Areyn13

Update: bought a cheap 15m fiber optic hdmi 2.1 cable from amazon, half the price of the more expensive brands and everything works fine surprisingly! how long it will last, no idea, but so far so good.

We don't have paradises like micro center here in australia sadly haha and yeah i couldn't justify 4k. I'm upgrading from a 24.5" 1080p TN, so the pixel density with 1440p at 31.5" is actually a tiny bit higher (probably not perceivable) and basically allows for a much larger screen without sacrificing clarity. Upkeep on high end GPU's for a high refresh experience at 4K would have also been another more frequent expense. I might just pull the trigger on the GP750, unless someone else here has any further input or advice.

I've been looking for a 32" 1440p gaming monitor and have narrowed down a few options. I've been looking at the LG 32GP750 which is $419 here ($274 USD) which is cheaper than the Nano IPS option LG 32GP850 which is $750 ($492 USD) and also there's the MSI G321Q at $452 ($296 USD) which apparently ISN'T nano-ips, but supports wide color gamut? What do you guys think I should go for? is nano-ips and wide color gamut support worth it for such a higher price? I'm upgrading from a budget 2018 144hz TN monitor so, I'm just looking for a worthwhile upgrade.

I noticed prices can range dramatically for what is essentially the same type of cable, is that just some brands overpricing their products?

So i have a bit of a weird bedroom layout that would require me to have 11-12m of free HDMI cable length (so practically a 15m cable) to properly connect my PC to my TV in order to get the full 4K 120Hz Signal. Are oables advertised on places like Amazon that claim they're 1. active and 2. fiber optic legitimate? at a length of 10-15m, would that give me full 48gbps bandwidth without any problems or quality loss?

Oh wow, ok yeah so around black friday and christmas would be the best time to buy them it seems! ty!

So this is mostly a specularoty question so forgive me, but when would we expect to see the C3 tv's go on sale? and what kind of a discount would we expect during it's first year? would it be black friday/christmas? does anyone remember how much the C2 cost if/when it went on sale by the end of 2022? I really wanted to get the LG C2 42" once i'd saved enough but sadly it's out of clearance stock everywhere here now so, I gotta hold out

So I've been using a 24.5" 1080p 144hz TN monitor that i got back in 2018 and I remember being blown away going from 60hz to 144hz. Since then I've made a lot of upgrades and now rock a 3070 ti, but feel like it's being wasted at such a resolution. I've been wanting to upgrade for a while now and felt 4k was way too hard to run with a 3070 for a high refresh rate experience, so I'm looking into a 27" 1440p display. I do have some concerns and questions for anyone who has made this leap: 1. How was the "wow" factor for you guys in terms of pixel density/sharpness? is it a "can never go back" kind of a situation? was it a little underwelming? how big of an overall difference did it make to you? 2. How does regular 1080p content look on the display? is youtube noticeably less sharp vs a native 1080p panel? or is the difference small and barely noticeable? 3. If you bought an IPS panel, how was ips glow for you? is the concern mostly overblown? not a big deal? is it something you notice, or tend to forget?

Right now I'm using the Silent Wings 3 which i don't think are the best airflow fans? but i bought them because i want a system that's quiet

So i've had my S340 Elite for 6 years now and since then I've upgraded my components to higher end, hotter parts (3070 Ti & 5800x) I have 4 fans installed, around 60-70% fan speed on them including the gpu, any higher and noise starts to become an issue but recently I've noticed my GPU starts out very low in temps around the low 70's but slowly and surely rises into the 80's. Keep in mind, that's WITH a 925mv undervolt. So I must ask, do you guys think I'd benefit greatly from a more airflow focused case upgrade? I've been looking at the 4000D as a possibly replacement, as I prefer to undervolt and run fans at lower rpm's for a cool and quiet approach.

But i don't have it enabled at all

I suppose you're right yeah, i guess I'll check out how well the release version is and if I continue having problems I'll revert back

Yeah and I also used the requirements work around for the tpm checker

So recently i upgraded 2 things, a new NVMe SSD and I have also installed Windows 11 onto it. Seemingly out of nowhere at random moments, my entire system becomes unresponsive? windows will freeze, programs won't open, i can move my cursor around for a while but eventually it all locks up entirely. The only things that fixed it is hard shutting down with holding down the power button, is this some common issue with Windows 11?

Ohh is see so, dedicated memory usage would be how much vram is shown to be being used by a particular application while memory usage is combining both application and system vram usage together? But what about vram allocation vs actual vram usage?

So exactly how accurate is the memory usage graph in MSI Afterburner? I've heard it only reads allocated memory rather than actual memory being used and that by enabling GPU.dll to show "GPU dedicated memory usage" it can now more accurately show real VRAM usage? or is that also kinda not exact?

Really just depends on the game, i was playing cold war zombies earlier and saw it around 7-7.5gb of vram with high settings no ray tracing at just 1080p. But then i also play games like deep rock galactic and reach around 3gb max, rdr2 with optimized settings around 4-4.5 etc. Generally brand new AAA games that tend to be unoptimized eat through vram the most, but also some games show false reading and instead allocate all of your vram instead of actually using it. I have a 3070 Ti and i worry how it'll hold up in the next few years, I also think maxing out settings is a little overrated and generally speaking a lot of newer games when comparing ultra/max to high or sometimes even medium settings can show very little difference in terms of visual fidelity, but can grant you way more vram headroom and frame rate. It's always best to tinker around in the settings menu if ya can

Thank you! yeah so apparently CPU CCD (Tdie) is the most accurate temps to what something like Ryzen Master uses, i was wondering why my afterburner OSD temps seemed a bit high as that uses the Tctl/Tdie reading instead.

So I've noticed when enabling CPU temperature under OSD in Afterburner, the value is quite a lot different to Ryzen Master's reading? For example i could see 50c in afterburner, but then side by side it actually reads 43c in Ryzen Master. I also opened HWiNFO to see three different CPU temperature readings.. Tctl/Tdie, Die (average) and CCD2 (Tdie) so which one should i be referencing and which one does Ryzen Master base their reading off of?

As an owner of a 5800x, I also worried about my temps. Seeing temps spiking into the 80's and hitting 90c under high loads is apparently "by design" according to AMD, so nothing to really worry about there. I've sinced tinkered around with PBO settings in the bios as well as curve optimizer to lower my temps at the expense of around 2-4% performance just so i felt a little more at ease, but it's by no means necessary. Gaming temps around the 60-70c range is absolutely fine also, so don't worry yourself too much ^-^

Sharkoon is actually listed in A tier in the PSU tier list under low priority unit, so it's definitely not a sketchy psu by any means

Thought as much yeah, could that also be why I've been getting coil whine on pretty much every single one of my gpu's? would a PSU switch out help if i were lucky enough to get one without coil whine, or could the electricity in a person's house also effect these types of things?

So I'm hearing a slight buzz coming from my RM750x, it's also present when the pc is turned off (psu switch turned on) is this normal? I heard it has something to do with 5VSB noise and that it's normal/not harmful? it's not bothersome really to me, so just wanted to know if it's anything to be concerned about thanks!

Here's a video i saw talking about it, it was basically advice given by Seasonic. I think it's more a less a "better safe than sorry" kinda thing y'know?

There's been a big deal made about piggyback cables recently for high wattage cards, people are often told not to use piggyback cables for cards like the 3080/3090 but idk how serious it can be