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Arcanyx

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System

  • CPU
    Intel i5-6500
  • Motherboard
    Asus H110M-D
  • RAM
    GSkill Aegis DDR4 2133Mhz 8GBx2
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 960 SSC ACX 2.0 2GB
  • Case
    Sharkoon VG4-W Red
  • Storage
    Intel 540S 240GB SSD & WD Caviar Blue 1TB HDD
  • PSU
    Superflower Leadex Silver 550W
  • Display(s)
    BenQ GW2470
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB Rapidfire
  • Mouse
    Razer Deathadder Chroma
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud 2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. Yeah so I had a spare older mobo+CPU that's a different socket, tested it out and it worked perfectly with all the components attached to it, so we have narrowed it down to three possible things: 1. Mobo 2. CPU 3. CPU fan (stock) Just wondering whether the 6500 is salvageable. If so i might just find a secondhand board to reuse it. Thanks for the feedback and advice!
  2. Hi, my 6-year-old PC is not able to boot after some event in the last 6-8 hours. I've provided as much details as I could below and am looking for some advice on this. My current hypothesis is that the motherboard is dead. Specs: MOBO: Asus H110M-D CPU: i5-6500 GPU: MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4GB PSU: Super Flower 80+ Silver 550W RAM: G.Skill Aegis DDR4 2133 Prelude: I recently got passed a used but fully functioning GTX 1070 TI, and was going to upgrade my current PC with it. Also to be added to the PC was a new Arctic 12PWM outtake fan to replace my current fan (which was getting noisy). Today, this was what happened in chronological order: 1. Took the entire PC out to the yard and used a blower vacuum to clear dust from the case (yes I know this is a red flag, just need confirmation if this was the main reason the PC won't boot up). 2. Proceeded to change out the case fan and the GPU for the newer parts. 3. Attempted to turn on the PC. Attempt #1 - failed. *Ethernet slot light indicator is on, everything else non-responsive (no fans turning, no other lights lit, no sounds from any component). 4. Removed the connectors to the new parts before trying to turn on. Attempt #2 - failed. *Removed all other components as well, leaving only Mobo connected to PSU. 5. Reattached mobo to a different PSU before reattempting boot. Attempt #3 - failed. 6. Reattached front IO panel to different case before reattempting boot. Attempt #4 - failed. 7. Tried to manually boot by shorting the PWR connectors for front IO. Attempt #5 - failed. At this point I just ran out of ideas, so I sort of assumed that the problem is the motherboard having power to show a lit Ethernet slot, but probably damaged somewhere that it doesn't boot. Of course I think the main culprit for the damage would be using the vacuum in reverse to clean the dust, which in hindsight was something I wouldn't have even done in the first place if it wasn't for a suggestion by someone I was consulting. But anyway, hindsight is 20/20. Any advice would be appreciated, especially before I head out to make some new purchases. Thank you.
  3. Thanks for the input. Very likely we'll have to wait out the pandemic before getting to this.
  4. Hi, I a WD External Hard Drives (sample of the product: https://shopee.com.my/western-Digital-WD-My-Passport-USB-3.0-Portable-Hard-Disk-Drive-i.13127.955201480). Just yesterday I noticed the drive was undetectable by my work laptop, and so I tried to plug it into my desktop (after shutting down the laptop and only then removing the drive from the USB slot). Noticed that the light at the top, which is supposed to stay on completely while plugged in, was blinking rather than being static. Have not been able to detect the drive after a few attempts meddling with disk management and device management. Additional info: there's no ticking noise coming from the drive, it's about a year or so old, and it was dropped awhile time ago but it had always been working since then. After some Googling without a solution, thought I come here for some help. Any thoughts on what could have happened and how I could recover the contents?
  5. You’re right - I was messing around a few minutes after writing this post and that was exactly what I did. The camera was defaulting to the memory card, but once I chose the internal memory within the camera menu I was able to both view the files and transfer them to my PC. Thank you for the reply!
  6. Hi, so I recently purchased a Sony Handycam FDR-AX40 and it’s been a superb piece of hardware to capture my newborn son’s little moments. We initially just used the internal memory for the first couple of days but when that ran out, we inserted a SD card to continue capturing videos. Today, weeks after we’ve started using it, my wife was browsing the videos via the camcorder and she realised the first few videos - the ones that were captured using the internal memory - were missing. No sign of them whatsoever, which caused some panic at our ends as there were some very important files there. Checked the Sony manual and website as well as numerous forums, but nothing helped, so I’m hoping starting this new thread could shed some light on the problem and hopefully get us back our videos. We’ve already backed up the files from the SD card to a computer, but we’re now looking for any recommendations on what tools we could try to recover the files from the internal memory, or any idea on what could have gone wrong to cause this issue. Any help whatsoever would be very appreciated.
  7. Yeah that's probably the last resort to be honest. Still hoping there's some way to save entire chats intact with the media as well.
