Special Agent 星雨

Final update: Tested PCI-e cables without the extensions, all OK. Re-assembled motherboard back into PC-O11 XL case, all OK. I'm not sure what went wrong, but the issue seems to have fixed itself.

Update: CPU power extension cable in use again, no issues. Only GPU is using stock PSU cables now.

In an interesting twist, things seems to be working now, after the following changes: - removed Cablemod PSU extensions for CPU, GPU (motherboard still using it) - removed motherboard from the case, resting on the motherboard packaging box - disconnected all other drives except the 2 x M.2 on the motherboard - re-installed W10 via USB Uniginw Heaven benchmark running for 30+ minutes and counting...

I will pull out the motherboard and test it while it is not installed in the case. And yes, I have done a fresh Windows install with a USB as well. I am starting to suspect the motherboard or PSU too, but fingers crossed it is them because I am literally out of ideas...

I have used DDU in safe mode in between graphics card changes and driver version changes. No effect on my issue. This is so bizarre...

EDIT* Just to be clear, the PC is perfectly fine when web browsing, doing assignment/coding, even playing light games like Among Us, League of Legends or basically anything that doesn't make the GPU usage hit 100%. But as soon as anything demanding is loaded up, it BSODs instantly. I've also tried applying a -200Mhz to the core and memory of the 2080Ti and RX 580, still the same thing. EDIT 2* Also something else that's weird, each time it BSODs, it seems like... my Windows settings get reset? I turned UAC off because it asks for permission each time I open MSI afterburner, but after each BSOD UAC is back to the default, recommended level. EDIT 3* Yup, it literally ONLY crashes if GPU usage hits 100%. If I cap FPS to 30 in PUBG, GPU usage hovers around ~20% and there are no crashes. As soon as I remove FPS limiter, GPU usage hits 100% and the PC freezes within seconds. At least I can still do my assignments, and literally everything else other than play games...

Hi everyone, first of all, specs: Specs: R7 3700X STOCK LianLi Galahad 360mm AIO Asus X570-E motherboard KFA2 RTX 2080Ti SG on latest and 2nd/3rd latest drivers Asus RX 580 8GB Dual on latest Radeon drivers EVGA 850W P2 PSU Samsung 970 Pro 512GB NVMe as OS drive. I'd just to start off by saying that I understand the WHEA BSOD is usually because the CPU tells Windows that it has detected a hardware fault, so the issue is usually to do with CPU instability, or temps etc. But hear me out. This ONLY happens when I run a GPU benchmark, or any games that makes GPU hit 100% usage. Things I have tried: CPU: Reset BIOS to default, even took the CMOS battery out for 5 min. CPU temps OK (peaks at 40-50C whenever the BSOD occurs) Aida64 CPU/FPU/Cache OVERNIGHT with NO issues. Cinebench R15/R20 no issues P95 small FFT no issues Storage: Reinstalled Windows using built in reset feature. Reinstalled using USB stick. GPU: Happens on both a RTX 2080Ti and RX 580 8GB. Although, if I load up a benchmark, the 2080 Ti will run from anywhere between 1 to 50 seconds before BSOS occurs. RX 580 8GB crashes the PC instantly, as in within 1-3 seconds of loading up Unigine Heaven. I've also tried different PCI-e power cables. Motherboard: Tried both PCI-e x16 slots, with both GPUs, same result. RAM: I have tried it at stock and DOCP (3000Mhz C15->C16) settings, ran (at 2133Mhz) Aida64 memory stress test, ran Memtest64, completed OVERNIGHT with no issues at all. Currently running at 2133Mhz and the BSODs still happen. I am confident both my GPUs are fine... because the the RX 580 8GB works perfectly in our home media system (can't fit the 2080Ti in there to test), but why do GPU benchmarks/games cause the BSOD then...? Also, WhoCrashed was unable to find crash logs because the BSOD appears for about 2s before the PC instantly restarts. I was only able to know that the error code was WHEA UNCORRECTABLE ERROR due to using slo mo on my phone to record it. Any insight/input/help will be much appreciated, I am out of ideas...

Hi, I'm looking to change from my 8700K to the new R7 3700X (for lower temperatures, plus my 8700K doesn't OC that well), which means no more iGPU, which is what I used to stream with. I have a 1080Ti that I stream off but if I'm playing in borderless mode I can feel an occasional stutter here and there. Would say, adding a GTX 1050 or even GT 1030 (preferably does not require PCI-e connectors) help? Would this even work since my monitors will be plugged into my 1080Ti? Hard to find any information on this as most people just deal with streaming off CPU, iGPU or dGPU. I am more interested in a smoother gameplay rather than higher quality stream, as it's mostly for friends to watch. Much appreciated.

