Silotic

Something like this then? https://www.amazon.ca/Powered-ZZ-Faster-Transfer-Charging/dp/B0C6Q8691V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=TZSBIQUX7QJ6&keywords=usb+powered+hub&qid=1698394896&sprefix=usb+powered+bub%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1

So pc > cable > powered hub > cable > hub again? How about replacing the 2.0 extension cable with a 3.0 one instead? Would that work or would I run into the same issue of having a lack of power delivery?

Hey there. I bought a 50 feet USB 2.0 extension cable that I passed through the walls of my apartment with a USB 3.0 hub in order to couch game since my controller kept getting disconnected if I didn't keep it at the perfect angle 100% of the time. The hub on its own works fine and so does the cable but the moment that the hub is plugged into it, it shits the bed. The hub then shows up like this in device manager. https://imgur.com/a/nyhut2I This is the cable that I purchased: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0C96Q6LM9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details And this is the hub in question: https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=sr_1_5?crid=Z249JVJIQHM1&keywords=usb%2Bhub&qid=1698381626&sprefix=usb%2Bhub%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5&th=1 I don't know if there's a compatibility issue due to the length of the cable or due to the mix of USB format but I'd like a solution since it's my only way to couch game at the moment without always moving my 31kg+ computer every time. I'd like a solution, whether that would be on what I would need to purchase to make it work or if there's a potential troubleshooting step that I should follow with what I currently have. Either way, I have access to a refund so it's no biggie, simply disappointing. Thanks in advance.

I just bought this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HRJ9P84?psc=1&smid=A2N4NEZPB53SEZ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp My headphones tend to sound muddy without something amplifying the signal so this one should be alright since it says that it amplifies the audio

Watching tv at night without disturbing anyone else that might be sleeping. Thanks for the reply though. I'll buy something of the sort right away.

Hey there. I wanted to know if it was possible to output the sound from my tv from the optical plug into a DAC and carry that audio signal from the DAC to a pair of headphones. If it is, would the following work? Optical plug to 3.5mm: https://www.amazon.ca/Toslink-Optical-EMK-Notebook-Playstation/dp/B08JTQHBCG/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=optical+audio+cable+to+3.5mm&qid=1672197445&s=electronics&sprefix=optical+audio+cable+to%2Celectronics%2C93&sr=1-7 DAC in question: https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=fiio&qid=1672197634&sr=8-7 Headphones that I'm using: https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-Acoustic-Gaming-Headset-Black/dp/B00KK8ZLEC/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_2/138-9929908-7406123?pd_rd_w=uaVz6&content-id=amzn1.sym.17b2b149-58e2-4824-ba79-851c5f351fdc&pf_rd_p=17b2b149-58e2-4824-ba79-851c5f351fdc&pf_rd_r=GBPETG47J4V0H8XSKM3H&pd_rd_wg=WN1Nz&pd_rd_r=bf18199d-aeba-470a-956c-d7822c58d934&pd_rd_i=B00KK8ZLEC&psc=1 If it doesn't what's the work around? Sorry if it seems like I dumb question but I don't know much about audio.

Would it be a good idea to use a guitar pick to leave a small gap between the bezel and the screen?

Won't it just be forever stuck where it dies if I wait leaving me with a permenant black dot with legs wherever that may be?

Hey there. I've got a somewhat unconventional problem. For the past three days, I have had an ant roaming around all over the inside of my screen. I've tried luring it out by unplugging everything and leaving a plate full of sugar, chocolate and fruitroll for 20 hours but it's still very much inside moving on and about. At this point I believe that it's stuck because I keeps seeing it hover around the corners but there seem to not be enough space between the bezel and the screen for it to leave. It puzzles me how it got in due to this but hey-oh. I have no clue what else to do to get it out at this point. I've tried calling 20 different places but no one seems to be taking care of stand-alone monitors in my area. I'm super clumsy so dissasembling it and doing it myself scares the bejebus out of me. Anyone has any idea of what I could do to get rid of it? This is my monitor model, in case it helps. Thanks in advance. https://www.newegg.com/amp/black-asus-rog-swift-pg279q-27/p/N82E16824236660

Yup. Again the card worked fine for 2 days and my other gpus that are pulling in less watts are working fine as well.

Still running the 7700k.

Hey. So I bought the card and was using it for 2 days before my system suddenly decided to shutdown. I tried turning it back on and it wouldn't work. The only time it would boot is if I removed the 3090. I tried putting one of my old 1080s in it to test if it would work and it did. I tried again with the 3090 and the system would not turn on. I tried resetting the bios, turning the PSU off and on and the issue would persist. I am thinking the PSU mind have deteriorated to a point where it can no longer output enough juice to power my system on top of the new GPU. I've had the power supply (850w gold) for over 5 years. 1 of those 5 years was spent running a 980+4790k OC'd 24/7 and the other 4 running 2 1080s+7700K OC'd also 24/7. Could it be the PSU or is the card just bad? I've never turned off my PC since I've had the power supply either (unless I went away on vacation). PS: The card was easily clocking in at 2000Mhz with just the boost clock while being stable, quiet and showing no issues at the all.

Hey. As the title suggests my pc does boot up but does not load windows despite the SSD (which has W10 on it) being chosen as the boot drive. I decided to try and do a clean install of windows from a flash drive which did work. After a few windows driver got installed, I restarted the pc for them to go through and the problem occurred again. Note. The pc is a brand new build so all the hardware in it is brand new. The bios has been updated to it's most current version.

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