K0stas

All my PC components have arrived and I connected everything, so I wanted to give you an update regarding what I did and how well it worked in case someone else has the same problem as me. In the end, I went with the old fashioned way and connected everything using standard cables. I bought a 7.5M 2.1 HDMI to connect my PC with my monitor and a short 2.1 cable to connect my TV to my PC. I used the Stouchi 8K HDMI 2.1 7.5 m, CL3 In Wall cable which worked just fine even though it's right at the length limit of HDMI cables. I could also have gone with the maxonar 7m cable which is certified too but the stouchi one was on sale. Connecting 2 monitors with different resolutions and Hz is not ideal but if you don't mind changing the resolution and HZ every time you use your PC with either your monitor or TV then it's fine. I only do it when I am gaming on my TV anyways so it doesn't bother me personally. Regarding the USB, I went with a 5m active usb extender by MutecPower combined with the Tp-link 720 which worked just fine. I have my wired keyboard, wireless mouse, audio interface and hard drives on my usb hub without any issues. The only "problem" is that If I want to enter the bios I have to plug my mouse and keyboard directly to my PC which is not a big issue for me. A wireless keyboard plugged directly on my PC would solve this but I would have to charge it quite often due to the less than ideal distance draining the batteries. One very important thing to keep in mind is that if you want to use a long, over 7.5+m HDMI cable to connect your PC to your home theater receiver is to not get an optical HDMI. Good optical cables are reliable no matter their length but they cannot pass-through HD audio such as dolby atmos or DTS-HD. If you need to connect your receiver with your PC and you need something longer than 7.5m to do so I would recommend you either a Zidoo TV if you mainly watch local content or a Nvidia shield for streaming content (Plex, netflix etc) and gaming. Another solution which works just fine for me is using the Plex app on your TV to play movies and use the e-arc pass-through to send the audio signal to your receiver. I hope that was helpful

An update for anyone who has the same issue as me. The culprit was the default settings. When I used the automatic option to set all settings to default, I should have saved and restarted before updating the BIOS. I also loaded the file straight from my SSD and not from a USB drive like NumLock21 suggested. Once I clicked the "read file" option, same thing happened as before, meaning my PC restarted right away, but this time it booted straight to BIOS and the installation of the update started right away! Thank you everyone who replied to this thread and helped me find a solution.

Oh, good to know! I will try that next time!

This is what I did, I used the Ez flash options in the bios. I followed the Asus instructions and I was supposed to copy the update file to a formatted usb drive and then load it from the bios using Ez flash.

Yes, I renamed the bios file too. So true! When 15 minutes passed and nothing was happening I pressed the reset button with a broken heart... I was so relieved when it booted... The thing is that the newest bios update is not Beta and is a fix for the known issues regarding voltage issues so this is why I was so eager to update. BTW, Since the beginning, my PC is taking a while to start after pressing the on button. It turns on right away but it needs some time (about 10 seconds) to cycle the motherboard leds (CPU, Dram, VGA) before it sends any signal to my monitor. Is this normal?

Right after I clicked the read bios file option the processing bar appeared and it rebooted right away before the bar loads. I used the default optimized settings option but when I restarted the PC after the update failure, my bios were the same as before setting them to default. Do I need to save and exit after choosing the default setting and then re enter the bios to update?

Goodday everyone! I have been trying to update my bios today without any success. I downloaded the latest bios from Asus' site (TUF GAMING B650-PLUS WIFI BIOS 1616), I formatted a usb drive and copied the file in it, then entered the bios and after selecting the file and loading it, my PC restarted before the processing bar loads, it wouldn't boot and the CPU led was red on the motherboard. After waiting for 15 minutes, I decided to hit the reset button and my pc restarted without any issues but it was still using the old bios. Does anyone know what is wrong? My system specs are the following: TUF GAMING B650-PLUS WIFI AMD 7700X 32gb G.skill 6000MHz ram

Looks like a great keyboard, it's even customizable and cheap but it's missing media controls which are essential for my use-case

Thank you for replying! I have never used a wireless keyboard before so I don't know if the battery life will be any inconvenience at all. It's good to hear that 40 hours is not that bad.

Goodday! I am looking for a wireless tenkeyless mechanical keyboard with backlighting, media controls and long range (2 meters max when using it in the living room) and I need your help picking one. So far, the only keyboards I found that met my requirements are the Logitech g915 and the razer Razer DeathStalker V2 Pro. I watched reviews for both keyboards and read several threads and articles about them but I still can't decide. On the one hand, the logitech has twice the battery of the razer and can still maintain its wireless capabilities even when it's charging which would make it the only choice for me but from what I hear the keycaps are the worst and not even close to the quality standards you should expect from a 200€ keyboard. There are cases of keycaps breaking or even the letters fading out over time cause of the awful paint they used. Worst part is that it's extremely difficult to find replacement keycaps... Is the razer a better choice in my case even though the battery is smaller and it cannot be used wireless when it's charging? I am also open to suggestions so if you have something else to recommend I would be happy to hear it! Thank you in advanced, Kostas

That's good to hear!! To tell you the truth I like the BSW 4 design more that noctua, especially the pro version but I m not gonna pay the pro premium for fans. If I go with the SWs I ll get the standard version.

Yes, around 1000RPM... It's such a shame cause other than that they are excellent fans...

That's very reassuring, I was really worried about it! Thank you very much for this info!

That's very good to hear! I was 100% sure that the g.skill ram was amd expo compatible since it was clear on their website. The kingston one that only has a XMP profile runs at 6000MHz and Cas 32 which is safe to assume that it will be almost as fast as the g.skill. If I understood correctly, what you are saying is that once I install it, it will definitely work but I will have to check in the bios to see if the motherboard read the XMP profile correctly and the timings are the same as advertised and if it's not I just have to manually set them. Is that right?

It would be pointless to check compatibility based on physical size alone wouldn't it? I mean If a board supports DDR5 then no matter how tall a ddr5 module is it will fit. The only problem a tall ram can cause is to obstruct the CPU cooler. When you say manually overclock it, do you mean that if the XMP profile is not supported the ram will run at stock speeds and I ll have to set the values manually to make it work as fast as it is advertised?