JChalant

Hello gang! I started a thread in displays thinking something was wrong with my monitor, but after troubleshooting moreso I believe I have an issue with my capture card, and while i'm awaiting response from Avermedia (HD2 GC570) I thought I'd explain what's happening here in peripherals as it seemed the most appropriate place to have a talk about it From my GTX 1070, directly to Monitor A, using HDMI = everything fine From my Capture card to Monitor A, green saturation of screen I disconnected Monitor A, and plug in monitor B. Monitor B green saturated. After about 20 min. of me walking away from the headache a while, it apparently self corrected. Huzzah! Broke for lunch and returned to find that Monitor B green saturated again when turned on. (booo) Got sick of looking at a green saturated monitor while troubleshooting, so I plugged Display port [from GTX 1070] into Monitor A. Monitor B self corrects immediately, Monitor A everything fine. OK, so let me swap the HDMI from Monitor B, back in to monitor A .... and Displayport from A to B.....and everything is fine again! So I guess this thread is more about sharing a frustrating experience so that others who may search for it can find this solution. I am certain, CERTAIN, that all cables were properly seated in. So did I just kind of reset the signals? And if so, how come I haven't really heard of ANYTHING regarding HDMI causing green saturation? Has anyone here experienced HDMI signal discrepancies when passing through a device to final output? So many questions left unanswered for me, despite stumbling upon a workaround I don't really understand....and I guess that's why I'm really here...to firm up the scientific method and isolate the actual cause and actual solution. Anyone interested?

It may not be the monitor! The following didnt happen last time.... I swapped out all the HDMI cables to get this thing ready for packing and transport, but when I plugged in to another monitor, the same thing happened! But get this, I walked away in frustration for 10 minutes, and when I came back monitor B was normal again. breaking for lunch to think about it, and the screen on Monitor B was saturated green again. It may just be, My avermedia Live Gamer 2HD GC570. Exploring their forums, others have had similar issues, but none seemed to have nailed down the issue. I'm heading off to more appropriate forums, but if anyone here happens to know why/how an HDMI signal would get adjusted to cause this kind of output after throughput? WHAT THE HECK! Before sending this message I got sick of the green so I plugged my Display port from 1070 to Monitor A directly, and in that moment Monitor B snapped back into color balance! TZooo, thanks for your time but I'm thinking more and more that this thread needs to be in capture cards, if such a thing exists..gonna thread hop looking for it, while leaving this trail here for those desperately seeking a solution to similar through forum searches.

Hello friends! If anyone else has had this issue, I'd appreciate your help. A few months ago my ASUS monitor started saturating the entire screen green. I sent it in for RMA and when it returned it worked for a little while, but now its super saturated green again. It only happens when im using the HDMI, and I know what you're thinking, but I HAVE to use HDMI instead of display port for pass through connections. I'm going to try RMA again, but does anyone have any idea what they would have done that would have repaired it briefly instead of completely? Update: the HDMI comes from an Avermedia Capture card (internal card), and when i plugged it directly to my 1070, the monitor is back to full color. BUT!!!!! it was working fine until this morning, just as it was working fine before when this issue happened before, and I need to be able to screen capture for tutorials and the like. Thank! ~JC

EDIT: Discharging the battery using the paperclip hole on the rear seems to have corrected my issue. I also bought this. I also experienced black screen. Within a week, during the "burn in" period I run to install essential business tools and etc., the screen went dark, but the YouTube video I had running in the background played through the audio. Then the thing apparently died, which is odd because I had left it charging for over 48 hours, or so I thought...perhaps it was using power while plugged in and the battery went dead....and that is why my screen went dark. As a battery saving mechanism. But I doubt it. I'm in the middle of [hoping] recharging it to see if that resolves, otherwise the number one YouTube solution I've found is to disconnect the battery and discharge the device because apparently the screen is over charged? Also, there is a contact number on the back of mine, 1-888-447-6564 M-F, 0500-0400 PST. I plan on calling tomorrow during the more routine business hours, though it's nice that they have 23 hour coverage. I'll keep you updated in case we track along similar issue. Peace! ~JC

