MadOrc

Hello! A bit of a follow-up from a previous post, I got an RX5700xt, Razer eGPU enclosure, and a 240Hz monitor for my setup. But, I'm being hard hard CPU bottlenecked in games, with tons of stuttering. My old laptop is struggling like a geriatric donkey and it might be time to put it down. I'm looking for a new laptop with a CPU that can handle 240Hz, for around $1500. My budget is super flexible, but only because I'm willing to skip a meal or two for the frames. It doesn't need a GPU of its own becuse I have my eGPU for that. Less important, but I'd ideally like a 2-in-1 with a pen so I can take notes on it. I've been looking at Surface laptops, but are there better options? Thanks so much.

230fps sounds really nice, I'll def look into it. And, I think R6 has gotten better about hackers recently, I'd recommend giving it another go

I'm planning on buying a Surface Book 3 or similar laptop, which has an i7 1065G7. I don't know exactly how good that is, but it should be enough, no?

Was eyeing those, they look pretty good. I'm planning to use the GPU in an external enclosure connected to a laptop (which I haven't bought yet). So, the CPU probably will be serviceable but not incredibly strong.

I'm looking to buy a new GPU in the next two weeks mostly for playing esports games (i.e. CSGO, Overwatch, R6) at 1080p low. 144Hz is a must, and I'm willing to pay more for 240Hz play and/or a longer lifespan. What GPU would be a good buy? No hard budget, I'm mostly looking for good value at any price point. Thanks :)

Dell Inspiron 13 5000 ASUS VivoBook F510UA both good options

Current build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MadOrc/saved/9DYHxr I was thinking of upgrading my CPU to an 8086k with an Asus Prime z370-A, totaling $580. I was wondering if I could pay a different amount for more value per dollar. My reasoning is that there might be a premium for a special-edition type thing. I mainly want to use my CPU for gaming, but I still do some photo/video editing that can make use of the extra two cores. Thanks!

I'm looking for a work/light gaming laptop for ~$1000. Preferably 1050 or something similar, touchscreen preferred but not necessary. I was thinking maybe the 7700hq Asus Vivobook but I'd like some more options. Thanks!

Is there a good laptop around $1000 (flexible) that is fairly light and has a GTX1050 or better? Thanks.

http://www.imaging-resource.com/cameras/canon/sl1/vs/panasonic/g7/ ^^Use that link and decide which features are most important to you, then make a decision based off that.

Looks good, but I would go for a different parts list if I were you. That cpu cooler is too expensive if you're not even overclocking and you really should get a graphics card. Also, that power supply is really old and a new one would be easier to find and better. What will this build be used for?

PCPartPicker says that any of them should be fine.

Our network setup consists of a full working system on one side of the house and a single Ethernet cable running to the other side. When we plug in a switch and a router to this cable, some devices can connect and some can't. We plugged the router into a different cable for testing (which was connected to a switch) and that worked with other devices. Why is this: Devices working when router connected to long ethernet cable: iPhone 6, Moto Z Devices working when router connected to test ethernet cable: HP Spectre 2016

Can I please have a recommendation for a >60hz ultrawide? The size doesn't matter much, so long as it's vesa mountable and not extremely expensive. Thanks!

The apartment I live in has thick concrete walls that don't allow wifi through, so only half the apartment has wifi due to the long floor plan. I have to rely on a 100ft Ethernet cable going through the crown molding, which only serves my PC. We have tried range extenders and repeaters, none of which work for more than a few seconds (weird, right?). If I don't want to get a whole new network for half the apartment what can I do to get wifi? I don't have much knowledge about networks, sorry if the answer is obvious.

Nvm, was an issue with lift distance.

I got a Mionix Castor a while ago, but I don't use it very often anymore. It worked on a Razer Goliath Control and HyperX Fury Pro mousepad before I tried using it with a Corsair hard pad. Now, it only works with the Corsair mouse pad, despite the software gibing both the hard pad and a HyperX Fury Pro a 70% surface recognition score. Is this a software problem or what?

So I'm trying to make a cartogram with ScapeToad, and I figured out how to import a .shp file. But, I have no idea how to create an attribute. I know what data set I want to use, but no idea how to do it. How? I know there isn't much of a chance there will be someone knowledgeable here, but it's worth a try.

Alright, so I'd better pay for Alpha or else I'll be missing some important pieces.

lmao So if I don't order the alphas I'll just get the non-alphanumeric keys and have a hole in my keycap set or what?

Massdrop is featuring the SA Carbon keycap set for $35, but you can pay an extra $35 for "Alphas" What are these? https://www.massdrop.com/buy/carbon

@Jamiec1130 @Oshino Shinobu @KenjiUmino I have a Win10 disk in a USB reader that I've used before to install Win10. How do I tell the computer to boot from it? BIOS?

So, my brother has an old prebuilt that has an fx-6300 and an upgraded gtx 950, but the hard drive is abysmal. We bought a 250gb WD blue ssd and a new copy of windows (clean slate, the computer must have around 50 viruses) and tried to install it. If I change the SATA data and power cables from the old hdd to the ssd, the computer won't boot or give me the option to boot, it just sits there. What do I have to do to install the new Win10? Thanks.

So, I found this (http://www.geekkeys.com/keychain/) cherry MX keychain that I want to buy but I want to buy a separate, nice keycap for it. Just something simple, like a solid color. But, I can't find anywhere that just does a single keycap, excluding those acrylic models, which I don't really want. And I am aware the site sells the keychain with a cap but I want a nicer one than I'd probably get included for $3.50.

A while back, my brother bought a pair of HyperX Cloud Stinger's and was very satisfied. He used the front audio port of his computer, the case is the Corsair Carbide Spec Alpha. But, soon, only the right audio channel was working. We tested on different devices, different ports, reinstalling and updating drivers, downloading the motherboard software, everything. Nothing worked. So, we bought another pair (because we hadn't registered the warranty). That one worked fine for about the same amount of time, but then it, too stopped working in the left ear. But, this time, it worked fine on other devices. We tried other pairs of headphones on the PC, and only the right audio channel worked, so now we're sure that something is wrong with his Win10. I've looked online but everything is around 5 years old. Are there any possible solutions? Thanks. Sorry for the long text block, but there's a lot of information. On a side note, I've also tested the front audio ports on another Corsair Carbide Spec Alpha and that unit is fine even after heavy use.