FlushaDev

Found this AIO cooler on amazon > https://www.amazon.de/Thermaltake-Riing-CL-W158-PL12SW-Premium-Wasserkühlung/dp/B00NIDDQU2 and I'm looking forward to buying it for my Ryzen build, just wanted to know if it's compatible with the front side of my case. My case > https://www.amazon.de/Cooler-Master-PC-Gehäuse-Seitenfenster-MCX-B5S1-KWNN-11/dp/B01F9S55Z2

The PSU I'm buying is Name: Pure Power 11 500W CM Model Number: BN297 Site I ordered from: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07JHLD38L/

I got a be quiet 80+ gold one The PSU I have is an 80+ bronze one And no it get's detected even after I powered it with the PSUs so we're good

Hello to the community, I have a GTX 970 NVIDIA Founders, and my PSU has only one 6Pin while the card needs 2 6Pin connectors, I connected 1 six pin from the main PSU and the other 6 pin from the other external PSU, the GPU worked normally, but it wasn't detected in windows, then I just powered it with the 6 Pin from the main power supply only and the GPU was recognised but device manager spit out "Code 43: Windows stopped this device because it is causing problems" I have already ordered another PSU, I just wanted to know if it's possible to power it while I wait for the PSU to arrive. Thanks!

2666MHz with the DOCP enabled

Hello to the community overclockers, I have just got my 2 sticks of Corsair Vengeance LPX RAM 2x8GB and I would like to overclock them above the DOCP profile, aiming for 3200MHz only if it possible to reach that speed with safe voltages and a stable system. Motherboard: ASUS B350 Prime-Plus CPU: Ryzen 5 2400G

I've got a Pioneer TS-W308D2 Subwoofer from a car being used in my bedroom when I need more punchy bass during practising, I wanted to ask if it's safe running it for 4-5 hours in a gig, it's a 2 ohm DVC Subwoofer rated at 400RMS and 1400 Peak Power and I also have an amp that can power it over 400 Watts but I have it set to only push about 400w Wanted to know about it or the amp heating up or blowing during my set, which, both are things I want to avoid. Any help would be appreciated!

I'm about to purchase my new car, looking for something cheap (Max 3k in Euros), and something that I can install a soundsystem on for example 4 Subs with their amps and probably 2 more batteries, basically something with a big trunk. Any ideas? EUROPEAN ANSWERS ONLY PLEASE! Also if anyone knows a good enough online audio shop that I can purchase subs, amps, batteries, and wires from since my country is expensive af but they have some nice pre-built subwoofer boxes that come with amps as a package at a fairly good price.

Turned them all upside down, found nothing so thought someone outside youtube had found it

It's the one Jay swallows twenty-something sausages

https://www.watzatsong.com/en/name-that-tune/564849.html

Have you clicked on it and started playing it? Most Windows and Mac players support .wav

Been looking around for this for about a month or two, shazam doesn't work nor does watzatsong You can also try using your own shazam, it may work steadybeat.wav

I'm currently using a Kingston DTR3.0G2, when I plug it into ANY computer it shows me this symbol (Check attachments), the USB Drive stopped responding recently, Disk Management does not work nor does formatting it. Any ideas?

Recently built a dual fused clapton on the iJoy Combo 2 RDTA, the mod I use is the Paranormal DNA166, the ohms are sitting steady at 0.14, how many watts can I run it on maximum, any math I can do so I can find the wattage on other kinds of coils?

So is it able to provide internet to this PC or?

Cheers dude

I recently found this extender from DLink -> http://www.dlink.com/uk/en/products/dap-1620-ac1200-wifi-range-extender I have a PC in my room and would like to know if I could connect the PC via ethernet so that it works with the repeater as it's Wi-Fi and the cable as it's connection, basically can I connect a computer ti this repeater's ethernet port or is it just for running a cable through the wall to extend the coverage, poor explanation since I'm a newbie at this networking stuff

Modem is one that my ISP gave me, works perfectly fine with Wi-Fi and ethernet. Downstairs I have a perfectly working linksys one. And in my bedroom is a netis basic one, basically the most populated one is the one in my bedroom, I don't see any network spikes at all when the devices connected to it download/upload something at the same time.

Basically if I connect my phone, my brothers phone, and some other random phone on the network and then disconnect one of them, the other two stay connected WITH internet going through to them while the one that was disconnected and has connected back in doesn't have an internet connection

I have just finished setting up a repeater setup in my house so that Wi-Fi and Ethernet would be available anywhere, the way I've set it up.. at least the way I can explain it is like this -> Main Modem to Downstairs Router to my bedroom router. I've tested everything and it all works fine, the problem is, with Wi-Fi, if you stay connected to my bedroom router during the first 5 minutes of booting it up you'll be fine, but if you disconnect from it or just try to connect some time later, yes it let's you connect normally, but internet is not supplied to your device while all other "Already-Connected" devices are fine. Any ideas?

Anyone?

sad face

Forgot to quote you, look at the previous reply

What now?