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About Chef-009

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  1. Hello, For the past few months I've been developing Majora's Mask - The Legend of Zelda for LEGO Ideas. If that project gets allowed to be a real set I can make extended and extensive research into a new piece of technology which allows ITX PC's to be even smaller, have no moving parts and coil whining at all, do have passive cooling so it's 0 dB, and no realistic compromises on parts & power consumption. Only if you actually want to support this, here is a link (pun intended) to the LEGO Ideas page: https://ideas.lego.com/content/project/link/43de2865-1a38-487c-91c0-dbefc33e1b40 I have contacted multiple news outlets myself already, but up until this point no one has answered. If anyone knows a news outlet or someone that might want to write about a domino-project like this, please let me know so I can contact them. Keep in mind that I'm not specifically asking you to write an article, just if you happen to know someone who might. Thanks in advance! Here is a little bit extented information about the PC project: Smallest achievable dimensions (for now): about 24 cm W, 25 cm D, 12 cm H. There will be a small overhang on the back which it about 3 cm Deep. PSU (also, for now): about 600 Watts (excl. 3V and 5V), the cooling is able to handle all of it for extended periods of time. The PSU, just like all other devices, is internal. It has no adapter brick or weird power cable either. The whole system doesn't have any real compromises. Quick example specs with what I mean by no compromises: 3950X, 64GB RAM, RTX 3090 or possibly new Titan or Quadro variant. @LogicalDrm Yes I know it's quite ironic about their no advertising rule. Thank you very much for taking the time writing what needed to be changed. Kind regards, Chef
  2. There's quite a lot of possible tips depending on what you know already. Building a PC is easy, doing an outstanding job on it is hard. It requires knowlegde of science, physics, math, marketing, engineering and everything in between. So with this I'm expecting you know your way around a little bit, but definitly not from a "customize everything" standpoint. Here are some tips: 1. Please follow one of Linus's many build guides. 2. I know it's hard if you don't know all the ins and outs, but try to use common sense. If you're forcing something, you're probably doing it wrong. Stay calm with the USB 3 and 24-pin cables. Look up in the manual of the motherboard what slots 0 and 1 for the RAM slots are, place them in them; and then look up where the teeny tiny cables from the case go. They usually have a small black arrow on 1 side which indicates which wire is the positive one. 3. Spend a few days learning how power supplies work. The science behind it (please check the brand of capacitors used), the costs of your machine, why it costs that much, and please take a fully modulair one at this point. Check if you can hook everything up properly. If your motherboard asks for a 8-pin CPU connector, please put in 8-pins. If your graphics card asks for 2x 8-pins, please plug in all 16 of them, in parralel, without the need for adapters anywhere. Here you can learn about the connectors and what they do, but also watch linus's videos about PSU's and learn about efficiency because that will impact energy consumption invoice greatly, and the enviroment ofcourse: Playtool Link 4. Think about your enviroment in the sense of "do I have space for the case?". Is the RGB and / or shining light through the window going to annoy me (yes, the will)? Are the fans too loud (run it at full load for a while)? Do I want something that looks like a Mac and maybe passive cooling (Streacom or something like that, but it is expensive, make sure nothing has a fan in your system otherwise it's pointless)? Do I have speakers? A good monitor? A desk? A good chair (really important!)? A good ergonomic mouse and keyboard (If you're 3D modelling look up a SpaceMouse)? Do I want as mat (plastic) or glossy (glass) monitor (depends on the person, I regret buying a mat one. Your phone's glossy, your school monitors are mat.) 5. Buy your parts somewhere where you can build and test it yourself or let it be built by someone else, so you can directly swap out parts free of charge that have coil whine. It is the devil. It is usually caused by a graphics card, but a power supply is also a possibility. I know it costs extra and 'you didn't built it yourself' but if it's 50 bucks more than the retail price of the parts I would say suck it up cause it can save you a lot of time and headaches troubleshooting the damn thing. 