LeandroMLopes

I have an RX5700, Ryzen 3600 and on some games, but specially on Battlefield V, Free-Sync works really bad! I get framerates between 120 and 165 fps and my monitor is a 1440p 165 Hz Free-Sync Premium Lenovo G27q-20. Whenever I enable free-sync, the monitor's refresh rate jumps from whatever the framerate is to its half, very fast, which makes the game very laggy and unresposive. If I disable free-sync the game behaves normally but with screen-tearing, of course... Has anyone experienced this before?

I'm close to buying this 2nd hand RTX 2080 but just noticed that one of the tracks of the PCI connector is a little damaged in one of the listing's photo. Could this be a serious issue? I asked the owner for a video showing the GPU working. If in the video it works fine, do I assume that the missing bit is no problem or could it still be? Thanks!

I just saw both Short Circuit and Jayztwocents videos on the RTX 3080 and they both talk about the embargo to release performance reviews but none said any dates. Does anyone know when the embargo will be lifted and we'll get some juicy benchmarks?

I thought of that possibility! No, I never replaced the thermal pads and they contact with the memory chips for the GPU, the VRMs and mobo chipset. Could that be my problem then?

I've had a Lenovo gaming laptop for about 3 years and the last few months it started overheating and I can't fix it. Before, eveytime this happened, I opened it up, cleaned up the fans that had built up dust, put fresh thermal paste and it was good to go again, but now, nothing works! I've cleaned the fans, repasted, used a newer paste, a Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for a 3rd try, different spread methods, quantities, etc, and to no avail. The fans work flawlessly, I have a 10% undervolt on the CPU (i7 7700HQ) and the GPU is a GTX 1060 Max-Q that NEVER went above 70ºC and now it can reach 85ºC with no problem. I've only been able to play games that allow me to have the laptop with the bottom-side up in order for it to breathe as unobstructed as possible and still it shuts down if I don't let the CPU downclock when it throttles... I have a friend that is a pc technician and he told me that it was one of 3 things: either the battery, that has been acting up is causing the issue, which I removed but hadn't had time to properly test, or the heatsink is defective or the chips, CPU, GPU or both are dying and can no longer dissipate the heat properly. Is there any way I can diagnose which of those problems exactly is causing the issue? I have access to an IR thermometer, if that helps. I don't want to be buying a new heatsink or battery to then realize the problem is on the chips... Thanks in advance!

It can't be just that because I never had this problem before and I've had this laptop for 3 years. The undervolting always worked great and was more than enough to keep the CPU below 85 ºC and the GPU, which is a Max-Q never went above 70 ºC and this shutdowns NEVER happened before. That's why I'm worried it might be the "glued" thermal pads that contact the VRMs and memory modules that became inefficient but I have no easy way of knowing because those don't have temperature sensors and I don't know how to identify overheating of those components. Would the IF thermometer help in this?

For the past 2 months my laptop (Lenovo Y520) has been turning off abruptly due to overheating and I can't seem to find what the problem is! I've already repasted multiple times, using many methods, quantities and even different pastes. I bought a new Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, applied it using the little spreader thing, with more than enough quantity, cleaned all the dust from the fans completely, use the boost mode for the fans and clearing the bottom of the laptop for air circulation, still this happens! I am also undervolting the CPU to the max I can and it's a stable undervolting that I've been running for years now. I'm starting to think that the problem might be VRMs or memory modules overheating because the heatsink has "incorporated" thermal pads that cover those components and I've taken the heatsink off multiple times and never replaced those thermal pads that are somewhat dirty. Could this be it? Also, my NVME SSD goes up to 115ºC while browsing a menu in a game and the task manager shows the SSD apparently idling at that temperature... I have a friend that has an IR thermometer. Could I use it to see exactly what is overheating? Thanks in advance!

The screws are held in place, so even if they're loose all the way, they can´t drop out of the heatsink.

Hi, everyone! I have been having overheating on my laptop. It's a Lenovo with a i7 7700HQ and a GTX 1060-MaxQ and the heatsink is crap. It's a 2-pipe single heatsink shared by both the CPU and GPU. Lately I've been hitting close to 90ºC on the CPU and close to 80ºC on the GPU (which I never saw above 72ºC) so I decided to repaste it and clean all the dust. I used an old MX-4 I had for like 7-8 years and the thermals were even worse after! I figured the paste had gone bad and so I bought a Kryonaut tube and applied it and the thermals did not change! I was hitting 93ºC in the CPU and high 80ºC on the GPU. I opened it up again and this was what I saw (this is the CPU but the GPU looked the same. Usually you see a lot more paste when you open it up. Does this mean I used too little thermal paste? I used the pea method. Also, then I figured that MAYBE the screws on the heatsink are not meant to be tightened to the max and googled it and I guess that's right. Tightening it to the max can squeeze the thermal paste away from the contact zone so it should be tightened like 60%. I tested how many turns the screws had and it was 5 turns. I turned them 3 times each and that time I used the spread method like this. After testing, the max the CPU got was 87ºC and GPU was 74ºC, so either the spread method, the looser screws or both helped! Any ideas about this? Best regards!

