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Khaleesinikov

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Everything posted by Khaleesinikov

  1. as title says, i get constant cpu late starts in every single game i play causing dropped frames. Even when the performance graph is fully green, the cpu late start is still there constantly, and after a bit of time it will cause dropped frames. For example in vtol vr i can fly around for a minute with a butter smooth experience and then suddenly start dropping frames or whatever the red line in the performance graph means. This includes every game i play. I did set vr pre rendered frames in nvcp to 4 and that helped a bit, but i then set it to app controlled and it helped more meaning that the games werent constantly in their choppy state. cpu and gpu usage never reach 100%, usually my gpu hangs around 60-70% and my cpu around 50-40%. Specs: Ryzen 5 3600 GTX 1660 super Dev edition HP WMR headset 16Gb ram Win 11 SS is at the recommended 150% global and 100% app. Changing it doesnt help anything. Here is the Frame Timing graph at 20% Global SS: https://ibb.co/TwL34Dd Everything is updated to the latest version. I had this issue for a long time but i just got used to playing like that and now that i have felt how its like to be buttery smooth i just can't go back. Thanks in advance
  2. I have to put together a complete PC and GPU's are basically non existent on the market. For 1080p@60 i found a 980TI for 285 USD. a 1660 is 350$ used (a 1660 super is 550$ new), a 1070 is around 300 or more. I don't really want to buy a 1650 because thats around 230$ used. I live in hungary, so thats why the prices are so huge. AMD cards are around the same price I can't wait for better deals because i have a week to put this pc together. So would a 980 TI be worth it or should i buy a 1050/960 for around 60-90$ and wait for the prices to go down.
  3. If im correct the timings should be the same so i guess it can work then? Speed is the same its just a different model. but the row cycle time is different, and CL(IDD) is different too (9 and 10) in the official kingston specsheet. I'm not smart in this area so i'm not really sure if these matter or not I'm only getting this because the new half life most likely wont run well on a single channel ddr3 stick, and its a bottleneck in some games already
  4. I have a fairly old kingston hyperX KHX1600C10D3 single channel 8 gb stick, and i'd like to upgrade to 16 gigs, but they don't sell this exact model anymore and the only one that is similar is the HX316C10F/8 model. Could i run these 2 different models in dual channel without any problems?
  5. I have a fairly old steering wheel that somehow still works, (logitech wingman formula gp, the yellow one without FFB). Is it possible to do some magic inside that allows me to turn it 900 degrees instead of 90? I read somewhere that i could change the potentiometers inside but i dont really know how to and if i could, it probably wouldn't work with its original drivers. Since the paddle shifters on the back are starting to fail, get stuck etc, I've decided to go the DIY route since i'm a poor student. I already have a concept for a shifter made out of a flight stick and soldering a pedal as clutch to a controller's trigger input. Now my question is that is it possible to mod the wheel to have bigger degrees of rotation, or should i just wait for a few months and buy a g25 or g29.
  6. Since i moved my system into a new case, it started shutting off randomly. Usually happens when i first boot it up for the day, and after I start any game. It stops twice after every game launch, ex: trying to play Rocket league but before i could play ranked i have to wait for 2 shutdowns for it to work properly. Now the interesting thing is that sometimes it does not start back up by itself and i can't turn it on with the power button. The solution to this is the good ol russian way. I hit the case somewhere on top and it just starts by itself. My temps are fine, the only reason i think that its not my psu is because i need to hit the case for it to start. I'm completely lost, and i don't have any spare hardware to test parts.
  7. About a week ago or even less, my system started randomly shutting off, like completely losing power and then turning itself back on. My cpu is mildly oc'd but it has been for a year. This started after moving into a new case that is a fsp cmt 510 (has a pcb at the back that connects all fans to a single molex connector). PSU is an evga 100 w1 600W my motherboard is roughly 6 years old. Yesterday, same thing happened but it didn't turn itself back on and i was unable to turn it on via power on button. The mobo draws power from the psu because a little led lights up on it, and link/activity leds are on, yet nothing happens. After 5 minutes i could turn it on. Today i got home from school and was unable to turn it on. and after 20 minutes it turned on by itself without me doing anything. I doubt that this is an issue due to OC. Either my psu is failing to deliver enough, or there is a shorting issue somewhere in the case but i can't get to it. (i added 3 lgb strips but that shouldn't make my psu not deliver enough)
  8. even if it would be true, the biggest red flag is that it asks you to complete a survey to access the download. They've actually put a lot of effort into this. their website looks really legit. they even have detailed information on how to configure, what's the minimum hardware, error messages and fixes. (in their uncharted gameplay, you can see the gpu usage. Looks legit to people who don't pay attention to that, but its just randomly generated numbers probably, or even preset numbers.)
  9. Does it happen to all keys? If it happens to only one then it could be a faulty switch or some dust (at least that is what I've read).
  10. Well it's around the same price. The full height has a different switch if I read it correctly. Either way the short version should be faster and easier to get used to.