6. Check PC Part Picker for compatibility. 7. If you got a wireless mouse, make sure the distance to the receiver is as short as possible because any possible interference will interfere. Put nothing in between! 8. Your Microsoft Windows 10 License is a Home edition and OEM, meaning 3 things: 1. If you're gonna spend that much on a license, buy the Pro version for a little bit more from Microsoft themselves. They will actually provide proper support if you need help. 2. You chose an OEM version meaning the seller needs to support you when you have problems with Windows, which they probably won't. 3. So if you're going OEM, just buy the 10 moneys one, Pro version. You're litterally getting ripped of with the 100 moneys Home version. 9. Write down the reasons why you need each part and why not a cheaper or more expensive one. Does it do the job that it needs to do and how well? Are there alternative solutions to the problem you are chasing? 10. Make sure it has proper WiFi if you need it. If you're in an area with lots of devices or bad connection it will be slow. So either invest in a WiFi 6 / Bluetooth 5.1 module (if they exist, idk) or run a cable from your modem / router downstairs to a 2nd router upstairs. Make sure there's no modem in it or it probably won't work. Thrift stores sometimes have 100mbps Sitecom routers for 2 moneys. If you already got your motherboard without wifi but still need it, buy a dongle or module with proper antenna's like that WiFi 6 card. 11. Don't forget about Microsoft Office, it ain't free. 12. Buy that controller. Pretty much the only genre for mouse and keyboard are first person shoots. Everyhting else is best played with a controller. 13. Do you want to overclock? Check your chipset compatibility and motherboard experience / reviews, maybe the phases on your motherboard, and if you're PSU can handle the Wattage you're pulling. Make sure the CPU power socket has all 8-pins plugged in. 4-pins is probably not enough to carry the Amperage. I suggest you just don't and keep the warranty. Even if it is safe and easy you're still losing years of your CPU's life. You might need those in times of low income when you don't have money to buy a new PC. 14. MSI is usually pretty expensive. Compare it to other videocards, sort from cheapest to most expensive. It can differ about 100 moneys or more while only losing 5 frames max. No that's not going to impact your experience. You can buy 200 copies of Shrek for that money. C'mon, common sense. Look up prices at PCPartPicker.com 15. Once you receive it, directly check if everything works properly. Connect the CPU, motherboard, RAM, and PSU; and check if it boots. Turn it off, connect the GPU and check again. Turn it off and then put it in the case. Always stay grounded and work in a proper, clean enviroment. Don't wear static clothing like wool. 16. Nothing, that's all, I've been writing for way too long. It's 3:34 I'm going to bed. GN BTW that hard drive is really very slow. Take 7200rpm as the absolute minimum. And check which key your SSD is and what your motherboard accepts.
  3. Hello, The Streacom ZF240 has an external cable leading to a C14 plug instead of it directly being on the power supply itself. Now I have 2 of them, 1 to power a graphics card, and 1 for the rest of the system. Would it be safe to combine the 2 C14 cables to just 1 to prevent having 2 power cables taking up 2 sockets. Besides that it would look much more elegant. Thanks in advance! Note 1: They are daisy chained. The one with the GPU being the 2nd. Note 2: They don't have an ON/OFF switch like pretty much all modern PSU's have.
  4. @thrasher_565 @kkpatel87 @Bombastinator @PriitM Thanks guys, it's solved now. I've learned quite a lot the past few days. I asked the manufacturer for the datasheet and pieced everything together, and it actually works. Thanks again!
  5. It's usually so that if you lack PSU cables the power supply won't be powerful enough anyway and therefore cheap. But not in this case.
  6. It's a new one in the sense that I bougt it new (the most recent one made, even). The model itself is several years old. Its i/o is just that of a regular ATX power supply. But that shouldn't have affect my questions much since a PSU is "dumb" hardware.