Hey guys! Very simple question: which way should I go? Buy a bigger, 65 inch Samsung Q67R or a smaller and better 55 inch Q70R? The 55"Q70 is 970€ and the 65"Q67 is 1300€. I think that given the price difference, the Q70 is better, right? What if I find them at the same price a little down the road, say, Black Friday? Thanks!

Hi, everyone! I recently bought a Samsung NU8005 4k, HDR TVs and I can't seem to activate HDR through windows! I can get 4k @60 Hz but when I go to the TV settings and activate the HDMI UHD Color, which is necessary to activate HDR on windows afterwards, it just goes black and doesn't work! The HDMI cable is HDMI 2.0, or else I wouldn't get 4k @60 Hz, right? Or could I really be having a problem with the HDMI cable? Anyone can help? I'm going crazy with this

The guy is willing to lower the price to 80€, so it's a good deal. The cheapest I find here is 107€

Yeah, very, very confusing! But, @syn2112, it's not always true. There are some M.2 2280 PCI SSDs that use AHCI, which if that's the case, it won't work on my laptop...

@PopsicleHustler, But NVMe are also M.2 xD But there are different keys, and that defines the notches. The thing is that I can't find anywhere on the skhynix site or anywhere else the word "NVMe" and I'm afraid it doesn't work on my laptop

@Minibois, Hmm, I see... I think so too. By the speeds, the form factor, everything it seems to be an NVMe. My fear is that there's a fundamental difference between PCI e and NVMe and that it isn't compatible with my motherboard. I know that, for instance a M.2 2280 SATA SSD doesn't work here and I'm afraid that if it isn't specifically NVMe, it doesn't work either ?

Hello, everyone! I'm looking at this SSD to buy from a guy but I am unsure if it is NVMe, and my laptop only supports NVMe ones. It is an M.2 2280 form factor, which is what I want. By the speeds it can't be SATA interface, but I'm confused as to whether PCI e gen 3x4 is NVMe or if those two are two different things! Looking up the part number online, I can't find anywhere saying "NVMe", so I'm afraid it isn't... aren't the only 2 protocols SATA and NVMe? Isn't PCIe gen 3x4 just another "synonym" with NVMe? Thank you so much I advance! I'm really confused now

@WoodenMarker, @Tibon, @Jurrunio My GPU is the GTX 1060 Max-Q which runs REALLY cool, even pushing it to the limit and overclocking. The max temperature I've seen it reach was around 70ºC on a really hot day, but usually it sits around 60ºC. BUT, I did download the superposition GPU benchmark (the newest from UNIGINE) and ran it in parallel with Prime95 and the CPU temperature did rise 6-7ºC while the GPU benchmark was running. So you guys were right! But still, why does Intel XTU, Cinebench and Prime95 give me different temperatures while all of them put the CPU at 100%? I guess maybe there's a lot more to the CPU load than the usage percentage? PS. And yes, the heatsink is common to the GPU and CPU. Although it has 2 pipes and 2 powerful fans, I guess that contributes a lot to the thermals.

So I put a graphite pad on my laptop's CPU and, oh boy, did it lower the temps comparing to the thermal paste I had (arctic silver)! But I started noticing something weird... Doing a stress test on Intel XTU the max temp I got was 67ºC, on Cinebench, the max was 74ºC but playing Battlefield V, it reaches 85ºC... How come the temperatures vary so much between what should be somewhat equally demanding tests? The CPU is an i7 7700HQ, btw.

DFS was set to auto. I set the channel to 44 now, randomly picked between 36 and 48 as you said. I'll see if it solves it! Thanks, guys!

