Chef-009

Hello, I'm making a web-app-store but I can't seem to figure out a bit of custom code required to show the client paid for content and some other things. (JavaScript) Please keep in mind this is from an absolute noob perspective. I don't know any code or definitions beyond what || and && mean. I have a Wordpress page comparable to a Pokédex. It's supposed show a grayed out image of a pokémon for visitors but when someone aquires a license key from Gumroad it's supposed to show a swipeable image gallery. The code has to check for 2 licenses on Gumroad's servers. And as long as at least 1 is active, it has to show the image gallery. Here is Gumroad's explanation for checking a license: https://help.gumroad.com/article/76-license-keys curl https://api.gumroad.com/v2/licenses/verify \ -d "product_permalink=QMGY" \ -d "license_key=YOUR_CUSTOMERS_LICENSE_KEY" \ -X POST ^Here I have to fill in info about the product to check for. Then it gets back a response that looks like this, or a 404 error: { "success": true, "uses": 29, "purchase": { "seller_id": "kL0paVL1SdmJSYRNs-OCMg==", "product_id": "32-nPAinqpLj0B_WIwVlMw==", "product_name": "license product", "permalink": "testprod1", "product_permalink": "https://gum.co/testprod1", "email": "sample@example.com", "price": 0, "gumroad_fee": 0, "currency": "usd", "quantity": 1, "discover_fee_charged": false, "can_contact": true, "referrer": "direct", "card": { "bin": null, "expiry_month": null, "expiry_year": null, "type": null, "visual": null }, "order_number": 524459995, "sale_id": "FO8TXN-dvxYbBdahG97Y-Q==", "sale_timestamp": "2021-01-05T19:38:56Z", "purchaser_id": "5550311507811", "subscription_id": "GDzW4_NBdQy-o7Gjjng7lw==", "variants": "", "license_key": "85DB262A-C19D4B06-A5335A6B-8C079166", "ip_country": "India", "recurrence": "monthly", "is_gift_receiver_purchase": false, "refunded": false, "disputed": false, "dispute_won": false, "id": "FO8TXN-dvxYbBdahG97Y-Q==", "created_at": "2021-01-05T19:38:56Z", "custom_fields": [], "subscription_cancelled_at": "2021-02-05T20:09:27Z", "subscription_failed_at": null } } The conditional branch has to look for the succes = 'true' value, then it'll show the image gallery. Although, I don't know for sure if the succes value is for an active license or just for retrieving requested information. If refunded = true or succes = false it's supposed to be the grayed out image. I have 4 questions / problems: 1. How do I do the license check, let alone 2? Just paste it above the branch and the code as raw JavaScript on the gallery spot of the page? (I'm using a visual composer) 2. How do I connect the license check with the conditional branch or how do I pull info from that response? 3. Can I make it so only the paid for content gets retrieved from the server when the license is "ok"? (To prevent cache ripping or something like that.) 4. (Bonus) When you try to screenshot in your bank app, the screenshot is completely black. How do I do this? I came as far as putting this script on the page but it doesn't work: <span style="color: #1a1a1a;">if (e.keyCode == SYSQR) {</span> <span style="color: #1a1a1a;">filter:alpha(opacity=0);</span> <span style="color: #1a1a1a;">}</span> License checking script on page right now: <p>curl https://api.gumroad.com/v2/licenses/verify \ -d "product_permalink=QMGY" \ -d "license_key=YOUR_CUSTOMERS_LICENSE_KEY" \ -X POST </p> //Response from Gumroad's server comes here I guess, idk how to do this// if ('succes' = true) { echo <p>[vc_row][vc_column][us_image_slider ids="1868,432,87" css="%7B%22default%22%3A%7B%22background-image%22%3A%222237%7Cfull%22%2C%22background-position%22%3A%2225%25%22%2C%22background-size%22%3A%22cover%22%2C%22background-repeat%22%3A%22no-repeat%22%2C%22background-attachment%22%3A%22fixed%22%2C%22border-radius%22%3A%228px%22%7D%7D"][/vc_column][/vc_row]</p>; else if ('refunded' = true || 'succes' = false) { <p>[vc_row][vc_column][us_image image="607"][/vc_column][/vc_row]</p> } } Thanks in advance!

