Gill

I took some screenshots of my bios again, and oh boy... very confused. Here I used the Adaptive Vcore instead of Override Vcore. I was told Override is better/smarter but I don't know how to use it without screwing things up. I set the Internal CPU Vcore to Normal and then Internal CPU Vcore Offset to -0.050V You can see on the right side that the voltage is 1.356v but I know from HWMonitor_x64 that under stress it goes up to 1.368v Turbo Power Limits - What the hell do I do here if I want to limit it so my cooling handle 90deg? My AVX was disabled, so I enabled it here (I think) These are some of the readings I get with stock settings (no voltage changes, no clock changes) after over 4 minutes of run. Vcore=1.260v VRout=1.206v Core VIDs=1.289v CPU Package power = 213w Ambient = 19deg

Nah, mate. You explained ok. My noobiness is the problem here. I was actually using negative offest, you were correct in your assumption. See the 4th screenshot. I used Voltage override and set the Vcore voltage to -0.001v and it was already unstable. Taking your advice, do you recommend that I reduce 100Mhz from the 2 hottest cores and the reduce a fixed value voltage from Vcore? Also, given I'm reducing voltage, do I really need to change anything in LLC? Lastly, what do you reckon on the AVX settings I have?

I didn't set anything yet. so you're saying by setting LLC to low, it should already provide low voltage or current to the CPU and help with thermals? Or is it just a precurser to reducing voltage afterwards? I've done reading as much as I can about these settings, but I don't understand the relationship between them and the combination I need to use in order to effectively reduce voltage and therefore thermals, without impacting performance.

I ran Cinebench R23 multicore test. Max Vcore stock settings = 1.368v Max core clocks stock settings = 4.9Ghz Some cores reached 90+ degrees Before making any changes, this is my current setting:

I don't know. I'm afraid to try again and do some damage.

It is currently set to Auto (Default). Yesterday I tried to set it to Standard and set Vcore to Voltage Override and reduced by -0.001v and that was enough to fail Prime95. Clearly, something is not done right by me.

Hi. I'm interested in UNDER-VOLTING the CPU without loosing performance and no OC. Stock speeds. I got the following specs: Gigabyte AORUS RTX 3070 Master Graphics Card Gigabyte AORUS Z590i Ultra motherboard Intel Core i9 11900KF Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB 3200Hz Crucial 2TB M.2 SSD CoolerMaster ML240R AIO Liquid Cooler - Radiator is side-mounted and fans are pulling air out. CoolerMaster NR200P Case CoolerMaster SFX V 850W Power Supply CoolerMaster SF240R Top fans - Fans are pulling air out. I used Prime95 to benchmark. In the BIOS settings, I used Vcore offset and tried to reduce by 0.001v and the system froze. I think there are other settings required to be adjusted as well like LLC and others, but I don't know really. The VID max = 1.2590v (Prime95, not using AVX. Using smallest FFT) VRout max measured 1.340v and 1.289v average. CPU cores are reaching 90c(!) with AIO watercooling. Ambient temps are 19c. Can someone please help out?

I don't want to overclock. I'm happy with the current speeds. I'm actually looking to under-volt without changing clock speeds to get more cooling.

What the recommened way to tweak that in afterburner so voltage is not limiting the highest peak gpu clock? (while staying stable)

I have Gigabyte RTX3070 Aorus Ultra. Based on their site: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N3070AORUS-M-8GD-rev-10-11/sp#sp Yet, in GPU-Z I see: What is this Memory clock 14000Mhz? This is under small load: So what are my GPU real/max clock speeds and memory speeds? Thanks.

