Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


This user doesn't have any awards

About Khaleesinikov

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    proud member of budget gaming masterrace


  • CPU
    Intel Core I5 4690K
  • Motherboard
    Asus B85M-e
  • RAM
    8Gb Hyper X fury 1600mhz
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GTX 960 4Gb windforce 2 OC
  • Case
    Corsair carbide spec-01
  • Storage
    Western digital Caviar blue 1tb WD10EZEX
  • PSU
    EVGA 600W (100-W1-0600-K2)
  • Display(s)
    Asus VC239 1080p ips 23", Acer x193w 1440x900 19,5"
  • Keyboard
    Bloody B120
  • Mouse
    Bloody V8m
  • Sound
    Razer Kraken 7.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 pro 64 bit

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have a fairly old steering wheel that somehow still works, (logitech wingman formula gp, the yellow one without FFB). Is it possible to do some magic inside that allows me to turn it 900 degrees instead of 90? I read somewhere that i could change the potentiometers inside but i dont really know how to and if i could, it probably wouldn't work with its original drivers. Since the paddle shifters on the back are starting to fail, get stuck etc, I've decided to go the DIY route since i'm a poor student. I already have a concept for a shifter made out of a flight stick and soldering a pedal as clutch to a controller's trigger input. Now my question is that is it possible to mod the wheel to have bigger degrees of rotation, or should i just wait for a few months and buy a g25 or g29.
  2. Since i moved my system into a new case, it started shutting off randomly. Usually happens when i first boot it up for the day, and after I start any game. It stops twice after every game launch, ex: trying to play Rocket league but before i could play ranked i have to wait for 2 shutdowns for it to work properly. Now the interesting thing is that sometimes it does not start back up by itself and i can't turn it on with the power button. The solution to this is the good ol russian way. I hit the case somewhere on top and it just starts by itself. My temps are fine, the only reason i think that its not my psu is because i need to hit the case for it to start. I'm completely lost, and i don't have any spare hardware to test parts.
  3. About a week ago or even less, my system started randomly shutting off, like completely losing power and then turning itself back on. My cpu is mildly oc'd but it has been for a year. This started after moving into a new case that is a fsp cmt 510 (has a pcb at the back that connects all fans to a single molex connector). PSU is an evga 100 w1 600W my motherboard is roughly 6 years old. Yesterday, same thing happened but it didn't turn itself back on and i was unable to turn it on via power on button. The mobo draws power from the psu because a little led lights up on it, and link/activity leds are on, yet nothing happens. After 5 minutes i could turn it on. Today i got home from school and was unable to turn it on. and after 20 minutes it turned on by itself without me doing anything. I doubt that this is an issue due to OC. Either my psu is failing to deliver enough, or there is a shorting issue somewhere in the case but i can't get to it. (i added 3 lgb strips but that shouldn't make my psu not deliver enough)
  4. even if it would be true, the biggest red flag is that it asks you to complete a survey to access the download. They've actually put a lot of effort into this. their website looks really legit. they even have detailed information on how to configure, what's the minimum hardware, error messages and fixes. (in their uncharted gameplay, you can see the gpu usage. Looks legit to people who don't pay attention to that, but its just randomly generated numbers probably, or even preset numbers.)
  5. Does it happen to all keys? If it happens to only one then it could be a faulty switch or some dust (at least that is what I've read).
  6. Well it's around the same price. The full height has a different switch if I read it correctly. Either way the short version should be faster and easier to get used to.
  7. Thank you for the suggestion. just to be clear, the link that you provided to the spectrum is for the SE (G11UXL) version, but considering that you wrote short keys then it should be the G11SFL right?
  8. Ah sorry i forgot about that. I live in hungary. I can send you a link that is a collection of all mechanical boards that are sold here. It is not a seller site, more like a search engine for products and sellers. https://www.arukereso.hu/billentyuzet-c3111/mechanikus-igen/?orderby=1 It is in hungarian sorted from low to high but the keyboards are in their original name. 100$ is around 26 000 huf but i can go above that a bit It actually looks good and it is cheap. The only problem that it is not sold anymore here. Last one here was around 2-3 weeks ago
  9. My current keyboard (bloody b120) is dying and i have decided to get myself a mechanical one. The problem is, I have 0 knowledge about how different switches work and what is the best for what. I'm playing a lot of osu!mania and i do type a lot and game as well, what could be the optimal choice for precision and speed for a low cost (around a 100$). My only requirements are that a num pad is a must have for me. Thanks in advance.
  10. Well the mix and the mix 2 has the same price here. Considering that the 2 has lower battery life and no jack, It makes up for it with better hardware.
  11. I am going to switch from my iPhone 5s back to android, and I came to 3 choices. I really love the design of the first mix but i cannot decide what to buy. Thoughts?
  12. Late reply. And yes you can oc on that board but it is very limited and not really recommended. I oc'd my 4690k on a ASUS b85m-e to 4.2 with 1,23V (could be that i was not lucky but i think that this is because of the mobo) I was not able to take it to 4,3 because it changes the bios settings to individual cores and sets up them as follows: 43 42 41 41. I'm a noob at overclocking so i might have done somenthing wrong but i'm at stable 4,2. You need a specific bios version to be able to oc. (I needed 2001 for example). Do some research on what version had this feature before intel patched it.
  13. Already oc'd on my totally oc ready motherboard (ASUS B85M-E. Since they released an update back in 2014 that allowed haswell and haswell refresh K series to be overclocked, i'm sticking with this one for the time being. I will get a Z97 board after I get my 1080) . I've tried 4.3ghz with 1.2V and instant bsod. came down to 4.2 and had a black screen 10 minutes into testing but after some forums, It could have happened because my system went into power saving mode and shut the monitors off. But to be safe, i added an extra .03 volts and no crashes whatsoever. EDIT: I tried to go 4.3 with 1.23 volt but when i reset, fans spin up, then it stops and restarts again and my core settings have been changed from sync all cores to individual cores, and it set up as follows: 43 42 41 41. 1.2 bsods on 4.2 after some prime testing. (I really have to get that new board) Cooling yes, is not the best but still better than running on stock without oc. My highest was 81C on core #1 on full load in AIDA.Games keep it around 60-70. Idles around mid 40s. Prime managed to crank it up to 100 and i stopped at that point. I'm an idiot and used a version that had AVX. Now I'm going with 26.6 and the max was 82 on core#1 but the average is 75-80. Will post a picture nex day about the package.
  14. I've already got the evo 212. I'm using a corsair spec 0-1 and it fits just about right. It is blocking the first ram slot but there is a really small space between the fan and the ram stick. I only have one question and i was unable to find the answer for it. Why did I get calcium chloride in a package with the cooler.