I know it's way overkill, and that's pretty much the point: Pulling the absolute maximum out of the Mini-ITX form factor. Yes it will actually be build. But to be fair there will be a good amount of power required for what I'm going to be working on: Multiple complex 3D models simultaneously, virtual machines & emulation, possibly a local sever for a small business, and making very specialized games (Yes I know about the A6000, but 3090 or Titan RTX 2 seem to be the better choice). AMD 5950X or next year's 6950X (nice) because I'm getting the feeling the 5950X is being held back by the AM4 socket, and DDR5 RAM is coming out. mATX isn't gonna fit in the case (custom) I'm afraid.

I have my eyes on the PM1735 for an x8 slot and the 980 Pro for the leftover M.2 slot, but they're not set in stone. Yes I've noticed that by now, on the right ones at least (https://peine-braun.net/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=59). The ones sold by stores don't have one afaik (https://www.density.sk/product/pcie-bifurcated-riser-cable/) Yes about that. I know the slot of the PCI.e standard always stay the same, but I've seen some bifurcation risers specifically meant for PCI.e 2.0 or 3.0. Can they just as well reach 4.0 speeds or are they actually limited to 2.0 or 3.0 speeds? Not sure about the motherboard yet but it will be ITX and ofcourse has to support x8x8 in the bios / eufi. The splitter will probably be one from the "right ones" link above (C_Payne) but I don't really trust it yet because of the "No waranty" basically telling me getting a working one is 50/50 and if it's DOA there are no retours or payback. Well yes, that's why I am here. I asked how power delivery works. What is the logic and distribution behind the components pulling power? That's probably a whole story by itself so if you could tell me where to start looking that would be very much appreciated. I'm not really on power constraints but still thanks for the explanation. Sorry btw for the very late response, had some homework to do after you 2 replied so quickly

Q1: The 3090 pulls about 400W if I'm correct, and not 350 like Nvidia says. A PCI.e slot gives 75W so that leaves 325 Watt for 2 8-pin cables which are rated for 300W total. Does the card simply pull an extra 25 Watts from the cables? Not that an extra 12,5 Watt each matters that much but still, maybe it's 25W extra for only 1 of the 2 8-pins. Q2: I want to bifurcate 1 PCI.e x16 Gen 4 slot to 1x16 running at x8 speeds and 1x8 (prefer) or 1x16 running at x8 speeds. The x16 slot for the 3090 and the x8 slot for a x8 PCI.e SSD (or x16 but I think the controllers are specifically built for x16, so by that logic it probably would be slower than x8 on x8 speeds). How does the power delivery work? Because there's 50W coming at 12V and 25W at 3V & 5V. Are both simply split in half? Or does the SSD pull that 3V&5V 25 Watt and leave 50 for the GPU? But the GPU also uses that to communicate, I think. And would the GPU just pull the missing 12V power from the 2x8 pins? And does the splitter also use power? And if there's only 1 x16 to 2 x16 splitters, I put in the 3090 and I only use half of 1 splitted x16 for the x8 SSD, can I still get about 15GB/s assuming the splitted x16 slot is able to handle Gen 4 at x8 speeds? Q3: Can I use that x8 SSD in bifurcation, in Raid 1 with another PCI.e SSD on a m.2 pci.e motherboard slot, even if they're not the same speed or size. (Assuming it would work while using the lowest speed and size of the 2). And how would that affect real world performance? Would Smart Acces Memory still be possible without any comprimises? Wonder what will happen with a so named "400W TDP" Titan RTX 2... Thanks in advance!

Hello, For the past few months I've been developing Majora's Mask - The Legend of Zelda for LEGO Ideas. If that project gets allowed to be a real set I can make extended and extensive research into a new piece of technology which allows ITX PC's to be even smaller, have no moving parts and coil whining at all, while being passively cooled with 0 dB, and no realistic compromises on parts & power consumption. Only if you actually want to support this, here is a link (pun intended) to the LEGO Ideas page: https://ideas.lego.com/content/project/link/43de2865-1a38-487c-91c0-dbefc33e1b40 I have contacted multiple news outlets myself already, but up until this point no one has answered. If anyone knows a news outlet or someone that might want to write about a domino-project like this, please let me know so I can contact them. Keep in mind that I'm not specifically asking you to write an article, just if you happen to know someone who might. Thanks in advance! Quick example specs with what I mean by no compromises: 5950X, 256GB RAM, RTX 3090 or possibly new Titan or Quadro variant. @LogicalDrm Yes I know it's quite ironic about their no advertising rule. Thank you very much for taking the time writing what needed to be changed. Kind regards, Chef