Maybe in the future when we get access to better internet here. Here in Australia we pay $80 AUD/month (~$55 USD/month) for 50 mbps download and 20 mbps upload. At these speeds even my powerline adapter can provide full download speeds. Deca adapters sound great but probably won't be utilized fully, not here at least.

I could but then it would need to be run through two living rooms and a kitchen, which I already know will not be supported by the rest of the family. I have resorted to using Wi-Fi to stream, and use my powerline adapter for the rest. It has been working well so far.

I only have one pair of sockets in my room. Things I have tried: another room in the house where the adapter was plugged straight into the wall (same effect, stops working once high upload bandwidth is being used) using the adapters in a newly built (<2 years) apartment, no issues. I think its safe to conclude that the electrical wiring in my house is the culprit, which is quite a shame. Guess I'll have to use Wi-Fi when I need to stream.

' At the modem's end, it is plugged directly into the wall socket. Unfortunately, in my room I cannot do that, as it will also occupy the other, only free socket, meaning I'll be left with no access to electricity. So I guess this + old electrical wiring are the two potential causes for my situation.

I am not sure, but based on the style/building material it looks to be 20-30 years old. My guess is also that the old electric cables in my house are at fault. Hopefully I can confirm this by taking my adapter to a newer house and using it there.

TDLR at bottom. I'm not sure how to describe this, other than saying it's quite bizarre. I recently bought a D-Link DHP-701AV PowerLine Ethernet Adapter, and it's been working great. I use this because I recently moved to a different room in the house, and despite getting 3/5 bars of Wi-Fi, the speeds are slow and ping spikes occur every 10 minutes, making gaming impossible. With this adapter I can now achieve ~40 mbps down and ~20mbps up on my 50/20 connection (Australia, shit tier internet). However, here is where it gets interesting. Whenever I stream content to Twitch, Youtube and even Discord screen sharing, my PowerLine adapter will shit itself. The PowerLine icon on the adapter will begin blinking red a few minutes after I start streaming, and I will lose all connection until I power down one of the two adapters and power it up again (effectively re-establishing the connection?). This happens at all times of the day, no matter if its 4am or 12pm or right now, 3PM. This happens on my desktop and laptop. If I'm downloading at full speed there are no problems at all, so what causes this behaviour when streaming/using high upload bandwidth? My only guess is that the electrical stuff in this house is too old? Can't think of another reason and Googling this hasn't resulted in anything. TLDR: Powerline adapter shits itself if I'm streaming (or presumably doing anything upload heavy).

I've bought a Razer Blackwidow Elite (Razer "green" switches), and I am also aware that Razer uses non-standard bottom row key sizes, but that isn't the issue here. My left shift, right shift, back space (minor exception), enter, enter (numpad) and plus sign (numpad) all become extremely stiff during the last 25%? Of a press, the first 75% feels perfectly normal, minimal resistance, but the last part feels extremely rugged and hard, I estimate 25% because the key still actuates just as the resistance kicks in. I'm using this keycap set: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-104-Keyset-Backlight-Key-Caps-For-Cherry-MX-Switches-Backlit-87-104-108Mechanical/32652958572.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.79584c4drU43Gs My understanding is that if the inside of the keycap is too thick, it might cause issues with the plastic stabilizer insert? This is what it feels like so I may have answered my own question, but there's an exception - Backspace key. After changing this key's keycap, there is minimal increase in resistance, nowhere near the level of increase the other stabilizer keys experienced. I really wanted to replace the left shift key because I know it will become worn down and "shiny" after a while because I mainly play FPS and we all know how important the shift key is. What gives?

Edit - Cooler Master? I'm high as a kite, I meant Be Quiet. Thought I'd just post an update - Cooler Master Be Quiet did confirm via e-mail that you do indeed need a decoupler (this rubber thing that sits between the fan and the heatsink, the front 120mm has one by default, but there are no extras included in the box) to allow a silent wings fan to be able to work in the rear orientation, odd, considering they include metal brackets but not this decoupler? With that said, a free one is being sent out so I cannot really complain, but if others encounter the same issue just have a chat with Be Quiet customer support!

I have tried remounting the fan in a number of positions, closer to the motherboard, farther from the motherboard, all yield the same result. I have seen posts of people asking whether a third fan will help cool better, but have yet to see people encountering issues mounting said third fan on the rear side. It's definitely designed for a third fan though, in the manual it even says something like "If you wish to use a third fan on the cooler, a pair of metal brackets are provided for you.", and there's a picture of a third fan being installed, but their own Silent Wings 3 fan will not fit? I am beyond confused.

Not sure if this helps at all, but there are differences in shape between the front and rear side of the heatsink, which is what I have concluded as causing the problem.