  11. Thank you for the suggestion. just to be clear, the link that you provided to the spectrum is for the SE (G11UXL) version, but considering that you wrote short keys then it should be the G11SFL right?
  12. Ah sorry i forgot about that. I live in hungary. I can send you a link that is a collection of all mechanical boards that are sold here. It is not a seller site, more like a search engine for products and sellers. https://www.arukereso.hu/billentyuzet-c3111/mechanikus-igen/?orderby=1 It is in hungarian sorted from low to high but the keyboards are in their original name. 100$ is around 26 000 huf but i can go above that a bit It actually looks good and it is cheap. The only problem that it is not sold anymore here. Last one here was around 2-3 weeks ago
  13. My current keyboard (bloody b120) is dying and i have decided to get myself a mechanical one. The problem is, I have 0 knowledge about how different switches work and what is the best for what. I'm playing a lot of osu!mania and i do type a lot and game as well, what could be the optimal choice for precision and speed for a low cost (around a 100$). My only requirements are that a num pad is a must have for me. Thanks in advance.
  14. Well the mix and the mix 2 has the same price here. Considering that the 2 has lower battery life and no jack, It makes up for it with better hardware.
  15. I am going to switch from my iPhone 5s back to android, and I came to 3 choices. I really love the design of the first mix but i cannot decide what to buy. Thoughts?
  16. Late reply. And yes you can oc on that board but it is very limited and not really recommended. I oc'd my 4690k on a ASUS b85m-e to 4.2 with 1,23V (could be that i was not lucky but i think that this is because of the mobo) I was not able to take it to 4,3 because it changes the bios settings to individual cores and sets up them as follows: 43 42 41 41. I'm a noob at overclocking so i might have done somenthing wrong but i'm at stable 4,2. You need a specific bios version to be able to oc. (I needed 2001 for example). Do some research on what version had this feature before intel patched it.
  17. Already oc'd on my totally oc ready motherboard (ASUS B85M-E. Since they released an update back in 2014 that allowed haswell and haswell refresh K series to be overclocked, i'm sticking with this one for the time being. I will get a Z97 board after I get my 1080) . I've tried 4.3ghz with 1.2V and instant bsod. came down to 4.2 and had a black screen 10 minutes into testing but after some forums, It could have happened because my system went into power saving mode and shut the monitors off. But to be safe, i added an extra .03 volts and no crashes whatsoever. EDIT: I tried to go 4.3 with 1.23 volt but when i reset, fans spin up, then it stops and restarts again and my core settings have been changed from sync all cores to individual cores, and it set up as follows: 43 42 41 41. 1.2 bsods on 4.2 after some prime testing. (I really have to get that new board) Cooling yes, is not the best but still better than running on stock without oc. My highest was 81C on core #1 on full load in AIDA.Games keep it around 60-70. Idles around mid 40s. Prime managed to crank it up to 100 and i stopped at that point. I'm an idiot and used a version that had AVX. Now I'm going with 26.6 and the max was 82 on core#1 but the average is 75-80. Will post a picture nex day about the package.
  18. I've already got the evo 212. I'm using a corsair spec 0-1 and it fits just about right. It is blocking the first ram slot but there is a really small space between the fan and the ram stick. I only have one question and i was unable to find the answer for it. Why did I get calcium chloride in a package with the cooler.
  19. i have a single 8 gig stick so I have plenty of room.
  20. I've decided to get myself a new cooler because I rock a cool 80C while gaming and 40-60C while idle. I own an i5 4690K (not YET overclocked due to motherboard). I wanted to go with a hyper 212 evo or a hyper T4 but since i have as much knowledge in coolers as a giraffe has wings, i don't really know if these are good. I looked at multiple articles and some were unavailable because they were not sold in my country. Basically, I'd like to know if these are good options or if not, then please recommend me something. invasion of RAM slots does not matter.
  21. nice, by the way did you see my full reply? cause you only quoted what i accidentally posted
  22. American pricing is not my terrtority, official prices maybe affect retailers to drop them even lower but i can already get one for 600$ (accidentally replied before finishing my sentece)
  23. I'm thinking about getting a 1080 since it had a nice little price drop and i can buy one for the price of a 1070. I'd buy it somewhere in the summer because i am still a student and I have no job. What I'd like to know is that a 1080 is overkill for 1080p gaming? I was going to buy a 1060 but i saw that the 1080 got a price drop. Current system specs: CPU: i5 4690K (not yet overclocked because of motherboard) GPU: Gigabyte GTX 960 4gb windforce 2 oc MOBO: Asus b85m-e RAM: Hyper x blue 1x8 DDR3 1600mhz Primary monitor: Asus vc239h 1920x1080 60hz secondary monitor: acer x193w 1440x900 75hz PSU: EVGA 600W w1-k2 I will buy a new monitor that is either 4k 1440p or 1080p 144hz. Thanks in advance.
  24. that is true, but there is no way that he will get a new one, that is why upgrading the cpu could help a little.
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