@79wjd Give it long enough? How long? I mean some very loooong years, right? After that time I'd either not mind that much loosing my phone or already have a new one. Since when does "hunting down" means physically confronting the guy? Of course that's not what I meant! By hunting them down I mean know their whereabouts and get the police! Of course the police care, are you crazy? I don't know where you're from, but here in Portugal, the police sure care and will help! An elevator? Seriously? So you're telling me that a mugger would either happen to be near an elevator straight away and stay in there for hours until the battery drains or go running to find one? Think realistically! Someone mugs you, takes your phone and then needs to go either home or somewhere else where he can, hypothetically, hide it inside a metal case/fridge/basement, wtv, before trying to reset it and sell it. Before he has the time to reach home, I have time to borrow a phone or PC, go to Samsung's site, find the location, meanwhile I've called the cops and they're on they're way, (and trust me, here in Portugal, they would help!) and try to get to the guy before he can actually drain it or hide it, that's the whole point! No, I don't need to get my priorities straight, I do have them right, I just worry about different things than you, that's it. If you can't help, why bother commenting and saying that this is incredibly stupid? If you think this is stupid, then don't waste your time nor mine! What the hell...

@dizmo Well, of course I'd want to hunt them down if someone mugs me! And how would you prevent being mugged? Please, master, tell society how to end that torment. Dude, of course there's common sense and I shouldn't go to dangerous places or walk alone at night, I know all of that and I've never been mugged in my life, so I think I know how to behave relatively safely, but that doesn't mean there won't be a time I actually do get mugged and I just want to have enabled all the measures I can enable to make it more likely that I get my phone back, that's it. PS. thanks for the heads-up about tagging people

Well, mine doesn't! What the hell? I have to dig up the settings to enable that! Thanks for letting me know there's hope ahah

@79wjd First, honestly, when was the last time your phone froze and you could do nothing about it? Relatively recent phones don't freeze more than a few seconds... I had a Galaxy S4 before and even that one didn't freeze. Although there are other ways, those are not so easy as simply turning it off. If you're implying that a robber can just go to the subway or put it in a metal case forever, that's stupid. They'd have to come back "up" sometime or get it out of the case sooner or later and I'm not seeing them doing it long enough to drain the battery unless we're talking about a really smart and cautious robber, which is not common, I would say And what the hell? Knowing where it is wouldn't help?? Assuming you saw what the robber looked like, knowing where it was with a error of a few meters would be a huge help to finding the robber!

Hi, everyone! I got a Galaxy S9 very recently and as everyone else, I'm really scared I might get robbed and loose my new very expensive phone, so I dug up all I could find about security features that I could use to either prevent it or get it back if I end up being that unlucky. First, and very cool, on the Samsung website you have the "Find my Mobile" option which will automatically turn on the GPS so it can report back the location, which is something Google's similar service does not do, which means it's basically worthless, since I never have the GPS on unless I'm actually using it, in order to save battery! Second, I noticed that you cannot turn off WiFi nor Mobile Data off if the phone is locked! You can turn it on, but not off, so, if a robber tries to turn off cell data, he can't unless he knows your lock code/pin/pattern/wtv. Since I always want to be connected to the internet to get facebook, instagram, e-mails, etc, notifications, if I leave home, I always turn on data, so, I'm always able to go to Samsung's website and use the "Find My Mobile" thing. The problem is, and it's a HUGE problem, you can turn off the phone even if it's locked!! What the hell?! All those security features and you can just turn it off?? What's the point of not allowing you to turn off data to keep the service usable if you can just hold the power button and turn it off?? This is a HUGE security issue that we shouldn't be having in 2018. When batteries were removable, well, they could just take it off, but now that they're not, they should make it impossible for a robber to turn off the phone without unlocking it. Am I missing some setting in which I can just disable the option of turning it off or what? If not, then, all is for nothing, because if a robber has half a brain cell, he'll just turn it off right away and it's gone forever. Is there a way of disabling that? Does it require root? Thanks a lot in advance!

I got a new Huawei HS8247W router from my service provider, it has WiFi A/C, 5 GHz, and all the bells and whistles. So, I have a gaming laptop and a Galaxy S9 with WiFi A/C, so, to take advantage of all the speed I have (400 Mbps download) I turned on the 5 GHz network, which was off by default, for some stupid reason. The thing is, I've had this router for a couple of days and the 5 GHz network turns off randomly sometimes, while the 2.4 GHz is always on, as usual... It turns off for like 10 seconds and then comes back on. I've seen it turn off 3 or 4 times these 2 days I've had it.I did go to the router settings to make some tweaks and set the channel bandwidth to 160 MHz, the highest setting, but everything was fine on both my laptop and cell phone. Could this be the reason for it to turn off sometimes? Any help? Thanks a lot in advance!