There's quite a lot of possible tips depending on what you know already. Building a PC is easy, doing an outstanding job on it is hard. It requires knowlegde of science, physics, math, marketing, engineering and everything in between. So with this I'm expecting you know your way around a little bit, but definitly not from a "customize everything" standpoint. Here are some tips: 1. Please follow one of Linus's many build guides. 2. I know it's hard if you don't know all the ins and outs, but try to use common sense. If you're forcing something, you're probably doing it wrong. Stay calm with the USB 3 and 24-pin cables. Look up in the manual of the motherboard what slots 0 and 1 for the RAM slots are, place them in them; and then look up where the teeny tiny cables from the case go. They usually have a small black arrow on 1 side which indicates which wire is the positive one. 3. Spend a few days learning how power supplies work. The science behind it (please check the brand of capacitors used), the costs of your machine, why it costs that much, and please take a fully modulair one at this point. Check if you can hook everything up properly. If your motherboard asks for a 8-pin CPU connector, please put in 8-pins. If your graphics card asks for 2x 8-pins, please plug in all 16 of them, in parralel, without the need for adapters anywhere. Here you can learn about the connectors and what they do, but also watch linus's videos about PSU's and learn about efficiency because that will impact energy consumption invoice greatly, and the enviroment ofcourse: Playtool Link 4. Think about your enviroment in the sense of "do I have space for the case?". Is the RGB and / or shining light through the window going to annoy me (yes, the will)? Are the fans too loud (run it at full load for a while)? Do I want something that looks like a Mac and maybe passive cooling (Streacom or something like that, but it is expensive, make sure nothing has a fan in your system otherwise it's pointless)? Do I have speakers? A good monitor? A desk? A good chair (really important!)? A good ergonomic mouse and keyboard (If you're 3D modelling look up a SpaceMouse)? Do I want as mat (plastic) or glossy (glass) monitor (depends on the person, I regret buying a mat one. Your phone's glossy, your school monitors are mat.) 5. Buy your parts somewhere where you can build and test it yourself or let it be built by someone else, so you can directly swap out parts free of charge that have coil whine. It is the devil. It is usually caused by a graphics card, but a power supply is also a possibility. I know it costs extra and 'you didn't built it yourself' but if it's 50 bucks more than the retail price of the parts I would say suck it up cause it can save you a lot of time and headaches troubleshooting the damn thing. 6. Check PC Part Picker for compatibility. 7. If you got a wireless mouse, make sure the distance to the receiver is as short as possible because any possible interference will interfere. Put nothing in between! 8. Your Microsoft Windows 10 License is a Home edition and OEM, meaning 3 things: 1. If you're gonna spend that much on a license, buy the Pro version for a little bit more from Microsoft themselves. They will actually provide proper support if you need help. 2. You chose an OEM version meaning the seller needs to support you when you have problems with Windows, which they probably won't. 3. So if you're going OEM, just buy the 10 moneys one, Pro version. You're litterally getting ripped of with the 100 moneys Home version. 9. Write down the reasons why you need each part and why not a cheaper or more expensive one. Does it do the job that it needs to do and how well? Are there alternative solutions to the problem you are chasing? 10. Make sure it has proper WiFi if you need it. If you're in an area with lots of devices or bad connection it will be slow. So either invest in a WiFi 6 / Bluetooth 5.1 module (if they exist, idk) or run a cable from your modem / router downstairs to a 2nd router upstairs. Make sure there's no modem in it or it probably won't work. Thrift stores sometimes have 100mbps Sitecom routers for 2 moneys. If you already got your motherboard without wifi but still need it, buy a dongle or module with proper antenna's like that WiFi 6 card. 11. Don't forget about Microsoft Office, it ain't free. 12. Buy that controller. Pretty much the only genre for mouse and keyboard are first person shoots. Everyhting else is best played with a controller. 13. Do you want to overclock? Check your chipset compatibility and motherboard experience / reviews, maybe the phases on your motherboard, and if you're PSU can handle the Wattage you're pulling. Make sure the CPU power socket has all 8-pins plugged in. 4-pins is probably not enough to carry the Amperage. I suggest you just don't and keep the warranty. Even if it is safe and easy you're still losing years of your CPU's life. You might need those in times of low income when you don't have money to buy a new PC. 14. MSI is usually pretty expensive. Compare it to other videocards, sort from cheapest to most expensive. It can differ about 100 moneys or more while only losing 5 frames max. No that's not going to impact your experience. You can buy 200 copies of Shrek for that money. C'mon, common sense. Look up prices at PCPartPicker.com 15. Once you receive it, directly check if everything works properly. Connect the CPU, motherboard, RAM, and PSU; and check if it boots. Turn it off, connect the GPU and check again. Turn it off and then put it in the case. Always stay grounded and work in a proper, clean enviroment. Don't wear static clothing like wool. 16. Nothing, that's all, I've been writing for way too long. It's 3:34 I'm going to bed. GN BTW that hard drive is really very slow. Take 7200rpm as the absolute minimum. And check which key your SSD is and what your motherboard accepts.