Hi. I got the following specs: Gigabyte AORUS RTX 3070 Master Graphics Card Gigabyte AORUS Z590i Ultra motherboard Intel Core i9 11900KF Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB 3200Hz Crucial 2TB M.2 SSD CoolerMaster ML240R AIO Liquid Cooler - Radiator is side-mounted and fans are pulling air out. CoolerMaster NR200P Case CoolerMaster SFX V 850W Power Supply CoolerMaster SF240R Top fans - Fans are pulling air out. BIOS and vBIOS are up to date. PC is NOT overclocked and this time I don't intend to due to the limited cooling option for this small case. I won this PC in a competition. I didn't choose the specs. I'm not familiar with the current BIOS terminology for CPU and voltages. It's been years since I OC'd my PCs, so I'm out of touch. I'm also less familiar with Gigabyte BIOS. Room ambient is 22c. I'm not sure if the temps I'm seeing are normal or can be improved by undervolting. These are the following temps in idle: If anyone can please help out or even have a one-on-one chat to help me out with my BIOS setting to optimise for performance and cooling as best as possibly can with my rig, I'd buy you a beer, or two Running Prime95, I get to 100c quite fast Thank you!

Hi all. I’m building me PC and I stumbled upon a problem. The the case doesn’t seem to have HDD activity LED wiring for the MB. In addition, the front header cables came organised with the bracket for easier connection on the MB but it contradicts the MB manual. What I mean is that on the wire terminal there is a little arrow that is the + but the way it is arranged in the little bracket seems opposite than what the MB manual suggests. I hope I was able to explain myself. I’m a bit confused. Should I take the cables out of the bracket and wire it manually? Is it normal to not have HDD activity led? Appreciate any help.

Thanks

Got this CM case and CM AIO 240mm rad cooler. I know the pump must be lower than the rad/res for AIO. Given the limitation of the small case, I decided to mount the rads on the side panel, however, should the I have the inlet/outlet tubes on the pump be on top or bottom?

That's the WiFi in my place. My ssid is the Asus. I was too lazy to configure all the clients with the TP link ssid name, so I reused the Asus ssid. I'm lost.

I don't have a cordless phone. I could be watching a youtube movie at 12 AM and suddenly connection drops. So nothing in the house gets triggered at this hour to cause such issues. I thought about maybe a neighbour is using some new device that causes these issues, but at such random times like middle of the night? Like, it needs to be a person who's arriving at that time and I hardly believe it's the case. If it's a router, then this should cause disconnections every second. I started to think about conspiracy theories I recently started to watch about the true secrets of the pyramids and the disclosure project, with steve greer and interviews with david adair and all those men-in-black UFO stuff, so people who don't want me to know about this are disconnecting me ? when I can't find a reasonable answer, I look elsewhere... hi, don't judge I'm desperate to solve this... Many suggested to get the Ubiquiti, but I do need a router since my main PC must be wired to a router. AFAIK, the Ubiquiti are just AP's. I also need a router that can provide NAS abilities for my HDD media drive. Not sure that Ubiquiti AP's have that.

All devices comply with b/g/n and some ac standard. The only g standard in my old Wii. However, I ran with the Asus router for 10 months with no issue on the 2.4Ghz and during all the time, no new devices were introduced. The only real change was updating my Android phone from 7.1.2 to Android 9. So all this time I was using the same devices and I didn't have any network config changes. I didn't move the router's location... absolutely nothing. This issue started last month. I returned the router and am using the backup router and I get the same results... this drives me nuts. I used wifi analyzer and the best channel is 1. This backup router doesn't have MIMO technology but I did try the 40Hz as well. It still happens.