Is it possible to disable the pixel 2 sensor so I can use my D-brand skin and make a phone call? For those that don't know, the engineers have made it so the phone interface shuts off whenever the sensor detects something in front of it, presumably thinking it would be your face and not wanting you to accidentally press buttons while making a phone call. I'm not sure why they thought creating a critical failure point was wise, after all any number of things could make your sensor break making the phone unusable, but apparently marketing won out for the lowest common denominator on this one. Anyone with a solution on how to disable this "feature", I would really appreciate it! Sincerely, ~JC

TLDR: Current Rig is struggling to keep up with growth of small business and content creation, will exchange build log of new rig (including shots of current) for advice and guidance on the following system. Why are you upgrading/Aim? Current Rig is struggling to keep up with rendering demands of content creation and video editing services I've begun providing in my small business, and I've been contemplating a new VR capable build for a while, so when one of my drives went bad-disk on me, I decided that was the last straw. This rig will be re-purposed into a media center slash Steam gaming for the living room, and a new Rig that is VR capable but with an emphasis on rendering shall be built for both business and potential VR gaming review on current YouTube channel with co-host/team I've built up over the last couple years. Monitors/Peripherals: I'm currently using an 1080 ASUS IPS as my central monitor and some old dell 720 as a secondary. This will continue forward until a monitor purchase during black Friday sales I think, where I will be looking for 3 low bezel higher def monitors to act as primary, and moving the 1080 to off-monitor. Peripherals are good for now, I'll custom those later. I liked the 'WD dream machine for good' build as a template, and so without further ado... CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K Haswell-E 6-Core 3.3GHz LGA 2011-v3 (Seems the best bang for buck [BFB] for what I think I need) MOBO: ASUS ATX DDR4 3000 LGA 2011-3 Motherboards X99-DELUXE/U3.1 OR: ASUS LGA2011-v3 5-Way Optimization SafeSlot X99 ATX Motherboard X99-DELUXE II (Do I want a thunderbolt upgrade? Will I need it? I *DO* like the idea of having ~some~ RGB glow coming from the case so I have just a splash of bling BOOT: Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB M.2 SSD (I have never really gotten the cool new thing for any of my builds, so I think I'd like to get in on this M.2 even if it is a bit pricier than an SSD. I mean, the MOBO has the ability so why not right? Also, I've always wanted to know if load screen for my MMO of choice would be faster loading into ram if it came from an SSD, so why not experiment? Please let me down gently if I'm being a noob STORAGE: 4 or 5 WD green 3TB in Raid 5. (I considered blacks in raid 1, but think greens in raid 5 gives me more BFB) COOLING: Noctua NH-U14 + case fans I may live in a desert, but I simply don't have the space for a water bong cooler. MEMORY: 32GB (4x8GB) Corsair Vengeance DDR4 (2666) POWER: McFly....Hoverboards don't work without power! (seriously though, I think 750 is enough. some Corsair modular gold rated here, haven't done the math yet) CASE: UNK. I'm thinking I want something with a front door behind which I could hot swap the drives that may fail in the future. (note to self, verify mobo's support hot swapping), but other than that, I think I just need something with good space and flow with its own fans until I can upgrade to some noctuas over time as they fail. I windowed side panel would be nice, but if the best BFB case for me out there doesn't have one, so be it. BUDGET: Trying to keep it around 1800-2000 USD. not including the GTX 1070 I'm gonna grab up Final thoughts: There you have it my friends, build log to follow in the appropriate forum soon. I'll be scavenging an Avermedia HD card from the old rig but as I said it will be cleaned out and dusted up, re-cable managed and put to pasture in the living room. Comments and guidance are appreciated. LTT affiliate links upon completion of planning stage will be requested Thank you for your time! John 'JC' Chalant