did something wrong, or Aura Sync (edit: Armory Crate) is just trash (or both). Anyway, my main issue is I need help figuring out what all I need to buy to get the strip and the pump RGB to both work and to sync. Also, if I decide to add RGB fans to the mix how will that change things? Thanks for the help. The system has been built for awhile now, but I'm finally getting around to putting the finishing touches on it.

@rice guruthanks for the suggestion. Is there much difference between them?

It's been 3 days. I'll assume a bump is acceptable by now.

It's been 3 days. I'll assume a bump is acceptable by now.

cute... The best answer I could find in my searching was the 558, but it wasn't definitive. I thought for sure I read somewhere an exact model it was based on, but perhaps I'm mistaken.

I have a Sennheiser Game One and love it. I want to replace it with something as close to identical as possible w/o the microphone as I've been using a Blue Yeti for awhile and have been happy with the results. IIRC the Game ONE is identical to another of their headphones aside from the mic, but I don't recall which. Also, I'd like to know if there are alternative cables I can get on account of that proprietary jack that is quite difficult to jam other cables into (I've done it, it's not fun). I REALLY don't like the cable it comes with. I've gotten two replacements from Sennheiser before and it's always bunching up, getting twisted, rubbing against my clothes sending sound up to my ears, or otherwise getting in the way. Lastly, and this is a stretch, I'd like recommendations on wireless headphones that have a similar sound to my Game ONE. It might be impossible as it seems wireless open-back headphones don't exist. I've tried a few closed-back wireless options and didn't like them for various reasons, including one from Sennheiser (Sennheiser PXC 550-II Wireless).

I have an Asus Zenscreen MB16AMT 15.6" touch screen display that supports mini HDMI and USB C. Of course you can only get the touch screen functionality over USB, so I have it connected to the single rear USB C port on my Asus Prime X570-PRO. This does not deliver enough power to keep the display powered even at minimum brightness. Q: What do I need to do in order to keep the display powered indefinitely? Is there a PCIe card I could purchase? Do I need to get a powered USB hub? Bonus Q: Would anyone recommend another touch-screen over this one? It's mostly going to be sitting next to my main monitor to display auxiliary text content and sometimes display YouTube videos. The latter looks... fine, but could definitely be better. The most important aspect is touch. Thanks as always! ^_^

I think I got it fixed. It appears that the latest (non-beta) firmware for this motherboard doesn't support this card at all. That's an issue I've never run into. I could only get it to work once I got into windows with another card AND update the GPU drivers. The performance issues are gone in the new system as well, so it seems unrelated to the GPU.