Hello, The Streacom ZF240 has an external cable leading to a C14 plug instead of it directly being on the power supply itself. Now I have 2 of them, 1 to power a graphics card, and 1 for the rest of the system. Would it be safe to combine the 2 C14 cables to just 1 to prevent having 2 power cables taking up 2 sockets. Besides that it would look much more elegant. Thanks in advance! Note 1: They are daisy chained. The one with the GPU being the 2nd. Note 2: They don't have an ON/OFF switch like pretty much all modern PSU's have.

@thrasher_565 @kkpatel87 @Bombastinator @PriitM Thanks guys, it's solved now. I've learned quite a lot the past few days. I asked the manufacturer for the datasheet and pieced everything together, and it actually works. Thanks again!

It's usually so that if you lack PSU cables the power supply won't be powerful enough anyway and therefore cheap. But not in this case.

It's a new one in the sense that I bougt it new (the most recent one made, even). The model itself is several years old. Its i/o is just that of a regular ATX power supply. But that shouldn't have affect my questions much since a PSU is "dumb" hardware.

I did *not* cheap out on the PSU, it's one of the most expensive PSU's I've ever seen. (The wattage is perfectly fine btw.) But I can't change the model. That's why I asked for a direct solution instead of people telling me it's a bad idea and try something else.

What do you mean? The solution I'm working on is supposed to be not just long term, but very long term; and elegant and clean while I'm at it.

Sorry, not gonna fit. (Also, this power supply is the only one that will fit xd )

It's a brand new PSU actually, but I'm under nda and I can't tell you which one. I tested it and checked everything before so nothing bad happens to the other brand new hardware. But besides that it's new.

// Thanks in advance for reading. Please don't ask why, just try to answer the questions and don't come up with alternative solutions or rant about the power supply, it's fine. . It's been a long day... // I've landed in a situation where I'm one 12V PSU cable short for a second 8-pin power connector to power a Quadro RTX 8000. I have multiple questions: 1. Can someone explain to me how a GPU (or maybe even Asus' Hyper M.2 x16 card, or any other PCIe device) pulls power from the motherboard and / or power supply? Does it try to pull 75W from the PCIe socket first? In my case only 20 from the 24-pins are connected to the mobo because of the 8-pin power connectors for the GPU. Would the Asus Hyper PCIe card get in trouble with this? Does the GPU first pull the full 150W from one 8-pin and then the other, or is the load spread over both at the same time? And has the absence of 75W PCIe delivery any effect on this or does it use 3V and / or 5V lines for that? 2. I was about to ask if splitting a 12V CPU cable would be possible but then realized the PSU and cable wouldn't know which way to send the current. The wrong way will probably screw with the CPU. But why is it then that I can hook up multiple HDD's to the same cable? (My CPU underclocks heavily when the GPU gets loaded so it potentially opens up the use of a cable that, at that time, theoretically is not needed. Unless the CPU always need two 12V cables to function ofcourse. 3. Is splitting one CPU power cable even necessary? Could I just split another 12V cable, already in the 2nd 8-pin connector, just like a 2nd molex connector using the same cable to the PSU as the first one (it splits back out from the first one). What would be the maximum current for one 12V cable? 4. Bonus question: If you're working with 4K or 8K video footage on local storage (no nas or server) inside your PC. Is 128GB RAM enough? And would you rather choose a Quadro 8000 in SLI with a standard M.2 PCIe4 SSD -OR- at least 8TB of 15GBytes/s storage with one Quadro 8000? Again, thanks for reading all of that and hopefully answering some of my questions.