Hi all. In the last month, I started to encounter wifi dropouts on the 2.4ghz only. By dropouts I mean the iOS, Android and IoT devices would lose connection and try to regain connection with no success. Mobile devices would show the WiFi icon with an exclamation mark. This would happen randomly throughout the day. Sometimes at 12:13 AM sometimes at 18 PM, and the frequency will vary. It can happen every 15 minutes, where a router reboot will sort it out for the next ~15 minutes. It can work for 2 or 3 days and then it happens again. I couldn't find a cause for this. I couldn't boil it down to one thing. I'm lost as to why this happens, so much that I replaced my Asus DSL-AC88U with a backup router and it happens with that router as well. So if it's not a router issue, what could cause the 2.4Ghz band to drop the connection and then disappear entirely from the list of available wifi access points? I have about 12 wifi clients. My main PC is using LAN cable so I don't experience connectivity issues. My current tp-link backup router supports on 2.4Ghz, however, my previous Asus router had 5Ghz and there were NO issues with the 5Ghz band. I would appreciate any help with trying to figure this out. I'm also in need of a new daily driver router out of this list Thank you.

swap file = paging file?

anyone?

Hi all, Over this weekend I've been testing my RAM modules due to a request I got from technical support. I use Private Internet Access VPN and if I leave my VPN running for 24 hours, at some point its process will get killed. The support told me that I probably have a memory leak due to log files warnings, and I was asked to test my RAM. I own 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz on XMP profile over Z97 chipset. I used latest Memtest86 build and I tested each RAM module individually on each DIMM slot. Each RAM module was tested to 10 passes, which I believe is enough to establish an issue. No errors were presented. Ye, memtest86 is not enough because I don't really stress the RAM controller in dual channel mode. So I installed all RAM modules back in place, ran Win10 and disabled all 3rd party processes that boot with windows. I also killed every process which is not required. I launched latest Prime95 build and did a Custom test and allocated 14500MB (no FFT) and have only fixed 1024MB of virtual memory (manually handled, that is, not handled by Windows). I started the test on Aug 27, 08:57AM Worker #6 stopped working on Aug 28, 6:05AM with the following message: Cannot initialize FFT code, errorcode=1005 Unable to allocate memory. One possible cause is the operating system's swap area is too small. Torture test completed 276 tests in 21 hours, 7 minutes - 0 errors, 0 warnings. Worker stopped. All other workres are still running. Is this a HW issue? Configuration issue? or some OS corruption?

I don't know what is the creator update. Is it windows update? How do I turn game mode off?

Hi all,Running latest Win10 64 update has ruined my FPS and also my 2nd GPU is not scaling up.I use two R9 290 with latest AMD recommended drivers.I use GPU-Z 1.20 and I run the Render Test. I can see how both GPU's show:GPU 1 - PCI-Express x16 3.0 @ x8 1.1GPU 2 - PCI-Express x16 3.0 @ x8 1.1BIOS hasn't changed and I use strictly AMD GPU's and not intel iGPU, though it does get detected by GPU-zI don't know how to capture screenshot while the render test runs.I disable ULPS manually through the entire registry.The driver installation was made after cleaning previous driver with DDU.Crossfire option is enabled by default under global settings in AMD control panel. Under stress, the 2nd GPU is not being used. Anyway, can someone please assist me??

You missed my point because I probably didn't explain myself better. The iGPU never showed up in Device Manager. Because I never installed the drivers for it. It's only when I first plugged in a monitor to the onboard HDMI port, that windows suddenly knew of its existence and suddenly it appeared in Device Manager. Since it's appearance, I'm getting issues with correct performance reading on GPU-Z. I'm not using beta drivers, I'm using latest official drivers by AMD. The BSOD I got was: thread stuck in device driver Now, if I set both GPU's to GEN 3 in BIOS, windows won't boot. Furthermore, removing the intel iGPU drivers will cause windows not to boot. I have no idea what's going on here.

However it seems that it does. here is why: Up until few days ago, Win10 didn't have the iGPU hardware in device manager at all. It didn't know of it's existance. Since the issue I had with BSOD, I then had to use the iGPU with the onboard HDMI port to connect one of the monitors. Since then, the iGPU appears on the Device Manager section and since then, GPU-z reports 1.1 on GPU's under load, instead of x8 3.0 Is there way to remove it altogether and make windows unaware of the iGPU? removing the drivers is not enough, it keeps finding it's hardware.