  7. I did *not* cheap out on the PSU, it's one of the most expensive PSU's I've ever seen. (The wattage is perfectly fine btw.) But I can't change the model. That's why I asked for a direct solution instead of people telling me it's a bad idea and try something else.
  8. What do you mean? The solution I'm working on is supposed to be not just long term, but very long term; and elegant and clean while I'm at it.
  9. Sorry, not gonna fit. (Also, this power supply is the only one that will fit xd )
  10. It's a brand new PSU actually, but I'm under nda and I can't tell you which one. I tested it and checked everything before so nothing bad happens to the other brand new hardware. But besides that it's new.
  11. // Thanks in advance for reading. Please don't ask why, just try to answer the questions and don't come up with alternative solutions or rant about the power supply, it's fine. . It's been a long day... // I've landed in a situation where I'm one 12V PSU cable short for a second 8-pin power connector to power a Quadro RTX 8000. I have multiple questions: 1. Can someone explain to me how a GPU (or maybe even Asus' Hyper M.2 x16 card, or any other PCIe device) pulls power from the motherboard and / or power supply? Does it try to pull 75W from the PCIe socket first? In my case only 20 from the 24-pins are connected to the mobo because of the 8-pin power connectors for the GPU. Would the Asus Hyper PCIe card get in trouble with this? Does the GPU first pull the full 150W from one 8-pin and then the other, or is the load spread over both at the same time? And has the absence of 75W PCIe delivery any effect on this or does it use 3V and / or 5V lines for that? 2. I was about to ask if splitting a 12V CPU cable would be possible but then realized the PSU and cable wouldn't know which way to send the current. The wrong way will probably screw with the CPU. But why is it then that I can hook up multiple HDD's to the same cable? (My CPU underclocks heavily when the GPU gets loaded so it potentially opens up the use of a cable that, at that time, theoretically is not needed. Unless the CPU always need two 12V cables to function ofcourse. 3. Is splitting one CPU power cable even necessary? Could I just split another 12V cable, already in the 2nd 8-pin connector, just like a 2nd molex connector using the same cable to the PSU as the first one (it splits back out from the first one). What would be the maximum current for one 12V cable? 4. Bonus question: If you're working with 4K or 8K video footage on local storage (no nas or server) inside your PC. Is 128GB RAM enough? And would you rather choose a Quadro 8000 in SLI with a standard M.2 PCIe4 SSD -OR- at least 8TB of 15GBytes/s storage with one Quadro 8000? Again, thanks for reading all of that and hopefully answering some of my questions.
  12. As the title says. And I'm not talking about Apple, HP, or Alienware. I think something comparable to Rolex or Tesla, a PC with such a high price point that just doesn't exist anymore. Let's say 10.000 Dollar / Euro per model. And rule the max. specs out like the best CPU, GPU, and a high amount of memory and storage. Then we got features like a good looking case with a built-in wireless charger & fingerprint sensor, and maybe energy-efficiency left, but what else could possibly be added?
  13. Hello, If I were to underclock a Ryzen 3950x (16c/32t, 3,5GHz, about 145W max.) to have the same power consumption as the 3600x (6c/12t, 3,8GHz, about 76W max.), would I get about the same performance? Even if they're using the same architecture, the answer is probably no since the corecount on the 3950x is much higher. But at what point becomes the coreclock so low it evens out with the 3600x performance wise? Or in other words: At what point becomes frequency stronger than the amount of cores? I'm asking this because of the 3950x laptop video LTT made a few days ago. The TDP of that machine was 65 Watts if I'm correct so the 3950x was underclocked. And I had the question if they wouldn't be better of with a cheaper CPU using less cores but then at a higher frequency (I suppose). Probably not, I'm sure the manifacturers tested it. Otherwise they wouldn't have done it because it would be a waste of money, OR they just did it because of the marketing.) Please don't ask for the point of it or try to change the concept / come up with ideas that evade the root of this problem. Please just answer the question. Thanks in advance :)
  14. Yeah probably, but it does have the best performance per liter