  8. I bought my wife a new iPhone XS late last year, but one thing we both did not do was to backup her WhatsApp conversations that gy ivvere on her previous iPhone 6S into iCloud or iTunes before moving to her new phone. NNow, the WhatsApp on the 6S is about to expire and my wife would very much like to keep the chats in some manner. She had kept the phone completely offline all this while, which kept the app as is and she's been able to scroll through the conversations without issue - until recently. I was wondering if backing up to iTunes would work, but since there's technically two different backups now (i.e one on her XS, and another one on the 6S) we're unsure what would happen when we do a backup. Would anyone be able to recommend a way for us to save the conversations, inclusive of all the photos and files?
  9. Thanks for the advice, really appreciate the help! I'll update once the cable arrives and report back my findings.
  10. Thanks for the tip. Would something like this suffice? https://www.lazada.com.my/products/4-pin-pwm-fan-cable-1-to-3-ways-splitter-black-sleeved-extension-cable-i104229289-s105388482.html?
  11. Thanks for the reply! What would your suggestion be? As long as I can reduce the noise I would definitely be keen to invest in the components/changes.
  12. Hi, so recently the rear-panel (air-outtake) case fan in my Sharkoon VG4-W case died out and I replaced it with a Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 120mm RGB. I do some audio recordings on a Blue Yeti and recently realised that the mic has been picking up the noise coming from the case fan - I'm usually on headphones the moment I get to my desk so I didn't actually pick this up until re-watching my recordings (mic is even set to cardioid, faced away from the source of the sound) . Lately I've realised the noise is definitely noticeable even when the computer is just turned on, which wasn't the case with the previous generic Sharkoon case fan. My goal would be to try and minimise the sound to the point where my streams/recordings won't be able to pick it up on the mic. A few of my questions: 1. Is there a difference between connecting a case fan to a molex connector or the motherboard 4-pin connector? The CM case fan is currently on a molex connection, and I don't have a fan controller at this time. I am on an Asus H110M-D motherboard. 2. The MasterFan Pro has a sound rating of between 6 and 20 dBA; most other recommended 'silent' fans are advertised to be around that range as well. Am I missing something here? Here are some of my options at the moment at my local stores: Noctua NF-F12 PWM - https://www.lazada.com.my/products/noctua-nf-f12-pwm-premium-optimised-fan-120mm-i629086-s718785.html Noctua NF-F12 IndustrialPPC 3000 PWM - https://www.lazada.com.my/products/noctua-nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm-high-grade-pc-chassis-fan-i629776-s719525.html Be Quiet Silent Wings 3 - https://www.lazada.com.my/products/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-120mm-chassis-fan-i100553093-s100790226.html Thoughts and advice are appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Thanks for all the inputs. I went ahead and grabbed 1 of each of these: https://www.lazada.com.my/dvi-24-1-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-black-10105726.html (for HDMI to DVI; I'm currently using VGA and I'd like to do away with it) https://www.lazada.com.my/dp-displayport-male-to-hdmi-female-cable-converter-adapter-for-pclaptop-hpdell-12141055.html (the cable extension may be a bit useful for the TV cable) https://www.lazada.com.my/good-display-port-dp-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-converter-adaptorfor-hdtv-19993168.html (just the generic adapter I posted earlier) Cost me about USD 13 for all 3 with shipping so yeah not too bad. Should arrive in about a week!
  14. Thanks for all the recommendations, fellas. I'm guessing its an Asus 1070? Had my eye on those actually. Hmm, would something like this cut it? http://www.lazada.com.my/good-display-port-dp-male-to-hdmi-female-adapter-converter-adaptorfor-hdtv-19993168.html?ff=1 I'm not too well versed with adapters so any advice would be great. Thanks again!
  15. I am currently using an EVGA GTX 960 2GB card which I (unfortunately) purchased in June last year - barely a couple of weeks before the 1060 landed (sigh). Current setup: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Arcanyx/saved/6yD23C - minus the Deathadder which is crapping out on me right now. Anyway, I have the 960 hooked up to two BenQ GW2470H monitors as I do some light gaming and streaming, and the dual-monitor setup is something I wanna continue having. Since the BenQ only has VGA or HDMI inputs, I am using one HDMI and one DVI-D ports on the GPU (the DVI being used via a VGA adapter to the second monitor). What I wanted to do all the while was to have another port available to hook up my Sony Bravia TV, which sits at the other end of my bedroom and has a 30m HDMI cable routed from it to my PC desk - I primitively used to disconnect my BenQ just so I could connect the Sony as and when I wanted to watch a movie. So, TL;DR: looking for any GPU option that can cater to my current dual desktop monitor setup (2 x BenQ GW2470H) and my one TV (1 x Sony Bravia 40') - all of which uses HDMI ports. Any other recommendations are welcomed, too! I've also considered adapters for the other ports (DP, etc.) but for some reason the BenQ monitors I have doesn't seem to detect any input from a HDMI-to-DP adapter cable I had bought.
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