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Nebman227

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  1. I am aware that the default is the boot drive. There is a windows setting under "Change where new content is saved" that many online resources and windows itself say will change the default install location for apps. That's what I was asking about. Also, as I said in the post, I've been setting my install location manually each time I install something for years, so I know how it works. I always go for the changing the drive letter first, but the crux of my annoyance is the many programs will not let you edit that box or throw a fit if you don't have the folder already created.
  2. Yeah that would make sense. I wonder why none of the articles that suggest using this setting mention it as the caveat makes the setting practically useless. Or do other people use windows apps more than me? I genuinely think I have only opened the windows store once in my life.
  3. I was kind of thinking installers doing their own thing might be the case. Don't think I've ever installed a windows app, so if it works there I wouldn't know. Also, after all the times I've tried to look into this I found some articles about changing registry keys (HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion) to make this work right after posting this. It seems that the associated key is not changed by the windows setting, so I'm not even sure what the setting does. Haven't decided if I'm gonna try messing with my registry but I'll try to come back here and report back if I do I guess.
  4. I have a very small boot drive and a separate larger HDD and SSD. For the most part, I never want anything saved to the boot drive (and realistically couldn't even if I did want to). For years, I've had my windows "Change where new content is saved" settings set to the HDD by default. However, I'd say about 9/10 of the time, when I go to install a new program it defaults to the boot drive and I have to manually make an install folder and direct the installer to it anyways. Googling this issue only gives tutorials on how to set the setting I already have set and I cannot seem to find any discussion of this problem. Does this setting just not work? Is there any way other than this setting to make programs behave the way that I'd like them to? EDIT: Honestly, thinking back on it I cannot think of a single instance of it working. That 1/10 covers my forgetfulness.
  5. I bought a new phone a couple weeks back and with it have started the process of changing carrier. In the interim, I have been using my old phone with my old carrier. I have already paid for the first month of the plan, however my phone number has not been transferred yet (I've told the new carrier my number, but not given the final ok yet). Today, I received the SIM card from my new carrier in the mail and put it into my new phone. On startup, I received a notification that I had 2 new texts. I opened the notification and there were two texts from 4 days ago, sent by people that I know, that I had never, and still haven't, received on my old phone. I have texted back and forth with both people since that time with all messages coming to my old phone. There was an incredibly short period where I had 0 texts left (TracFone doesn't do unlimited texting), that I believe was no longer than a hour or two and I'm pretty sure didn't line up with these two texts. How and why could this happen? I'm worried that I could have missed some other texts and a little perplexed as to how they came to my new phone with the new SIM card. If it matters, I'm going from a Galaxy s7 to a Pixel 3a and from TracFone to Verizon.
  6. Recently, I pulled my pc out of sleep mode and the secondary monitor never displayed anything. It was turned on, my mouse would go to it, and there were windows open on it, but none of it was displayed. In order to access the windows I disabled the secondary display in order to gain access to those windows. Re-enabling the display caused my desktop to show for a second and then go black. I tried toggling it on and off a few times, to no avail. When the secondary monitor would show a "no signal" image when it was toggled off. I thought that it might be something strange in monitor settings, so I tried pulling up the monitor settings with the on-monitor button during the brief second that it worked. Amazingly, it stayed on. I happily used it for a few hours without bothering to find out what the problem had been. The next time I went to use the computer, the problem was back and the solution that I used before did not work. I have since updated my graphics drivers and used the all-powerful Google, but have not found a solution. Specs: OS: Windows 10 64-Bit Mobo: MSI B250M Bazooka CPU: Intel Core i3-7100 GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB Memory: 2x T-Force DARK 4GB DDR4 Storage: SanDisk Ultra II 240Gb (boot drive) Seagate 2TB BarraCuda PSU: Seasonic M12II Bronze 520W 80Plus
  7. I recently bought my self a Siberia 350 headset as an upgrade to what I already had. With it came a slew of problems. I'm not going to go into the problems themselves, as they are not what this is about. In my research about the problems, I learned that my problems were probably caused by bad drivers. However, in searching online I could not find a single place that offered manual download of drivers for any Steelseries headphone. Under the Drivers & Downloads section of the Steelseries site, there are absolutely no drivers and not a single other site even alluded to them existing. Does anyone know of a place that I can find drivers for my headphones to manually download?
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