Looking for people who use the Be Quiet! DRP4 because it seems like I'm the only person experiencing this. The cooler comes includes two Be Quiet! fans, very good performance and extremely quiet. One 135mm fan and a 120mm fan. The "default" configuration is, the 135mm fan sits between the two heatsink towers whilst the 120mm fan sits as intake on the right side of the heatsink. I'm trying to move this 120mm fan to the other side of the heatsink, but some parts if not all of the fan blades of this 120mm fan seem to be making contact with the heatsink, causing a deafening plastic to metal sound that nearly gave me a heart attack when I first heard it. One thing to note is that on the right hand side of the heatsink, there are these two rubber strips that sit between the fan and the heatsink, but if I remove those as well, and move it to the other side to be used with the 120mm fan in it's new position, the blades will instead be making contact with these rubber strips instead, solving one issue and creating another. Faulty fan? The fan itself performs perfectly fine whilst in the "default" configuration location. If I need to provide more information please comment, thanks.

I was monitoring the tempratures during gameplay, and although higher temperatures could of course lead to instabilty, my temperatures were actually lower since I changed radiator placements for both the GPU and CPU to exhaust fan locations (previously it was intake and exhaust respectively). But it makes sense to revert everything possible change I've made that could cause instability. I will remove the overclocks when I can and test it out, thanks.

I will try that, thanks.

I've had my CPU running at 5.0 Ghz @ 1.33v in Cinebench, Aida64 and Prime 95 AVX/no AVX all overnight, at least 8 hours (not concurrently of course) and have found no issues, stress tests were repeated when I assembled this late last year. I do not believe a case change would result i my previously stable OCs to become not stable.

EDIT 1 - Finished running chkdsk /f /r (C:) but realised when I finshed that C drive was actually one of the HDDs... which got me thinking that perhaps my main drive, the 970 Pro 512GB SSD is somehow not being detected hence the Windows issues? EDIT 2 - Ran chkdsk through all the other drive letters (D, E, F, G) and none of them were my 970 Pros. EDIT 3 - Attempted to reset without losing personal files, immediately resulted in error. Attempted a complete reset, same result. EDIT 4 - Checked BIOS and my Kingston SUV400 SSD had a higher priority boot order over my 970 Pro, fixed that. EDIT 5 - Currently broken out of the automatic repair loop, have successfully logged into Windows 10. Hi all, Recently (16 hrs ago) I changed my PC case from a Thermaltake View 71 to a Fractal Design Define R6. After re-assembling the crucial components I did a test boot and everything was good, so I continued to assemble the rest of the parts. However, upon loading PUBG after everything was done and dusted, I quickly noticed things started to freeze one after another when I tabbed out to look for an e-mail. First it was chrome, it became unresponsive and had that white tint over it as if that "Chrome.exe has stopp working" window would popup, but it never did. Then discord, then the file explorer and eventually the task bar, mail app and the game. Now I have the game installed on a separate drive from Chrome, but not all steam games are, so maybe there's a connection there? And I realised soon enough after many force restarts that this will happen a few minutes after booting up/logging in, no matter what I do. Is this just a pure coincidence that one of my hard drives is dying? Or have I overlooked something in re-assembly process? I currently have command promot running a chkdsk /r on all the drives (have only done 970 Pro and am doing I think the 2TB WD Blue right now), because upon going through 'Automatic Repair' multiple times at boot, Windows keeps saying something like 'Automatic repair has failed' and links me to some text log file which I can't even access since the computer doesn't boot. Specs: i7 8700K @ 5Ghz stable. GTX 1080Ti with NZXT X42/G12 @ 2Ghz stable 32GB Trisent Z RGB @ 3000Mhz C15 Asus Z370-E motherboard 1 x 970 Pro 512GB NVMe SSD 1 x 2TB WD Blue (bought early 2018) 1x 1TB WD Green (extracted from a HDD enclosure, probably like 7-10 years old) 1 x Kingston SUV400? 240GB SSD 1 x Crucial MX300 750GB SSD EVGA 850 P2 PSU A shit ton of Asus Aura Sync RGB fans 2 fan controllers inside the case, including the one that comes with the case. CPU, GPU, motherboard power cable extensions from CableMod. Fractal Design Define R6 Blackout w/ USB-c Any further information needed PLEASE ask

I will re-test the stability of my CPU OC and RAM XMP profile, my RAM is rated at 3000Mhz C15 so I'd be pretty stumped if it can't actually run at 3000Mhz. I have made sure I have installed all available drivers from Asus' website. I have downclocked my CPU to 4.9Ghz @ 1.344v and it hasn't BSODed/crashed in 2 hours now, fingers crossed.

I was thinking the same, what if my OC wasn't actually stable, even though I tested it for 12 hours straight under Prime 95 no AVX. I have it running at 4.9Ghz @ 1.344v now and we'll see how it goes.